I have the same stove. I was going to use it in my mini cabin but used it in my barn a few weeks while I done some trial and error fabrication. The changes I made.. cut a large 2in x 5in air vent and made a metal slide doors for it to adjust air flow. Then cut another in the top of the door where the upper holes are. Faber a door for it as well. This hole is for more air as the fire is being built plus when it's up to temp you can open it and it allows more air in to draw the smoke out before I open the door to add more wood. Another was I cut the top cap vent holes larger as the half inch holes will clog with creosote over time. I cut 3in x 3in holes in it all around it then welded a top plate that extends over the pipe so rain can't come in... I also reversed the pipes. Meaning instead of the pipes sliding down over the others and down on the neck of the stove. I made them slide down in them so anything that does drain down the pipe by chance funnels in to the stove and not down the out side of the pipe... I also welded tabs to the bottom of the legs. This allowed me to fasten it down where I installed it. This allowed you to use proper pressure on the door latch spring with out the stove moving. I know. Seems like a lot of work but. 100$ for it and maybe 3 hrs work and it is safe and can be used easily.
If you are retiring it I would like to hav withe it! I have played with cast iron a bit and I could give a tip on the rust. Clean it with a 50/50 water and vinegar solution. Then coat the box with crisco top to bottom. Start a good fire in the box and let it burn until the crisco stops smoking. Then do that again until you get 3 good coats of crisco cooked on to it. You can leave it in the rain and it won't rust. Just repeat that around once a year or as needed. It will shine up and you will like it again!
I just got mine today. The spring is kind of stiff for this stove, but I would suggest putting some bricks 🧱 or stones behind it so it doesn’t move around. It’s probably that piece of would you placed under it that’s causing it to slide. Anyway, for the price it’s hard to complain about it too much. Good luck!
Mine works just fine , I just filed the latch a little and it closes just fine, getting a grip on it I always use stove gloves myself, I don't have an issue with rust myself, or creosote but I don't burn soft wood that's a rookie mistake, and it's easy to take several miles into the bush , most of us hot tenters use a snow sled and tubs to transport our gear .
I have another comment to add to my previous comment. It may be that you have to re-install a new door seal each and every year. The high temperatures of these stoves can easily cause the door seals to come off. The size of the firebox on my Guide Gear large wood stove is kinda big. You can put some large logs of wood inside the firebox. My best advice is that you keep plenty of door seal and the glue to hold it on, on hand. I really appreciate your like. Thanks.
I personally like it I use mine in a 13'×10' ft coleman tent but modified mine, I deleted the door gaskets, enlarged the vent holes and also modified the stove as to flip the pipes the correct way as to not have any creosote run down the pipe. Also I did opt for the accessory kit and two extra pipe sections but I do not use the spark arrestor as it actually causes holes in the tent. Still planning on buying a winnerwell large nomad stove with the pipe oven.
Love this stove use mine nonstop, just ignore that piece of fiberglass around the door it's unnecessary , you just can't let it sit outside in the weather it's not really for that unless you like rust , and the door just needs adjusted, and the handle is simple,you just have to learn how to do it correctly lol,I know people are quick to whine if it doesn't do it for you , you don't really need to put anything under that stove , and the creosote is caused by burning soft wood, never burn soft wood. And you have the handle on completely upside down lol , as for it warping the top that's what happens when you use soft wood. Rookie mistakes get you hurt
The seal on the door comes off very easily. Go to Lowe’s and get a door seal and the glue to secure the seal to the door. Not too expensive. My door latch works just fine on the large Guide Gear stove.
I just order one of these. Saw on another RU-vid video to solve the door issue you have to grind out a half moon about the size of a half dime on the stove front where the latch grabs to prevent the binding.
I have the small one in my rv 3rd year using it and the big one in my mobile home I cut the spring on the big one and the door worked well I use a hand held torch with door closed put put torch in vent hole to light works great have no issues with either one
Seriously interested in a stove, I like the idea of the warmth and the cookability on top of the stove. Thanks for this, I'd like to try an affordable version before going for a pocket busting one. ATB
You’re welcome! I felt the same way, I went with this stove first to make sure that I liked it and then I pulled the trigger on a titanium stove the next year
I bought the same stove a few years ago. The fire would go out with the door shut even with the damper and draft wide open. I almost gave it away. But it's been sitting out in my garage and I think I'll make the holes in the door bigger and see if that works. It worked pretty good with the door slightly open. But I want to have the door closed.
Same! There have been a lot of people commenting about how they’ve made modifications to the stove to make it work better, so you may be able the breath new life into it!
Well alittle adjustment would have fixed that door. So that's not a problem. And it's known some adjustments would be necessary. Once you get the stove tuned in, I think it would be fine.
When full of wood, how long does it stay lit roughly? I know type of wood and how the holes are open or not is important but I just got mine and will use it for a greenhouse on the few cold nights a year we get
@@AdventuresinJennyland I gave mine a test and it stayed hot for 2.5 to 3 hours, need to test again with a thermometer, good enough with a electric heater backup for my needs
Jenny might try to file that door latch down a little Beware of ANY foldable stove They are known to burn hot and fast with no way to slow the burn for sleep time
By the looks of it you did not pre burn it and then let it cool fully and shift with the door closed because my stove works great three times I lit a good fire in it before I took it into the field and let it cool overnight no opening the door or any kind of adjustments
The proper way to open a wood stove door while operating. 1. Open the damper in the flue pipe wide open. 2. Open the draft in the door all the way open. 3. Unliatch the door about an inch and allow a moment for the fire/coals to revive with Oxygen 4. Continue opening the door fully to add fuel.
And also when I do stoke the fire I'll put the poker through the vent holes to keep from opening the door as well I cut the end off the piece that looks like a ho works well
This stove is SUPER dangerous. This stove can actually kill you. It almost got me. The chimney sections are upside down, the bell end is facing down, it needs to face up, the same as it does on real stove pipe sold anywhere in America. Because the bell is facing down, any wood that is not cured will release enough pitch that it will run back down the chimney and out those wrongly faced bell ends in big thick molasses like streams that then slide over the burn box and catch fire, igniting the pool of pitch up the chimney and down to the floor. The smoke that is released when that stuff burns is also horrible. Lucky that though, its what woke me up in time to not die. Please please be aware of this, and find a better chimney. I simply cut the hole to 4 inch and bought type B double walled pipe, worked fine after that.
