I made the cogwheel an alternative method, after which he successfully took his place to work in the mechanism. Here there is a method of homemade silicone, it is gelatin + glycerin in a ratio of 1: 1.
I've always been amazed at the work you guys from Eastern Europe can do. I would never have thought to use gelatin as a mold to copy a part and make a wax pattern. This has to be one of the best examples of skill, experience, and cleverness replacing money i.ve ever seen.
Us people...we are not defined by our limitations...we are defined by our potentials. Creators of Trabant have my appreciation more than creators of Veyron.
This was due to the long years under the rule of the Soviet Union in eastern europe. In the West you could simply buy something, here you had to arrange it. They still do in Russia.
This is a genius fix, really. The gelatin mold probably cost 1/20th of casting silicone, and it worked well enough. Likewise using random candle wax for the casting. For the people down voting, I'm reminded of a quote of what an engineer is by a co-worker - an engineer is somebody that can do for $5 what any random person could do for $50. This thing isn't going to space...as long as it doesn't jam and the teeth don't strip, it's fine. Nice work.
The difference between a parts changer and a true mechanic was demonstrated here. You are obviously on a remote site. I am a journeyman union Millwright . Respect to you!!
You will be more surprised, when you find out that audi wother pump impeller made out plastic, that's why they break up, pritty much all new car is junk from the factory, they disine to fale at curtain mileage, not like good old engeeniring.
The plastic gear is a safety feature, it's a sacrificial part. The door as it is now might cut someone in half. Odds are, the part was manufactured for a Western European market with much milder ocean-influenced climate and actually lasts a considerable time there; but extreme temperatures of Russia aren't particularly kind to it. PA is the most common material for gears due to high toughness and abrasion resistance, but it gains it by absorbing water, it's strongly hygriscopic. And what happens when you freeze water? Well it doesn't behave quite like water in a container , there is some leeway due to how water molecules are suspended, so a bit below freezing point is still safe, but freeze it deeply enough, the polymer will get torn apart from the inside.
It is true, gelatin goes with everything! Excellent job of creation. What a legacy. Fire, metal, sparks, this video has everything. Love the heavy timber roof beams in your other videos & others will have to watch all to find this clue.
@@prestigeworld-wide8292 i can see why it's older than injection molding, because it's limited to quantity. Great for homebrew then in these day and age. The use of Off-the-shelf material is quite innovative. Because they aren't purposely used for industrial and it is readily available.
I assume that you live in what was once part of the Soviet Union? I remember a tale from long ago when some student friends were allowed to visit, driving their old (so probably mark 1) Land Rover , part way through the journey the engine ‘died’, but they were rescued by the local engineer who adapted an engine they had by connecting it to the Land Rover gearbox, so that my friends could drive home. I have been impressed by the skill and ingenuity of those engineers ever since!
в каждом русском живёт инженер, а всё из за расстояния страна большая, чтото случается и нужна помощь прямо сейчас, ждать подмоги можно но это долго а иногда и жизнь зависит от этого, решать проблему нужно немедленно, вот и приходится знать всё подряд
@@djyownder109 they won the war because hitler didnt listen to his generals. The german military would have been literally unbeatable if it wasnt for hitler throwing tantrums lol
WOW! we print 3d and then melt out and fill with metal - but that requires pre-engineering a solid model - what a nice shortcut - thank you for both innovation and sharing!!!
@@LimabeanStudios When PLA catches fire, the smoke and fumes are low toxicity, while many plastics are exceptionally dangerous to burn. So you can burn PLA out safely rather than trying to melt it out.
This is an ancient technique I read about glass blowers would do back in Ancient Greece glad to see it still being used today, way cheaper than having a metal lathe
Чувак, ты сделал мой день! Все берут силикон, но нас не победить, мы используем желатин! Класс! Решение на поверхности, но блин, мешает зашоренность мышления.Я вот никогда бы не додумался взять его для изготовления модели. Спасибо!
Это спиженное видео, человек из Украины, канал у него называется "простые штуки " Даже на ведре имеется данная подпись 👍😂Ну или это его второй канал Англоязычный
My mother was a “Lost Wax Process" Bronze sculptor, and she did what was basically the same process at a bronze foundry to make her art. With one difference, She allowed the liquified bronze to displace the wax from the mold during the pour. Maybe it’s the size or more intricate detail, but she told me that purging the wax beforehand could cause air pockets to form, compromising the final form. Displacing the wax with the bronze directly helped to eliminate gaps. I’m not critiquing your process! Promise! I’m just curious. I’ve never met anyone else who does this. My mom was the only woman in the USA that did a sculpture that way. ( She passed away 5 years ago ) and I don’t think there are very many men left that do the process anymore either. I’m very impressed Most people cannot do what you just did by themselves in a fully equipped foundry. My jaw dropped. You get serious artistic street cred!
Loved how you did this with almost no equipment i am an proffesional jeweller and cast a lot the the basic technique is the same but i got all the fancy equipment loved this vid
Спасибо, что научили меня самодельному силикону. Мне нужно попробовать это как недорогой литейный материал. Отличная работа! Thank you for teaching me homemade silicone. I need to try this as an inexpensive casting material. Great job!
Well done video. Beautiful result. I thought about doing this, but I found a gear for my old garage door opener on EBay. It was considerably easier. I guess I'm just lazy.
What is the clever? How much cost that spare part? How much you earn per our? This is not clever this is stupid lost time! In my country we say priest with out job baptized goats.
@@borivojetravica569 When you live somewhere that takes 4-6 weeks to get a part + shipping costs its actually not wasted time, because not only has he replaced the gear but he replaced it with a metal one that's going to last his entire life preventing future breakdowns, so really it's actually justified time. 3D printing it out of metal would of been faster, or using a lathe and a drill press etc but who's got that kind of tooling and money laying around
I've actually never cast something, but perhaps in the future a riser (tall column at exit of casting cavity to hold molten metal) would help with smaller details like those teeth. I believe the blunt teeth are due to shrinkage, and mostly surface tension of the molten aluminium. The tall column (if wide enough) will stay molten long enough to supply metal as the (presumably small enough) casting cools / shrinks and most importantly (if high enough) put the casting under higher pressure to help overcome the surface tension and force the metal closer to the walls - making a more dimensionally accurate end part. That is my reasoning anyway. Still it is cool idea you had there to extend the teeth as you did, and it appeared to work. After the lathe cleanup, it looked great.
First cast shows what happens when you don't fire plaster mold. there is chemical water embedded in the plaster, and needs firing to remove. When molten metal hits it, it boils and steam vapors are released, so pressure builds up internally and the metal can't hit the surface it needs to. If you are really silly and try this with much higher temperatures as in bronze and brass, you will likely get much more reactive and explosive results. I know this intimately from first hand experience. A small figure cast this way made it through the process, but it was riddled with air pockets like a sponge, and molten brass was spitting out of the mold for quite some time and distance. A case of run like shit until it stopped. I can estimate if the shape was bigger, and let's say was more undercut, it would have exploded fully.. a dangerous job to mess with without proper knowledge!
@@dougaldhendrick3497 I can appreciate what you're saying about water in the casting plaster as I joined a craft guild in Annapolis MD, Patuxent Lapidary Guild for a Lost Wax casting class. For some long lost reason, maybe the vacuum dome machine was not in service or being used by someone else and it could've been at closing time, nonetheless my mold had much porosity. And the last of 3 projects a ring with grain of wood and a 10X30 cabochon of reticulated quartz i.e. gold hair-sized rods in a clear base of quartz looks beautiful! Well the ring broke from bubbles in the mold and that was the last wax of that pattern inventory we had. I might try to repair the ring to make a new wax as it's not currently in any book I've looked at, probably old!
As someone who has done casting, I can tell you that you are right about the surface tension. It is very high for molten aluminum. A riser on the sprue and vent will build more pressure in the cast, forcing the aluminum into smaller details.
Everyone: The original gear may have been made out of nylon in order to make sure it broke before damaging something else - like the hand or leg of whoever was unlucky enough to get caught on the sliding door! Great video non the less!
Thats why they beat the germans, while the germans where mini producing super complex tanks with lots of complex processes... They where making thousand of tanks out of duct tape, melted pipes and wax xD
@@StoneCoolds Uh, German tanks were also rediculously more effective, to the point were the Tiger tank was pretty much invincible against the T34 and forcing the Soviets to use "sawed off" artillery guns in their tanks.
Rex Baird I don’t know about you, but I’ve had it all my life. Don’t tell me something can’t be done. I’ve have had engineers tell my stuff I did wasn’t supposed to work, but I made it work!
I played this video very much. You are a real master, thank you, hello from Russia, I really love DIY. Happy New Year, health and happiness to you and your loved ones
Very well done. Only thing is that very often, when plastic and metal parts are used for a mechanism, the plastic parts are usually designed to be the weak point that's cheap and easy to replace, that way the metal parts that are harder/more expensive to replace are less likely to break. No idea if that's the case with this, just something to keep in mind
That is true but seeing how the garage door has to work in freezing conditions where ice can accumulate on the tracks, this kind of cheap plastic gear seems... not ideal. To put it mildly. Cold temperature itself makes plastics brittle and compounded by any kind of resistance on the tracks seems like as a part that has to be changed constantly. Cold always makes everything more expensive and i would have went with some kind of load resistor that cuts power if things get stuck.
In most cases parts-breaking is a terrible way to give a safety feature/characteristic. There are other ways to do this that aren't self-destructive (clutch and/or stall sensing for the motor are two that can be used together - and cheap).
as i thought. There is no way that american/european fatass would understand what is a feeling to make something by own hands, especially when it has purpouse or is needed
@@antares-the-one If you live in south america like me, you'll find very nasty ways of doing things as well.. but from a practical perspective, i'd go for the 2.59e spare part
I've used clear builder silicone (RTV one-part) mixed with a few drops of glycerine and a dab of food colouring to make casting moulds. The colouring is used to check whether the glycerine is fully mixed through.
My guess is that the plastic gear was there as a failsafe so that if excessive torque was applied to the device that the gear would break rather than burning out the motor or destroying whatever was blocking the gate.
An electrical motor should be protected with current limiter, and a detection of lock with electronics too. This plastic piece has no place here, except making maintenance activity for the maker of the system that will come every 18/20 months change quickly that piece and charge you. easy money.
@@vieuetcon Kind of depends on the quality of the manufacturer and torque of the motor. For example, the powerfeed on a mill is powerful enough to break a lot of things that aren't connected to it directly, so they use plastic gears so you don't break a tool or something.
Super video, to have heated the mold before pouring the aluminum was a very good idea. I'm melting copper myself and it's going to serve me to have a cleaner result 👍
Great casting work I think you should be either in the jewellery or art business. On the other hand the plastic gear may have been intentionally the weak point in the system almost like the fuse in the wiring system. Metal gear equals no fuse. It's always nice to have a weak spot in the system that can break and be easily replaced.
I agree but the mechanical fuse should be cheap unlike full gear. Maybe the part that engages with the gear should be a stick of aluminium or even plastic? That would allow having full metal gear with full metal axle and the connection that transmits torque could be e.g. 40 mm long stick of 8 mm thick aluminium bar which would snap if too much torque is applied for whatever reason.
Very cool, and what a project. Imagine the steps you could save by scanning the part or drawing it in a solid modeling program, and 3D printing one. I'm in such a college class this semester. There are some pretty durable materials that could be used, especially with one of our resin printers. Our college also just received a 3D metal printer that is the cat's meow. Guess who's going make some stainless steel tools for a diving kit.
As I like working with casting and making things, it always gets me to laugh -> Homemade. You only need lathe, mill, whole workshop and furnace :D Anyways - nice clip :)
Nice save, I worked in the family jewelry store, the lost wax method of making a mold works great, where there is will & time there is a way to save machines like this. I've been wondering how to cast aluminum, this shows me how. Thanks, great work.
0:01;!Yes good one ,but when you work in the mines need to wait for spare parts up to two weeks losing your incentives no 3 d printer this is best option;!
As others have pointed out, having the plastic gear in there is an excellent design element for safety reasons. The problem is that manufacturers hardly ever advertise and have replacement parts (+ service) readily and easily available to consumers.
Just a stupid question, and I understand this was a learning process, but would it not be easier to just make the wheel on the lathe, seeing as you have one?
Well done! The reason for that gear was made in delrin, tough, is that in moving gears a weak one is needed: if something goes wrong or is overstressed, the weakest one breaks, saving most expensive one (a geared rail costs more than a single gear). Now if something goes wrong the risk is breaking the rail...
@@phillhuddleston9445 it's is aluminum. if that was molten iron you would be seen yellow-white glow as the melting temperature for iron is insane high (about 3000°F, vs 1100°F of aluminum). also, there should be sparks randomly generated if was iron or steel. and you would never be able to melt it with that weak of a forge, you need an arc furnace.
Very cool video man! I’ve seen a few like this one, and you used slightly different materials to make your mold but it’s cool to see there are several ways to get the job done. Was the broken gear HMW plastic or Nylon 66? Just wondering. Manufacturers often make a part like that to be a weak link on purpose, I guess so it breaks or strips out instead of something else. At least you know now it ain’t the weak link anymore!
Aluminium would pretty much break or wear out the same. Maybe it will crush your arm or foot in the door now, before tooth melt or break. I don't think anyone in Easter Europe would care that much. the plastics is likely PLA. At best PA12 Nylon or ABS. Had such a gear in my milling machine Einhell MT-65 aka Minimill clone. Replaced it with a tothed belt and a §D printed PLA belt. The SLS laser printed PA12 nylon should have been better, but the print process heat in the closed shop microcontroller software is less than ideal. So that wore out quickly. This technique would have allowed to cast either plastics or alumium for a direct internal gearbox replacement. If it had niot been for the belt drive to be the better long term option anyways I would have gone for such a replacement cast as well. It is simple genius.
перчатки с дырками это нормально, наверняка новые лежат в ящике но брать их никак нельзя вить старые ещё не рассыпались, это не скупость а бережливость
@@daveharr7969 valid point! The cast gear will break sooner I suspect... Looking at its use,noise shouldn't be a huge factor though. Probably sneaky shit being as likely?
While gelatin was a brilliant move, if you want a slightly more expensive option and need to cast more than one copy, get yourself a six pack of home improvement store variety 100% silicone caulk and a small can of MEK. Mixing what you can use within 15 minutes or so, squirt in 1/4 to 1/2 the caulk tube at a time and an ounce (or your measurement system of choice) to thin the silicone, mix it up to where it's pourable, and pour as usual around your chosen part. In a few hours after the MEK evaporates, you'll have yourself a very fine detail mold. Not skin safe, but works fantastic for making parts, figure casts, etc.
@@bill3835 As long as the MEK fumes don't drift into the house, she'll be happy as pie. =) Compared to commercial brands like smooth-on, I suspect their molds will have a longer shelf life but this costs a quarter of a two part system. I made an entire silicone bodysuit that went over a lycra base that I molded on top of twill weave fiberglass (treated with the same silicone method to pick up the pattern for a flexible carbon look) and it worked great, plus I still have that suit after 5 years plus, and the treated fiberglass that I've used for gaskets and non-stick bases on other projects. You can also color the silicone with pigments as you would a commercial product. That whole suit probably cost me ~$50 in supplies, including the fiberglass, brushes, rollers, rubbermaid containers, etc. That much silicone in commercial grade would have come out well over $300, product only.
When I was second year student, we did some kind of aluminium part in soil, soil-method(idk how is it called in english). It seemed to be weird but the process was cool. The funny part was that our lecturers were students obtaining their master's degree so firstly they hadn't heat aluminium to proper temperature so we've got it on second try. Nice job, keep up the good work! Now about lubrication - as I see it's blue, what lubricant do you use?
SAF-NSK In US probably is called Sand casting. Very common process. I think Aluminum is mostly done with Lost Wax process. We also used to have Stainless castings made with Lost Wax. At B/E Aerospace.
Nice work. I can not read Cyrillic characters, so can you please tell me if it was plaster or something else you used to invest the wax. I once did lost wax like that in my kitchen oven, and when I poured lead into the hot plaster it exploded and burned the floor. Since then I know to burn out plaster several days in a very hot kiln to drive away the molecular water, so no steam and no explosion (I also bury in sand now). I enjoy all your videos.
A bit misleading, as it isn't anything close to silicone. It doesn't have near the flexibility or can take the repeated abuse that silicone can. Gelatin glycerin molds are used in the art world for making quick duplicates, it can be melted over and over and used again. Whereas when silicone is cured, there's no do overs. But gelatin glycerin is also very sensitive to heat and moisture. So you have to be aware of that with your materials, or it'll deform while you are trying to make a replica if too much heat is generated when curing or it is sensitive to moisture (resins).
how stupid is it to build a gear out of plastic for this machine, i mean they probably sell it for shit loads of money, but u made it better with ur own gear, now it will last for ever until the next plastic part will just break. Good work my friend, tnx for sharing.
because plastic is pretty much inmune to weather (unless very extreme temperatures are reached). and pretty decent wear resistance. so they work ok as long as you dont load them a lot or gets damaged with sunlight.