Hey, I was hoping to take the seals out and not completely disassemble the forks but as I couldn't figure that out I ended up pulling the forks completely apart and this video was so helpful so thanks
Thanks for the video. My daily driver is a 2005 FZ1 with 70,000 and I'm just about out of adjustments on the front and rear suspension. Gonna rebuild the forks this winter and replace the rear suspension unit with a stock part. This bike has been too good to me and deserves the love.
@@yllib68 Fork rebuild successful! Wasn't as hard as I thought and now I know the internal workings. I used a combination of your 2 videos and the Haynes manual. Thanks again man, 5 yrs later and you're still helping people. Peace ✌
Hey Billy. Great video. Will be bookmarking this and creating a list of basic DIY stuff to do on my FZ1N :). Thanks for taking the time to make a video man.
Your welcome Bud. I'm glad it has helped you. Wasn't so bad, right? Next time it will be even easier. Just think of how much money you save and the satisfaction of knowing you did it on your own. Totally worth it!
Everything went together great - I used a modified 1-1/4" PVC coupling to drive in the seals. The bushings for the sliders were a really TIGHT fit; I ended up using the seal driver over the large metal washer to drive those too. Thanks again for putting this together.
Hey Pitt, I know that with the GenII having inverted forks, the internals are a little different (Cartridge). As for seals and bushings I'd say they would be pretty similar. I'll have to ask my buddy I ride with. He has a GenII and does the forks himself.
Billy Ramirez hey billy I tried flame torch that didn’t really worked. This FZ1 I bought came with service manual it says you 26mm cartridge holder and it has to be long enough thought a lot then got an idea in plumbing section they have tub fastener it comes with set of 5 21 to 36 they do sell singles unfortunately they didn’t had 26mm I used R1 damper holder and insert a pin Inbetween so that it locks I can weld it on the other side of R1 damper holder but I just used pin instead and it worked, and yes it was tread lock that was blocking Allen bolt. Thanks
I had new springs installed on my FZ1 and my comp and rebound dials click way more than before. Did the guy miss a measurement on something? I feel like my rebound doesn’t even work it has 40 clicks and just spins to a stop when all the way in. Ty for the help!! If u can!😊
Well, if the springs are the same length as the OEM springs, which they should be, then the clickers should work exactly the same as before. I installed HyperTech progressive springs in my 09' and everything was the same length as the OEM springs. Rebound and compression are the same as before. There is a spacer in the GenII forks but I don't think there was one on my Gen I.
Good video but I'm curious, you haven't had to change 3 sets on the same bike have you? I have about 60,000 miles and I'm doing one for the first time.
Chris Fehr Not sure what you mean Chris. I had changed these once but only because I only had the bike for a couple of years. Just make sure you spray some penetrating oil in the bottom of the fork tube the day before you do it.
Because a lot of oil is retained inside the cartridge, it's really hard to release all the oil out with the forks on the bike. I know it's a bit of work but in the end you'll have it done correctly.
Have you removed the fork cap yet? If so, try putting it back on and then loosen the hex bolt. The bottom of the cartridge may be turning around with the hex bolt. Let me know what happens.
I know this thread is old but it's helping me do my FZ1 forks.The answer for Jacob is you need a 26mm socket taped to a piece of 1" PVC to put down your fork tube to hold the cartridge to undo the drain bolt on the bottom of your fork.I was having myself a little heart attack thinking my fork was screwed up because of the spinning drain bolt until I did more research and found this solution. Hope this helps out others that have the same problem. Thanks Billy for the great video !!!
MIKE IN FL. Thanks Mike. I understand now what you guys are talking about. I actually cracked loose the drain bolt while the forks were still on the bike. Cracked them loose and then snugged them down where they weren't leaking. After that it wasn't necessary to hold the cartridge still. Thanks guys. I can't believe that this video is still getting attention. I'm happy that I'm able to help someone do it themselves and save some dough!
Fixing to use your tutorial Thanks for the effort to help your fellow bikers. I do alot of wheelies so doing my own seals are gonna save me down the road. Saves money for Rear tires. Check out my channel. Thanks again.
Please help. I'm having the same problem as the other guy with the bolt spinning on the bottom. I put the cap back on nice and tight and sat there for 5 min trying to get that bolt out but nothing. And the shaft down the middle is no longer spinning.
Hello Duane. The best I can tell you is to use a propane torch and heat the circumference of the bolt and allow the metal to expand around the bolt. Then when it's good and hot, try and remove again. Let me know how it goes. I've used the torch on my friend's fork a few years ago and it did the trick.
@@duanespeck2316 just remember to heat the surrounding area around the head of the bolt and try to stay off the bolt itself. With a propane torch you can usually get accurate placement.
@@duanespeck2316 yes, as much as you can stay away from the bolt head. Just heat the circumference around the bolt head. I put the tip of the torch in through the axle hole for a couple of minutes from each side and it broke the bolt free. Remember not to touch the bottom of the fork leg with your hands!!! That would hurt! Hahahaha!
I've always broken that bolt while the fork is still assembled. Once the fork is open from the top I believe the internals spin along with that bolt. When everything is together it's easier to break it free.
Is the fork off the bike already? Did you remove the top cap yet? If you did, reinstall it and then remove the bolt. The internal cartridge is probably turning with the bolt.
Billy Ramirez hey billy yes it's off the bike and yes bolt is spinning with cartridge I'm thinking its factory fitting it might need some torch flame to loosen. What you say. Thanks again
@@agamurtuza8963 okay, so the fork is fully assembled? You only removed the fork from the triple tree and nothing else? The cap on top of the fork is on and is tight? Cause you said that the bolt was turning but not coming out. It really should not turn by itself and not loosen out. Are you sure the bolt head isn't stripped out and the Allen wrench is what is spinning?
Billy Ramirez hey billy bolt is absolutely fine I can feel the cartridge is turning from inside it's fully locked cap is locked it has all the spring pressure, only thing I think of is thread lock that's restraining it to fully come off the cartridge. I'm working on my 08 R1 as well it has the same issue so I had to buy a tool that locks cartridge then you can either lock or unlock. So I was thinking of showing some flame to it what do you have to say your idea is always welcome. Many thanks
@@agamurtuza8963 I would try a heat gun if you have one before hitting it with a torch. Once the thread locker melts it should come out. I hope. Let me know.
