Good video. My advice to people is to spend $100 and buy a Umik1 and download REW to really understand what is going on in your room to optimize your setup. In my 2.1 music system, I added a sub because I got one for a great price and set it up initially using the sub crawl method ( modified because I used a SPL meter as well as my ears) the set the phase for max output. After running REW, I found that my towers had an F3 of ~ 20Hz in room by themselves. When I turned the sub on, a room mode peak around 50Hz or so got worse and the system sounded better without it. When I saw it added 4db to the peak, I figured reversing the phase could subtract from the peak since they are close to each other, and it did, flattening out the response while still keeping F3 at 20. Totally counter intuitive, but I would not have known without REW (it is hard to get a good curve plotting SPL meter readings) So my sub ended up acting as an electronic bass trap. Go figure. It did end up saving me $$ since I ended up not needing the MiniDSP I was going to get to fix the room mode since my Stereo amp does not have any room correction built in.
On the Marantz receiver it has Subwoofer 1 and Subwoofer 2. 1 RCA cable should go to your Left sub and the other to your right sub. Then the receiver will ask you how many subs you have so you choose 2 and let it know which is which in the GUI. Then you can set the parameters, after you do the microphone set up, to fine tune the subs based on the REI results. Happy home theater 😀
Great video, I'm thinking about adding a second subwoofer to my current home theater system (All Klipsch Speakers) I currently have the Denon 4700H avr receiver with a 10" wireless downfiring subwoofer, Can I add a second wireless subwoofer or wired would be better & How would I set up the subwoofers so they don't cancel out each other? Please keep those videos coming very informative👍🏾
The crossover does do something, when you put the 40hz the sub amp replies the frequency low notes only, if you tune it to 180hz its frequency responce is high frequency only, it will make rumble noise, sounds like your overpowering a subwoofer, you know?
I use a Panamax 5500 that a friend gave me many years ago. I also unplug my gear during lightning storms since Florida is the lightning capital of the world
It is also very important to use good quality cables. I was getting weird intermittent crackling and hums on my subs when watching movies or listening to music. Sometimes when everything was off, I could hear a very low hum in the room. would reseat the RCA cables from time to time to get everything working again. I ended up upgrading the LFE RCA cables to better quality shielded and immediately noticed a big improvement. Nice clean distortion free bass. No further issues with having to reseat connections. A inexpensive LFE RCA cable can really have you second guessing other much more expensive components.
I was originally using some very old 12ft RCA cables. When I got the subs. I was too much in a hurry to really think how old poor quality cables could possibly affect my equipment. My new RCA cables were only $10 each and the quality was much better. As always, your videos are awesome!
Great video. It would be nice to show different setups, like for example with more basic receivers, that most likely have parallel subwoofer outputs. How would I connect and setup for example a wired 10" Klipsch sub and another with the wireless receiver(15" sub). The distance is wrong with the wireless adapter. How would I calibrate something like that? I should do the microphone calibration with only one sub on? With both on, it confuses the receiver.
You should review the Tonewinner at-300. A dedicated pre/pro for $1,350 is a game changer if it is even close to processors costing 2 to 3 times as much.
the way i added a Sony explode 1000w was with a explode amp connected to a computer psu then in input to the sup output on my pioneer vsx-515 for some explosive bass, though not recommended in the city limits because its very bassy and any gaming they will hear the explosions that you would feel lol
can you go over the speedwoofer 12s? and if your av receiver subwoofer slot has 4 single hole rca plugs you just put it in the right lfe one? also whats the difference between unbalanced and balanced
Hey, sorry a bit late to this but trying to set up a sub that has no power whatsoever, just rca inputs/outputs . Do you have a video explaining this? Where do I connect this, to the receiver directly or from the speakers to the sub then to the receiver?
Hi sir need your expertise.... I have an RXA 3080 and a Psb 5i sub.... At the rear panel there is white and red (low level input from preamp) a LFE input crossover bypass switch....i run one sub RCA cable from amp to the low level input.... My question is prior to running ypao.. Must I switch on the LFE input? Tks
I’m hoping you or someone can help answer this question for me: I own a Behringer VQ1500d Powered PA Subwoofer. I also have a Denon AVR-S540BT receiver that I’m going to use for my home theater. Is it possible/safe to connect my Behringer subwoofer with xlr inputs to my receiver’s subwoofer Pre OUT?
I did not get it did i need rca splitter for my sub. I have 2 subs Jamo 410e . They are with 2 rca conectors. White conector is " Left (Mono)"" and red is "Right" did i need to use splitter or i just need to use only left (mono)
Hi for my setup: Denon AVR-4500H (125 watts at 8 ohm 2ch driven) Klipsch Rp 280fs (150W) Klipsch Rp 450c ( 150W ) Klipsch Rp 160m ( 100W ) Klipsch r-112sw SVS Prime elevation ( 20 - 150 W ) I was wondering if I need an external amp for my setup, if so which one would you recommend.
Hello, I have a pair of Bose 901's along with the EQ that they say must be used with the 901's How do I link all this to my surround sound? I know only enough to probably blow my speakers out.😬😲🤦♂️😱😱😱 Any Help Would Be Appreciated. BTW, Thanks For The Videos.😉👍
Question from the newby, who is thoroughly confused right now lol.....I have the Monoprice 8 in powered sub, and it came with 2 red and white plugs. On the back of my Fosi BT30D, 2.1 I have a subout on the left and 2 subouts on the right. The cables fit the sub out on the left, but it's only one output. and on the right where there is 2 out puts, the cables just don't fit. What can I do, or should do?
If I'm looking at the correct 8" Monolith sub online, you will see two sets of binding posts for "High Level Input". This is NOT what you would use if you have a subwoofer Out on your AVR. Those connections allow you to connect the sub to an AVR that does NOT have a sub out using banana plugs connected to speaker wire. Again, NOT what you need for your setup. Instead, use an RCA cable or a Digital Coax Cable to connect one end to the Sub out on your AVR and the other end to the subwoofer's Right Low Level Input or use a Y splitter like I showed in the video to connect to the L and R Low Level Input. Hope that helps!
@@Youthman Hey thanks for responding, but I have an update...I bought the Sony SCS8 I think that is the model. Everything is working, but I have a question...I bought banana plug and some 14 G cables. I connected everything and it does sound good, but my question is my banana plugs that I connected to the cable, they are not completely screwed together. I can screw so far but then that's it. There is a small gap between the top and the bottom...but I can hear everything and it sounds ok. I've got the Sony SSCS5 with the Subwoofer above. Will this set up, or is there a little tweak I should make. And I'm expericing the near field system...My speakers are about 3 feet from me.
Hey Youthman, Am thinking of going with 2 SVS Subwoofers, I see the SVS PB 2000 pro for 899.00 each and the SVS PB 3000 for 1399.00 each, How would you compare the 2000 pro to the 3000? And is the 3000 worth the extra 500 dollars?
@@monroethegreat7539 well when I went from the pb2000 not pro to pb3000 it redefined everything and now I feel the bass if this makes any sense. The output is on a total different level. I don't define it on a twice as powerful but it's the difference between hearing the bass and having it move your insides and the extra power makes them do it with no effort. Hope I helped bass is not like speakers and sensitivity its more about feeling and how they keep up with action. There are many videos on these 2 subs making more sense then me lol
@@taxi615 Thanks I appreciate the breakdown, I Haven't seen any videos with the new 2000 Pros head to head with the 3000, But I think I will go with the 3000 they sound phenomenal.
Hi. I have a subwoofer from bose acoustimass. It only has 4 normal speaker wire ports. Input left and input right, output left and out put right. So i guess it just intercepts the front left and right channels. what do i do in the speaker config. do i turn subwoofer on or keep it off and what frequency do i put the front speakers to? full band or a frequency. i’m new to this.
The BOSE Acoustimass is often referred to as a “bass module”. Connect your left and right speaker out on your AVR to the BOSE bass module inputs, and then left and right speaker out on the bass module to your speakers. As far as your AVR is concerned, you do not have a subwoofer. That setting is looking to use the Subwoofer preout connected to a Subwoofer that has an internal Amplifier. Your bass model is passive and does not have an internal amplifier. You would want to run your speakers at full range in this setup because you do not have a subwoofer connected to the sub preout.
@@Youthman Wow thank you so much i was little lost. If i buy a dedicated subwoofer now and connect that would the acoustimass bass module become useless? And would a dedicated sub make a big difference?
To be honest there are so many speaker and Subwoofer combinations that would easily outperform the acoustic mass system. As the name implies, it was designed for the masses, the general public that are not familiar with good sound. My recommendation would be to go listen to some speakers at your local AV store. We have magnolia in some of our best buys. Audio Advice and Worldwide Stereo are great options if you are close to one of their locations.
@youthman, your channel is awesome first of all. I've been a fan since I started my home theater project a year ago and watched so many of your awesome and helpful videos. I hope one day I can submit my home theater for your showcase. I want to know your thoughts on subwoofer cable extender, is it a good to do so or if so any extender out there on amazon would be good?
Typically it’s best to not extend cables when possible. You can buy a 35’ cable from MediaBridge for $17, it doesn’t make much sense to buy an adapter and extend a cable. amzn.to/42I2WoY (Amazon affiliate link)
Hey youthman I have a question regarding a receiever i just got. Its an aiwa mx z92 and on the back of it it says (IMP 16 + 16 Ohm) and SURROUND SPEAKERS and its a L R rca port. Im wondering what it is and how i would use it to connect some surround speakers is this a Pre out for an additional amp to be connected? Thanks.
@@Youthman Nice! its actually quite a good system i was blown away by its bass and how clear it was i am very pleased with it. Would be cool to see one on youthman channel once in the future who knows.
Thanks for the tips and sharing it with us .. I have Klipsch R-120Sw Subwoofer and I put the gain to 12 clock and the Phase to 0 and the crossover to the last .. in the Av receiver (RX-V6A) when I do the calibrate using Ypao it set to -10db but I feel this is incorrect so how much should I put the db for the sub in Av menu. and thanks a lot
That sounds perfectly correct. Klipsch speakers are very sensitive so the AVR has to turn the trim levels down significantly so that it can reach reference levels at 0dB on the AVR’s master volume. My trims are typically at -12dB. Check out this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g-GOvn6_um8.html
@@Youthman I have an old spare subwoofer with no LFE markings next to the input. As a test, I took up your suggestion and connected both L and Right using a Y connector. Sounds great with solid bass, plenty of realism and body. One can pick up some good tips on RU-vid videos. Thanks Youthman
Hi JF. There is no reason to connect both sub outs to a single subwoofer. The Sub out is a mono signal carrying all of the LFE content. Simply connect that to your subwoofer.
@@Youthman good evening sir, So I got the receiver, speakers, and the 13 thx ultra. Hooked it all up and all 5 speakers work fine. The sub however, no output. Any advice?
What are your thoughts on using various subwoofers of various sizes and brands for those of us who upgrade slowly over time? Does it hurt to keep your 8" sub in the room after you upgrade to a 10"-15" or find a Youthman deal online for a price you can't refuse? Whenever I see the phrase "no replacement for displacement" it's usually referring to multiples of the exact same sub which is not exactly how most people grow/upgrade their setup. Thanks.
Hi Greg, typically, an 8” sub isn’t going to benefit much when pairing it with a 15” sub. Nothing wrong with having different brand or different size subs in your setup. I just don’t recommend mixing ported with sealed subs. It can be done, but is much more difficult to integrate
Your 8" sub can handle the higher bass freqs and the new 12" sub can take over the low bass, under 80ish hertz. Distortion will be minimized big time. The only distortion you'd get in the bass zone would be from volume... but, your ears would be bleeding by then lol
Hey Michael, nice video. Always informative. But I'm confused regarding 2 subwoofer setup. So if you have 2 subwoofers then do you recommend to put rear subwoofer to 180 and front one to 0 degree ?? Thanks
I’m not an expert in subwoofer placement but it is my understanding that if you have one in the front and one in the rear you will likely need to have one of them out of phase (set to 180 degrees). As I mentioned in the video, it is always best to use REW and a calibrated microphone to see what settings provide you with the best frequency response in your room.
YT, thanks for this video. I just bought two THX 10 subs and plan on hooking everything up tomorrow. Monoprice suggests putting the level on THX when you first hook up the sub and run room correction. I know most people put it at 12 o'clock and make adjustments later. Any suggestions?
I put it on THX but I think I will experiment some more. After calibration, I checked everything with a SPL meter and bumped the trim on subs just a little. I’m slowly working my way to REW.
AVR’s have their own internal DAC. Higher end AVR’s use better DAC’s. I have never used an external deck so I’m not sure how that would integrate into an AVR
nice overview, btw, dont buy the cheapest cables, buy cables that are branded like amazon basics or monoprice etc, atleast they have a quality level, expensive cables are just fancy names and bling yet no extra quality
Guess it depends on the manufacturer. SVS uses the right (red) channel for their LFE. Typically if a sub doesn’t have an LFE labeled, I use a Y splitter and use both.
Some older subs required using both the L & R channels. You shouldn’t hear a difference using a Y unless the sub is setup to where it requires the use of both connections
I have never heard a difference other than XLR will typically be a few DB louder than when using RCA. Some guys have had a hum were able to switch from RCA to XLR to get rid of it.
I believe Channa has a video where he measured with a DB meter between XLR and RCA and he showed the difference. I’m not 100% that it was 3dB which is why I mentioned I believe it is 3dB
You are correct, longer runs is an additional benefit. That’s why they are used so often in pro audio. But you’re incorrect on XLR not having a higher gain than RCA. www.avsforum.com/threads/will-using-xlr-boost-the-db-of-speakers-slightly.1658441/ They are suggesting you gain a 6dB increase from XLR in this thread.
@@Youthman 4 mini dsp?!? That doesn't sound like a yourhman deal to me!! I was thinking buy some bulk lamp cord, hot wire a Sony Xplode 4000w car amp from 2002, and just run them free air behind the couch. Audio nirvana awaits 🤤
rule #1 if you have an subwoofer with an active module integrated ... you dont have a subwoofer. Buy passive woofers if you want performance. Small living room subs may be okay but a home cinema sub with active module ... wouldnt touch that in my home cinema.
To each his own. although there is nothing wrong with separating the amp from the woofer, it’s not a prerequisite for performance. My JTR Captivator RS2’s. are flat down to 5Hz.
@@Youthman 5hz would be a wavelenght 225.0656 feet long. I honestly doubt that is anything a normal room can handle. Even a large hall would still be problematic. If you wanna absorb a frequency you need around 1/4th of the lenght as thicness for absorber material. For bass our ears are less sensitive so some would think u need less. Thing is you dont hear 5hz anyway but feel it. Which is another beast of it own. I honestly dont know why i would want frequencies below 20hz because you CAN tune a subwoofer down to that hertz but your overall subwoofer performance would be better if you dont tune it that low. A subwoofer has 2 maybe 3 octaves of good performance while being absolutly great at a bit more then 1 octave maybe. But i did see your videos about your setup. I never had a chance to listen to JTR and everyone does it own thing with those speakers. So i dont really have any basis on how they actually sound. If you ever end up in germany, your welcome to visit. will offer you a demo in my fully self build home cinema. Every speaker is designed by myself for the room, fully active. Not sure how many channels i end up with, because iam currently on my hunt for good and cheap used amplifier but i have around 40 channels already and aim for 60 in a 7.x.4 setup. Multiple amplifier per speaker so i have no crosstalk in between. Does need alot of electronics and is a real cable mess ( didnt count but if i end up with a mile of speaker cable i would not be shocked)
@@Youthman its way more complicated and can be extremly expensive but it offers incredible Routing options. If something breaks you Gotta invest a lot of time potentially to fix it. I would not recommend it to anyone because if your not coming up with the Idea of fully active yourself, you dont know enough about the topic yet. Atleast for home cinema. A stereo setup is way easier Since you dont need a ridiciouless amount of Channels and dsp. If you have the Chance to Show Otter fully active Systems i would love to See what others Do with it. Appreciate the Replies. Have a nice week
