GR86 Oil Accumulator Setup & Testing 

Great to hear that! This is a rather less physical installation but more thinking and caution :)

Yes this one is on/off. I found I only need to turn it on on the outlap and turn it off on the in-lap. On the street it's always off

@@TrackandBuild Perfect, that was my plan as well. Out lap turn on, cool down lap turn off 🤘

@@TrackandBuild Correct me if I'm wrong, but the valve is not an on/off "shutoff valve" like a ball valve, it's a reversing one-way check valve. So in the 'off' position, oil can flow from the engine to the accumulator, but not out, and in the on position, oil can flow out of the accumulator, but not back in. That's why you have to turn it on during the out lap, so the oil doesn't all flow out at low idle pressure.

@@brianb2376 correction is when it's on, oil flows both ways; when is off, oil flows only one way (from engine to the accumulator)

no i don't have check valve. it's installed to the engine block directly per instruction. Moroso has thicker wall but yes the relief valve might be a benefit assuming it's working properly.

they are the same thing

@@KarlKondor I actually like his setup better after researching it. The accusump kit only has a manual valve where his has the electronic one with a switch.

they are functionally the same. The difference is The Moroso one has thicker wall and the accusump has a oil side relief valve

@@TrackandBuild good to know! Do you have links for all the parts you used?

There's no data so far suggesting RTV is a major issue. I have done that test myself before/after removing RTV. No difference in oil pressure

@fallenstatus@@TrackandBuild RTV is not really a problem captured in your oil strainer/pickup, however its a symptom of a larger risk that RTV can clog parts of your oil gallery and reduce the ability of the engine to effectively oil itself. Best to remove the RTV from the pickup however, as overtime thin stretched out pieces can migrate past the strainer.

The accumulator will take about 0.7qt oil while charged at 80psi with an extra air preload of 30psi. Yes it will charge when the valve is off

30psi for faster oil discharging

@@TrackandBuild just ordered my kit. Thanks for the video!

Weight, complexity.

main cons from my eyes is this will add more complexity to the system, i.e. more failure points

Seriously. Wish they could have worked with Honda on this motor instead.

at this price, I won't complain anything about this car even with the oiling issue (it's an issue in general for all cars with wet sump). And it already gave me 40+ trouble free track days and still holds up very well!

@@TrackandBuild not all wet sump cars, only boxer engines are specifically affected.

@@RohanSanjith that's true. and we know what next level up is for boxer engines:)

@@RohanSanjith What would you buy? As a total package for the price (even with the cost to install the accumulator/accusump), this platform is still very good. An ND2 is comparable on the track but too small for many with a helmet and not very livable on the street. Seems short-sighted to discount the platform for an issue with a sub-500$ + afternoon fix (if this does end up being the fix). Not to mention almost every platform needs mods to make track-ready/reliable. Oil starvation in particular is not at all only a boxer engine issue, as many street cars aren't designed for hard G cornering. If you look it up you can find oil starvation and baffle-pan/accusump discussions for many other platforms (quick search found K20a, mr2 spyder, BMW E30, Fiat 124, Corvette, Mustang, Mini Cooper, GTI, 370z)

@@RohanSanjith Lots of production cars have oil pressure issues on track - the g-forces when turning, braking and accelerating on cars hitting over 1g create situations in the pickup where its pulling air instead of oil. This is not just a boxer engine issue, however boxer engines are more sensitive to low pressure events in high-g corners.