Excellent video brother. I just had this "posting" conversation with a few interweb wizards. My point was the 6.4 is a incredible engine as built. Dodge pretty much built the engine to maximize all the parts used to their fullest. I 100% agree with your assessment that other than a super charger you will not see much value in hp to $ spent. By the time you change out all the components to see a 650 plus hp you are 20k down. But Dodge knows this, even planned on it and has you covered, HELLCAT. Plus for that 20k you get the trans, rearend and all the other upgrades that come with the package. Personally I absolutely love my "17" SRT 392. 6-Speed. A Barton shifter, good tune, proper tires and a couple goodies here and there and she is a blast to drive. Of course a HELLCAT is definitely on the wish list but to be honest I don't want to get rid of the 392, it's that much fun on the street. Plus in my little city I can definitely hold my own. For a fun driving, fairly quick, good handling and damn sexy look, what more do you need on the street. Thanks again brother for another great video. Stay strong.
I kept my 5.7 motor stock. Put a 3.09 LSD, used hellcat headers, cats, and exhaust, and a procharger and a 93 tune. Love the setup / very drivable as a daily and not too shabby at the track. Did most of the work myself to keep costs down. She runs high 11’s on pump gas. My only complaint is its slow out of the hole so I’m gonna bite the bullet and go for a torque converter and a driveshaft. If I had to do it over I would have thrown a Magnuson on it. I bought my car used with low miles. All in I’m around $15k for 190 HP gains at the wheel. My car is nearly paid off, has 50k miles on it and is still $20k cheaper then a used and abused Hellcat.
Perfect timing on this video for me, thinking about getting a 2 door 5.7 RAM later this year. After watching this I might just get some long tubes and a tune and call it good. Thanks, B.
I absolutely love Nitrous Oxide. I always request a double shot when doc is attempting to stick some damn metal probe into a cavity. For my vehicle, heck no. I saw enough carnage from it in the 70s and 80s. Crappy solenoids that either was not accurate enough or would not sustain the proper amount of fuel or gas. Then you have a oil pan full of crunchy silly putty.
I was really considering getting my 6.4 scatty cammed too... I want a little more play power. Not for track purposes, but for more fun with my Wife. Date night cruises 🙏🏽 nothing like it. ✊🏾
What cam would you recommend for purposes of this nature? It's seems racer x and his camp are happy with your shop and the work you've done to their cars. I would make the drive to your shop just for the peace of mind alone.
Best video in your series by far!! One thing that wasn't mentioned is HCs have gone nuts in the resale market, where as 392s have not. When I bought my 392, the price difference was about $20k. Now, that difference is well over $30k. Blowing my 392 is a more convincing option than it ever was
I watched your video with great interest as I'm wanting to improve my 6.4 hemi. But I've always heard that boosting a 6.4 would lead to cracked pistons and other engine damage. So now you've got me doing more research on the subject.
Thanks ... I am a numbers guy and you bring common sense to the table! I just finished a stroker 5.9 magnum to 408 C.I. based on computer modelling and a lot of trick parts ... we should be around the 625 hp at the flywheel and a boat load of torque...max RPM again based on the modelling sb 7k...I will let you know once we put in the 99 Dakota and get it on a DYNO...it only took 3 years to find and make our parts! A boat load of money...could have bot a 6.2 Redeye or Demon Engine for less than what I spent. Money Pit Express! live and learn. The engine in NA no Nitros etc.
I'm currently building a 5.7 hemi for a 95 Dakota 4x4 on the cheap. Since I am doing all the labor myself labor cost isn't an issue. Really 350 to 400 rwhp is my goal. This will be a very mild build. I intend to freshen up my low mileage non-mds 5.7 with a factory 6.1 cam, home ported heads, and homebuilt headers, since nothing is available for my application. I intend to use an MSD hemi 6 timing controller and a dual plane occ intake with 750 street demon carb. Like i said, this is a budget build. Boost is nice but seems like overkill for my application.
If you can do the work yourself you save a shit load of money! I pulled motor and did Texas Speed CNC ported Heads, Cam Motion Titan 2 cam, Johnson lifters, JLT Cold Air kit, MMX intake manifold and throttlebody with JBA Longtubes and Protorque 3200 for $5800. Tuning for E85 in spring! Should be over 500 to wheels
Trying to get what I can from the Scat Pack without expensive mods, going inside the engine, and obvious/permanent mods and breaking stuff. Similar to what you did with your SRT. PB is 11.36 @121.47 at 300 DA. Started thinking about Nitrous, thought about the installation, control & tuning issues you mentioned but had not given much thought to short and long term maintence issue you mentioned. As well maybe had not thought enough about transmission, diff, etc. Still thinking it's a big bang for the $ option if.......................... Thanks for the Nitrous discussion, much appreciated.
Im going simple if i went with the 5.7 Charger. Shortys with Highflow cats to pass emissions, 2.5" straight pipe after the cats, a 6.4 Intake manifold, and a tune. Disappointed that they restrict the 5.7 from factory because i like the 5.7 over the 6.4 even though the 6.4 is a bigger engine, i like the underdog. With the right setup, simple 5.7 setup gonna irritate alot of 6.4 owners
Thank you for the great info B mason! It keeps me on track! Question is your rumble bee decal running away from the hellcat? Or it's just in the forgotten corner 😁! Over all for those dreaming with a hellcat should just wait a bit more to collet more cash and buy a hellcat! I have my 21 wb 392 which makes me really happy. Thank you for being direct because People should know not to expect a lion to perform like a tiger! I enjoy your videos all the best to you sir!
Agree with the most being said, but in my case it doesn't work. 1, I hate superchager whining 2, Love shakers that's why I end up with the Scat Pack Shaker. The plan is add Nitrous Oxide with the window switch but only for Track mode. Normal mode stay stock and Nitrous will be used only in case of racing once a month. The other plan is making cut outs from factory active exhaust harware.
In your case, nitrous may be the best option. I would just highly suggest following maintenance protocols and precautions with nitrous. I've seen too many failures, and dealt with too many solenoid misfires on the dyno personally. That's why I'm such an advocate of the protocols if one were to choose to go with nitrous
I’d like to hear your opinions on stroking the motor, say 426 for 6.1s. 416 for the 5.7s. An a 448 for the 6.4s maybe tone that down a bit cause that’s not everyone’s cup of tea. But I agree boost is a bang for the buck. Get the big price out of the way an it’ll be more that enough an that’d feel happy with how they spent it time wise on a track
I purposefully left Strokers out of this video, primarily because I wanted to keep the video a little bit more "mod" focused, as these make up the majority of the questions I get asked. Guys that are planning on going with stroker combinations are a very focused group. And in most cases there's just no talking them out of it. The issue here is that many folks that are contemplating a stroker motor don't have an understanding of goal-setting, meaning they want a stroker motor but they don't know what they want to do with it. For example, Camshaft selection get too wild and/or while they're in there they end up spending tons of money on ported heads different intake manifolds and the like. And it gets extremely expensive very quickly for a gain that may not translate very well to the street. Especially when you consider the fact that a positive displacement supercharger on a stock engine will give more power than 90% of the street focused stroker engines will deliver. It's a topic that needs its own video.
$5,500 for a cam, headers, et cetera for a 5.7 (345 c.i.d.) is NUTS! My 360LA build costs a little more, and that includes blueprinting, a solid flat tappet, tool steel edm lifters, pushrods, oil pump, oil pan, heavy duty intermediate shaft, milodon timing gear, new dizzy, forged pistons and rods, internal balance crank, dual quads, headers and Trick Flow heads for about $1k more. I don't have to do any computer stuff either. I can't justify modern engines. If I want to run a modern hemi in my 68 barracuda, I also have to buy a computer and harness, AND a transmission. Modern iron does not pencil out. I don't need to swap out my 727 either! If I do decide to run a blower, that would require a piston change, and about $5k for a Dyer's 6-71 setup. Modern engines don't even come close.
Yo mason,I recently purchased a srt8 6.1 magnum,I wat to put a he'll cat engine n transmission in it.will the stock rear n drives haft be able to handle it
So you’re saying just LS swap your ride?..... got it 👍 I’ve got a 69 coronet and planning on doing a hemi swap. I’m a Chevy guy through and through but love my 69. Here’s where and why Chevy guys don’t get into Ford or mopar performance often. It’s because those two aren’t really aimed for the cheap budget blue collar people. This video proves the cost vs power of the mopar and Ford 5.0 is almost no different. By comparison take a LS 6.0, Ford coyote and a 6.4 hemi all with a budget of 6k for parts and 100% without a doubt the ls would become the more superior in gains per dollar and still be reliable. THATS why LSs are the most common swaps and builds. Weekend warriors need low budget friendly manufacturers.
The LS is cheaper due to economies of scale. It's been out for far longer than the coyote or the 5.7. (Nevermind the 6.4 and 5.0.) The LS has been made in huge numbers when compared to the hemi or cyotee, being offered in truck variants and more importantly in the case of the hemi, performance variants. It is compact, lightweight, and very power-dense. The aftermarket loves them, and they are extremely DIY friendly. In many ways, they really are the perfect engine. But they are far from bulletproof in terms of reliability. I see them fail literally every other week at the drag strip or at MSR. And when they do fail, the guys laugh them off saying, "well, at least they're cheap. " with quite a few of the guys who campaign Corvettes having one or two backup engines ready to go. For that matter we had a stock bottom end LS3 fail on the dyno. Bearing failure. You say you want a cheap engine for a blue-collar budget, these weekend warriors are going through that same "blue-collar budget" that you mentioned, about every 6 months with LS engines. Not exactly cheap.
I’ve seen new Hellcat engine for sale for $15000 Red eye engine is going for $22000, would that be a better deal for a 2018 Charger scatpack then a Whipple 3.0? You had mentioned the cost of boosting would be around $17,000 and assuming without drop in pistons and rods. How much more does that add in cost and does drivability suffer? Is it safe to boost without internals? Can I reliably run 6.5lbs without blowing my engine up? I have owned mostly Mustangs and Camaros as a younger man and have gone the dodge route for comfortably and functionality owning a charger. I’m not looking to compromise drivability and reliability for speed and want to do it right. How many other components would I have to buy to just convert to a hellcat engine? All sounds cheaper to swap motors? I have already bought the scatpack and want to build it. I’m not looking to be the fastest, just want longevity and reliability with extra kick over my stock 6.4. I will keep this car to become my classic weekend car, because my next will most likely be electric.
Well, as you said, you want longevity and reliability with a little bit of kick, get an e force. You will make less than a Hellcat, but it will also be extremely drivable and far more simple and inexpensive to install than a complete engine swap. To the rear wheels, it will make about 10 to 12% less power than a Hellcat. Not at all a bad place to be. So, the Hellcat engine costs $15,000, you will then need to contend with removal and replacement as well as all intercooling bits and pieces. Add to that the fuel system upgrades...You are still looking at another $5-6,000. Do you trust the condition of this used engine? You also need to make sure that you are in close contact with a tuner that can tune the Hellcat combination, this could potentially open its own can of worms. The aftermarket Supercharger kits have options for Tunes with their kits making things much easier, and cheaper, as a qualified tuner is going to hit you with a minimum of $2,000 to dialll this in. You will still need a solution to the bypass valve... $$$$. Based on what your criteria is, I don't think that a Hellcat swap would be the right way to go. The only thing that you would get with the Hellcat swap would be the potential to go significantly further up in power. Over what a stock Hellcat combination will yield. And considering you can remove the supercharger kit and sell it when you get your new car, I would say that that alone would push me in the direction of the aftermarket supercharger verses the Hellcat engine swap
@@bmasontv i’d like to first say thank you so much for your knowledge and guidance! The hellcat would be brand a new engine, but sounds like it would be a lot of work and unnecessary for what I’m looking for. I know that I have decided to just go boost and not swap the motor because of your suggestions, what do you think about the E-force over the Whipple 3.0? Also, should I do drop in pistons/rods? I live in California, so I am limited to only a couple good tuners. I will be going to full-blown performance in Los Angeles and they are very reputable and they have suggested the Whipple. Again, thank you so much for your guidance.
Is it true stock 392 ring gap doesn't allow SC?? Or only low boost 2-5lbs? ..asking because you made a good point on resell, if possible stock engine low boost would be ideal if looking to sell in future? Just sell the kit...great vid 💪😎
Well, yes and no. Yes the ring Gap is tight from the factory, large-diameter Pistons with small ring Gap is not a good combination for Boost. but it is really more tune/fuel that limits power production. 5 to 7 lb of boost with a conservative tune will yield roughly 120 to 150 horsepower to the rear wheels. Asking any more than that is probably not the best idea regardless of fuel type
It will offer up a minor bump in available power, I think the most I've heard of it somewhere around 7 horsepower. it's recapturing a small, yet not insignificant percentage of the parasitic loss from front engine accessory drive. Keep in mind the front engine accessory Drive, in total, equates to about 30-40 horsepower worth of parasitic loss. Problem is, you realistically won't notice it from the seat-of-the-pants
As it pertains to hemis with an exhaust manifold and not the tubular headers that come on the scat packs and the hellcats, broken bolts are extremely common. To give you an example of the 25 trucks that were in the fleet of trucks for my company, all but 6 of them after about a hundred and fifty thousand miles had bolts replaced. Now, as it pertains to the lifter failure issue, none of the trucks in the fleet have had lifters fail yet. Most of them have well over $150,000 miles.. over half have over 200,000 mi. But understand that these trucks are driven primarily on highways and are meticulously maintained in terms of oil changes
I live less than 2 miles from the a 1/4 track. How often should I change my oil when I comes to dragging my car year round, it's pretty much just a drag car. So far I've turned 11.800 in my Scat, stock tune, no parts, Drag Pack and removed seats. Thank in advance.
I change my oil about every 3-4 months. This equates to roughly once per every 35-45 or so passes. Thing is, I change it that regularly regardless of how much I drive the car. So that can be a couple of road trips and no trips to the drag strip, or that could be me going to the drag strip every weekend
You are really telling it like it is. B I have scored a used E Force with 30k miles for my 6 sp,5.7 that has a SmoothBoost electronic bypass valve installed and an HHP tune. Have you any advice on what I should do with this supercharger prior to install? Thanks
The only advice I would give you before you install it is to make sure that you check all mating surfaces for flatness. When you install it, follow the manufacturer's suggested torque values and sequence. Other than that, make sure she's clean and you will have a very fun package once it's done
