Say half click, i pick up my FZ6r Saturday; 2011 with 5000 original miles from the original purchaser. The title listed miles as , you'll luv this 0001 miles. Sending you smiles from Seattle and a super thanks from Steve and the Ding Ding (my cat).
Hey dude!, thank you so much for making this video and uploading it!, i just got my fz6r 2009 with only 160 miles! lol so iv'e been learning a lot about it on your YT channel, the description of what you're doing is so profesional and the background audio is cool! A++ for you my dude! kudos!
160 miles?!?! If you tell me it’s blue I’m gonna cry. What a find! Congrats on finding a diamond, and also thank you for watching my stuff. I have like 100 tutorials on the Fizzer.. they should prove helpful for you. Welcome to the Fizzer Fam! 😎🤙
No need to loosen the axle nut so much. All the adjusters need is an axle that will move with some resistance. That keeps the adjusters firmly against their anchors. To final check the chain slack put the bike on the ground, sit on the bike and check the slack then. (That is the position that the chain will be used the most) Roll the bike to double check for tight spots. Then torque your axle nut. Even belt drives should be done this way. 57 years experience and a quarter million miles. 🙂
I honestly find it easier to just put pressure on the back of the wheel while I'm working on each side as long as you're holding pressure from the rear enough You're adjustment can get set properly You can look at my comment that I made on his video it might be the last one that was made but still you can read through it I had to deal with all that and I s*** you not the last 3 days I've ran at 140 mph through a very winey highway and it has not loosened or moved at all The reason I believe it works a little bit easier it's just it gives you that much easier movement of the tire when you're trying to do your adjustments makes everything a lot easier to move around but whichever way you want to try to skin the cat as long as it gets done 🤣
Sorry, but it isn't easier to have to push the wheel ahead for every adjustment but only needs to be done that way for the initial adjustment. After that, when you need to get rid of excess chain slack, you only loosen the axle nut a little but leave it fairly snug so you only need to tighten each adjuster the same amount on each side and that automatically maintains the tracking of the wheel and alignment of the chain with sprocket. Any time I have to remove the wheel I turn the adjusters loose the same number of turns and lock them with a second nut in that position and that also preserves alignment without all the string lining etc. Pushing the wheel ahead by hand is not quite as accurate as keeping tension on the slack adjusters with an axle that creates resistance by not loosening it completely. My method can be used even with the wheel still on the ground. Which is needed anyway because you need to look for tight spots by sitting on the bike and rolling it with your weight on it.
I've only recently begun really working on motorcycles, but as I was watching, it occurred to me that you might be able to put a mark on the bolt, and the adjustment thingy. If you draw a line straight down from the tick in the top to the bolt, then a line down the threads to the front of it, it would help figure out exactly where its positioned when you adjust the screw. If that makes sense? Just a random idea that popped into my head. I realize running a nut over the bolt threads might take off the mark, but that's why you'd have one at the end as well. Can always redraw it for future adjustments, and some of it should stay on there to a degree if you use some sort of permanent marker or something similar. Would be very interested to know if you think this idea works. I'll likely be adjusting the tension of the chain on my Vulcan before I sell it.
Firefly sounds perfectly plausible to me dude! I think it would be a lot more time-conscious to just buy one of those Motion Pro alignment tools, though 😉
I read online that some people recommend a chain replacement every 2k-3k but that seems really soon and tbh kinda expensive. Do you think it's necessary to go that early? Or should I split the difference and change it every 5k-6k?
The Roadsmart III is an outstanding tire for the Fizzer. I was so impressed, in fact, that I ran a second set when the first wore out. I got around 13,000 miles out of em. I’ve since switched to the new Q3+ and love them even more. They’re stickier than the Roadsmart III but also have the same wear technology, so they should be the best of both worlds. I have just under 5,000 miles on the Q3+ with no visible signs of wear yet.
i like to use a tape measure and measure from the center of axle up to the center of the swing arm pivot on both sides just to be a little more precise. otherwise great instructional video. and btw your 'half turns' on your adjustment nuts were only quarter turns. lol
is there a reason you tightened down the chain-side set nut before going back to the other side to make it evenly mirrored & in front of 3rd tick mark? is it ok to ensure both sides are even before tightening the set nut for either of them?
It’s not absolutely necessary to do it the way I did in this particular video. As long as your settings are mirrored closely on both sides before retorquing the axle, you’re good. Sometime it walks around on me, which is why you saw me do it that way here. I locked the chain slack into place so I only had to worry about swinging the other side into mirror position without the chain slack side shifting. Sometimes I don’t have to do that. It depends on her mood 😉
@@HalfClickUp hahaha yeah she can definitely be moody, but that's OEM for all women amirite? 😂 makes perfect sense though -- thank you for always providing immaculate attention to detail! much appreciated, good sir
harobmx100 inspect both sprockets for badly worn or broken teeth. If none are broken, inspect for “shark toothing” or severe rounding of the tooth tips. If you’ve never replaced your sprockets, now’s the time. Pro tip: replace it all at once for optimal performance; both sprockets and the chain.
I have an 09 fz6r as well, awesome bike. Mine is basically stock though. What do you reccomend for my first upgrade? exhaust? I've had the bike for about a yr now, 14k miles. Also is your big fat rear tire just on the stock wheel?
Jordan Brock well it all depends on what you wish most you could change about your bike. You can choose from exhaust (aftermarket kit or custom like mine) with fuel controller, or you could opt for better braking and/or control with either stainless brake lines or clip-on bars. That first mod is really about your own preference and what you want out of the bike before anything else. As for my tire, it’s the factory size: 160/60
Hey man I have an 09' as well! The first modification I did was replacing that ugly fender with an eliminator kit, adding a brakelight with integrated signals, and added some flush front signals. Planning on changing out the stock mirrors and wind screen any day. This is all preference though. I really want the bike to look good and I don't have money for big upgrades like exhaust just yet. If it were me, go for exhaust if you have the money, otherwise I'd recommend prettying that honey up!
@@biggestbog thanks I already put on the fender eliminator, but yeah I want to get rid of those ugly front blinkers, where did you get yours from. I'd like to get rid of the big bunny ear mirrors but at the same time, I can see behind me really well with them, and its nice for lane splitting because I can quickly fold them in.
@@HalfClickUp hey, do you have a video on replacing the spark plugs? I cant find one on your page, and theres not alot of videos out there on the FZ6R. I really like the way you explain things in your videos.
@@HalfClickUp the litttle block that sits before the two bolts or the whole replacement in general or aftermarket adjusters my bike lost just that block and two bolts on 1 side
@@act1984art I’m not entirely sure. I must say, this is the first instance I’ve seen where someone’s axle is installed backwards. Technically speaking, I suppose it’s okay if the 22mm is properly torqued. Personally, I’d rectify that situation first chance I got. I mean, the factory service manual makes no warning mentions either way; however, the pictorials and blow-out diagrams in the manual are specific.
@@HalfClickUp I’m new to working on this 09 fz6r I bought so I’ve always been so scared to remove tires for some reason. I looked it up and I guess there are a lot of Harley riders that reverse them on purpose for easier access because of there exhaust. In this case who knows why the previous owner did that. On your video u say the Manuel says 65lb of torque, I did it a little more just in case. I’m am going to be doing new tires soon so I will make sure they reverse the axle
Im trying to do this as i write this but im messing it up horribly..... i broke the axle nut loose, backed off the set nuts and then started moving the adjustment nut. And i have them both on the same line but the right side shows more threads than the left side. Is that normal? I started the bike on the stand and it didnt look like it was off but this is my first time doing this.. also once i torqued down the axle nut and then went to tighten the set nut and it still somehow made the chain tighter or maybe is it like that cause i didn't know i was supposed to find the tightest spot and adjust from there.... im just really scared, i dont wanna mess this up and have some speed wobble at 100mph
I’ve never come across the uneven thread situation you describe, but I’d just focus on the adjustment marks matching up. You definitely need to set tension based on the chain’s tightest point. When you find your sweet spot, apply forward pressure on the tire so that the entire adjustment assembly is tight and without any rattling bits. By that, I mean that the adjusters should be tight against the back of the swing arm without any looseness. Some guys stick a rag between the chain and sprocket to achieve the same effect. Once you’ve got that pressure preventing movement, tighten your set nuts and then your axle nut. Sometimes it takes me a few times to get it right. Don’t be afraid to loosen everything back up and start the process over. Just take your time, you got this 😎🤙
@@HalfClickUp your talking about those silver things at the end of the swingarm? The one on the left side moves but the right doesn't and when i went to tighten the left one more it just made the chain to tight and its still loose..... should i be adjusting the chain with the bike on the stand with no weight or should i adjust with weight on the bike? Im afraid im gonna mess this up
@@terminatedaccount5276 adjust the chain with the bike on the stand. And yes, the silver adjusters on the back must not have any movement. They should be tight against the swing arm. Start fresh… find your chain’s tight spot and get your alignment marks matched up, apply that pressure I talked about so that she can’t loosen up on ya, and tighten those set nuts back down. Make sure the silver blocks don’t wiggle before you torque the axle nut.
@@b10matt70 I suppose technically you could, but I would imagine there’d be quite a bit of resistance as you turn the adjustment screws since you’d potentially be dealing with the weight of the bike on the drivetrain. Give it a go and report back so others may learn 👍
James Dean Cooper once you remove that axle nut, you only need to remove the two little nuts holding the rear brake caliper in place. Then, simply tap on the axle from the threaded side and pull on it from the other side until it comes out completely. The wheel is now free-hanging. Wiggle it around and it’ll come right out. Mind your chain so it doesn’t hit the dirt, and mind the wheel spacers that will undoubtedly fall out as you remove the wheel. Easy peezy! 😬👌
@@HalfClickUp thank you brother!!! Still haven't hit the road yet just practicing on my small road. Doing all the maintenance and getting to know her intimately!! Thanks for all the vids and help!!
Something nobody else has said already Even though it's 3 years after the video was put up I'm going to tell you all this You absolutely cannot ride with any more slack in your chain than that The reason being after writing for about 120 mi on it with a 2009 FZ6R you will completely f*** your teeth on the rear sprocket I'm only telling you because this literally happened to me less than a week ago and today is like May 29th or something like that of 2023 I just went through hell trying to find a new axle because the damn shop that replaced my tire cross-thread of the nut on it because I had to replace my damn rear sprocket and my chain because both were gone The teeth on my sprocket honestly looked like what you would assume the teeth of a meth head to look like that is the 14 of the 47 that were left do not ride with any more slack in your chains than this people this is something that I'm honestly begging y'all no matter how much it hurts you financially do not ride with more slack interchange than what he has in his that is honestly about the limit of possibly safe riding I wish all of y'all the best yalls journeys
Very sound advice. The chain in this video was absolutely at the end of its life, too. To add insult to injury, a few years before I filmed this tutorial, I had a chain that was so stretched and loose that it actually jumped OFF the rear sprocket. Sometimes lessons are learned the hard way! Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching my stuff!
@@HalfClickUp oh I just thankfully wasn't riding hard at all once I tore it up but I mean I literally had so much slack I could pull the top all the way tight and still move the bottom and inch almost side to side in the center of the two sprockets and yeah I apologize about the messed up speech in my comment I was using voice typing and apparently for some reason it wanted to be a dick head but I mean I have had mine up to 1:35 with the chain like that and with all the teeth missing that I had I was still pushing 100 to 105 stupidly I was doing it showing other vehicles that I was willing to travel faster than they were not getting up to the speed quicker but you know what I mean it was a complete retard move but I was doing so I had all those teeth gone for at least 40 mi it all happened on my way to work which was 20 mi and then another 40 to find a sprocket and chain and then it took me a week to get a new axle cuz of all the BS but the shop I ordered my axle from at first tried to send me a 2011 R6 axle like a total retard but yeah some people really don't understand first off the difficulty of maintaining a motorcycle if you have to do it yourself nor do they understand the specific reason why you need to do it until they find out why which I've been in that situation multiple times hell I've actually lost my clutch cable while riding thankfully I was less than 3 mi for my house and didn't need to make any actual stops besides at the house so I can just kick it back in the neutral just that one time take it easy on whatever bikes you own right now and have fun those are both just as important as the other
ac nigga the majority of FZ6R riders are new to motorcycling. My maintenance vids are designed to be fully instructional tutorials so folks can learn and understand why I’m doing what it is I’m doing. There are hundreds of generic 3 minute motorcycle chain videos out there, but I don’t create generic content. Thanks for watching.
