Please be more gentile with post-fermented beer! Transfer to bottling bucket with a tube/siphon from the fermenter into the bottling bucket! You completely oxygenated your brew! Cheers! Nice vid!
Skim off the hot break as it forms and continue to remove it until it stops forming or drastically reduces before adding bittering hops. The extract is cleaner and less hops are needed. To reduce hot break: When the bottom of the boiler is covered with extract stop adding extract and fire the boiler. When the extract begins to boil add a small amount of hops or a handful of crushed black malt and very slowly add more extract without stopping the boil. Skim off the hot break as the boiler fills. It's a trick from way back. Hops and black malt reduces surface tension and that's about all there is about first wort hops. Less worry about boil over and the boiler can be filled higher. It's chemically and enzymatically impossible to produce ale and lager by soaking malt in hot water at a single temperature. It requires more than liquefaction and saccharification to make ale and lager. The method produces chemically imbalanced wort which is responsible for the off flavors associated with homebrew. If you are purchasing high quality brewers grade malt, the single temperature method doesn't take advantage of the malt. The high temperatures denature the enzymes. The decoction method or the step mash method should be used, preferably, the decoction method. The decoction method produces authentic ale and lager. The step mash method produces pseudo ale and lager. The single infusion method produces moonshiners beer. You left out conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization and produced moonshiners beer instead of ale. The single infusion method is used for making whiskey. Marris Otter, Halcyon and Golden Promise are traditional varieties of barley harvested for making whiskey. If your preference is making moonshiners beer use Marris Otter or six row malt. There are a few maltsters making Marris. Obtain the spec sheet from each maltster and purchase the Marris that contains the lowest percentage of protein. There is one company making 8% protein Marris, use that malt. The lower the percentage of protein the higher the sugar content. The lower the modification the richer in enzymes. Homebrew malt is high modified malt. The higher the modification the closer the seed comes to being a plant and the enzymes are beaten to death during germination. For that reason, high modified malt is used for making whiskey.
Cool video! Thanks for sharing! I might end up with a Brew Monk. Normally I worry about post-fermentation oxidation (trying not to expose my beer to oxygen after end fermentation), but it almost looks like you're trying to opposite (e.g. at 11:20)?
Well, you are right. This was not the best way to get the beer into the next bucket. I was a little bit in hurry and forgot some hoses. But at the end the Ale was great! ;-)
PalmPower Brewery Hast Recht, hätte man drauf lassen und so das Wasser gut verteilen können. Evtl. nur später um den Treber etwas zu lockern rausnehmen müssen.
Hi! What evaporation rate do you have boiling at 2500W? I'm boiling at 2200 and I've noticed an 11% hourly rate (very high) and I've found some scorched flours in the bottom of the pot.. Ever happened to you?
Hi. Latest i used the 2500W to reach the boiling temp. Later i reduced it to 2200 too. I had the same rate as you had. And yes, sometimes i also had little amount of scorched flours.
Hi, der Gäreimer wird mit viel heißem Wasser und Schwamm geschrubbt, danach inne Spülmaschine. Flaschen werden gleich nach dem Austrinken 2x gespült, vor Abfüllung mit Flaschenbürste gereinigt(sind aber durchs 2x Spülen noch super sauber!), und erneut mit Wasser gespült. Manchmal gehen sie noch in den Ofen zum Desinfizieren. Brauequipment wird auch mit Schwamm und viel Wasser solange geputzt bis alles sauber ist, dann nochmal mit nem Spül-Tab gekocht. Bisher reichte das völlig aus. VG
Moin und Gruß nach Lübeck! Habe den Klarstein heute das erste mal überhaupt entdeckt. Wollte ursprünglich den Grainfather kaufen. Kennst du die größten Unterschiede der beiden Geräte? Scheinen ja von der Funktion ziemlich identisch zu sein. Frag mich wie der riesige Preisunterschied zu Stande kommt...?! Gruß aus Bremen!
Moin, den Grainfather kenne ich jetzt leider nicht detailliert. Vom Prinzip sind beide gleich. Ich weiß nur, dass der Grainfather aus Neuseeland kommt, und der Klarstein aus China! ;-)
Hi I got this boiler recently and am confused by a couple of things. What is the second grate for? I understand the one at the base, but there is also a second one that I have seen used in diagrams. Secondly do you have any tips on preventing the heating element from burning sugars each time I brew? It often causes it to trip the electrics. And finally the pump, this keeps struggling away due to the volume of grain (only 4kg), as if the water can't pass through to the circulator hole at the bottom. I have to stir the mixture myself every two minutes during the mash to ensure water passes through the grate Any tips appreciated Thanks
The upper grate can be used to make the liquid fall over the grain more uniform, both during mash and during sparging. During sparging it also limits the contact with oxygen. The burning on the bottom can be due to excess heat (try reducing the power) or the excess work by the pump, the bottom of the kettle remains only partially filled with liquid because the fall rate from the grains is lower than the extraction rate from the pump: this can cause the burning on the bottom, and also the tripping of the emergency break, and also the irregular working of the pump that you experience. Try reducing the pump flow by partially closing the tap which is near the camlock.
danke für deine info. habe mit meinem mundschenk (erst 2 sude) so meine mühe. habe nach einem rezept mit 16liter auptguss und 14 liter nachguss versucht. lies sich nicht richtig einmaischen und ich massiv zu wenig stammwürze erhalten.
It is more likely 24 ltr. The scale in the Brew Monk tank is incorrect. I have measured it up, and if you want to apply water up to the 20 ltr. mark , you´ll have to use 24 ltr. That will makes things different from the above mentioned recipe, which says 17 ltr. for mashing and 11 ltr. for sparging. I have made some 20 brews on the Brew Monk, and everytime I get frustrated how to relate to the fact, that 7 ltr. are under the false bottom. Where does these amount fit in? Somehow the mash gets thinner and you need less sparging water, or what am I missing?
