Hobby Cheating 137 - Painting with Raw Pigment 

Excellent, happy to assist. :)

Nice, yep, that's a great solution for sure and it's really fun to boot. :)

Yep, the flo-aid is the key, it keeps it from getting to chalky and building up texture. :)

Excellent, happy to hear and glad to help. :)

Clearly we are on a wavelength here. :)

Riiight! Me thinks good ole Vince has some sort of mind reading device :D

Thank you, happy to help as always.

Yep, effectively you can use any pigments, even the weathering pigments (which is what those secret weapons are supposed to be for ostensibly). It's a bit like wet blending, the advantage is you can switch to the dry pigment alone, make sure you like the blend, then set it with a thin glaze. I love it for large flats, especially terrain. I use this trick all the time to do broad changes and color splashes on stone.

I do this with coloured pencils sanded down sometimes. That way I have like 72 colurs without spending a fortune. I usually just mix it with a bit of matt medium to help lock it in :-)

I have not, but there is no reason you couldn't (I mean beyond the metal paints I made for the video).

Thank you sir, very much appreciated.

He who controls the pigment, controls the universe (of that miniature). ;)

@@VinceVenturella Best. Reply. Ever. Also, Fear is (Painting) progress killer!

I don't tend to do a great deal of historical stuff, but that is a good idea. I assume you mean camo patterns, that sort of thing.

Nope, more of basic uniforms in olive drab or sand colors. My oldschool Warhammer days ended with the year 1994, but I remember Imperial Guard units to be pretty similar and still be, aren`t they?

Yes, depending on the regiment or world (or whatever they are called), some have that very "realistic" color scheme. I will see what I can do, I think both make sense on the list. :)

Can`t wait! :-)

Vince Venturella Camo pattern would be a good idea too.

Another question, is it relevant to work with pigment directly after a zénithal priming or after your sketch technique?

raw pigment is really useful and this is one way (as additional color to basing - representing dust, grime and other thins is another). My most used colors - black, rust and violet. With this technique, you wouldn't want to try it over black, so I wouldn't call it essential to be over zenithal, but it helps. The other option is to go over a lighter color, but neutral primer (like an ivory/bone color).

Beyond what I say in the video? ;) - The reason is that the light and neutral tone will mix more evenly and produce more of a true color closer to the pigment itself. Most pigments are dark (most, not all) and so as you mix them, whatever you are mixing them into will get darker, so you want to start light which then let's you control toward the shadows. Hope that helps.

Vince Venturella Yeah, that helps. As english isn't my first language I may miss a thing or two sometimes. ;-)

No issue at all, just being funny, always happy to help. :)

Thank you, glad to help. :)

So assuming you aren't just using the dry pigment like I was in the beginning and then fixing with something, yes, the key is not only the paint mixture, but also the flow improver. You may want to add a little medium (thinner, etc.) as well to keep everything going. The key is that you want to keep it flowing and flow-aid is a real winner for that. Hope that helps.

Thanks I'll give this another go with more flow improver and some thinner. I think I may also be adding too much pigment to the mix since it dries the mix out so much

Yes, it takes very little to be really effective.