Hobby Cheating 136 - Guide to Value Sketching 

Excellent, I am very glad to hear that and always happy to help. :)

Awesome, happy to help as always. :)

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

Well thank you, happy to help as always. ;)

I appreciate that!

Happy to help as always. :)

Excellent, it's something I use all the time, happy to assist. :)

Thanks, happy to help as always. It's really a fast and fun method of painting I use all the time. :)

Always happy to help. :)

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

That's awesome and I am very glad to hear that. That is exactly why I do this so it's wonderful feedback to receive. :)

Awesome, I hope it helped. :)

Thank you, that is awesome to hear and I am always happy to help. :)

Awesome, glad it was helpful. :)

Glad you enjoyed it!

Happy to help!

Glad I could help!

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

Excellent, glad you enjoyed it and always happy to help. :)

Glad it was helpful!

First, we can never forget our pioneers of pop rap. Second, thank you, I am glad this was helpful and sharing with others is always deeply appreciated. :)

@@VinceVenturella I think that if we can recall him, kinda means we're old. BUT, we did have some sweet tunes to rock out to. I have been into GW stuff since the mid-80s and have recently decided to aim at either a Demon or Crystal Brush in the next few years. Thank you for the informative videos and the nuggets of knowledge. For someone who hasn't taken classes, you understand the tools of color and composition well sir. :)

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

Excellent, this is a wonderful technique for board game minis, because they usually don't ned to be display pieces and it lets you get them done quickly.

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

Awesome, happy to help as always. :)

Excellent, happy to help as always.

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

That's awesome, happy to help as always. :)

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you, always happy to help. :)

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

Awesome, happy to help as always.

Exactly, this is more versatile, because you can create any lighting scenario you want as opposed to just a zenithal light.

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

Yep, you can, though in general, you want a good metal paint - I have multiple videos on metal paints and quality. That being said, let's take something like steel. You could lay down the steel, then sketch in the shadows with matte black paint and the highlights with silver paint. You could then smooth out from there with either glazes or controlled mixed layers.

Awesome, always glad to hear and happy to help. :)

Glad you caught it!

So I have an early one about color theory. It's still something probably worth revisiting. - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pVb4jiig0zo.html&list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y&index=22

So i just rewatch the video and i think i doesn't point out the topic i have in mind, i was thinking more about how to chose the right shading color, like in this video where you blue/black shading for the red armor or on the gem video when you use red for the blue gem

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

It's something I use so regularly, even if you end up covering most of the color with later layers, it makes the miniature so much easier to see detail and understand your highlights. :)

@@VinceVenturella I've been thinking about this technique since posting, I call this "Taking Zenithol to the next level". It's exactly what I needed. Thanks for the reply!

Sure, so with those, you can still use white, just make it a warm white, or yellow/brown ivory at the top and make the low colors dark browns. I have a video on it here - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rFDHpVJiNC0.html&index=130

Thank you! :)

Nope, thinned down paints work just fine. :)

For most cases, I think it with water alone, though you can certainly use medium as well. I am not a fan of glazing metallics over matte, my general feeling is you have to start from a solid coat there, but I know Matt Dipietro does it all the time with his sketch style and he's a better artist than me. :) With TMM weapons, I go more traditional and end up getting a solid metallic coat and then working in value sketches with inks and bright metallics (usually silver) from there.

Very expensive license for sure. :) - Glad it was helpful.

Happy to help as always. :)

It's just the name of the series a joke that there is no cheating in the hobby. :)

@@VinceVenturella OK. I have seen a number of references to ‘cheating’ when it turn out to be a simple tip. Thanks for the reply

Winsor & Newton Series 7, they are a little more expensive, but worth it for the durability (really any nice sable brush - Da Vinci, Raphael, etc.)

Totally agreed, he was a big inspiration to me for this style for sure. :) - Pink chaos warriors are the best chaos warriors.

Yes, you are exactly correct. The warmer you make the underlying white, the more true and bright red you will get.

Well, I just happen to have a video on that exact thing - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Doc2GdL2Lv4.html

Not really, because you can't really glaze properly with metallics (in general, it's difficult, I shouldn't say impossible, but very difficult). Now that being said, it's still how I work post the application of a solid base metallic using inks and silver to create the light points. If you look at the videos I have on doing TMM in a NMM style, you will see what I am describing in process.

Excellent, once you get down how thin your glazes and other items should be, you can paint figures really fast with this method and still have wonderful contrast for the tabletop.

Vallejo German Panzer Grey is my first layer (my near black), Badger Stynelrez white is my go to, thinned and built up in thin layers toward full white.

It's much tougher with White or black, but still helpful. In those cases, you either use it to set up the base and then slow push out your highlights (bringing it toward white with near whites) or you deepend the shadows with careful application of darker paints. Nothing special, I just edge it, no additional concerns, I do the edging last I suppose,but other than that, just straight applications of the techniques.

1) Yep, you absolutely can use inks for the whole mini. I teach classes on it at conventions, but I also have a video here - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1YdY7GlwKQc.html&list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y&index=78 2) If you like the Broken Toad, then you're likely good. I have done a video on brushes (not comparing across the all the brands, but I give mention to it as well as care - link below). So as long as we are talking a real sable brush, then W&N, Broken Toad, Rafael, Scarff, Da Vinci, they are all pretty much doing the same job. The differences are very minor and largely to do with the spring and belly size, so it's often more of a matter of personal taste and painting style. Broken toad for example are very soft and have a low spring, W&N have a higher spring (the tension on he bristles to return to the their natural position). With nice brushes (sable brushes) as long as you have some around for the tough work they are needed for, you are good. Here is the vid - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dTqK28W-NEY.html&list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y&index=68

You could certainly do this with simply a brush and some white/grey paint to start over straight black, no issue there at all. :)

I mean, I still count Phantasy Star II as the greatest RPG of all time, so... ;)

Yes, I have another video on that here - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kWN05uTt878.html

Great suggestion, i will add it to the list.

Thanks!

There is a wide range that would work and it depends a little on your final color, but off the top of my head, Vallejo German Black Brown, hull red + Black, FW Sepia ink, Scale 75 Black Leather, all would likely work to some degree.

My honest answer is you could use either. It depends on where you intend to go from there technique wise. That being said, the deeper reds with some blue/black mixed in is probably the easiest and most direct route for your shadows.

@@VinceVenturella Excellent man. Sounds like a plan! Thanks for taking the time to reply buddy.

Interesting, if it's working then it can't be wrong. :)

Nope, it's good to wash resin, but plastic, nah, no need.

You could certainly do the same with paints. Consistency, you are generally doing a layer.

Yes, slightly, but of course, it could be done straight over black.

So a few thoughts. 1) The darker colors put over bright white, will look a lot like the brighter colors. 2) What I tend to do is take those brighter colors and apply them as a layer in the highlight area, but more than just the area I am trying to highlight. Then I come back in and glaze with the darker color over the "extra" highlight to create the midtone at the same time. 3) You can glaze with those colors. It's more difficult, but if you mix them with a little medium you should be able to make them smooth and avoid chalkiness.

Yep, in general, your metals will cover it, but it's still not bad to have slight hints of those tones. For NMM it's a great idea.

It's got a little flow aid in it, but really not enough, you pretty much want to stick to normal flow aid for full effect.

The FW ink is much more pigment intense and pure white than most paints and covers much more strongly and more brightly. Same for the opposite ink.

Great, thanks for the info. Learned to paint back in the late 90ies, so coming back to the hobby there's a lot to learn and unlearn :)

it's tricky, for the most part, you can use any of the techniques at any time, now some of them have applicability in certain scenarios for display pieces, but the reality is for gaming stuff when you are aiming above tabletop quality, you can pretty much use any of them to get where you want. That being said, I did make a video recently (#200) that talks more deeply about general techniques and their applicability.

@@VinceVenturella Hey Vince, thank you for replying. I mostly buy minis to paint them. Gaming is secondary so my army-in-the-making is being brought to life slowly because of that. I would lioe to save some time on certain pieces, that's for sure. Btw, any way to avoid coffee staining with a wash? Like adding a medium or something?

So three things. 1) Not all paint brands are created equal for glazing. I use Scale 75 for most of my glazes, and they are far more pigment rich than GW. Meaning I can take them far more thin and retain their ability to provide color. 2) Always remember, darker colors glaze better than light and you always want to try to be glazing over lighter colors. Glazes have a larger impact on lighter colors. 3) You want to play with your thinness, things like layers are already quite thin, so you may not need to take them as thin to get a glaze consistency.

Generally, Payne's grey is a great universal shadow. Now technically cold colors should have warm shadows (more of a deep crimson) so in that case probably not. That being said, when I do completely cold paint jobs, I use it with cold colors and it works great.

@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince. I really like the Payne's Grey. Great recommendation.

It will look pink after 1 glaze, not uncommon. Glazes work better with darker colors. But with Red over white, you want 3-4 glazes. You will then get a nice true, bright red.

Yes, white paint still is more opaque and stick a little better. I often mix a little white paint into the white ink to get it to adhere and be a stronger color overall when I want a really strong white.

@@VinceVenturella Got it... tks

I have several speed painting videos (here is one - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1YdY7GlwKQc.html) in short though, if they are really small scale, zenithal, drybrush white and then use inks in glaze form to get your colors.

Thanks will take a look at them. Keep up the great work!!

Just a normal chaos warrior from the Chaos Warrior Box set from Games Workshop. :)

I don't, but it could be the inks, some inks have some reactivation issues, so that could be at play. The purple ink was Vallejo Purple ink (I should have stated as such). It's a great color and the whole Vallejo Game Ink set is actually wonderful.

I suppose I'll just have to be a little careful when applying the first coat of paint over the white ink. Thanks for the info on the purple, I can't wait to give this technique a try on my own figures.

Sure, so you can see the exact process on the skintone here (as I have video on that) - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iUFnyLL7cSY.html&index=139 Its the technique I use for most of my models, so if you look at the Ironjawz armor video and others, you will see it in practice.

Thank you!

You need to thin your color. It sounds like you are still trying to put down a base coat in a normal fashion. The key here is that you need to be working in a glaze with your covering color to let the undershade shine through. If you look back at my how to glaze video, you will see what I mean for working in the thinner paints - hope that helps. :)

Sure, just as a sketch, in general, the metal will cover it, but it's still a good guide.

@@VinceVenturella Thanks again for taking the time to help me. Much appreciated.

100% yes, they are perfect for this.

Amazing

Flow Improver does just that, it makes the paint flow more smoothly by disrupting surface tension. The Glaze/Thinner medium increases the medium to pigment ratio, thinning and weakening the paint. in general, I don't want the paint to be weak here. You may want to check out my Guide to Paint additives, I go into more detail on the usage and nature of paint additives such as mediums, flow improvers, etc.

@@VinceVenturella very true. I dont get the difference between painting this coat with the flow improver compared to the one in Hobby Cheating 02 where you use a glaze. Both are basically thinly painting over zenithal highlight. I thought flow improver was more for making like washes since it breaks the bonds. Btw great videos!

So I am not familiar with the brand specifically, but looking, it's waterproof and india ink, so it seems to be the right stuff to stand in without issue.

I ordered some FW stuff as well, but will test on one of my skitarii tonight. Thanks!!

Sorry Vince, another question. value sketching and glazing with red: do multiple coats get rid of the pink hues created? or do I move to a brown glaze? Plz halp.

Oh it certainly would. I will do a few videos on ghosts when they come out to help people out, but here would be my techniques. 1) After the value sketch, I would so a very thin glaze of something like the waywatcher green to get some deep shadows. Very thin. 2) I would use the airbrush to a do a nihlik oxide from above. 3) I would do a few bright "hot" spots in 50/50 nihlik/white Step 2 and 3 are still thinned and should show some of the values underneath.

Yep, I still zenithal primed it.

@@VinceVenturella ... Thanks Vince!!!

Do they? Sure, anything can turn somewhat chalky, though gloss paints are usually less susceptible to it and yes, matte varnish can certainly fix the shine. :)

Generally, it's a good idea to lay out your value sketch at once. It helps you to set the total lighting on the model.

Yep, basically a thin but clean layer.

Vince Venturella should you still see the layer beneath? Or full coverage?

Washing the model in various tones early to set your shades and low-tones and then doing thinner glazes or high value sketches for the highlights I would suspect, but that is inference. :)

Sure, so if you are just starting out, I recommend something cheap and simple like a master series G22. If you are experienced with an airbrush, then I have had very good experiences with the iwata HP-CS. It's my work horse brush for years now.

Just standard Black-Grey-White. Your simple rule of thumb is that if you have the cold side of the spectrum (blue, purple, green), then Black-Grey-White is your undershade. If you have warm side, you want dark brown, mid brown, ivory. Hope that helps! :)

@@VinceVenturella It does, Thank you!

@@VinceVenturella Thank you again, because of all your videos I've painted my best figure yet. This is my eighth ever figure that I've painted. imgur.com/gallery/IKwY0ls

Yes, zenithal priming (black all over, grey at 45 degrees and white from above to set initial values.)

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

Vince Venturella I’m thinking that also instead of using white for the highlight you could get effects with using different colours... for example I light orange/brown for highlights on leather?

Vince Venturella could you do a tutorial on cast light. I have a mini that’s holding a lamp and I would love to show the effect of the light of the lamp casting back onto the character?

@@wingwalker007 I have a video on OSL, I talk a lot about light cast from a source in "frame" in that video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8jgiQsmx1eo.html

In the video, you mentioned that you could do another 30 minute video on colour theory relating to OSL...... I for one would love to hear what you have to say.

Any can work, I use Warcolours, as I really like it, but you can also use something like Liquitex you by from the art store.

@@VinceVenturella okej is vallejo thinner medium the same stuff?

@@edrisardalan2165 No, vallejo Thinner Medium is just acrylic medium (the basic bonding agent). Flow Improver is an additive that breaks surface tension.

@@VinceVenturella okej thanks so much for your help :)

Yes, those will still work, it just takes a little more time to make sure you thin. You want to make some different variances of glazes and paints will work just fine.

I gave it a go, but my glazes ended up too chalky, leaving little deposits everywhere and looking rubbish. Googling it, I'm led to believe I've overdone it with the medium, but if I thicken it up a bit then it stops being a glaze. Can you help?

Well, my best advice is grab some inks, in the end, they are a relatively cheap investment (The Vallejo Game set for example is

I'm wicking like crazy, you've taught me well :)

Excellent, then you are ahead of the game. It could just be the paint. It sounds like what happens when you have a low pigment paint thinned too much. Here is my best advice if you want to stick with these. 1) Pick a much darker color of what you are needing (i.e. if you need a blue, pick a darker blue) 2) Mix in some glaze medium and a small drop of flow aid, then use a wet brush. 3) Wick off the excess 4) Apply some thin, even glazes, pulling into the area you want to deposit the color. Hope that helps.

I use a lot of different inks, Vallejo Game Ink and Daler Rowney FW ink are my favorites.

@@VinceVenturella i asked bout kind of ink not brand. Like are they opaque or translucent? The ones that you use for scetching

@@NightWolf1982pl It varies some by color, but they are mostly translucent.

Thank you sir, much appreciated. :)