Homemade Mushroom Steriliser | DIY Barrel Mushroom Steriliser | Homemade Bubba Barrel 

No worries mate! Best of luck!

Cheers! PC's are great for finding your feet, they allow you to scale and learn without the massive amount of space BS sterilisers require!

I've seen insulation range from nothing to neoprene. Anything is better than nothing really and this radiator insulation was freeeee! The real winner is a PID.

Hey bob. I'll get a video of my HEPA up for you soon! Edit: It's up - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1TDO6K30bXg.html

Top! Let us know how it goes!

@@ArchersMushrooms will do

How good did they work mate?

I used something called a KNockout punch tool! Cheers!

Hi there, it's atmospheric so it won't hold any pressure. If you do manage to get them to hold pressure, i'd imagine only about 5psi before it leaks from the welds or the crimps give out. Either way, it's not advisable to use them under pressure! Cheers!

I don't use it for grain. I use my PC's for my grain as grain has a more readily available nutrition for contamination to latch onto, best to ensure everything is sterile with grainspawn.

Thanks buddy! Best of luck.

Hey! Sorry for the late reply! I don't have a step by step instruction but if you want to hit me your Skype/Number through the contact section of my website archersmushrooms.co.uk/contact or mushroomarchers@gmail.com we can have a chat and I can kind of walk you through how I did it and the parts I used!

I wouldn't pressurise it! When I put some mild back-pressure on it, the lid bows enough to keep me from going further!

K G yes, search for “mushroom growers UK” he’s a regular contributor to the page 😉

I'm sure that would work!

Hi mate! I'll be doing a video in the next few months in the mean time you can look up a tool called a 'knockout punch' there are some great videos on how to use them! The element has a few seals to keep it water tight! Hope that helps! All the best!

Hi mate, You can, it's a common thing, see this blog post I made about a guy who did just that. archersmushrooms.co.uk/matt-smalls-blue-barrel-fermentation-tek/ A bit more of a pain in the backside to clean when it's done. It also doesn't make full use of the available substrate, thats why logs and straw logs have a recommended diameter of about 8" - 12" for the ideal use, anything more is just a waste! Good luck!

@@ArchersMushrooms could you put a solid plastic pipe inside the 55 gallon barrel to creat an empty inertior of say 10 inches so that you would not waste material? i see this method as a good step forward for not using a bunch of plastic bags.

Hiya, good luck mate. 1 - Exactly, you can use a PID and a thermocouple to automate this process, theres lots of wicked home-brew style guides to help setting various ones up. You could also drill a hole in the side 2 - You will need to make yourself an exhaust. I’d suggest using something like a ½” ball valve with some ½” NPT fittings which I think the USA uses. You can then attach a hose to the exhaust and vent it out of the window. 3 - You can, it’s called a PID but you don’t have to have one, it’s just more economical having one switch off and on rather than solidly one. Like I said earlier, homebrew channels have great guides. Best of luck, any problems give me a shout.

@@ArchersMushrooms thank you for your input and the timely response. Looking forward to Future videos of yours!

Hello mate. You have to ensure that all the bags are held at around 100c for approximately 5 hours. More bags in the sterliser means it takes longer to get all the bags up to temperature. Depends on a few variables like bag size/type, element, insulation, weather but you may well have to run a full sterliser for 24 hours in order to achieve the correct temperatures. If you could get this up to 15psi (which you wouldn't because it's not a pressure vessel) you'd need to hold it at 121c for 90 minutes but again this may take hours to get to temperature/pressure. All that energy has to be absorbed by the bags/sub first and thats what takes the time since substrates are generally 'insulated' materials. i.e. wood/straw etc... What we're doing with these atmospheric 'sterlisers' is really Super Pasturising as it doesn't achieve textbook sterliising but it works just the same. Hope this helped!

@@ArchersMushrooms it does thank you. I was thinking I wanted to try a wood burner model first, pretty much skip all the gadgets. I typically have a lot of scrap wood to burn. If it didn't work I would convert it to this model.

@@powaowa1 Just build some kind of insulation for the fire. You'll be tending it for about 16 - 24ish hours so you'll want it to be as efficient as possible. You could always build a burner barrel that you just use to boil water and then use a hose to inject steam into another barrel. This way you avoid the possibility of burning some bags if the flames get too high and you have more control over the whole process. If there is a problem you just have to disconnect the steam rather than stop the whole process and take it off the fire. Would need two barrels though.

@@ArchersMushrooms It's worth buying a 85 gallon bubba barrel from bubba's barrels and buy all stainless and not have to worry about it. Sterilization is the crutch because it takes along time and alot of work. I know it's not exactly close to cheap like not stainless and I've done both. It was well worth spending the money to use stainless. Never have to mess with it and I spent lots of time making, painting, repairing, replacing etc. They always break and need work that takes time and money and it adds up. Spend the money and sell mushrooms as hobby until it pays itself off at farmers markets. You get top retail price at farmers markets and you can pay yourself back pretty quickly. You know how to do it I can see with this barrel so will be rewarding for you if you like to grow mushrooms.

@@working2bselfsufficient724 You’re right, a stainless-steel barrel is ideal but not generally affordable to people coming into this as a hobby. Sterilisation is the crutch, but this barrel achieves the exact same thing as a bubba barrel. You’re right about them needing maintenance, it is a pain in the ass. But then again so is de-calcifying any steriliser. I’ve never had it break because what can break? I’ve upgraded my float valve to a SS one and that’s about all that I’ve had to do so far except the odd dab of paint. If this barrel busts, I can buy a nearly new one again for £12. This is perfect for an cheap way into the hobby/small time grower but as you expand, you’re right you need that reliability from a steriliser, just not a bubba barrel since they’re hellishly expensive, I’ll be upgrading to a SS barrel when this one eventually breaks but it’s not a big leap. These barrels take 20 minutes to put together I wouldn’t advise anyone entering this hobby to buy a bulk steriliser at the start. It would be better off you are spending your money on a HEPA and using straw logs.

Mains water from the hose!

That was a Facebook marketplace find or a Gumtree one. In the next few weeks i'll have a new video about my new barrel i'm making!

Hi mate - just finished my new write up. Hope it helps! archersmushrooms.co.uk/how-to-build-a-drum-steriliser-for-mushroom-growing/

@@ArchersMushrooms thank you so much!

Yup. Fine outdoors! The bags tend to 'self-seal' so will be fine if left undisturbed after the cycle has finished.

Nah, I didn't put one in, in the end. I got one off eBay for about £15 though. The PRV isn't really necessary as they sort of 'tactically leak' from the seal if the barrel is a bit older which prevents any pressure buildup. I think by the time you would trigger a PRV the barrel would of exploded long before.

Lol ohhhh ok mate thanks for the reply :) I must have added 4 more hits on the video just looking for that lol Cheers mate all the best!

Hi mate, I got it from here originally. www.angelhomebrew.co.uk/kettle-elements/97-24kw-ss-kettle-element-kit.html It's simple to secure, just punch a hole out and easy peasy! If you hang fire, i've got a new video/blog coming out on a new barrel I have just built Cheers!

Hi mate! I got mine from eBay. There are lots if you search in 'homebrew categories' . However, this is the one I use! ebay.to/2S9lRqh Cheers!

That's a tidy looking bit of kit..I'm just abt to do the first run through of mine but I just used a £20 element from toolstation..its prewired with a thermostat which maxes out at 70 but I just bypassed it. I will buy the one you've recommended for the next build. Thanks.

Hi mate, it's exactly that. I wrote a post on it! It's not textbook sterilisation but it's as good as it needs to be. archersmushrooms.co.uk/pasteurising-vs-sterilising-when-mushroom-growing/ Cheers!

I just realised we spoke in FB too. World is small after all.

Hi Steven, I got it from here originally. www.angelhomebrew.co.uk/kettle-elements/97-24kw-ss-kettle-element-kit.html It's simple to secure, just punch a hole out and easy peasy! If you hang fire, i've got a new video/blog coming out on a new barrel I have just built! Take it easy!

@@ArchersMushrooms thanks - a real help. I look fwd to your next video.

@@ArchersMushrooms hi again. Your video has really helped me. Is your new barrel radically different from this? I need to press on making a barrel as I’ve wasted too much time using a pressure cooker. Cheers.

@@stegorst Good luck mate - Just finished the blog. Vlog will be up in the coming weeks. archersmushrooms.co.uk/how-to-build-a-drum-steriliser-for-mushroom-growing/ Have a read of that! Cheers!

Ebay mate. Something like this ebay.to/39y0khy Cheers.

Get yourself a PID controller, this will keep the temperature continuous as well as the pressure. I've made a newer barrel where I put a lowered lid in the ceiling to act like a spacer. You can see it here imgur.com/a/3xcxDWs There is one hole in the middle with a valve ontop to control the outflow! You could get a pressure relief valve, just make sure its low enough.

But still i guess, the heating element should work all the time if i want to hold 100 degree inside the steamer. I'm not very handy with this kinda work, but not idiot either. So as PID controller, does it help a lot, or just for safery just in case the temperature or pressure goes up to much? Anyway I just texted you in tour website. 👌👍

@@siliuksas2533 The PID control is to hold the barrel at a set temperature, generally around 95c is a realistic holding temperature. If you left your element running for 12 to 18 hours you would waste a lot of electricity because once the barrel and substrate is up to temperature it insulates itself quite well. So the pid is just to top up the temperature at that point. It's not really to do with safety, more efficiency. Does that make sense?

@@ArchersMushrooms So usually I don't need to run element whole 12-18hours, with PID controller manages its self to keep the temps as I like to. So what kinda PID controller i need to look for, i guess it should be which can measure over 100degree? Sorry for dumb questions, better ask do good, not after regret what is done 😁

I keep it clean with red oxide primer. When it rusts, I brush it down with a wire brush and re-paint that area. It's not exactly as simple as a SS barrel but it's a damn sight cheaper!

Thanks for the reply, I am happy to know cheap non stainless can be protected from rust, beautiful color too, if I use that I may put back my first drum to function to use it while the SS drum is cooling down. For my non SS drum I used some kind of industrial zinc-rich rust primer, but I gave up when I saw it was falling apart when heated and smelling so strong I was worried of possible toxicity (leaches in the substrate and mushrooms and fumes for me using it indoors). Did you use an epoxy based red oxide primer ?Could you point to the exact product ?

It's a 2.4kw 'Kettle Element' if that is any good for you?

You can add another and run two elements.

Hi mate - Around 90c - 95c. What wattage element are you running? Do you have any insulation?

Or swap it for a single big one!

Hi mate, mine ran around 90-95c ish! Yours isn't hot enough yet, I would suggest insulating it better or reducing the water volume a bit! Or upping the size of your element!

@@ArchersMushrooms Thanks a million for the reply, much appreciated. After testing for a while I found that the model of element I got was thermostatically controlled to turn off at 60°c as a safety measure. I figured out how to disconnect the thermostat and rewire the unit. I've added a PID controller and she's topping out at 98.6° now! delighted with how it worked out. Got loads of sub done :) Thanks again. keep up the good work!

Sure, i've got some bags coming soon so when I do that i'll record it and pop it up!

Hiya thanks for your comment! Why do you think the valve will fail that easily? If the plastic floater can't bear high temperatures unscrew the floater and put a new one. Brass would be the best I guess. I wonder if cork would do it too. The valve will fail because of the internals. They’re only plastic and not designed to withstand heating and cooling cycles really. Eventually it will begin to leak and fail. The all aluminium ones are great and machined with metal components. I'm not worried about the float, that should be fine for a good long time since its only 100c What insulation are you using? I have seen similar insulation on sale locally but it has plastic bubbles between two sheets of aluminium, which I was told by the seller would melt at 60C. I'm using rockwool at the moment but it is too messy and ugly, plus it stinks when heated up. It’s called radiator insulation. It’s a reflective sheet that insulates and reflects heat back inwards towards the room. As far as I’m aware if its designed to be heated, it will be safety rated highly, possibly double or triple. I’ve got an insulation jacket being made right now from a neoprene material that usually insulates food cylinders. Rockwool isn’t healthy to breathe in on a regular basis, I’d make sure you wear a mask. Are you using a temperature controller? I didn't use at first and fried my heater after 4 cycles, thing is, once you reach 96C-98C it takes ages to heat another extra degree, so better to call it a day and stop heating at that point so the heater can rest a bit, plus energy is saved while sterilization is not compromised. Otherwise the materials stress and the steel opens cracks, leading to failure. I will defiantly be using an temperature controller in the near future, I’m working on an Arduino project at the minute which will control temperature inside my fruiting chamber. Then I’ll apply the same principle to the boiler. Great point though! When I had my 2kw heater running non stop it would reach 100C and stabilize there. I didn't drill holes on the lid as the steam finds its way to escape through the seal. I'm now using a 1,5kw heater and works equally fine, just adds two more hours to each cycle. My inkbird is set to 96C then stops and kicks in again once temp drops to 93C. Just sharing my experience with these barrels, hope this helps somehow. That’s great advice! How long do you sterilise for at that temperature? I’m actually thinking of making the seal tighter with a rubber inner tube or something and adding a valve on top for some back pressure and a bit more efficiency. Could be an idea….

Are you using the float valve you posted in other video? amzn.to/2JTsLKb If so, it's similar to mine, don't think it will fail soon. Just make sure you have brass fittings too. I will check on that "radiator insulation" term to see if I find something. I have my incubation and FC insulated with rockwool, I'm using some spare material for the barrel, not ideal though. With the barrel filled to the top it takes about 4-5 hours to reach 90C, from there I let it cook another 20 hours between 93C-96C. Have been operating my barrel like this for 2 months, works great for sterilizing sawdust and grains. My barrel is similar to yours, so probably like me you will have the original seal breaking apart after a few cycles. I used spare TV cable wire glued with silicon to replace the original seal, the seal now is tight and shows no sign of deterioration. I thought about the the valve too, at the moment I'm not into it but I didn't discard the idea yet. After a few cycles I realized it's hard to contain the pressure in these cheap barrels, there's always a leak on the top or bottom. It would be a great improvement if one could have the barrel at, let say 5 psi, this would reduce sterilization time and energy loss, however the complexity of the build and costs of the materials increase dramatically. However if I had to sterilize two or three tonnes of substrate per week it would be my priority to find a way to cook the sub under pressure to increase efficiency. On the scale we are doing I think it's not determinant for success.

I am using rockwool too, with aluminium around so it looks like in this video but thicker, and it did not smell anything when heated. I used this brand : www.travisperkins.co.uk/Knauf-Insulation-Rock-Building-Slab-RS45/p/9000197592 I use brass floater too, pretty cheap but hard to find.

The link you posted on another comment is dead.

@@salvadorpalma8173 Hello mate! The one I use/recomend is this one ebay.to/39y0khy You can get these up to 3kw but without a PID controller it wouldn't be wise to run it for such a long time without running a new cable from your consumer unit! best of luck!

@@ArchersMushrooms Hey mate. Thanks for the reply. I'll have it PID controlled. That looks great and if I can't find one here in piortugal I'll probably end up buying it. I can find them here but they are for water hearter and they don't have a capsule/enclosure. I haven't though/researched ways to make a enclosure myself yet though. I can always use the element of my autoclave but I wanted to buy one so I don't have to take it on and off the autoclave everytime i want to do sub bags. How's your barrel holding up, not being stainless steel!?

@@salvadorpalma8173 Is that an element or PID you can't find? There are cheaper ones in the UK I can help you find, but that's the robust one I trust!

@@ArchersMushrooms nah. PID is easy to find. what i cant find is the element with the enclosure capsule. I think it's just a matter of me not typping the right words. if you know any, please send the link, i'll apreciate it. I wouldn't mind a less robbust one.

It depends on the size of the bag! 30 or so reasonably sized ones but i've never ran it full. sorry I can't help more!

A pond fogger is just an ultrasonic mister that floats! Same thing as i'm using.

Good ideas! I think oil would boil off after each cycle but could be re-applied after for preservation!

Hello mate. I'd advise getting it from here. ebay.to/2Shrlkv that's the one I use.

Through one of the vent holes and into a test bag.

Vent holes? You stick the inkbird temp controler in the vent holes on the lid?

Hi mate, not especially! It depends on the element size and your electric rates! Cheers, Gareth

Float finally failed after 6 runs. I just waited until a bag got to an internal temp of 100c and waited 8 hours from there.

@@ArchersMushrooms how were you measuring the internal temp of the bags? Are you using some kind of wireless thermometer to calibrate the runtime? I've been looking for such a product but never found anything good. Do you have a link?

@@MOIdesign A PID controller is what you need. It has a thermostatic cut off. amzn.to/33Ue9og You can swap and switch which thermometer you use depending on your specs!

Hi mate, no not off the top of my head. I'd guess at slightly less than 1mm on the sides and obviously thicker where it's crimped on the bottom and top. I don't know if there is an ISO for barrels so they may change depending on the style! Cheers! Gareth

@@ArchersMushrooms thanks mate

This barrel has died, but it wasn't expensive so I've replaced it with a galvanized barrel now which works great! Still a bit rusty on the seam but good enough for mushrooms! The float valve has been replaced with an all-stainless one but the element works fine! I may invest in a stainless one in the near future, i'll put up a video of it if I do!

@@ArchersMushrooms ah sweet! Sent you an email through your site!

@@ArchersMushrooms What about zinc poisoning? Galvanized + Heat + wet conditions = zinc will be released into your substrate. Am I missing something?

@@tunein2522 It's a fair concern, however, the bags are sealed, mild steel doesn't contain zinc. It's the Zinc fumes are dangerous so don't weld it without the proper kit. Zinc doesn't begin melting until it reaches 420c, a temperature barrels like this don't reach. If you are concerned by using barrels like this, 316 stainless would be a good place to look. Cheers

@@ArchersMushrooms You are awesome for posting this video and replying to comments. Thanks man! The insane cost of stainless is the only reason I havent yet built one of these. Zinc fumes offgas at FAR lower temps than it melts, American Galvanizers Association recommends using Hot-dipped galvanized steel below 200C in dry conditions to prevent flaking off of zinc alloys and degradation of container. My understanding is that a relative humidity over %60 is enough to degrade galvanized steel, filling with water even more so. Also have read that compounding factors(eg: wet + heat) lower the typical threshold of concern for each factor, but details as to how exactly this may play out in mushroom grow conditions is hard to come by. USDA doesnt approve any galvanized cooking vessels/utensils for these exact reasons. Hope you can offer some clarity on this for me as you clearly have more knowledge than I on metal working. Perhaps simply bagging the sub is enough and I am being overly cautious but I'm trying to scale up for commercial volume and don't want to make anyone sick. Much appreciated

You ain't wrong there mate!