Welcome to the Service Clinic at Low Country Harley-Davidson with Doc Harley. Here he talks about upgrading your clutch. The H-D clutch upgrade does not include CVO hydronic clutch upgrades.
Great video thank you so much I have 20000 on my 18 street glide it’s great to know these things when stuff starts to need replacement thanks again always look forward to your videos
I'm glad this was cleared up. The reviews on the SE clutch plates had tons of people complaining about the lunging and not having any semi engagement on the clutch. Sounds like they were lazy and didn't soak the plates first.
MasterTech396 it has nothing to do with soaking the plates. Doing it overnight is just wasting your time and this is simply old thinking that is not substantiated. Use anything other than the FP oil and you will probably be fine. I’ve soaked or forgot to soak plates on many different makes and models and I’ve never had a clutch lurch or grabbing problem. A lot of people refuse to believe it and want to stick with the old misconception but we’ve done a lot of research and testing and it’s not a critical as people think. We also go by what the OE’s recommend and it varies as well.
Heard of the clutch basket cracking on high output motors. Barnett makes a billet aluminum one piece basket. I’m also upgrading to Barnett clutch and pressure plate with easy pull clutch.
Useful video, we documented adjusting the Clutch on a Sportster recently after too many hard launches but unfortunately will need a new clutch so it's nice to know the options.
I own a 2019 FXLR with a Stage 1 Upgrade. Plenty of torgue and power for my use and riding style--mostly daily in-town. But, the clutch engagement is imprecise. This attribute is forgiving and doesn't require development of precise fine motor skills finesse--great for new and/or casual riders. But, I continuously practice to improve the skills taught in the Skilled Rider Course as a safeguard against other drivers--particularly in urban traffic and parking lots. After watching this video, I replaced the OE clutch with a SE Clutch Kit and new 1100 springs at the 15k mile service. The difference in clutch control has been significant. The clutch engagement to the engine is more precise and occurs over a broader range on movement of the clutch lever. I have also notice a significant improvement in my ability to accelerate smartly from a complete stop--very useful in urban traffic. Moral of Story: There are benefits to upgrading to the SE Clutch in addition to the ones you state i your video. Love you videos; keep them coming.
I did the SE clutch plate upgrade on my 103 . Guess what i forgot..that stronger diaphragm spring plate lol . So i got it and new primary gasket installed..now it feels and sounds better.
When I bought my stock 2011 street glide 103ci, the stock clutch was fine. When I changed the air cleaner and exhaust along with adding a power vision, it was marginal. When I changed the cams, it would slip the clutch in 2nd and 3rd gear.
There are some old ways of thinking here. First of all Barnett makes better clutch components than Screaming Eagle. Just because it comes from the factory doesn’t mean it’s the best for you. The difference in the diaphragm springs is simply the thickness of the steel. Thicker makes for a stiffer spring tension. Diaphragm springs also tend to have a more “on/off” feel to it whereas coil springs are more progressive. This is just one reason why Barnett makes coil spring conversion kits and the Scorpion line of clutches which feature greatly increased capacity and multiple sets of coil springs that allow for a wide variety of spring tensions. The Scorpions are Ideal for stock to modified motors and for everyday street riding to full race environments. Lever effort is also kept to minimum and light springs can be used in many applications. The Scorpions are made to fit in the stock basket as well and Barnett has high quality Billet clutch baskets available too if you need it. Also, you DO NOT need to soak your plates in oil overnight. This is a very common misconception and one of those debates that will never go away. You can, it won’t hurt, but your just wasting your time. I (we) never soak the plates overnight. 5-10 minutes is fine. Pre-soaking is not even required at times with some makes and models. If you bike lunges or dies when putting it in gear in the morning it’s more likely from that Formula Plus oil or something else causing the plates to stick or hang up and not slide freely or improper adjustment.The FP oil for lack of a better term is very sticky. It can cause the clutch plates to stick together resulting in drag, poor shifting, etc.. This is made worse in colder climates. Once the oil warms up, then it’s all good. It has nothing to do with how long you soaked the plates. It happens with stock and aftermarket plates. There are plenty of other high quality primary oils out there that you can use and not run the risk of the plates sticking together. You can also use ATF. Type F with give you a harsher, more grabby engagement. The Dexron will provide a smoother engagement. It’s OK to go outside the HD/SE box. Barnett has been around doing this since 1948 and it’s all manufactured and assembled in the USA. No outsourcing, no importing of inferior cheap parts. Virtually everything they make is made in house. One of the last truly American made companies.
My last dresser had 80,000 miles. During that time, I replaced the clutch plates several times. When stock plates became hard to find. I replaced the plates with screaming eagle. I used the bike but never abused it. I find this acceptable. Big bike, three road rallies and several rides on very steep city streets in San Francisco. I was good to my FLHTC and it was good to me.
Larry Skachenko i just bought a 97 road king with 27’000 miles on it. The other day i put it in gear and the thing started moving by itself. adjusted the clutch inside the derby cover and adjusted the cable. was good for about 5 minutes then was slipping under high rpm. What’s the average mileage of a clutch?
Depends on the abuse. Other issues like no service or lack of service. Possible parts not installed properly can have great effect on clutch longevity. Bad throw out bearing can cause clutch issues.
Jim, I also still using OEM clutch. 2012 RK just recently rolled over 156K. Last time dealer was in primary, they said plates still seemed fine and I have no issues on the road.
I am happy DOC makes clearly the point that "race" components are not necessarily the best choice for those ... who do not race! BTW if the clutch does not slip, why replacing the spring with a stiffer one?
THANKS FOR ALL THE TECH INFO. ALWAYS NICE TO HAVE A FACTORY TRAINED PERSON EXPLAINING THIS INSTEAD OF SOME OTHER BOZO'S ACTING LIKE THEY KNOW SOMETHING
Doc u are the man...BUT for this specific issue you should do a 5 sec clip saying “you must not”. Just for us. Failed . OR...have a lecture at the Harley designers and technicians about redesigning. What ever you prefer.
Doc, Once again, Thank you for all the energy and time you put into these videos. They have helped me countless times over the past months and years. Let me say that before I publish this blog I am not a Professional Harley Mechanic however I do hold a degree in Mechanical Engineering. Therefore, the solution to the problem I have been having with my clutch is something I would like to report. I am not in any way saying this is the fix for all Harley's and your results may vary. I purchased a new Barnett Extra Plate Clutch pack and a new clutch spring that is supposed to be the same as Harley's OEM part. I installed it to specifications making sure each step was completed exactly as the Harley Service Manual specifies. After installation I noticed these problems occurring . First the heal/toe shift lever was very hard to move. When shifting it was almost like the clutch wasn't breaking the power to the transmission and shifts were abrupt and hard. The bike was almost impossible to get into neutral when cold, hot or anything in between. The Harley manual says to adjust the clutch, loosen the clutch cable adjustments so you have free play. It also stipulates in the Barnett instructions when loading the clutch pack to discard the two bottom rings that Harley installed. The clutch pack was installed after soaking the clutch disks for 48 hours completely covered with Red Line Primary Fluid. After it being install the adjustment process started. The manual says to turn in the center threaded rod until you feel it "bottom out". Then turn the screw outward 1/2-3/4 of a turn and then tighten the lock nut. Then adjust the cable and your all set to enjoy your Harley. Well, that didn't happen and I had all the problems as described above. So, I deducted that even though Barnett say their total overall stack up with the extra plates equals that of the OEM Harley clutch I was skeptical. I decided to re-adjust the clutch hub screw. Instead of making the screw bottom out and then backing it off, I bottomed it out and left it there. This essentially lengthens he rod and gives more "throw out" for the clutch bands to separate. Well, this worked "better" but no cigar. Something was still not right so I gave it another go. I adjusted the clutch hub with a 1/4 turn of "turn in" not "turn out but in doing so I noticed something peculiar. All of the hex bolts that hold the clutch spring on had all the edges of the screws beautifully polished. That seemed funny to me so I looked further. My 2003 Road-King primary cover has a 0-ring groove for a o-ring seal for the derby cover. Well, the last mechanic who worked on it put a full center flat disk gasket. I noticed that the flat disk gasket had a perfect ring worn in it the same diameter as the clutch bolts. So, my theory here is when the clutch lever was depressed the throw was in excess of the clearance that was supposed to be there because there was not supposed to be a flat gasket material across the open therefore reducing the the amount of 'throw-out" and clearance. I placed on order a replacement o-ring to replace the solid flat disk gasket so the center of the clutch is open and can use the extra clearance the derby cover provides. Now the bike shifts like butter, does not pull with the clutch depressed in 1st. gear and the transmission falls into neutral almost without effort. ....Once again, I am not saying this is the fix for any other Harley, just mine but its food for thought. Rp
I always accept an engineer’s report. I am hoping you returned the adjuster screw back to factory spec. The 1/2-3/4 out is for expansion when everything gets hot!…Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson I understand the CTE of mechanical parts. Unfortunately it doesn't work at the factory setting. It might work just fine for a OEM Harley clutch but it certainly doesn't work for Barnett Clutches. The clutch and transmission are butter smooth, the clutch is not slipping and it falls into neutral without effort. I can't argue with results...I found the sweet spot on my motorcyclist. As I said, I am not saying to do this or that it will work on any other motorcycle. It works for me.....
Hey Doc, My Harley manual PN 99483-03A stipulates 32 oz of primary fluid for my TC88. It repeats that quantity two different places. One for just a fluid change and again if you are replacing the clutch. No place in my manual, that I can find , gives me two numbers. What page do those two numbers appear in your manual. I put 32 oz into a dry case with a full clutch and primary chain replacement. I may not have enough primary fluid in the damn thing...Help..???
Doc, Here is the final report. Keep in mind, I do not recommend any part manufacture ever. I only report what I used and what my results were. I put a dial gauge indicator on the throw out shaft with the center bolt of the clutch pack turned out 1/2 turn. I read .040 max throw out....Not even close to be enough so, I ran the center bolt in until it bottoms and locked it there....NO TURN OUT AT ALL. The distance went up to .070 travel which is within spec for the clutch throw out. I also switched to Redline Primary Fluid and Redline 75-140 Transmission Gear Oil. I also checked the primary chain to see if the Harley automatic tensioner was over tightening the chain. I am happy to report it is not. The chain had approximately .450 total travel which is a little tight but, by no means over-tension. So, I stand corrected!!! You are right the new version of Harleys chain tensioner works just fine. After all this the transmission shifts like butter. No clunking and the transmission almost falls into neutral all by itself. Long and short...and problem fixed....Thank you and all the people who commented for the help.....Im riding more and wrenching less.....
I remember test riding a Harley Lowrider about 20 or so years ago. I think it was a 1990 model or somewhere in there, EVO. The guy told me that it had a heavy duty clutch in it and I believed him because the clutch lever was a bear to pull and everytime I shifted gears up til about 3rd gear the rear tire chirped without me intending to do it. I didn't care for it much myself but maybe if there would have been a clutch lever pull reduction kit available it wouldn't have been too bad. I don't recall him telling me which clutch kit he used.
I have a question... I have a 2015 Ultra Limited. (Twin cam with hydraulic clutch) from what I understand from this video is that the 2017 and later screaming eagle 10 plate clutch plates and springs kit (Milwaukee 8) will fit my bike ? The reason I ask is that the dealership says they are not compatible and no one has an answer for me as to how to upgrade my clutch. Are they the same clutch ?
Hi doc. I have a 2010 flstc 96" motor and an 05 fxd tranny. The original set up for that tranny was a belt final drive. However im going to use a chain for final drive. So my question is what can i use for a spacer to take up the difference in exposed shaft space. And im i supposed to use a thrush washer between the clutch basket/spacer/final drive sprocket? And then im going to have to fab. a primary cover or run the primary dry. Thoughts?? Thanks. Yea got a hell of a mess going on here, but i have to make it work
I've a stock 2013 103ci... 15,000 mi. Thinking of replacing/upgrading the clutch. The first Screaming Eagle clutch set... I just want "Better than stock" just to increase life and reliability. I'm a 67 yo rider, I don't "Push" my bike... fairly well "Babied". Do I need to upgrade the spring too?
I took your advice and replaced my 2009 FLHR's clutch plates and spring with Screaming Eagle plates and spring. The plates had 1 more that stock. I also put on a shorter clutch cable. Now in order to adjust the clutch lever to specs I have the adjusting nut as far out on the adjuster as I can get it and still have it on the threads. Do I have to change the clutch push rod length to accommodate the extra clutch plate?
No. Something is not right. If you are sure the ball and ramp are seated in the close position in the right cover. Then I would say you have the wrong clutch cable. Changing the clutch plates should not effect where your clutch cable adjustment should be. Re trace your assembly. Thanks ~ Doc
doc plz upload HARLEY DAVIDSON street 750 XG ONE BY ONE SERVICE all service plz like engine oil change , brake oil change, brake pad , air filter clean or change and other also brake wire change , exilator cable change , plug wire change plz upload . iam from india i purchase 2017 street 750 abs model
Hi Doc, great video as always thank you for that, I removed my clutch as part of an inner primary removal due to a shift shaft seal leak and drive belt change on my 07 ultra classic 96 cuin There were chipped spline teeth on the transmission side of the clutch internal splines so i will be replacing that but ive heard that there have been some mods done by Harley to the inner primary bearing I believe. Can you say if there will be any issues, if i request the original part numbers for this job, not quite jiving with newer or post mod parts or updates from HD, would be good to know in advance if there could be issues - thanks Doc
Usually if HD has improved a part the parts department will see a super superceeded part number. The seal you must be attentive to is the seal in the inner primary at the shaft entrance. It must be installed in the right direction….Doc
To the critics, my guess is Harley makes the bike for the demands of the average rider. As with anything with wheels, people want upgrades to separate their bike from the pack. Your bike doesn’t have to have the upgrades to run for years. Harley is very proud of their name so the part cost is insane and it would be nice if they’d come down. 15 years ago or so people still had to order their bike but now the market is saturated by Harley’s after their failed credit program that gave everybody a bike, so it seems like at some point these prices would start going down.
The used Harley market prices are down. I see all kinds of decent big twin Harley's in the Softail and Dyna model range for $6000.00 + or - . You couldn't hardly find a basket case for less than $8000.00 back in 1990.
Do you have a video on replacing the hydraulic clutch plates on a 2018 ultra limited. The 2018 is a 107 All the youtube I find are for bikes with a cable clutch. I'm not sure what will happen if I remove the 3 bolts holding the springs which operates the clutch. I would hate to find I can't get the pressure plate (which is much different than the clutch spring of a cable clutch). I see a snap ring (which I find on manual -page 7, Figure 7-28 Release Bearing and push rod.) I can remove and don't know what will happen if I remove the snap ring in front of the bearing, or if I even need to remove the snap ring to get the clutch apart to replace the clutch disks. I have the manual and on page 7-7 Figure 7-11 they show the clutch hub mainshaft nut. When I pop the small cover on the primary cover I don't see that mainshaft nut. Any assistance would be appreciated.
Dear doc, in order to put the screaming eagle clutch kit do I have to put also the extra pair of screaming eagle discs and remove the stock central spring disc with all the other stock discs and also the two small dumper springs- washers?Thank you in advance
Hello Doc, Love all your videos very informative were all better mechanics because of you, I have a question, I recently brought my 2016 SGS with a Stage V Tire Shredder Kit into out local HD Dealer I wanted my Clutch upgraded I have 27K miles on my bike and I do ride fairly hard so I figured I would go with the SE clutch plates, They talked me into going with the SE Performance Assist and Slip Clutch Kit, being its winter and were covered in snow here in ND I have to wait to ride, My question is will this clutch affect my riding on ride like in SD where coming into corners and I depend on the engine back pressure to slow me down instead of using brakes? Thanks
Great video Doc! I am having to replace the inner primary cover. 2014 Street Glide. After placing the clutch basket back in, is there an adjustment needed since this is the hydraulic clutch?
Once inner primary is replaced and clutch assembly is back on, all I have to do is torque down and no adjustment necessary? My clutch assembly doesn't have the jamb nut and adjuster screw... Just the large nut inside.
Hello Doc, I just got done watching this video again and have a question for you. Just had my bike retuned and was thinking about upgrading the clutch, but after watching again I was wondering if I just replace the springs to the 1275N would work just fine instead of buying new clutch plates.
I do not know how many miles, power additions, style of riding. So I start with clutch plates and add the stronger spring set to help the new plates last….Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson Thanks for the response. I have less than 5000 miles. Stage 2 w/ RS 468, 58 mm HPI throttlebody/manifold and full Rinehart exhaust.
Figure a higher output alternator, better clutch, tires, suspension and remapped fuel injection for more power. Around here the police use theirs to patrol in the city plus out on the highway ( I-95) so their performance requirement runs the whole spectrum.
hey doc just recently bought a dyna fxdx with tons of engine work and i’m pretty sure they did screamin eagle clutch work also. however my clutch is a little tight i saw there is the reduced effort clutch for harley but is it true you are not supposed to use it with screamin eagle clutch parts? and if so would you just recommend a easy pull clutch lever? thanks and nice video
I would suggest a Mueller product. They offer a different ball and ramp that helps. I like your suggestion of an adjustable lever. Take the time to lube your cable....Doc
quick one... lets presume on soft tail standard m8 107 would like to keep 107 upgrading most of it... and put turbo kit on it in the end... would m8 114 engine clutch would be enough to install on 107 engine ?
i have a 14 street glide with a stage 5 tire shredder kit, its got 26k on the odometer and i think im feeling what is clutch slippage...should i begin looking at replacement clutch parts? How long does an oem stock clutch typically last?
Let’s me see, installed Stage 5 “Tire Shredder” kit to just put around town with….NOT😆 the question of how long does a Stock clutch last went out the window with the first power launch 💪. Hoping the shop installed the Stage 5 clutch spring. But even that want last long. I suggest new SE clutch plates and contact AIM company for suggestions on how to hold that power to the rear wheel. Glad your having fun….Doc
Hey Doc, I know this video is a few years old but I was wondering if you could give me some advice. I am getting ready to replace my clutch basket assembly on my '09 Road King(70k + miles) with a new 37813-06A clutch basket assembly, my question is, do I need to remove the clutch friction plates and soak them in oil or do they come pre-soaked from the factory. I can't seem to get a straight answer from anyone, I've heard they have to be soaked and I've also heard it's all ready to install. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thnx.
Harley-Davidson 20w-50 motor oil, the new HD Heavy oil for Primary and Transmission. Buy 3 quarts of this because back then the primary took over a quart
Question I have a 2016 Street Glide Special and I recently installed the Screaming Eagle Clutch Kit : 37980-10 with the heavier Spring Plate and they perform awesome.. The last 2 Primary Fluid Services (each of 5000 miles the fluid has a slight clutch grit color of the fiber never noticed the discolor before these clutches were installed I'm aggressive on the throttle but clutch fully released I'm not one to use the sweet spot much or slip a clutch both times I used HD Formula Plus Primary Fluid and this last service I removed the the clutch pack and inspected each fiber and steels they look as if they were just installed is this a normal outcome the primary fluid color after several miles I'm an ASE tech of 36 years for automotive but new to working on HD just curios if I'm looking into this to deep fixing to make a trip of 6000 miles and I need to clear mind or look deeper
You've got more years wrench'in then me. You have gone beyond most in re examining the clutch plates. The Primary fluid will always have a color because of the clutch material, primary shoe material, primary chain material, compensator gears and more. After installing new clutch plates the steal and fiber mate to each other and some material will be lost You are good to go...Doc
Doc Harley I have a 2012 cvo street glide with 9200 miles and recently it has been starting very hard when warm. It will make a horrific noise coming from the left side of the primary. It has been in the shop 3 times whereby first the clutch hub was replaced do to broken teeth, second time replacing the compensator and lastly replacing the starter. To say the least I am frustrated. I have taken it to yet another HD shop and they diagnosed the problem as a bad starter. B.S. What are your thoughts. Fed up in South Florida
To diagnose your bike, I would have to see it in person. It sounds like the dealerships you've gone to are following the H-D flow chart procedures for your problem.
Hi doc I have a 05 harley sportster and the rear caliper is stuck.. It was working. I was changing the brakes but the caliper will not move back so I bleed the caliper and it moved. I put the new ones on now it doesn't move please help
I am sorry for your issue. The 05 Sportster rear brake caliper is the most difficult to work with. I don’t know the age of the original fluid, but if you pushed the brake pistons back before installing the new pads, I call this back flushing. It forces the old contaminated fluid back through the master cylinder’s components and seals. Sometimes they fail. In the future it’s best to open the bleader valve before pushing the pistons in. Take your bike to the Dealer for further examination. Thanks ~ Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson Thanks Doc....I'm doing this replacement on a 2012 Street Glide FLHX. (just for an upgrade) Nothing's wrong with my stock plates (18,000 mi.)
So you are saying i can directly put in the m8 10 disk plates in my 16 flhtk basket and still use the rest of the stock clutch or do i need to change to the m8 3 spring setup as mine has the diaphragm spring type
The 16 uses the diaphragm spring setup with hydro clutch, the 10 disk steels of m8 pack do not match the grooves of the drive on that hydro diaphragm setup
Hey Doc, I have a question that I hope u can solve, I had a 2020 Harley FLHTK (hydraulic clutch), and one day I find out my clutch was slipping, so I replace it with a set of new SE clutch plates, at the cold start clutch works just fine, but after I ride for about 40 to an hour, the clutch began to slip at 3 third even the second gear when I accelerate, what could be the possible problem?
Hello Doc. Thanks for your video. I recently purchased SE clutch plates with heavy duty spring. The local HD installed and I like it very much. My question for you is that am I limited to HD primary syn oil or what brand do you recommend? I have 2015 dyna street bob with 6spd tranny
paul son what a surprise! A HD mechanic/dealer only recommends HD oil. You’re going to get a very limited view and choice of products from them. There are plenty of perfectly good quality primary oils out there and there is nothing wrong with using something other than only HD. You have choices!
I was told by harley stick with stock if replacing and if you ride hard. Those screaming eagle upgrades....he said yeah they install them in police bikes but they burn through these clutches pretty fast....considering how they have to really get on it at times.
Hi Doc, I had my factory clutch plates changed out to screaming eagle plates, there is 2 rings at the back of the packs, 1 taper and 1 spacer, do they need to come out to make room for the new Screamin eagle plates?
Very instructive video,, i am about to do a break in on my 2013 fatboy with a 120 R engine,,, and they installed the se racing clutch kit,, i do not know how it would be,, ( clutch lever) is there any way to ajust it??
It’s adjusted to handle the power of the 120 R, if you adjust the tension on the six springs you’ll loose some of its ability to handle the power. Technically yes, but wouldn’t advise.
just try shifting from second into neutral while the bike is rolling. If you are at the stop and in first, raise the RPM while putting slight pressure on the shift lever....Doc
Hey... Nice chanel.. i use it a lot.. i have an issue ... I changed my clutch but now.. when i put in first gear after the clunk... I start rolling and i hear another clunk and bke start running faster.. and sometimes in second running with ups and downs.. or shifter get stiff in between gear like.... Someone have some clues why this happened?
Julian you have not given us the facts. What model and year? What did you make new in the clutch? Did you use a Factory Service manual or RU-vid? Did you pre-soak the new plates before install? did you have this issue before and you thought changing the clutch would fix it? I am impressed you work on your motorcycle, but mayby it's time to take it to your dealer...Doc
My clutch doesn’t feel like it’s slipping but It seems to slam into first gear, it’s like it does a rotation and bam, I’m thinking new clutch. My humble assumption is my spring plate is failing. Not sure any help I would appreciate.
Cold or all the time how many miles 60-80 thousand miles replace clutch and diaphragm spring , My EVO engines cold would jump with the S&S or Mikuni carbs till the engine got to temp . after a few miles it shift fine as the oil warmed up . my 1986 evo used the diaphragm spring my 1995 evo has a retaining ring press fit same with my 1200 sportster. they went back to the diaphragm spring on the twin cam lot better set up , M8 is the same as the old shovel clutch .
I have a ultra classic 2006 I’m having to constantly adjust my clutch every service other wise it’s hard to get into neutral I have around 72500 got it when it had 64200 last year it’s 5 gears would it be worth upgrading to 6 gears? Or just replace the plates and stay with 5 ?
