The main reason your temperature went high in the short time of the test is that the setup had very little water and therefore the cooling effect of this small volume of water was not sufficient. Also you were recirculating that small volume. In a normal well installation the water from the well continually flows over the motor on it's way to the pump intake while the output of the pump leaves the well. A mistake some people have made is installing that type of pump into a cistern or pond where there is no well casing around the pump. This will also shorten pump life because the intake water is not forced to flow over the motor. (the motor is the bottom half of the pump and the intake is located at the area between the motor and the pump which is the upper half of the unit) The well casing in a normal installation performs an essential function in cooling the motor. All that being said the rest of your assessment is accurate.
I love 1/4 turn handles. I have them on my water and as door handles. I think this is the one case where a screw valve would suit you better. (in your well-testing apparatus from 2 years ago)
I purchased and installed one a year ago. 4 inch, 2 wire, 120 v. In a 30 ft. well. Slowly stopped working in about one year. I just purchased a little giant at Menards for a little over $400. The Hallmark is cheap. A little more than $100 bucks. But it's the shortest life of a submersible pump I ever installed.
Have one is an irrigation pump driving directly out of the lake. Works absolutely perfect for what I needed to do. Every application needs a $600 pump. But some applications do
I bought the 220 V, 2hp, 400-foot head version of this pump and the first one was defective out of the box barely putting up 20 percent of the specs, installed the replacement that is working close to spec but still underperforming. Would have been great to have seen this test prior to my purchase, if so I would not have installed it. Oh well, such is life.
Good that you attempted this "honest" review. Your bottom line "just sad" judgment is ok, they work, but... they're not going to last, they get "hot," and you don't care how cheap they are.... (as in not worth the time and expense of hiring somehow to install) You presume your customers/viewers "don't care" either if they have to pay five times more for alternative pumps (or more). In my case, I have no trouble installing a 75' depth pump, etc. (and yes, have learned much from your other videos) What would be even more interesting would be for you to do a comparative videos, (not just saying you've done so) -- with the same "honest" tests of the box-store pumps. (most of them are now made in china too -- even while still costing 4x-5x more... though HD & Lowes try to hide origin) Do you dare? (ps, and when you do, consider that I can just as easily (and vaguely as you did) cite unhappy reviews on the L's brand complaining of those pumps dying day after the warranty ended. (and oh by the way, how about that Lowe's pump warranties are now also only 1 year.... just like Hallmark & the other China pumps)
Excellent video. Can you perform the same tests using top performing pump brands (grundfos, Gould's, Franklin)? Very curious how those brands perform against advertised amp and max head ratings. Keep up the great work. Thanks
I've tested the brands you mentioned. All are within spec as they are labeled & can build 150 to 210 psi . Lower GPM pumps can build Alot of psi. High flow pump can't.
@@connievanscyoc6459 I've only done videos on these pumps & Vevor brand pumps. More expensive pumps can build 140-210 psi. I've tested before, just didn't record. I'll make a Video doing them soon though
@@h2omechanicWhat about the tractor supply Countyline 10gpm models (Made in USA by Pentair). A 1HP pump runs $560 before tax and comes with a 3 year no hassle warranty. Do these compare with Red Lion and Franklin Electric, etc model pumps? Thanks for your time.
@darkknightstacker5420 decent motor, but probably a budget pump section. A 10+ year worthy pump will cost around $750-$999. Cheaper pump are just plastic internals. If you set them shallow, they live longer. If you Max it out, I typically see them die at 5-6 years. (Which is double the warranty) our Franklin pumps have a 5 year warranty
Considered buying one but opted to kick out the $525 for a Pentair Sta-Rite unit instead to replace an older Franklin (Myers Predator) pump. I needed a 1hp capable of at least 20gpm in a 70ft well to run irrigation on a 1.5 acre yard. Pump is sitting at @ 40ft deep. So far no complaints. My advice... spend the extra on quality.
@@h2omechanic I got one of these cheap pumps but I only want to move water from one tank to another about 30 to 40' higher for a rain water system do you think it is worth it for that?
I assume a one inch plastic pipe is more than an inch due to wall thickness, what is the size hose clamps needed? what do you buy? After watching a number of your excellent instructive videos, I've decided to change out a bad pump and set up, myself, need to get all parts need, ahead of time, if possible.
I installed the Hallmark.4" model 1 HP 230V, submersed it approx 180 feet into a 200 ft deep 6" diameter well and it satisfied the 40/60 pressure switch installed inline with a 10 gallon pressure tank. Have been running this to supply my irrigation system. It just recently failed but I got just 5 years out of it. I don't understand your pressure calculations because mine was cutting the pressure switch off at 60 psi. I was planning on getting the same Hallmark pump again figuring even if I only get another 5 years it's worth the massive savings at only $150 with sales tax. I didn't put the extra external check valve on last time. Could this be the cause of the puml failing 'prematurely'? I will add the recommended extra check valve this time.
Great videos information is going to help me have an understanding what to expect when my son has his well drilled in Tennessee unfortunately his well is next to a partial of land that a builder bought and it happens to be on his property and he will be keeping it and lawyer said he checked and unfortunately my son has to pay for a new well. I will use your info that you recommend Wish you were located in Tennessee I would definitely have you do the well👍keep posting great videos
Hey Philip, awesome informative videos I came across them doing some research and looking for some advice/information/help working on my well system. I sent you an email to the one I found on here describing hopefully in enough detail about my issues. Anything at this point in my situation would be helpful, thank you. Again great informational videos, they made me more confidant to commit to working on my well system and not get over whelmed.
THANKS FOR A GREAT REVIEW, I AMLOOKING FO R A WELL PUMP THAT IS ABOUT 80 FEET DEEP. FOR A LITTLE HOUSE. i WOULD PREFERE A 110 VOLT BECAUSE THECABIN IS OFF GRID.
A.Y. McDonald 23050J2A Stainless Steel Pump & Motor 5 GPM 0.5 HP 115V 2 I bought this pump for my dad he had some company at his home while he was gone and it stopped working. Has a 30/50 pressure switch. Well has a static water level of 50' and a depth of 164'. I set the pump around 155' from the bottom. It was a lil murky from times. Didn't know what the well would produce, so that's why I set it so deep and and only a 5gpm pump. It's supplying only one shower and one kitchen sink and one toilet. Has a new 30gal pressure tank. New stainless check valve directly on top of the new pump. Goes from 1.25" check valve to 1" 250 psi poly pipe. It's all new. I spent a lot of money on this. My dad said the propellers looked melted like candle wax? Motor runs pump does not. Oh it has brand new jacketed 12/2 wire. Would it be worth buying and pump and keep that motor? I think they left his garden hose on trying to clear up the water and burnt the pump up? I should have never put a garden hose fitting on his pressure tank.
Unfortunately with plastic impellers, he's correct. They were melted due to heat. If its not 2 years old warranty can cover it. You might can find a pump head for your motor. I'd recommend a 10gpm pump end. Bc a 5gpm is built for depth and has tighter tolerances thus y it burned up. It just ran dry way way too long & plastic impellers just couldn't take it.
@@h2omechanic Thank you for the quick response. I bought it new in the box off ebay for like 360 bucks. It was a steal at that price. Pretty sure that guy just found it left over. In his home or something. Probably no warranty like that? You could tell it never been in water, and the wires never been messed with.
I will say this, 23050j2a serial # really seems like a 240v pump to me. If you truly have a 240v pump & its wired to 120v, that could be the root of your problem. It may work, but it'll overheat or pop a breaker. So keep that in mind. A quick test would be to hook it up to a 240v breaker and see if the system acts normal.
My pump is tripping a 30 amp 120 volt breaker randomly. One to three times daily maybe 5 days a week. Resetting the breaker instantly restores water and does not trip the breaker instantly. I replaced the breaker with no result. The pump is 12 years old and my next as I see it is to pull the pump and replace unless I find damage to the electrical supply line in the well. First, would you recommend converting to a 230 volt for longevity and second what brand pump do you recommend because this video convinces me that this brand is not for me. Thanks for the great video.
When I bought this house, it had a 2HP Franklin/Myers down 60 feet in my ( 10" ) well. (My well used to have a turban pumping water to 2 square miles of orange groves).. The property is 1/2 acre and has 3 zones, but when I bought this place all three zones were tied as one... Well, the old system was over 20 years old and had an overheating issue. (I still have the pump)... It would run for about 5 minutes and shut off. Wait 5 minutes and push the reset and you would get another 5 minutes.. So, not having a clue what was in the well or really anything about it, I pulled 60 plus feet of iron pipe with a double elbow at every joint.. (Don't ask, I have no clue).. One I had the pump on the ground I immediately figured out a big issue.. It had a 1 HP control box. So I thought that was probably the main issue, but over time some other well people told me it was overheating due to the 4" pump not being shrouded in the 10" casing. But they all agreed the 1 HP controller was also an issue.. Well, I wrecked my back years ago and there is no way I could afford the well guys prices and three of them were using CHINA pumps!! Anyway, the next issue I have is no one wants to sell me the parts to drop a new pump in myself!! Now, especially with covid, prices are crazy!!! So it is time to go back to an in well submersible and I am hoping you can steer me to the right system. I'm thinking 1 HP/30 -35 GPM, but I don't want some pile of crap that I will need to pull out again in a few weeks or months... PLEASE HELP!!!!
Wow, just getting ready to changeine put after 26 yrs of service. It's still working as it should but getting ready to retire and don't want unforeseen problems. I think it's a Gould pump 3/4 HP. Anyways great content. Ty
I notice in your videos the well casings appear to be PVC pipe I have never seen anything in my area other than steel casing. Does that vary from region to region and also what schedule PVC is commonly used? When you say water level do you mean the elevation of water in the well or the elevation of the pump in the well? These may seem like stupid questions but I am just trying to learn for myself
what would happen with that 3 inch with the perforations in that casting if it failed and you went to lift the pump and you brought up the top half and the bottom half stayed in the well ? I don't know anybody skinny enough to go down there and get it !
Fantastic video one of the best. maybe you can give me some advice if you have time, I'm going to have to replace my pump so I have been looking and pricing I look at that first pump you did and I'm glad I saw your video before I made a costly mistake. I was using my hose wetting down the dust and after maybe 20-30mins my hose pressure drop to almost nothing it was only coming out of the nozzle 3' I thought my well was drying up. I stop using the water came inside for an hour then went to check the pump and it was still running so I shut off the power and didn't turn it back on till 20 hours later and check the pump and it was off after filling my tank. So I had a pump guy come and check my well here what I can tell you, I have a 6"casing running an unknown pump HP it's a 230v 2wire pump, the water level is at 125' the pump depth is unknown the well is believed 200' at first he said it was over 400' but I told him I'm pretty sure it wasn't that deep and he rechecked it and that's when he said 200' so he said i have 75' of water and we figure the pump is going out it's about 40 years of use and the maybe the pump is close to the static water level. So I need a new pump and maybe drop the pump down to 180' that would be 20' from the bottom of the well. Is this a good depth? what would you advise this depth? and what size pump would you advise at this depth? I was looking at a 2HP that said it was good from 200-400' & 33 GPM but as your video showed you can't trust the specs. I look at Lowes and home depot, amazon, Granger's prices range from 185.00 to 1200.00 I'm on SSDI income only so money is tight, and I'm only going to be able to do this once. I was told about 4 years ago that it would cost about 3500.00 to pull and replace the pump. I hope you can advise me... Before I saw your video I wonder how I could check out the pump before installing it underground and you just showed me, Thank you
Just remove the old pump & replace it with the same size unit that was removed. No need for over kill. I'd use a 3/4hp motor and either a 5 or a 7 GPM pump end. Id estimate $1800 to swap everything out and replace it. But it could range to 3500 if they need a pump crane
Hello! First off, Very informative videos on these pumps. I’ve watched both your videos where you have tested the Vevor and the Hallmark “budget” pumps. In this video you mentioned you would not recommend this hallmark pump. I’ve looked through your channel and couldn’t see a video we’re you tested your recommended pumps. I’m in the market to replace my pump so I’m Just curious what brand pump your sell/recommended to your customer?
H2o mechanic. Thks for your videos, I just subscribed. Please give a recommendation for my residential pump replacement. I had my 1 hp Grundfos fail today after 16 years. The well is 390ft. Well produces 2.5gals/min, fills to 50ft from surface. The well driller advised me to go back with the newest Grundfos 10SQ15-330. This unit has a soft start. This pump is 1 1/2 hp. Its cost is $1100 - 1400. What's your thought on Grundfos. Which brand do you recommend?
I have a 220 foot well with a 6" casing, static water around 25 feet. I'd like to get about 20gpm and run a pressure tank at 40-60psi. Do you have any pumps you'd recommend? Thanks so much for a great review.
I'm a bit surprised that you seem surprised by the amount of pressure it builds... it says right on the box that it is capable of only 207 feet of maximum head pressure... that's just 89psi... so it's doing exactly what it said it would... yes, these are not the most efficient pumps at creating pressure, but for the price it would take a long time for the cost of electricity to make up the cost difference between a Grundfos and this.. Plus my well depth is only 25feet.. so I only need 10 PSI for the water head, and the rest is free for system use... definitely enough to satisfy the pressure switch, so at that price, seems good to me...
@@Eastbaypisces yup.. i own one... Been working hard daily for over a year now without any issues... I get lots of pressure from it and great flow rates... I've been 100% happy with it.
Thank you for doing these tests. Can you recommend a pump for me. Of course cost is a big factor. 400ft down for pump. 4 inch pump 2 wire. Can you offer a good cheap one. Brand, size etc. From you or a link. Sorry to ask. But I'm limited on resources. Thank you again
Got a pump that runs constant. I changed the pressure switch and check valve. Pressure tank does not eject water thru the schraderer. Pump is drawing 238 volts @ the pressure switch. I'm kind of stumped here h20 mechanic??????? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
You need to pull the pump, highly likely you have a cracked fitting connecting pump to pipe. Or pump center shaft is broken. Where did you install/replace a check valve at? How deep is the pump. Sometimes pipe will split down the well too. Or a big leak in the yard that you haven't recognized taking away the water
@@h2omechanic thanks 👍 for your input. You are very knowledgeable. I found the problem. With your help, and a couple other you tube vids It was underground. To much bullshit to list. But thanks 👍 h20 mechanic, for pointing me right
you should use the proper calculation of 0.433 psi a foot, it's close I realize, but when you start getting into the hundreds of feet of head pressure it starts to make a big difference... oh... and the heat is a product of the electrical draw... if you have ANY pump drawing 600watts, you effectively have a 600 watt heating element... every drop of energy you put into any system eventually becomes heat... even the energy that is contained in the circulating water, the kinetic energy contained in the flow eventually becomes random, which is basically what heat is... but most of that heat is being generated by the work required to generate pressure.... the more pressure you generate, the more energy if required, the more heat is produced... anyway, we can ignore all that and just get a close approximation to how much you will heat up the water in your set up by multiplying your wattage draw by 3.41 BTU/h..... So assuming 600 watts, you are applying 2,046 BTU/h of heat to that water.. i don't know what your water volume is, but it really doesn't look like a lot... for reference, The definition of a BTU (British Thermal Unit) is the amount of energy required to raise one pound/pint of 62°F water to 63°F. One gallon of water, which is the term we use to quantify water, weighs 8.33 pounds. So to raise one gallon of water one degree Fahrenheit, you need just 8.33 BTUs. Easy to see why it got so hot soo fast.. this is a thermodynamics issue, not an issue with the pumps.
I installed one of these in August 2022 and it failed March 2024. After removal I pulled the end cap and removed the seal, water drained from the motor along with oil. Shorted out the motor. Getting a better pump for replacement. Its heavy work to R&R pump from 135' and 70 years old doesn't help. Just saying
The box says its 230v. The pump came with two wires and a ground, that to me indicates its 120v. I bought Hallmark Industries MA0459X-14A. Can someone tell me if this is actually 230v or 220v. Ive not installed yet.
@fernando651 that's a decent pump from the looks of it online. It just depends on your budget & the depth you plan on setting the pump. Expect to spend $550 to 750 of a really good 4" pump. Typically it's good if the pump has a Franklin Electric motor on it. A 8gpm 1/2hp is still a 100ft Deep pump.
@@h2omechanic yes it was $800+ from the store but I got it from fb market locally for $375. I'm going to covert from jet pump to submersible this weekend. The original jet pump is 1hp and uses two lines to well. Not sure how deep the well is, hopefully this aermotor is a good match.. I do believe it has a Franklin motor, it had a Franklin sticker in the box.
@@h2omechanic I have never heard of that pump name before. How can I contact you. I use a Franklin motor 1 HP Motor 230 vac 3 wire motor with a equipment ground, so it has 4 wires in total. I have used that name brand for 40 years. The name of the pump is Sta-Rite or. Gould. But I always used the Franklin Motor. But these motors are very costly now. That is why I was interested in the motor and pump you were using. That is a Great Test you performed.
This seems to be a not very well thought out test tbh. A pump would pump fresh cold water in almost all circumstances. Putting water (or anything) under pressure causes heat. Its normal to heat up and this was designed to run with cooler water. Pumps are rated at a head pressure most times, not head pressure + what you run your system at. If you want 100psi of head pressure plus 50PSI for the system its up to YOU to buy a 150psi rated unit. What is this pump rated at (max) on PSI and flow at that PSI? That would give a good indication of its "performance". The rated AMP's though should be fairly close, but is the rated at idle or full psi (you don't state it)? Overall these are cheap pumps, you want a $600 pump I guess you should buy one. Just my .02cts
@@h2omechanic Thank you so much for your reply , i have an underground water tank just about 10 ft deep and a Garden 100ft away and i want to use Micro Sprinklers can you recommend the best type of submersible pump Specs Please . or if the model and model number of it
you have to fully submerge it to get true pressure detail submeribles can cavitate 3 feet above the pump thus being said your getting partial air mixture not being true output pressure capabilities
Hey, I appreciate your video! I was thinking this pump was too good to be true. Can you suggest a pump for me? Here's my scenario: I have a 5"well casing (it's very old and I'm told a 4" pump will be risky because it may get stuck) so I'm looking for a 3" submersible pump. The well is about 150 feet deep. Water level is only about 20 feet down from ground level. Currently there is an old Jet pump feeding a giant (200 gallon) galvanized pressure tank from the 40s. I want to replace the pressure tank and pump. We are a family of 6. What would you recommend for a pump and pressure tank size? Thanks so much
Buy a Grundfos SQ 3" submersible pump, 10 gpm. For the tank, buy a 20 gallon bladder tank & a 40/60 pressure switch. Use all brass fittings in the important areas. Grundfos pumps are like a Cadillac. But the life span is amazing and great warranty .
@@h2omechanic thanks for the super quick reply. I believe you're right, the grundfos are the priciest... But like you said some of the best pumps out there. What could you recommend for a while house filter system? Also, is there any benefit to buying a bigger pressure tank? Say, something like a 40 or 50 gallon one?
buddy has one of these in his well 440ft deep it's a 2hp 240v and has 3 check valves in line pushing about 20gpm and works amazingly well. also i came across a myers rustler n1020r someone had put in a well that was the same depth 440ft of sch 80 that we pulled out it was a 1 hp and had multiple issues have you ever dealt with that pump? Apparently it worked for years for them and it's a 20gpm.
"There isn't anything a man can't make a little worse, and sell a little cheaper. And those who buy based upon price alone are this man's rightful prey."
see synonym at "unilever" or "unilevered" -- or how a 3 lb tin of ground coffe became just 22 oz.... or how a 1/2 gallon of "all natural" Breyers ice cream became 48 ounces of all sorts of "natural" flavors. Oh, but wait, there's less!
I have Gould pump 25gph 1 hp 220v. It guit & l need to replace it. A new gould is $1200 to 1900. Can you recommend a more affordable pump. My well is 70 ft deep.
There's no way that Pump can stay cool you don't have enough water. You're using that tiny bit of water to try to cool that pump. Of course it's gonna heat up.
Yes, & if you run a well dry, the pump will create that much heat in the well. On a 4" screen well the heat can make the pvc screen melt & collapse. I tested name brand pumps and they took 20+ minutes to get hot. This did it in 5 minutes
MY UPPER lawn hydrant is 25-30 feet higher than well @ ground level 40 60 switch. so I should start thinking about toting water up there to water apple trees or whatever I'm doing up there (nothern tool sprayer gas and 12v battery). Our pump motor has worked since mid 80's. mistakes along the way hubris. burn that well pump out, I'm in @#$%) city.
That's a horrible test rig. those pumps can't be sucking air bubbles for a proper test. you should bury a 6 inch pipe 10 feet into the ground, or use a second floor. fill the pipe to the top with water, pump goes to the bottom. adding 11 or 12 feet of head for the valve setup will give you a better reading.
