Great tip about using a ball valve! All the other mods, needle valves, gate valves you that need to notch or shove something in them etc, are unnecessary. Atomizing the fuel does not necessarily make it burn hotter, once the pot is warmed up you can decrease the oil supply to a trickle and get lovely clean burns. If you start with a tiny amount of oil you won't get hardly any smoke at start up either.
I think you could, judging by the outside temperature of the cylinder 600-800 degrees C it's already at the melting point of aluminium. I can turn up the oil flow and it will get even hotter, add some insulation like you have done and boy would that work well. There is room inside for a good bit of aluminium and you have given me the thought of doing some casting myself. 👍 thanks for watching and commenting on my videos. 😊
@@bensclassicbodywork Do you think you could make a swirl air guide to get rid of the carbon block of junk inside the stove ??? That is my idea Ben. Hope you can run with the idea mate. Good luck with making it happen Sir. Your video are just right on, very easy to understand and remake whatever you showed can happen easily. I tip my hat off to you Ben.
@@victoryfirst2878 Hi and thanks for the comment, I could certainly make a swirl guide and I have heard people say that swirling flames are good but I didn't know the reason why they are good. My 20 watt fan arrived today and I gave it a try, after 4 hours running on a low temperature setting there wasn't any soot/carbon build up inside. So it seems the improved airflow has solved the problem and the smoke out of the flu has definitely reduced. I did noticed some back pressure with the new fan so I have increased the 46 6mm holes to 8mm holes and the back pressure has certainly reduced. Hopefully more improvement tomorrow when I run it again. Ben
nice video ben, I i have a 10" centrafugal extractor fan for ducting with a speed controller. I plan on using this fan for either a waste oil burner or a Gasifier not sure yet. your stove is lovely with the stainless steel construction. Look forward to more vids buddy :) Josh.
@@bensclassicbodywork Thank you. Let me know if you want a free membership, and you can post your videos on the forum whenever you want. We've done this for many of the YTers you see on the forum.
Oh, yes please, sounds good. My email is btdixey@hotmail.com if you need it. I've built other tools that I intend on videoing and a full scale helicopter.
i use stainless to keep from burning up my stove, pipes, and components, I also drip water into the combustion chamber like an IV and get 20 to 30% more efficiency and do not have to clean it out as often. it runs red to orange hot and burns .6 gl/hr. love the radiant heat!
Nice 👌 I had heard of adding water for more heat, don't understand the chemistry but we know not to put out a chip pan fire with water. How much water/hr does it use ?
After googling the Kroll Kosy yes it is. Before building I had a look at a Thermobile and roughly copied that design. The Thermobile and Kroll look very similar indeed. I was going to buy a Thermobile but decided I'd rather build and learn something and hopefully save some money.
awesome design. sounds like you'll want to make some more holes! maybe angle them for a swirl and a bit of turbulence? though I know stainless can be an utter pig to drill. Failing that, you could go for a centrifugal blower fan like a typical boiler has. a car's HVAC blower fan works good for cheap - plenty of oomf! (and adjustable if you get the accompanying blower fan resistor) centrifugal fans have better pressure ratios than axial ones like you have there.
Great information, smart comment. 👍 I drilled out half the holes yesterday to 8mm and it's definitely getting more air to the burn chamber. The only drill I had to fit inside was an air drill and despite cleaning out the pot the exhaust from the air drill still blew soot all over me, I didn't realise until I got home that I looked like a chimney sweep from the 1900s. The increased air has made it burn cleaner and there's no soot building up now on any oil flow rate setting. It does make more noise though with a deep rubble but I'm not too worried about that. There's one thing I'm wondering and that is why does the smallest Thermobile waste oil burner have a minimum oil flow rate of 2ltrs/hr. That seems very high when I'm using more like 1.2-1.5ltrs/ hr. Seems they have decided on a minimum heat setting. If I turned mine up that high it would probably melt. There's two thoughts with fans. High pressure small holes, low pressure big holes. Low pressure would mean a lower power fan compared to high pressure ?
nice heater :o) Surprised you need a fan? The two commercial ones where I'm working at the moment, don't have fans for the combustion air, just fans to blow over the casing and warm the workshop.
Try a fan from a gas boiler, they can be found cheap or free, and being a centrifugal fan they can create pressure which is something the type of fan your using can’t do.
Great suggestion, I should have gone for that option first time around. I should have done more research generally it was all thrown together without much thought. The 20watt axial fan came yesterday and it reduced the amount of soot significantly but you could feel some blow back through the fan. As you suggest a fan which produces more pressure would be a solution. I started drilling out the 6mm holes to 8mm to reduce the pressure required, I will run it today and see what happens. Cheers
when I burn at .6 gal/hr I add a drop / sec of water (can also bur n antifreeze) stove has to be a full red hot. I sounds like a deep fat frier. too much and the heat production decreases. i will be glad to send a picture.
Thank you and merry Christmas. There was a bit of smoke with the 12watt fan but now I have got the 20watt fan fitted there is virtually none and no build up of soot in the chamber no matter what heat setting. You can have the oil feed to just a drip on very low heat and it keeps going, just turn up the oil flow for more heat. I did drill out some of the 6mm air feed holes to 8mm and I'm Just giving it a test for a week or two. There is another issue I have to overcome which seems to have developed. After about four hours running the heat goes up and down in periodic cycles, I can sort of see what's happening but further investigation needs to be carried out before a conclusion can be drawn.
Perfectly legal, depending on a couple things. If burning waste oil then you need to pay for a licence, not sure if this only applies to commercial businesses. It can be run on a variety of other fuels without needing a licence, for example kerosene, diesel, heating oil, rapeseed oil ect, not sure about used cooking oil. I think there are different legislations for various parts of United Kingdom. They call the licence an environmental fee, how paying the licence has an effect on the environment is beyond me. Particularly when you pay to have waste oil taken away and it gets burnt anyway. I'm not an expert on this just what I've read online.
It's not very safe no. The guard I added helped safety but could do with more in that regard. I don't run it like that for very long and prefer a lower temp. In general I wouldn't leave the stove unattended, certainly not until many hours use had accumulated and I could rely on it.
Hi, the big hole in the middle isn't one I cut, it was there already and is pretty much blocked off by the oil pan when in use. My intention was to weld up this hole but I have left it in place. I had a problem in the beginning where the oil spout feeding the pan was too far off to one side. What happened was soot builds up in the pan during use and the soot built up to allow the oil to flow over the side of the pan and onto the floor via the big hole. The oil wasn't on fire it just dripped onto the floor. The fact that there was a hole allowed me to find the problem and I kind of feel it's a fail safe to prevent the occurrence of too much oil being able to build up in the chamber. Up for debate on that but I like the fact i was alerted to the problem.Since increasing the length of the spout I haven't had this issue and it will run 9hrs without any oil overflowing the pan. There will be a very small amount of air coming through that big hole but I don't feel it would be significant. Happy to answer any other questions If I can.
Ah ok, I'm used to getting that comment about my helicopter 😉 I ran it that hot for demonstration purposes and yes it can be dangerous for sure. However it will be a process of continuous improvement where i could make it as safe as a bought one. In fact the bought ones have the oil reservoir directly beneath the burner. I was in a house fire once where the Rayburn caught fire, oil had leaked into the Rayburn's inner casting and despite our best efforts with multiple fire extinguishers the fire kept reigniting due to the residual heat. We had to shut up the house and call the fire brigade. So the bought one in my opinion could be more dangerous than my home made one? My carbon dioxide monitor had to be sent back because it didn't meet safety standards, but they are still being sold everyday to unsuspecting people. Not is all what it seems sometimes.
Yes. I'm sure they would want a certified heater inside. Another option might be to have the stove outside and have a fan blowing hot air into the house. Can't see any risk with that setup with suitable distance between house and heater.
It won't be as effective but you could make it pretty close by having an insulated jacket around the pot and blowing the radiant heat into the house. Here's a video of what someone else has done. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9mHNLWGjVRk.html
