A customer complained about a loss of power in high gear. After looking in to it I found his clutch plates worn out, and upon disassembly, I found that is was caused from improper adjustment.
Paying some joker $1,000 to screw up my motorcycle is exactly why I do my own work as much as possible. No one is as careful about making sure everything is right as I am. In the past I've had a couple of guys like you who I trusted with my life (literally) and they were my go-to when ever something was needed that was beyond my ability (or I didn't have the tools). Sadly, they are gone now and I suppose I will be too soon. I really enjoy your videos. They are very detailed but also move right along so I get the info I need without the usual blah blah you get on other channels. Well done and thank you!
Half a day spent looking for a video of clutch inner spring set to make sure I didn't' put it in facing wrong way. Finally a clear video of it! Thanks for showing that.(repair manual said convex/ concave??, not clear)
Absolutely! Good luck to you, man. Enjoy that thing. Best advice I can give is to pick up a Clymer manual for it. $40 and it’ll teach you everything you need to know. I have “how to” and DIY videos set to release all the way in to March, with more on the way. Thanks for watching!
In some videos I have seen, they insert an Allen key inside the mainshaft while they take a wrench and loosen the nut. Why was that necessary in the bike you were working on?
Thanks. Good video. I thought Harley recommended pulling those 2 extra rings out when you’re replacing OEM with aftermarket. You did mention the replacement is OEM.
You said there was, one last friction plate or steel plate left in when you were in disassembly and didnt remove it because you reused it. How can you mix old parts with new parts? Was it a friction plate you left in?
Hey pal, ty for another awesome vid. Harley Davidson of nassau county ,long island, just installed a brand new clutch assembly( HD pt# 37802-04A, for my 2005 fatboy.).But they used my old grub screw,aduster plate,and snap ring from old clutch. i was doing a clutch adjustment, cause i could not find N, when bike was running. So i changed the primary fluid to formula+.when taking derby cover off, bad fish smell,and i did notice, a blueing color,all around the starter ring gear, esp where the rivets are?? normal from factory?? (looks just like my old clutch which had 30,000 miles on it) . clutch handle squeese, is much easier,and clutch does hook up, with no slipping, just very concerned about blueing on front of ring gear.. just hope they didnt f....ed me and swapt an old clutch on me?? there is a qr code on the new clutch, which was not on the old one,so it deffinitly was changed, they also gave me my old clutch assembly back, in one piece. sorry for the long question bro, just lost ,right now. ty in advance,
Thank you for sharing, any help would be very gracious,, I’m trying to adjust my clutch (in the primary case) on (2016 Road King) and someone wrenched down the center nut inside the primary in order for my wrench to reach without stripping the nut, can I use an impact or would I cause any harm if everything turned trying to brake that center nut loose? I don’t want to screw anything up? I bought flexible wrenches and still can’t get to the nut all the way on a wrench so holding the Allen wrench and trying to break the nut loose is not easy without spinning everything there.
@@babybugspaw7085 coming out it won’t hurt anything. If that center screw does come out it’s no big deal. There’s no pressure behind it. Just the rod that goes through the transmission to the clutch cable side
@@GilstrapGarage you’re much appreciated, but I finished that part & now the cable is either too much slack or tighten it down some & I can get the handle even to budge close to hand grip. What am I doing wrong..
No need to separate the adjuster from the spring retainer; that can come out and go back in as one piece and then you dont have to mess with the snap ring since all it does is hold those two pieces together.
When you say “plate “ , you should be saying “friction plate” then smooth steel plate, for clarity. Just a friendly suggestion for the not so experienced.
curved part in tells me nothing, does the convex or concave side go in first ?, but yeah did my 08 low rider the other day. Way easier than my 05 CBR600RR track bike, the CBR uses individual springs instead of a spring plate. Harley did good with the spring plate, makes the job a little easier not to mention the basket is easier to slide a pen magnet in and get the inner plates out.
I have a 91 Electra glide first Harley.. but my plates keep burning out in like 2 days.. I let them soak 24hrs… Do you add clutch fluid to this.. bcuz there is a small drain plug??
Yes, Primary fluid 1 quart. I use Amsoil V Twin Primary Fluid Synthetic. 2008 H-D Dyna Low Rider. My bike takes 1 U.S. Quart when changing. Get a service manual and check for how much in your 1991 bike. These bikes have wet clutches and you need the Fluid for the Primary Chain lubrication also. My Dyna needs 2 1/2 quarts engine oil with new filter. 1 quart Transmisson Fluid and as of above 1 quart Primary Fluid for the Primary chain case. I change all 3 every 3500 to 4000 miles.
Sorry ... I know it was a year ago, but to answer your question - it depends. However, if you have upgraded your cam and are putting out more than 100 ft lbs of torque, you should upgrade the plates with kit 27980-10 which is the SE plates - better hold at high torque. Also, if you use that kit you eliminate those two small inner rings as well, since the SE plates are a lil thicker. Side note - no need to take the adjust plate loose from the spring locking ring and you don't have to touch the snap ring; once you take the spring retaining ring, that all comes off as one piece.
This one was so long ago now, I don’t remember. I either use 20w50 or if I’m using a maxima kit, I run their primary oil, which isn’t as heavy as 20/50
So I went riding & when I got off the freeway. After the red light my RPM was hitting 5k RPM just barley twisting the throttle. Hit 2nd gear same thing happen. Pulled over & now the bike doesn't take off even in first gear. In my first gear I let go of the clutch and it didn't turn off just stayed in gear (not going). Bike smells burnt.
When you’re riding on the freeway, 5th or 6th gear in somewhat lower RPM (2500/3000) pin it to speed up. If the bike takes off, your clutch is OK. If it revs up but you don’t go significantly faster, then it’s time to replace
It goes in before that first small plate. There’s a flat ring, the curved ring, the first small disk, and then the plates and disks alternating after that
@@GilstrapGarage Okay, I must be missing something then, because that is not how it was shown at the 8:00 min mark, it shows you putting in the the smaller clutch plate, and then that small curved ring I was talking about, followed by your first flat steel plate, so I am confused then. I must be misunderstanding your comments, but thanks for the info anyway.
You’re 100% right about the order I put it in, I didn’t think it all the way through before I responded. So it’s easier to put that spring in first, but it will fit through the small disk, I think what happened was I forgot to put it in and then slipped it under afterwards.
I noticed that you didn't say anything about installing the factory clutch spring plate. Maybe I'm way behind and Harley Davidson stopped using that design. Some people call it a Grenade plate. Because those brass rivets wear out and they come apart and the pieces go everywhere and can destroy the clutch basket and the statir all because of a terrible design.
Everyone’s on a different level, I guess. Some people just ride the piss out of their bikes and have someone take care of it when it’s not rideable anymore lol. I mean, this dude is one hell of a plumber and would probably look at some of the things I’ve done and go “why wouldn’t anyone know how to do that the right way” 🤣
Owner of the bike will pay 1k for handlebars but won't spend 200 dollars to buy a extra clutch disk pack from Barnett... crazy.. anytime I'm replacing something it's definitely not going to be stock parts going in
Damn everyone rides dyna low riders out there... I had a buddy who had a 08 with 10k miles sell it in 2019 and could only get 5k for it.. bike was stock but was well worth 5k.. I didn't know he was selling it until it was gone or I'd of bought it just to have for awhile
Yeah, the lowrider comes with a lot of great features that the street Bob doesn’t have, the only thing I don’t like is the rake in the trees. It’s the same rake they have on the wide glides. the +2 fork tubes give it a “chopper” style look on the lowrider, they look better on the street Bob models, but even then, I wouldn’t go +2 on my own bike
I’m watching this video because my clutch went out very suddenly while riding tonight, guessing I broke the basket because it was fine then one romp on the throttle and it barely holds anything now
I bought the exra plate clutch pack for my Road King.....Its been a nightmare with this clutch....I installed it exactly like the factory said....Adjusted it exactly like they said and it wasn't even close.....They are completely different in the adjustment of the center throw out and even at that....Nothing works so far......Bike continues to pull in first gear with the clutch all the way in...Neutral is impossible to find. Stick with Harley parts....
Yeah I get both sides of that argument. I get some people just want the reward of riding and don’t like doing the maintenance, and the amount of people that come through that really have no clue what they’re looking at it surprising and scary, because they look over some things that’s their life literally depends on. But I really enjoy the work, so I won’t complain when it comes my way haha
@@GilstrapGarage Somewhere around when the Evo came out it was said that you no longer needed to be a Biker to own a Harley. Having started life with a panhead in my early teens knowing how to do basic maintenance like rebuilding a clutch was pretty much mandatory. No kid could afford to go to a dealer back in the early 1960's. These days there are things I can't do because I don't have the tools or I'm just not comfortable in my ability. But for the most part I still do my own work for the reasons stated: it's my life if some mechanic botches the job and there are very few in this world that I trust with my life. I see that you use the Clymer manual. I've never been very impressed with the MoCo service manual which, like most things that H-D sells, is sub-standard. I especially appreciate that you don't edit out your screwups. Helps me to avoid mistakes so thanks especially for that!
