Great video. You did a good job with all the tips about how to mark things so they go back together in the right places. Also thanks for the idea about painting the grease on the bearings and races. I recently (about 3 years ago LOL) rebuilt my rotor, an Aliance 73HD and had fun keeping all those bearings from jumping ship. It did not have the split race to capture them. Also had fun finger-painting the bearings and races LOL. The thrust bearing was a lot easier to clean and lube. Very good job on the video. Thank you.73 DE K7RMJ Frank
Nice video.... I have found that you really don't need to mark anything for disassembly eassembly. The ring gear can even go in at random position so long as it has the three protrusions facing up and so long as the three catches in the upper bell housing mate with the three protrusions on the top of the ring gear, and even that orientation does not matter, so long as the protrusions ride inside the catches for them, no other attention is needed. You don't even need to insure the wiper lines up "correctly" with the protrusion in the top of the inside of the bell housing. The wiper is designed so if you reassemble it in the wrong position as you fully turn the rotor one direction and then fully turn it the other direction from limit switch stop to stop the wiper will auto correct itself and seat into the bell housing where it belongs. If you look at the wiper assembly you will notice both outer edges are ramped so it self aligns. It's really a great design. I have had several of these apart and other than aligning the three catches in the housing with the protrusions on the ring gear I pay no attention at all to any kind of alignment, and I have never had a problem with them. Try it. you will see what I mean... When you bench test after reassembly just cycle fully in both directions, you will realize everything works just fine.
Hi Kevin, Nice RU-vid on this subject. I just picked up an old Cornell-Dubilier AR-33 from a friend that tried to sell it on eBay and flopped - he wanted $100. It probably needs a complete cleaning and lubrication - I've yet to fire it up. I just wondered if you recognized the make and model. I can't imagine there are too many variants of these rotors. Any advise is appreciated. Plan to fire it up in the next few days and then break into it for maintenance . BTW like your RU-vids on loop antennas and I'm jealous of your RV travels that I assume you're still on even during COVID-19. 73 - Mike AJ6GK
I know this is late as I just found this video, June 26 2018, but should you have pulled the pot and put some good oil on the top motor bearing? I know it's a pain to get to the bottom one. Maybe a long needle on a needle oiler would be able to get to the bottom bearing. Also just as a reminder, be sure to use grease that is good in cold weather down to -30F or better.
@@loughkb I have a Channel Master 9510A three wire controller. The setting dial and the antenna pointer mechanisms seem to have locked together. When unplugged, sometimes I can get the dial to turn freely but when I plug it back in the pointer does not catch up to the dial position. It looks as the though the top may pop off as there are no screws underneath. My antenna rotor will still turn when it gets some current from the controller so the rotor is good. I have been told that 4 wire Alliance controllers will not work with three wire Channel Master setups.
I did a search for a schematic and it was hard to find one for that specific unit. I'd open it up and clean all the contacts on the main rotating switch or potentiometer. Also, open up the rotor itself and clean the variable resistor or rheostat used to sens it's position. While you have it open, check the bearings and grease it up as needed. Try it again once things have been cleaned. Three, four, six, or more, the controllers wiring scheme should match the rotor, I'm pretty sure.
@@loughkb I'm a little late on this one, but I have a couple of antenna rotators that have failed. Namely the CM9521A both failed in the first year. My old Radio Shack one that is at least 25 years old and another, I'll have to get a photo, looks similar to the one you rebuilt. Maybe you would like to rebuild those?
Norm's Rotor Service has bought all parts, all materials, and all technical data from Alliance. NRS now owns all rights to and a complete parts inventory for the HD-73 and U100/U110 series rotors and control boxes.
Hm...seems to me the blade (brake wedge) is pulled OUT (locked) by sprigs. That you are able to so freely pull and push the blade implies the springs are broken.
This was not a very well done help video. The presenter skipped too many steps of disassembly/assembly to be clear on all aspects. Also, it appears that he installed his lower bearing race upside-down. the bearings should have been away from view so that they contact the rotator base to sustain the weight of the entire load((towards the mast mount).
hey all, i just took my rotor apart to replace the 8 connector on the bottom and see that there is every other bearing missing some retard took it apart and lost allot of bearings and instead of buying $5 in bearings and they just put it back together. it has worked fine for 7 years so is there any reason to be worried about the missing bearings?
Since they bear the load, I'd expect shorter life with fewer of them. Also, it could affect the stability and allow a bit more 'wobble' if wind causes side to side forces on the mast.
@@loughkb yea i got hold of norm at norms rotor service and he said that is normal for that model but also said if i fill those empty slots my rotor will be able to handle a little more weight/beams so at 15 cents a piece i just got enough to replace all of them and fill all empty slots. stay safe
UPDATE.. i rebuilt my rotor and put a updated cap in the controller and tested it on the bench and it sounds like new so quite now. BUT after getting it in the tower and all hooked up and my needle doesnt move! aarrggg. does anybody have any idea where to start testing this thing? remember it is mounted inside the tower and it is a pain to pull it out. does anybody know what the voltage reading should be 1-8? 73s all
@@butterbean4195 The variable resistor rheostat in the rotor might not be making contact? It's up at the top of the assembly in the one I worked on as I remember. I don't recall the details, but somehow the wiper part of it is mechanically connected to the rotating bell housing. Maybe the wiper is not making contact with the wire winding, or the mechanical connection to the bell didn't line up and it's not rotating with the bell? Just a guess. It's been awhile since I had that one apart.
Hello, thanks for your videos its so helpful. I have inquiry; I did google research for antenna dish Azimuth/Elevation Rotator and I ended with 2 choices. i dont know what to decide. Can you please light me. 1- Spid ras/hr rotator www.rfhamdesign.com/downloads/spid-ras_hr-specifications.pdf 2- AER-5 www.cd-corp.com/eng/ama/rtt/erc5x_eng.pdf
