It doesn't always require to tear the intake manifold off to clean. There are induction cleaning services that can spray cleaners in through the throttle body and cleans the carbon off the valves without dismantling the engine.
Glock .40 4 do they work though? And how often? I’m wondering the same if I should run some CRC for example like every oil change or couple thousand miles. Idk any tip would help.
Glock .40 4 I just did my mint 2006 CT’s 2.8 sprayed combustion chamber cleaner into the intake similar to gm old Cleens while running then shut car of started 2 hours later sprayed the rest of the can shut off over night started in morning drove 30 miles on highway at 70 mph and a few harder pulls later on . The results were spectacular increase in power and drive ability . I changed oil after my 30 mile drive with 5-30 synthetic and the tiny oil filter
@@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521it works well if you've been doing it periodically. If you REALLY let it build up like most people, 60k, 100k etc it bakes on bad and the cleaners won't do enough.
Thank you so much for this video. The chances of dropping crap into the cylinder just reduced by 12%. But I think i might just save my money up and let a mechanic do this and a pcv job. Like to note i did an Italian tune up and my gas milage went from 15.8 mpg to almost 17. Just bought one with low miles but just about all of the annoying small but expensive problems (blend door actuators, blower fan, poorly installed headlights, rear center light, seats, trim, steering wheel controls, bent wheel, one rear backup light, one b pillar(interior), windshield wiper control unit, one windshield arm due to poor reassembly, cabin filter mounting tabs to body, marker light) from a friend for what the dealer was going to give him plus a hundred bucks just cause its so well. Dealer wanted over 3500 to do all of the repairs. All done with that stuff, engine and transmission run well but my goal is to make it like new and keep it forever. Its like a luxury 2013 camaro rs with mag ride. I would say better than gen2 cts.
When manually turning the engine how do you know when each valve is top dead centre? I want to make sure I know that my valves are closed When doing this.
How do you tell when the cylinder is TDC? I'm going to remove my intake manifold to replace the injectors, plugs, and coils - can have a look see in the intakes then as well. 60K miles on mine. It was idling a little rough, but a tank with techron and one with Liqui Moly valve clean, and it's nice and smooth now. I suspect dirty injectors.
Great tutorial! Do you have the link for the video where you change out the fuel injector? You mentioned that you show that in the next video, but I can’t find it. Thanks!
So you removed the O2 extenders, Isn’t because the car had catalytic converters codes? Why didn’t the check engine light came on after you put the sensors without the extenders?
blackericdenice, I actually was having a misfire issue on my 2013 Cadillac ATS 3.6 with less than 50k miles on the odometer. Dealer tried the gm top engine cleaner, which helped minimally. When I pulled off my intake manifold to investigate myself, the valves were horribly coked with oil and rock hard carbon deposits that no chemical only cleaning will ever be able to solve. Cleaned them manually like shown in the video with some rifle brushes attached to a cordless drill and brake cleaner. Night and day difference, no more shaking and misfires at idle. The pcv system on this motor is to blame. It sucks in a lot of oil from the crankcase that just ends up baking rock hard onto the valves. For anyone doing this, invest in an oil catch can to prevent this build up in the future. My 2 cents.
I wish I had my Buick 3.8 Gen I or Gen II back. Unfortunately my Cadillac CTS has the stupid DI 3.6 LFX, and I have burnt-oil smell , ever since oil once seeped beyond the valve cover gasket. The dealer said there was no leak, even though there was an obvious oil stain all along the gasket.
I think the real question here, is how to install a oil catch can in line with the Pcv to prevent the oil gunk accumulation on intake valves to begin with. This was an overlooked design flaw in these 1st gen direct injection motors that should have come with a catch can installed.
1997LT1Camaro you can put 3 oil catch whatever this is a flawed design it helps a bit but if you drive mostly city be prepared to do this.there are cars that at 40 k miles you already have to do this.so if you have a gdi get ready to learn this or pay mechanic top dollars to do it. Welcome to the green world.
1997 You are correct in saying fit a catch can, the crankcase vent draws the oil into the inlet, the toothed timing wheel fitted to the rear of the crank throws the oil up into the cam cover at the back, Prevention is better than unnecessary maintenance.
The pcv valves on these engines get plugged easily. When that happens pressure in the block builds up and blows an oil mist into the intake from the fresh air intake side. Pull PVC every oil change and clean. I also opened the holes a little bit. After doing this, add the oil catch can to reduce the amount that gets pulled through the pcv into the intake.
I'd love to see GDI engine manufacturers install catch cans stock or some kind of system that would periodically inject cleaner into the intake stream while driving to keep the valves clean. There could be a separate tank, sort of like a DEF system on a diesel.
Tech already exists, use a water meth injection system with a tank for gdi cleaner. Have the computer run the cleaner during the same conditions a diesel runs regen. That being said ford actually "fixed" this issue, they run port AND gdi injectors on their newer engines.
Is there a way to adjust the timing without marks? I took the chain out and my stupidity allowed me to turn the the sprocket s individually, which turned the cams. Now I have no idea where I am at. Call me an idiot because I am. 2015 Chev malibu 2.5
If anyone has ever done this job, you know it is a nightmare. It is better if you have a PROPER walnut blasting setup. Still requires you to knock off last deposits though
I wrecked my 2011 STS 3.6 LLT so I went bought a 2008 CTS LY7 beautiful car with a blown engine...I was just gonna swap out the motor and transmission from the STS to the CTS.Will that work?
Why not pour in a cleaning solution like seafoam or similar, let it sit, then suck it out with a vaccuum? You can catch the solution before it enters the shop vac by making a "catch can" with a jar, lid, and a couple hose fittings.
Is all the gunk coming from the pcv valve clogging and gunking up and venting that straight into the intake? If so, what if you just vent the blow by gases straight to the atmosphere, not saying that is legal, but would that be a fix to the gunking on the intake ports?
yeah its all coming from the PCV system you can all so install a catch can. What sucks is this is now what you will have to deal with on a GDI systems.
Yes, it would help your intake ports but the main problem then is that it doesn't clear the crankcase of the fuel vapors which then dilutes and poisons your oil. You would be trading a fixable upper end problem (cleaning intake valves) for more serious lower end problems. The crankcase needs a vacuum like that created by the PCV system to get rid of the fumes. A decent catch can is the best solution overall.
these are a common engine here in australia, but over here, they are called an "alloytec". Anyway, i was wondering, could you just use some fuel on a rag, and wipe most of it out that way?
gav0253, unfortunately it’s not that easy. The deposits are rock hard and baked into the valves. I had to use brass rifle cleaning brushes attached to a cordless drill, and it still took a lot of effort. No chemical on its own will remove this stuff
why not take the spark plug out set your regulator to like 5psi and just fill the port with cleaner let it sit and dissolve every thing and suck it out..
What year Cadillac and which 3.6 engine ? ? I have a 2016 Cadillac ATS Premium AWD with the 3.6L LFX engine ... I wonder if they improved on the carbon build up in that year or not.
85rx7se not sure if that year has the revision, but they started placing an injector behind intake valves to work in conjunction with the direct injection fuel injectors. This prevents all of this gunk
@@1997LT1Camaro ... No way to know for sure without taking it apart or myabe a GM Parts Dept can tell from the VIN if it has the newest design or not. It would not be easy to retrofit, as it would mean a newer intake manifold, extra injectors, new wiring harness and probably a computer reflash or maybe a whole new computer. .. Time will tell if it will be an issue for my car, as it does not much use (about 5K per year)
@@1997LT1Camaro .. I checked my Cadillac Factory service manual schematic and it only shows 6 fuel injectors ... So I would say it does not have the extra injectors to clean the carbon off the valves. Time will tell if it will be an issue. Newer oil formulations may minimize the buildup.
My car rides fine when driving at idle it has a shake I've replaced the motor mounts and spark plugs its acting up.worse in the cold. Do I need this done. How can I tell and where can I get it done I asked around and no one has a idea what what I am talking about
It's pretty obvious to me, that this is the first time that this dude has attempted this job. He didn't even know what tools to use!? And yes, you can use the air intake "solution to do this job much easier and MORE effectively! That's how GM teaches their mechanics to get this job done. The older the car, the more times you need to do the operation, because it doesn't all come off at once. Just use your head and do not expect this to be a quick one time fix. I would do it weekly at first and then after a 4 to 5 weeks, go to every other month or so...make sure that you do this AFTER the MAP sensor of the intake...like just before the throttle body opening. and by the way...hasn't anybody ever heard of generic CARBORATER CLEANER? It's much stronger than Sea Foam and is what mechanics have used for over 50 years! Meter the flow of the cleaner spray until just before the engine wants to die AT IDLE; do this MULTIPLE TIMES and you will find your engine running better and MUCH smoother.
I just got a 2016 impala with the V6. I’m in love with car but the susceptibility of it getting the valves dirty and ruining the engine worries me. Any tips on how to prevent it fro getting too dirty??
You can see it just a good light if in doubt turn it again and you will get the hang of it is pretty simple.if the cleaner goes down is not completely closed.
When I meant throttle-body cleaner, I meant to say GDI cleaner, but thanks for the reply. My 2017 Acadia has a 2 stage PCV system so I'm hoping the buildup will be reduced and the need to clean the valves extended.
I would NOT recommend those cheap HF brushes, nor doing this procedure in this manner. Ive used them before and the metal bristles break off all the time. You wanna talk about cylinder scoring- have a few of those fall down in the cylinder. This guy is risking more damage than getting any sort of benefit from doing this procedure. The true cause of this buildup is the pcv valve dumping blow by oil higher up in the intake piping coating the valve stems. A much better and safer procedure is vinyl tubing connected to a shop vac and gently rubbing the edge of the tube against the valve stem. Then soak the closed valves with seafoam and use no mechanical scrubbing!!
Heaps. You drill out the PCV valve to increase air flow and put a catch can on that side. Justcommodores has the goods. These are great engines when you do that mod. If they are in a Holden, not sure why you would buy anything else.
this is a terrible idea. you cant clean the combutstion chambers so you still risk detonation. the brass brush bristles will fly off while spinning and run through the valves. the heads need to come off.
This is a well-known issue across all GDI engines, not just from GM but Audi, BMW, Ford, and Hyundai among others. Carbon buildup restricts the amount of air each cylinder can intake on a given stroke. Less air = less power per stroke. Less power means more revs to achieve a given torque output, which means more fuel is burned. Simple physics and chemistry, friend. The GM 3.6 engine is even subject to a factory technical service bulletin on this very problem, which causes reduced efficiency and engine misfires. You can read it here: www.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/99451/c0f7e87e GM recommends you use a chemical solvent, but this does not effectively remove all the deposits, and can cause damage to the cylinder walls because it frees pieces of hard-coked carbon without removing them, just knocking them loose into the cylinders, scratching the walls upon startup. The only way to completely remove them is with the procedure shown in the video. However if you feel cheated, I'm happy to refund every penny I charged you for this free DIY instructional video, which shows you step-by-step how to perform this service yourself with common and inexpensive tools.
