This is the most helpful video on YT on the correct position (5:21) of the duck head and the tire when mounting.. You saved me hours of trying to figure this part out. Thanks a million! Folks: If you're doing it right, manual tire removal and installation using the duckbill adapter should almost be as smooth as butter and it should not be a struggle.
Now if he would use the bead breaker correctly, he would be all set. @1:10 you see him pushing on the side wall of the tire, the tire should be pulled away a few inches so the wedge part of the breaker pushes on the bead and under the lip of the rim more.
Yes he did, hope others take notice. Just pointing out tire positioning. Most of these helpful videos on RU-vid start out doing it the wrong way. Happy New Year @@AR-mb3id
Although I made my own attachment, we have very similar setups..... including the bent/flimsy HF bar! Noticed that you were missing the HF anti-rotation pin; I bent & removed mine too. A couple of other things I found helpful; I bought a cheap hold-down/depressing tool which makes installation even easier. I'm currently building a centering cone, which will also hold the rim to the machine. Great video-
I love how you did not edit out the part where you were having problems. I'm glad you showed that. About 10 years ago on Craigslist somebody was giving away one of these and the motorcycle part to it for absolutely no money. Ever since I've had it I've never used it. My problem was I did not want something that big sitting in the middle of my garage floor bolted to the floor. A month or so ago I saw someone using the floor anchors like you have. It looks like it worked pretty well for you and watching this video is perfect timing I have to run to Lowe's today so I'm going to pick up some of these fasteners and try breaking down some tires. Thank you for sharing your experience with this. Do you happen to have a link to where to buy the top part of the tool? I'm really not even sure what that would be called so it wouldn't help me to Google it.
I left that part in on purpose, I try to be as real as possible. I do actually have the link for the arm www.ebay.com/itm/Manual-Tire-Changer-Swing-Arm-Mod-with-Duck-Head-Duckbill-Demount-2-Models-/373624493594?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=706-127636-26712-0 Thank you for your kind words
for others wondering about these anchors, they are known as "flush shell" anchors. if they get debris in them, blow them out with compressed air before threading in the bolts. I like them a lot for temporarily or occasionally securing things in the middle of the garage.
Helps if you put a clamp on the rim so the tire can't wiggle off just as fast as you can put it on. Also, for really stiff or reluctant tires, you have to make sure the opposite side of the tire is down in the channel so it gives enough room so the bead can fit over the rim on the other side. Sometimes a big C-clamp on the sidewall can help with that.
I just bought the duckbill and bolted it to a piece of angle iron which I then welded to a 4 foot bar. Eliminated all the extra square stock and tubing. The duckbill can now float around the rim and with 4 feet of purchase can mount the most stubborn tires.
What type/brand of tire lube did you use? I couldn't make out the brand name. I purchased a liquid version that seems to dry up before I can even start mounting. I've been looking on Amazon but most come in these large pails that would last me ten lifetimes and cost more than I'm willing to spend. I really enjoyed the video. In particular the part about placing the tire the wrong way on the duckbill. I did the same thing many many times before figuring it out.
I try to be as honest as I can even about my mistakes just in case it helps someone else out. The tire lube I use is called "Bead Don", it was about 20 bucks for the container and I'm about halfway through the container and I've mounted easily 100 tires so far.
Not bad. The trick is to keep as much of the tire bead opposite the duck in the drop center of the rim. Just wondering if you would get more leverage if you stuck the bar in the end of the square.
When you install the second bead, You need to put lube on the underside of the tire bead, where it contacts the duck head because that's where the friction occurs; not on the top surface of the tire.
Just you see clams and or vice grips put some protection at the teeth and you're done cost you a couple dollars or spend 20 or just do like the other guy said press down on the tire as you go around
Mr. Obvious here, what they said, knee, vice grip, clamp on whatever you use; get 180 from the duck head in the drop center. I may be using it wrong but I use the Esco Drop Center Wedge.
The tire machine itself is from Harbor Freight but the attachment is an aftermarket product. I just went and searched them up and it looks like the seller in Canada I got mine from no longer has them in stock and I can't find anything similar for sale anywhere. I'm sure something will pop up again soon in the future
When you went to put the top bead back on make sure you start away from the valve stem especially if it has the air pressure sensors , & push the bead down below the rim flange . That's the reason it slipped back off the first time you tried . 50yrs. in the tire business. & still going at 70yrs. Young
I agree. Always start taking it off starting at the valve stem and put it back on ending at the valve stem. That way the valve stem and especially the pressure sensor do not use up the precious slack you need to get the tire off and back on.
Do you have any pointers on keeping the valve stem aligned with the yellow dot on the tire. I make a best effort then twist the tire against the rim with it mounted but prior to airing up. It is a bit much for me to do a 245/45 17 tire on a 7.5 inch rim. It takes all my strength. I feel fine at the time but can't bare the thought of out sourcing to a pimply faced kid at a shop who doesn't care and who I will have to see many times due to slow leaks. I have alot of money invested in this due to situations like this. That one detail is causing me back pain for a month. I am going to be 50 soon so anything that I can do to mitigate that one issue would be helpful. The other parts of the process are cakewalk using the duckbill. Any ideas? Thanks.
I use some tire bead clamps (just specifically shaped rubber blocks not literal clamps) that help mitigate the tire spinning and I'll move the tire back just a bit so the tiny bit the tire will rotate before pinching the block will actually align the tire with the dot, other than that, I don't have any other special tricks that I've found yet.
What size is the bolt that you mount to the floor, there are 2 parts, 1 is the bolt and the things you drill to the floor and inserted what do you call that, thanks
I can't remember the size of the bolt, probably 7/16" or 1/2", but they thread into "drop in anchors", that's what I'm using at least, they work really well, haven't had any issues with them coming loose or anything yet and I've changed probably 15 full sets of tires now
They call it a swing arm mod, I bought mine on Ebay from this seller. www.ebay.com/itm/373624493594?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ughzyp_7q_u&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=pvOiQn_wS42&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I did the same mistake during mounting stage and tore the beed. Watched similar videos a long time ago and forgot about this small detail regarding positioning of the tire on the duckbill - it's crusual.
on the back of your wheels spray this and scrub with a brush than rinse with water, it will take the caked on rust and grime off like magic, I'm not advertising this, I used it and was shocked it actually worked like magic, Eagle One Etching Mag Cleaner
Move your bead breaker to the hole closest to the pivot point according to the tires profile size it will give you more leverage to help with the bead breaking
I just drilled a new hole on the pivot bar the other day to move the bead breaker out so it is pushing more downward instead of being at an angle and it has made a huge difference!
I bought one of these junker tire changers and after some major modifications I can finally use it. The accessories that come with it is pot metal. Its quicker just to lube the bead and spoon it on than to use the supplied junk.
Looks like another good mod to that would be in the area of the bead breaker. Make a tube with a round plate at the bottom - like the top where the tire mounts. Put lug bolts thru the plate. Weld that to a piece of 1x3 tube and bolt it down. Maybe make it adjustable fir different size tires. Then the tire stays flat while you push down to break the bead with a longer bar.
I NOTICED THE TIRE MACHINE WAS MOVING TOO MUCH ... I MOUNTED MINE ON A HEAVY WOODEN PALLET ,,, NOW IT DOESNT MOVE AT ALL ... PLUS IM STANDING ON THE PALLET.. AND I CAN MOVE THE WHOLE THING AROUND IF IN THE WAY....
I have often worried about using lube on the bead knowing it stays there and it's the only contact area between the rim and the tire to transmit power to the road.
@@HardAngle yup, I can't get tire shops to even line up the yellow dot with the valve stem, when I ask them to use hairspray instead of lube, they look at me like I have a dick growing out of my forehead. I guess tire shop dudes can't afford actual hotrods, so they don't understand when someone is spinning rims inside of their tires...
This might be a very useful and headache relieving investment for you then. Since I was taught by some viewers how to use it right it is quite easy to change tires, I honestly don't think I'll ever buy a pneumatic, bolt this into the bed of the truck and I have a tire changer I can use at the track.
WD40 works really well too, plus the little straw on the can makes it easy to get right in between the wheel and tire before pushing the tire off the bead.
I THINK, it is this one, I haven't ordered a replacement in a while but this looks correct. www.ebay.com/itm/195005320751?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=d0pC_VVLRm6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=pvOiQn_wS42&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@HardAngle Would u be able to make a video on that? I have a set of Michelin PSS’s and would like to see it in action if possible. Are you having any problems with scratching the wheels or installation?
If you're super careful you won't scratch your wheels, the duckbill doesn't scratch anything because its nylon, its mainly breaking the bead that risks scratching the rim the most.
@@HardAngle What centering cone did u use? and how’d u keep it the whole wheel from spinning? I have that tire changer just without the mod. The little red rod broke that kept the wheel from spinning sadly.
I drilled holes in the plate the wheel sits on and I use bolts and lugnuts to bolt it down, I only have to use 2 lugnuts but it makes the wheel very solid on the machine and makes your life a whole lot easier. That way I also don't need a centering cone, I just made sure the holes were equal lengths from the center post when I drilled them, I hope that helps!
I haven't come across any to try but I have a feeling it probably wouldn't since there are special tire machines for run flats. If I ever come across any I'll be sure to make a video on it.
I guess it's more profitable to slap a new tire on as fast as possible. I don't want to take it off later to fix a dirty leaky bead so I like to scrub them clean or use the wire wheel in extreme cases of rust or corrosion.
After watching this, I believe it’s just best for me to have a technician charge me $30/wheel for my motorcycle. $60 every 3 years isn’t worth doing all this for my case I guess
For some people it's not worth it for sure, I have a habit of running over nails somehow and find myself removing a tire monthly to do a patch so for me its completely worth the investment. Thank you for watching and commenting.
I have a bubble balancer. And I've done a full tire change for pretty much every one of my family members and not one has ever complained of a vibration.
