This is the best video on this subject by far. Thx. I wish my 1997 jimmy wasn't rusty underneath from Chicago's salt winters! So won't go without much cussing.
Did this on two different S-10's (Twice on one truck); getting ready to do it on an IDENTICAL Blazer! same color even). In addition to all you did, I added an additional chassis ground at the splice to the frame nearby, and I soldered and heat shrank the connections. The electrical ground is all the way at the rear bumper mount, and I think I had poor grounding which caused the pump failure. Very good instructional video.
Hi, you did a big job while filming it and explaining all the things! Many thanks for uploading this replacement lesson, I've learned a lot! Have a nice day and cheers from Russia!
good stuff took me two hours after watching, thanks for the bolt sizes for the drive shaft and tank straps very helpful I'm sitting in the Blazer driving down my dirt road!!!
+Carlos Cuadra Hi, I live outside the U.S. And I have a pretty good mechanic, who I plan to have do this. He does not speak English, or have a lot of experience with American cars, but I am going to make him watch this video, before he starts and I will translate it with my so so Spanish. This is buy FAR the best do it your self video I have ever seen on RU-vid. I feel guilty for having watched it for free. Thank You.
You guys down south are lucky in that there is little to no rust lol..up by me in in the great north (wisconsin)everything gets rusted and seized up and need sprays,wax,penatrent oils and hard heat to remove even the most simple fasteners lolz...induction heatinf may even be needed for areas by fuel lines and gas tanks..the way the drive shaft just (fell) off basicly was cool..up here its all worst case seniaro most of the time...were good at thread repair and tapping on a positive note lmao...thanks for the run thru on this video,very well done..most videos like this areent that great,this one acually heled me answer a question i had..
shit lol i live in texas and everything rust's here dude,the humidity is horrible,i put some headers on a 6.0 ls swap im doing the other day,i havent even driven it yet,well it gets so humid,my blazer is in the garage and the garage gets condensation,so everything metal gets sweat on it,wet,the header bolts are ARP chrome looking and already have rust,in one week,im a stereo guy a bass head,so i have subs with ported enclosures,i had a wrx hatch back,brand new,with a huge sub with ported box parked in the garage ok,so the magnet weighs like 70 lbs,huge chunk of metal,well it sweats and then theres a port opening,i dont go off too much so it sat,i walked out one day,opened the door and the seats and console had all this fucking white nasty mildew growing on everything,i freaked out,so this is from humidity man,i sold the car and im doing a ls swap in a blazer and yea shits rusting before i can even drive it,so the south is notorious for rust buckets dude,we dont have the dry air like yall do,your getting rust from the salt on the rds arent you ? i know a lot of states with snow and salt rust that way,later man
Knew the Spare tire, not about the Drive Shaft coming out.. looked like I could do it without taking it out... not a big deal though... one of these days I am replacing it just for the bad sending unit... no way I pull the pump out and just replace the sending unit on a 2003 Blazer. Less than 90Kmi. but still gonna replace the whole thing this year. Thanks for the video
lol do not worry as i am just taking mine apart and will be fixing the line and yes dropping the tank in a week and changing the punp also nothing wrong with the tank but code comes back as P0452 and i just decided to change pump as module comes with it and makes life easier
I was going to say the same thing. He must be in southern California. I live in Chicago and my 02 Chevy blazer is a rust bucket. The ball joints are squeaking like crazy from rust corrosion. Lol
Excellent teaching sir... i may need to do this... Question i don't trust those type of connectors and prefer to solder those wires and use heat shrink tube or liquid tape.. is that okay... You seem to be a real pro... can you tell me if a pump can gradually cause issues before finally failing like the one in your video? i am working on this 2001 blazer (198k miles)with a low power and bucks etc... starts easy but runs aweful... i get po 300... have done timing chain ,fuel filter, cap,rotor plugs and wires.. still runs badly... so now i am waiting for new spider injectors and a new distributor since i have seen other replace these parts and fix miss fires.... but am thinking a fuel pump not working correctly(inconsistency) delivering fuel to injectors may be the issue... any thoughts of what else could cause my issues is appreciated... i did a fuel pressure test mine goes to 55 psi and when i turn key off it drops approx 1 psi every 20 seconds... thanks again for your fantastic easy to follow repair video... i just subbed...
You can use whatever connectors you want as long it's a good connection. A fuel pump can be intermittent before it fails. A P0300 is a crank sensor code. I would use a scan tool and see what's going on.
@@InitechAuto yes i changed crank sensor already. and cam sensor which made no difference (those codes do not come up anymore...the po300 is multiple miss fire code which is pretty common for 4.3 and seems to have many causes. from the research i have done.. i only have cheap scan tool (just tells trouble codes) unfortunately ...i believe from various research on this truck... i am getting very close to solving this puzzle...buying and learning to use a much better scan tool as well as improving my trouble finding skills is definitely on my to do list...thax
I have done both ways. Whatever is easiest for you. You don't even have to remove the bed all the way just make sure you disconnect the electrical for the lights
My pump is about to go. Question is why does the new pump require a different plug? I hate splicing OEM wire harnesses and if one buys a brand new, AC Delco pump why are the plugs different?
Hi there is it possible to drain tank by simply turning KEY to on? Cuz dont want to mess w fuse jumper. Once drained then unhook battery cable? Thnx for info
Thank you for posting this video. Now I know what to ask another mechanic re: the bad work my 1st mechanic just did. Have you ever heard of a fuel pump switch in the lower right front passenger panel under the glove comparment? Does that have anything to do with my car cutting off after fuel pump replacement? Thanks.
Mzleca22 What do you mean by "your car cutting out"? Does it shut off as you are driving it? Or does it sputter and then die? If it shuts off instantly, Its possible it may be a bad ignition module. Sputtering is more likely to be fuel related. Just my thoughts! Of course have it checked out by a reputable mechanic.
So what happens if i did touch pin 85 with power? I think i accidentally did and now its not reading any fuel pressure. It was only ready 8-10 to begin with
@@hatetombofficial2954 Check your power fuses. Also check your PCM fuses. Did you replace the fuel pump? Pin 30 should have power. The only time pin 85 has power is with the ignition on during crank mode and while the vehicle is running.
hi bud, i have a weird issue on my 99 chevy venture. van died on me, i couldnt hear the pump prime on ignition, i changed fuel filter, the relay clicks but i changed that as well, i replaced pump with a spectra after-market, it buzz's on ignition but dont not have any pressure, i even popped the fuel line off to the filter and zero fuel is present, its like the manufacture of the pump forgot to put in the impeller, i called supplier they told me possible bad pump, i removed and installed another new spectra pump, same darn thing again. i have now ordered an OEM pump, we shall see the results tomorrow. any ideas??? what type of voltage should i be getting out of the 4 pin plug that plugs into the pump unit? if the pump buzz's on 2 second prime does this mean the pump should be pumping??? did i get two bad pumps back to back. any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!
I know this may sound silly, but did you put gas back into the fuel tank? The voltage should be battery voltage. Make sure you have a good ground. When you hear the relay activate the fuel pump you should have pressure right away. And yes, it is possible to have bad pumps. But to get two. That is really bad luck! You can test the pumps before you put the gas tank back up. Just supply 12 volts and ground to the correct pins and it should pressurize. Just hook your pressure tester directly to the out nipple. Be careful not to get hurt. Wear safety glasses.
Nicoya The last two pumps I tried, I connected everything up and it hummed/buzzed like it was working, and zero pressure, I disconnected it at prior to the fuel pump (tank has $36 in fuel for sure that I put in on the first pump change) and it won't even trickle any fuel out!.... I have changed many pumps of the course of 15 years and I remember if you even had any leaks it would squirt out everywhere!... it must be the spectra pump, who would have guessed. Tomorrow I install an OEM pump, we will see what happens. I suppose if I test the voltage at the pump and I'm getting 12v and it powers 12v when I turn the keys it should be good to go for a new pump install.
As long as you have fuel pressure it will get you home. Leave the wire in place just to get you home. If you remove the wire. It might stall if you can't get the relay back in there fast enough.
And do not need to remove the fuel pump relay and "risk your computer", there is a little contact named fuel primer left side of the relay, apply 12V and the pump will run..... but hey.... "Everyone does it whatever way they want" ;) If you shrink your heat shrink tubing with flame torch you can burn your splices and risk the sealing, do it with the proper tool, a heat gun, but hey, "Everyone burn it whatever way they want" ;) xD
Three more things that should be done, # 1 you have the gas tank down and the fuel pump out, take a flashlight and look down the opening, and look for any water and or dirt, if there is any of them is there, now is the time to clean the gas tank or have it cleaned, # 2 do not use any flame anywhere near the gas tank, # 3 before you put the drive line back up carefully, take off the caps of the u joint turning them as you go, watch and make sure any of the needles of the bearing do not come out, after you have taken off the caps, whip off the ends of the u joint off with a clean cloth, the ends of the u joint should look smooth, no groves or uneven parts & not rusty, if you see anything I have just said replace the u joint, before putting the caps back on the u joint take little finger and put some grease in the caps, carefully put the caps back on making sure they go on all the way, if they do not, take the cap back off and make sure none of the needles are out of place and stuck up in the end of the cap, if so take something small and sharp and put the needle back in place. Thank you Dennis
Dennis Friedman Good advice on steps #1 and #2. However, step #3 is totally unnecessary. You could just be opening up a can of worms if you drop the caps. Thanks for your input.
@@InitechAuto All I saw at the end was the Satic pressure with the key on. I was curious because I think mine is failing. I only have static pressure of 55, it will not go to 60 like yours and then driving down the Highway I only have 50 psi
@@InitechAuto I did I changed the filter it helped a little at first bu right back where it was if not a little worse. I changed it five years ago so I'm changing it again. Thanks for the info. I can't find a book a repair manual, but I finally found something online saying 60-66psi normal
Stephen Dee I’m sure there are other videos that will show you that. This just demonstrates a much easier and less frustrating way. But to each his own
