*EDIT* MY CLUTCH WAS REIMBURSED BY TOYOTA!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d4uyj9g_VN0.html * For context, cause I have been asked this a bit in the comments, I decided to keep the OEM clutch due to SCCA Street Class rules. They only allow you to legally use a clutch that is essentially identical to the OEM one. Otherwise I would have upgraded to a twin clutch or something. It is definitely more of a take you by your word sort of thing, and honestly, a of course a better clutch won't give you a performance benefit unless you tune the car, but people will protest for the pettiest shit at the National level, so I really don't wanna take that chance lol.
Hey man I just did my first SCCA autox at 3500 miles on my MY24. On my fourth run I stalled at the start then right after go to let up the clutch and it started grinding and clunking. It got worse and worse through my run so I stopped the run and nursed her home. No check engine light or anything. Clunking and vibrating and ticking all the way, it was painful. What’s the best way to handle this? 3500 miles!!! And I’ve driven manual for 20+ yrs And I haven’t done any track or events or racing whatsoever. This was my first event or time really driving her hard.
@@happyhills_garageIt just stalled almost like I released the clutch and forgot I was in gear because I was talking to the official. I don’t even know if that had anything to do with it. All I know if after that run, anytime I went to release the clutch pedal while in gear, the car made some really bad noises and vibrations..metal on metal sounds. And seemed to get worse and worse. Dropped it off at my dealer yesterday so hoping for a diagnosis today. Considering I bought the car there and it now has fewer than 3700miles, they’ll cover whatever damage was done… but yeah this issue may go beyond just the clutch, could also be other parts in transmission
@bbb4019 hmmm. They should definitely cover the coat of the job if it does require a replacement of something. If they don't, though, then let me know in my IG dm's and I can maybe help try to get you something.
I’ve seen several people saying their GRC clutches are going out under 10k miles. It’s definitely an issue. No matter how much you abuse a clutch it shouldn’t be going out so early at stock power levels. I hate seeing the dudes on pages trying to cope with their purchase by saying the people with these issues can’t drive. Why didn’t you purchase a nice after market twin disc clutch so you aren’t in this situation again in 10-20k miles? Thanks for making this video the more people talk about it the more likely they’ll produce a different clutch for these.
It is for sure annoying when the only response people give is, "Learn to drive" lol. And I agree, hopefully there can be enough issues similar to this documented so Toyota can take the necessary steps to resolve the issue. I went with the stock OEM option primarily to stay within the SCCA's Street class rules...it's unfortunate, but we can only install an OEM clutch that is essentially "identical to stock" legally in the class. And, afaik, there are no OEM clutches available in the aftermarket right now that fit that description.
I found a solution and it will be a Uniclutch which is made in Australia. Remember the GRY has been out for a few years before the GRC. In Australia they have done the experiments and the research with the GRY which is similar to the GRC
Yeah, there is a lot of aftermarket for the GRY, and if I remember seeing correctly a Toyota OEM upgrade for the clutch? Not sure if that's available in the states though.
I learned manual on a new WRX and the clutch definitely took a beating under my ownership but I ended up selling the car at 40k miles and the clutch was perfectly fine. A good amount of that driving was in stop and go traffic too which causes more wear on the clutch. A clutch should not be slipping so early and it's a shame that Toyota even released a car with such an issue imo.
That is honestly a little alarming. I absolutely thrashed on my clutch in my gt86. That car didn’t see a single easy day in its life. 80k miles of track days, auto cross, burnouts, donuts, and touge runs. That clutch never slipped and looked pretty healthy when I last saw it. Under 20k on anything short of a super car doesn’t make much sense
Hmm...so I wasn't the only one who thought something was strange about my 2024 GR CE's clutch. Just took delivery last week and drove it home 540 mi from Kansas to Colorado. For the break-in on that long drive, I would frequently accelerate smoothly from ~2800-4000 RPM (and later to 4500) and let off the gas to let the revs slowly fall back down. On a few of those pulls, I smelled the clutch which seemed very odd to me but I figured it was just breaking in (though my 350Z and F82 M4 never had that issue during break-in). In the past week of ownership, I have smelled it twice going up my short driveway with a minor incline which my M4 hasn't done in 6+ years of ownership. I have driven MT cars for 30 years (learned to drive on one, actually) and all of this has never happened before. Until seeing your video, I thought my case was unique. I was being careful with my clutch anyway but will be extra cautious now. Thanks for the heads up. Looking forward to hopefully hearing the outcome of your discussion with Toyota, although Im not holding my breath that they'll do anything.
The clutch smell is a very "common" thing with these cars, even I had that happen, and it is definitely indicative of something not being right as compared to other vehicles for sure.
The clutch in these things suck. Worst clutch in a new car ever! Driving this car is like watching a delicate ballet performance. It is stunning and graceful , but be prepared for some hidden behind the $cenes effort$ to keep it in perfect $hape. It's delightful, but it is high-maintenance.
I would have upgraded to a xclutch stage 1 going to be substantially more reliable clutch.. OEM one just to weak so you don’t go through this again.. any reason you didn’t upgrade.
I need to just make a comment and pin it so I don't have to keep answering this question lol. I decided to keep the OEM clutch due to SCCA Street Class rules. They only allow you to legally use a clutch that is essentially identical to the OEM one. Otherwise I would have upgraded to a twin clutch or something. Not mad about the question btw, just have answered it a few times already 😅
Interesting. I am at 65,000kms on the GR Yaris, with a tune and original clutch. I bounce off the limiter multiple times a day. Do you use iMT? Every time I forget to switch it on I can feel it grabbing hard
I do use iMT quite a bit while driving cause it is very convenient and works well. Even during autocross/track it helps and is very good at what it does. I have definitely seen a lot of Yaris' having these same issues as well, some at lower miles/kilometers than 5-10k. It seems to happen to some, and none for others.
Definitely seems like something is up. Mine smells terrible getting up the tiny incline of my driveway. Also are there any cheaper flywheel options available? Not a fan the noisy/vague bite point dual mass we have.
Yeah, it doesn't like trying to get up any sort of incline. The hill climb assist definitely works well, though, I must say. For the flywheel, I have seen that there are actually quite a few aftermarket options available, to include single mass flywheels, which are slightly cheaper.
every GRC owner is having issues with the clutch including myself. I currently have 7k miles on the cluster and my clutch slipping around 5k rpm. My GRC has never been abuse or track. 😢
Hmmm, I only know one person with a GRC, but he doesn't have any Clutch issues. The car is completely stock. IMO I think Cody's issue was a freak incident (that should have been covered under warranty). For other GRC owners tho?.. Maybe the stock clutch is just far too weak to handle slightly increased torque numbers. It's too early to say.
I don't think EVERY GRC owner is having issues, but I do agree that there are a lot of complaints, failures, replacements, and overall curiosity involving the clutch on this car, and even the GR Yaris since it was released. Unfortunate to hear that you are one of the owners who ise also having issues.
It seems very mixed as far as GRC owners having clutch issues. Quite a few I have heard had issues before 5k miles, some around 10k. This also includes the GR Yaris, especially during its initial release. I also thin that my situation was an unfortunate circumstance with the clutch/pp, and I am really unhappy with this situation not being covered under warranty. What makes it even worse is that they had made the decision to not warranty it before even diagnosing the car at all. So that's interesting to begin with.
I pay over 5800 to replace mine, parts and labor included. At 53000 miles, hydraulic clutch bearing when out contaminating clutch and flywheel, break fluid and clutch dust mix like a mud paste
That amount sounds about right if the flywheel was included in the cost. At least you were able to get to over 50k miles before that happened, but still an unfortunate occurrence for sure.
If anyone else has a gr do y’all have problems with your clutches. I’m worried now I have a grc with 6500 miles and was wondering is this for a lot of grc
Interesting photos, thank you. I am concerned about the clutch in this car as well, especially after a valet absolutely ROASTED it in Los Angeles. Had no idea the hotel was valet only, so was kinda forced to use them. Heard it redlining up to the ramp, car comes back reeking of clutch. I hope I won't suffer a similar fate.
That is unfortunate to hear about the valet driving a manual without knowing how to drive a manual...I think you should be okay, but with how the clutch seems to wear, who knows.
Totally agree, but it appears that dealerships in general try their best to not warranty them whatsoever. My dealer made the decision to not warranty my issue before even taking in and diagnosing the car. Believe me, I am writing up an initial email to send to Toyota, regardless of if I get an email back from Luk about the pressure plate wear. There is a Yaris owner who successfully had their clutch warrantied after pestering Toyota enough; hope I can receive the same but as a reimbursement.
@roman12345ish the dealerships, unfortunately, will 90% of the time consider this a wear and tear item and claim abuse on the car, thus resulting in them not warrantying clutch no matter the mileage. They also will say that it will be too long of a process to submit a claim, etc. That's why you have to take it up higher.
Im sure youve probably come across the same pictures I have seen when looking into this but seems like yours isnt nearly the only one to be missing chunks out of them. Also seen a comment or two that Toyota have covered it or at least part of it from one or two comments around online, might be a dealer to dealer type situation on that though.
I have seen some of the pictures you are talking about, including watching the video about the 700mile GR Corolla clutch replacement having the same looking pressure plate. Granted, that guy admitted to launching the crap out of it after tuning it cause they were testing the strength of the stock components due to wanting to upgrade it anyways. There is a thread about how a GRY owner pestered Toyota enough with valid arguments, which is actually what I am using as a template for my emails, where he got the clutch repair warrantied over in the UK. I am hoping to get a full reimbursement, but who knows how long it will take, or if it will even happen.
I’ve had a similar experience in my 7th gen GTI. A few spirited launches in an autocross event glazed the clutch over and it became easy to slip as soon as the turbo kicks in. I ended up upgrading the clutch, but in between the event and getting the replacement done, it fixed itself. But I still went ahead and replaced the clutch because if one event glazed the clutch, it’s gonna happen again. It’s disappointing, but the replacement clutch was so much better that a repair became an upgrade. Hope your’s end up that way too!
Awesome to hear that an aftermarket option fixed your issue! I've been talking to a ton of people who have also had similar issues with their GTI, EVO, and Corvette clutches in the past. Unfortunately, I had to stick with the OEM stock option due to their not being any similar OEM aftermarket options, primarily to stay within the SCCA Street class rules...Hopefully this one holds up better, but if it happens again, I am most definitely going to say F it and upgrade the clutch and head into the Street Touring classing instead. I will still be fighting to get a reimbursement/warranty claim, but who knows if that will happen. The fact that they heavily marketed these cars for racing is enough evidence of why it should be warrantied for going out so soon after just autocrossing it lol.
I definitely gave it a thought, but I am trying to keep the car in line with Street Category rules of the SCCA. I'm also not trying to mod the car much until after the initial warranty runs dry...which is kind of ironic considering the circumstances 🙃 If there was an OEM one available, I probably would have gotten that for sure.
@@happyhills_garage sorry for my ignorance but how is the SCCA able to determine if you have an aftermarket clutch or not? As far as I’m aware the only way is to open up the bell housing and I doubt they’ll be doing that. Lol
All good, and not ignorant for thinking an obvious thing lol, but at a National level people get PETTY. They will protest for anything, and for things like a clutch it turns into a taking your word it sort of thing. The clutch won't give you a performance benefit...other than not prematurely dying...but I like to keep my reputation as good as possible cause some people do legit cheat with tunes, etc and don't say a word, but get caught.
Can confirm mines been doing it. it slipped several times since I’ve had it the car has 25,000 miles now. And honestly, I’m starting to think this thing is a lemon.
Hey. my sister has a 23 GRC n her clutch went out once under 4k miles n it went out again at 10k again. Toyota paid for it the first time n we are dealing with them to fix it once again.
Woah, those are insanely low miles! I have heard of a couple other GRC owners, and even Yaris owner’s, who have had their clutches go around that amount of miles. Even wilder that it is happening a second time. Glad to hear the first clutch was warrantied, though! Hopefully, I can work something out with Toyota soon and get a reimbursement for mine. Hopefully, they are tracking all of these clutch issues and maybe attempting to fix it.
It’s very strange how hit and miss this issue is. I see plenty say they have over 10k miles and no issues and some under 4k or at around 10k. I have not noticed anything (I am only at 750 miles in my 2024 CE). I did smell burning but that was only on an incline and I was just riding the clutch too long at a stop sign where I had to keep gradually moving forward. Hopefully I don’t run into this
I agree, it's very random and weird how the issues are occurring. Seems like a few people have even experienced the same issue only a few thousand miles after the initial clutch issue was fixed. Hopefully, if anyone else runs into this issue, there will have been enough of us bringing it to Toyota's attention that they will do something about it. I am currently in communication with Toyota and trying to work something out. Will make an update video when I find anything out.
Bro you are still in the break in period 😅 just a good FYI get a oil change at 721, and the clutch where breaking in take longer sor a stupid reason, don't really get gard on your car till around 1200 to 3000 miles I had mi e replaced @6k the clutch has been replaced andI'm now around 21k with no issues. But yeah mine was covered under warranty as well.
@@Lairex_Rai I’m now at 1,250 miles. Oil change isn’t required until 5,000 miles, per the owners manual. People do that for peace of mind but not required or even proven to be beneficial.
I've seen similar comments regarding the clutch wear posted on FB and the GR Corolla Forum. With around 1500 miles on my engine/clutch I felt a brief moment of slippage occur as I was going from a stop up a driveway. In my 20 years of driving clutch this has never happened to me, unless the clutch was already heavily worn (ie. if I had not replaced the clutch that the previous owner had installed). Even after 70,000 miles on a clutch that I had broken in from new, this is the first time that this has happened to me. That said, with just under 2500 miles on my GR Corolla I'm already planning out the clutch replacement. This my daily driver and is not an autox/track car but is my daily driver and 'light fun' weekend car, as such replacing the clutch (and likely flywheel) is borderline a requirement for me. I'm debating between a Clutch Masters or Spec (both Stage 1) and the Clutch Masters steel flywheel.
@@happyhills_garage The cost factor alone would put me in the same camp. And then I recalled a video that I saw a bit ago and this is likely the route I will go. This negates the needing to replace the flywheel whatsoever - this kit bolts onto the flywheel but doesn't make contact with the flywheel surface at all. Win win! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ehnn8IEBLWI.html
In all fairness, this is a known issue on SOME GRs. One thing to always keep in mind that pegging the RL in 1st and 2nd is never a good practice ESP with AWD engaged.
The redline is there to prevent damaging a motor and also has no more of an effect on the clutch than normal use/track use. Granted, if you are on the limiter for more than, let's say, 10 seconds constantly, then it might start adversely affecting your valves. But it will take a lot to even begin affecting the motor like that. Also, this being a "known" issue on "some" GRs is still a major cause for concern regardless of how many have it. Especially when you do some research and see that it has been, and still is, happening to the Yaris' as well.
The pressure plate chunked off parts are just "casting defects" from the manufacturing process. Lots of clutch dust will cause a slipping clutch. I took apart my high mileage clutch and saw the disk and flywheel looked fine but it was packed with dust. It was probably clamping the clutch against dust.
After seeing how much dust there was, and that chunk, I was definitely thinking the same thing about whether the chunked off piece, or the dust, helped to overheat the parts.
This, Toyota seems to have added a system to the clutch assembly that adjusts and tries to create constant pressure throughout the wear cycle of the clutch disc. It’s possible it’s over pushing, creating way too much dust, and then trying to bite into the dust and causing the slip. The clutch itself actually looked fine but that heat cycling marks on the throw out plate is definitely odd.
@@happyhills_garage its the Clutch Pressure plate that has a one way latch mechanism. As the Clutch Disk wears thinner and thinner the Pressure plate moves a small amount to take up that gap. It could also be that when the pressure plate is maxed out with the amount of self adjustment it can do + the clutch disk is thinned out that the clamping force reduces and slip occurs . Luk is a brand of Dual Mass flywheel and self adjusting clutch pressure plate manufacture. They make a lot of the industry parts. The other one is Sachs.
My clutch seems to slip only when I’m banging through the gears extra fast. When I give it a moment it grabs. I’m scratching my head over it. I got fbo with jb4
I have a slight hesitation in acceleration between gears as well. I don’t think it’s slippage cause then the rpm’s would shoot up. I don’t know if these have clutch delay valves but that’s what it feels like. Feels like it’s delaying the engagement of the clutch. It’s annoying on a performance car when you are trying to bang gears and get the most out of the car. My modified Mustang GT has savage shifts, this not so much. lol
@@BlackWater6937 my rpms do shoot up by a couple k. But I can launch the car and grabs immediately. Wot in any gear and it grabs. So it’s not slipping in any other situation than ripping the gears fast. I’m a tech for BMW. I’ve had a bunch of performance cars in the past but this is the first time I’ve encountered this. Our bmw master tech in the shop doesn’t seem to have any idea either. It’s also done this for the past 5k miles. If the clutch were on its way out then it’d definitely be beat by now I’d think.
i have a gr corolla, my take is that most people who have one, don't know how to drive it properly... also i have a hard time accepting most who own one took it easy on the car until the break in period was over, 500 miles or 1000kms...
if you want to improve your chances of getting reimbursed by Toyota for your clutch I would recommend contacting Scotty Kilmer and telling him about it as he will put them on blast as he has stated that he has done that already with many of his customers in his videos
Not sure how many awd cars you’ve had before but launching in an AWD car takes a bigger strain on the clutch compared to front/rear wheel cars. Please consider running a twin disc for your next clutch if you’re going to be tracking the car often.
I am aware that an AWD car puts more load on the clutch, and driveline in general, but considering that the only time I ever launched the car was a few times during the ProSolo, the clutch, and ESPECIALLY the pressure plate, should absolutely not be looking or breaking down like that. Unfortunately, I can't swap to a better clutch to stay in line with the SCCA Street class rules, otherwise I would upgrade to a twin disk and a better pressure plate as well.
Maybe you shift too fast? The gear ratios on the GRC are not conducive for fast shifts. First through third have pretty big gaps between gears. I am not saying anyone is wrong but the consequence of forcing fast shifts or over driving the transmission is a lot of slippage.
It's definitely a possibility I guess, but very unlikely considering how infrequently I shift gears quickly. The gears are shorter in the GR, yeah, but I wouldn't think that would mean you need to slow your shifts necessarily. Overdriving the transmission sounds very hard to do as well. I could see over revving, but I've never done that when down shifting; iMT also helps to mitigate that. Unless you're flat foot shifting, I see it being very difficult to shift overly quick, especially with how strong the transmissions are(or should be) these days.
They have never gone for near as much as those cars, at least not the msrp. If you are talking about the markup costs, than yeah, it is straight bullshit what they are going for lol. I bought mine at msrp, but a good majority of dealers were/are marking them up. The GR Corolla's start at 36k
