Excellent video, Sir! I would love to try this on my army, but convincing a Tyranid to stand still long enough to get a tattoo doesn't sound plausible! Lol....
Part of the key with a steady hand is practice of course, but it's also a matter of setting yourself in place. Plant your feet, plant your elbows, lock your wrists and make sure the only thing you are moving is your hands or even better your fingers, that is how you get precise control.
@@emilymegan40 you mean "all" as in "all TWO of them"? So, both genders then... Sure. Why not? Vince is THE MAN. 👍 Even though many of us here enjoy painting imaginary fantasy-minis, we must all live in reality.
So there are several keys here, first, rinse your brush more, that means you are letting paints dry on your brush. Second, use the Masters Brush soap or something similar to clean and shape them. If they are getting hooks and natural hair (which shouldn't happen), then get some hair conditioner and use that to loosen the hairs and reshape.
I did my first free hand the other day on a yellow surface (black flames on yellow Bad Moons ork trukk) and it was nerve-wracking but I found that with practice on paper first to nail down the technique and brush and paint control its' very easy and repeatable The dream to paint rose and skull free hands on minis may come true one day for me.
That's awesome, you've done truly the hardest part - convinced yourself that you can do it. From here, it's just deliberate practice. The fear is always the hardest challenge.
Also, tattoos are not laser printed and skin is not paper. I'm pretty sure any traditional geometric tattoo is arrived at by a somewhat iterative process of making it look right rather than actual geometric precision! To the point about making corrections, I think it's worth saying explicitly that both colour and geometry perception is altered by scale. The precision with which you see small things is reduced, but also the ‘weight’ of details is nonlinear. This results in small font sizes traditionally having heavier strokes and larger serifs; and small patches of colour can look better if they're more vivid than truthful. Even locations of small details can be fudged, something that makes it possible (for example) to make a more or less legible font on a 3×5 grid of pixels, which you'd think could be ruled out on geometrical grounds, as long as those pixels are small enough(!). It's just a question of assigning ‘weight’ in places where the eye expects corners-trading intensity for real signal, as it were. +1, by the way, to the other voices saying that we'd like to see these kinds of things in a full range of natural (and other) skin tones.
Thanks Vince! I just want to say that I fund your channel about a week ago and have been watching a lot of your videos. Really amazing content and you've totally inspired my to get back into the hobby after about ten years. Just ordered an airbrush to give that a try and I'm wondering if you could do a super short video explaining flow improver vs airbrush thinner (or point me to a video that does so). Thanks again and keep up the amazing work.
First, that is awesome to hear! I love this hobby and it makes me so happy to hear you're getting back into it. I have a video on additives here (I am using a brush, but the same rules will apply with an airbrush) - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FuSFCiLvs1w.html My general recipe is 80/20 Vallejo Thinner to Vallejo Flow Improver. I mix it into a small bottle and use it at roughly a minimum of a 1-1 ratio, usually more if the paint is thicker.
@@VinceVenturella I've watched a couple dozen of your videos over the last week or so but apparently missed that one! Thanks again, you are a very inspiring artist and an excellent teacher. Looking forward to your future content!
Excellent Video! For alien or more fantastic flesh-tones, would you substitute the Bugmans Glow for the colour of your deeper/shadow tones used? For example, with Orcs or Tau?
So the answer is yes, and the general rule you would want across other skin tones is you are wanting to create contrast. So if you have a very dark colored green orc for example, then a bright white tattoo might look good, if it's a light green, it might be the same recipe here, but with the deep green replacing the bugman's glow. In any event, contrast is the goal that is going to make it pop.
It would serve fine, though you might want a little actual paint in there (just as you see me mix here), but Contrast has a lot of FLow Aid in it already, I've never tried it, but it seems it would work.
Great video and great work Vince, Hobby Cheating is my “go to” for techniques videos. Can I ask what proportion you mix the ink to acrylic, is it mostly ink or 50:50 or something else? And, more importantly, how much flow improver do you add to that? Thanks again
It's mostly something i do by feeling, exact recipes are going to vary based on the exact paint used, the ink, etc. That being said, 50/50 is a good rule of thumb, but the flow is whats important, when you test on the back of your hand, does it flow and is it still relatively solid in color (that goes for the flow improver which you use just a little).
wonderful! quick question: I'm in Italy and getting Pro Acryl here is nearly impossible (I could order from the US but I'd pay a ton for shipping just one paint). can it be replaced with any dark blue acrylic paint, or is there any characteristic (consistency, transparency, etc) in the Pro Acryl paint which makes it "mandatory"? thanks!
Answer me these questions three: You mention using a blue/black tone for caucasian skin tattooes due to the colour relationship with orange. What combo would you recommend for (i)dark human flesh, (ii)Orc flesh and (iii)Black-Orc flesh?
So if you are going for realistic tattoos on an african skin tone, in general, you would do the same thing as here (because it would all be inks). Now, that to the side, contrast is what makes a tattoo pop. So if you have a green orc or dark orc skin, you could use something like a white ink for the tattoos (think Savage orcs warpaint and why that pops so much). If you have a light green orc, you may want something just like this, but with a little green instead of bugman's glow. Whatever your skin tone, contrast is going to be the key to pop the tattoo out.
@@VinceVenturella Ah shit, I think I slightly mucked up the questions. I understand that the black ink and whichever fleshtone (Bugman's, Dark, Orc etc.) would be constant. I was more questioning what the blue/grey would be substituted for on other skin tones.
@@PatrickVS101 you might want to look at the color wheel. Blue is complementary to orange, and skintone is basically desaturated orange. So, for purple skin you would consider yellow, red for green, etc. It does not work in all occasions, of course, but still, general enough. Also, when it works, it does not always look natural, but it will pop. Sorry Vince for hijacking the thread, your videos just activate my tutor half each time.
I love this! I was wondering what to do it I messed up on the design , glad you went over that. Also, would you recommend using white ink for a light coloured tat on dark skin? I'm not sure how to go about trying that
Yes, I think that if you have a very dark skin, then doing a light color tattoo is going to work better. The key is contrast, that is what is going to make the tattoo stand out.
Or as freehand decorations on the robes of Ad Mech! But most often the traces begin and end with open circles. Not the easier to freehand reliably. He says after doing some image searches for "circuit board tattoos." So I think some modification to fit my lack of experience and technique will be in order.
It's a great question, the general rule would be you want to have contrast, tattoos on dark skin will show up best when they are of a lighter color. So any color can work, but the key is contrast. The exception is if you are going for realistic tattoos on a darker african skin tone, then you would still use something like what you see here.
Are there any Warcolours layer paints that'd be a pretty good analog to Bugman's Glow? I have that entire range, and I try to buy as little Citadel paint as possible.
