www.australianbladeforums.com/... A video showing the processes we use to heat treat blades in a carbon rich atmosphere. This should only be done with appropriate equipment in adequate ventilation.
Excellent video! This is pretty much the only vid that "I" have seen on youtube that takes everything into consideration when it comes to heat treating a carbon steel blade in a propane forge (with a venturi burner). A lot of vids that I've seen over the years the guys will get the blade screaming yellow hot and note that it's non magnetic then quench lol, not quite seeming to understand the importance of grain size, time, temp, as well as with keeping decarb & scale to a minimum. Anyway great job, and thanks for sharing, I'm just about to install my thermocouple into my forge sometimet his week probably and it'll be nice knowing the actual temperature in there after doin it by eye and magnet for over three years now. Hope you intend to keep making knifemaking vids, I recognize your username so I know I've seen some of your vids before and thought they were good, so keep them coming! :)
Great video, many thanks for sharing your expertise ! I see that you held the edge of the blade in the quench oil for a while before immersing it completely. Is this to temper it better ? Also how is the temp thermocouple fitted to your forge?
Hi..I enjoyed the knife heat treating video. Nice down to earth and the explanation of reducing the oxygen in the kiln was right on. But the picture was dark when you quenched the knife but from what I could tell only the edge side of the knife was quenched ( it wasn't put all in the way in and waggled about). Am I right guessing that would leave the back of the knife softer for strength. was that the intention? Thanks Ian Bswick Victoria BC
I actually run the forge up to temp as slow as possible, like over 10 minutes or so so that the forge heat is very very stable during the heat treat. If you go too hot it can take a long time to cool down. To run mine slowly I still use the carburizing flame.
Hi Can i ask if you coated the blade with carbon (e.g. very rich flame producing carbon smoke) first before heat treating would that help stop the surface oxidisation
Hi mate, could you help with the tuning of my home made burner, what size gas nozzle is ideal in a 1" burner? What gas pressure range do they generally operate in? Is the position of the nozzle in the venturi critical? Cheers.
i would like to see the inside parts and mechanics of that forge. i've had a few propane bottles lying around for years, some full, some empties, and i have no other use for them. id like to make one if i could be pointed in the right direction
Excellent idea, very nice, sir. I'm thinking of building this sort of setup, with a thermocouple and firebricks. Do you still recommend it? Would you modify anything? Any recommendations? This setup or an electric oven? There's is the decarburization in the oven, but.... Wich one you'd go for? I'm in serious doubt. Greetings from Brazil and congratulations.
he said thermocouple, a form a transducer... means it's digital as you can see and the contact that detects the temperature is highly heat resistant...
this looks the exact same one doesnt it? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WVCCLK/ref=pd_sbs_328_33?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B007WVCCLK&pd_rd_r=PQZCVEM2KSKDHYBPN9Z4&pd_rd_w=9mHuq&pd_rd_wg=LSV4K&psc=1&refRID=PQZCVEM2KSKDHYBPN9Z4
Nothing in life has to be complicated, and the way you do it works... no question, but doing it this way takes out a lot of the risks. I heat treat lots of other peoples blades, and I don't like taking risks with them after they have put in a day or mores work into making them.
Your tempering temperature is a bit low. You want to shoot for about 530f or about 275c. 180 (assuming c) is way low you wouldn't even get a light straw (about 450f/230c) temper from that.
