Honda Accord Blower Motor Troubleshooting and Replacement 2012 (2008-2012 Similar) 

Tools and parts in video: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. PowerProbe IV: amzn.to/2YO5vcz OTC Test Light: amzn.to/2Z51jnL Uni-T Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2yYIMLl Genuine Honda Blower Motor: amzn.to/2Z4mAdl Genuine Honda Blower Transistor: amzn.to/2yXcGj4 Genuine Honda Passenger Cover: amzn.to/2YZ7Pg3 The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive

At first i thought 43 min just to find out where my resistor was .But then i watched the whole video . One of the most thorough and informative videos i have ever watched.

This is the best diagnostic repair video I have seen on this subject. My 2013 Honda CR-V had those same symptoms during a recent trip. I didn't have any means of testing the resistor so I opened the engine fuse box and pushed down all of the relays to make sure that they were seated. (I had no key either to determine the system each relay served.) Long story short, some of those relays did seat better, and my symptoms of low output of A/C air went back to normal. Now that I am home, I have found out that Honda has discontinued carrying the blower motor and resistor for my car but that's normal since car manufacturers are only required to carry parts for ten years. I plan to purchase a replacement blower motor, resistor, and resistor harness to have on hand as the availability of these parts is becoming sketchy.

I cant get over how damn good this video is. super well explained and you show everything step by step. thank you for being so thorough and showing how easy it is to do this stuff yourself.

Thank you for taking the time to make this troubleshooting tutorial on a problem that has driven thousands of Honda owners mad. Me included. You identified almost every aspect including the wiring diagram which was very easy to understand. The Honda HVAC control unit is also notorious for randomly going bad. I'm subscribed. Please keep up the outstanding work!

I watch so many car repair videos on RU-vid, this is without a doubt the most detailed and to-the-point video I've ever sen on troubleshooting an electrical problem. Thanks for this. (My parents have a really noisy air blower in a 09 Accord so I believe it only needs a replacement... but all of this is so useful!)

I searched forever to get this video that provides exactly what I need. Thank you so much, now I can troubleshoot on my Pilot HVAC system and eliminate the blower motor part of it.

Very nice. I have an 97 and replaced the blower module about 5 years ago. Just went on the blink and if that doesn’t work I can dig deeper after watching this breakdown. You are the Top Dog too.

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My 2015 Honda Civic started making a funny noise last night when I turned on the AC/heat. I found many videos on how to replace the air cabin filter, so I tried that, and it was really clean! But none of those videos told me to reach in under the filter to make sure there isn't anything in there and the motor moved freely!! And that was the problem! There was an old receipt (not mine) in it! Less than 4 minutes into your great detailed video, and it solved my problem. Thank you so much!!

Excellent video Big Dog! I first heard the noise coming from under the glove compartment after starting the car on a very cold day. I called the dealer to make an appointment to bring the car in to have it diagnosed and repaired. The service advisor said it is probably a "Blower Motor" which costs around $283.00 to replace ($114 for the part and $169 which is an hour and half labor). So I made the appointment thinking the dashboard and other areas of the car would need to replace. Then I thought, "Let me check RU-vid to see if there is anymore information" and low and behold I came across this video which could not have been any more informative! I looked online for the part and I found it for $66 with $12 for shipping from "CheaperHondaParts" and ordered the Torx screw driver on Amazon for $4. The whole job took me 13 minutes to complete and saved me $201.00! Thanks so much for producing this great video...keep up the good work!

I usually have a short attention span but this video must have healed me LOL. Was having issues with my stepdaughters 2009 Civic. Had to push start the blower fan to get working. I was all ready to hit the "order" button at "Parts Geek" to buy another fan but watched this video first. Went thru ALL the steps (tested transistor, wire jump etc.) you explained in video and what do you know-the darn thing started working! I let car run for thirty minutes and no audible change in fan speed (didn't have voltage clamp) so we'll see what happens. All in all-THANK YOU!

Thanks, I was able to fix my heater and AC by following this video. The explanation was very clear.

Thank you for this video. Had a clicking noise and was able to clean out the filter and found the leaf making the noise. Saved me a trip to the mechanic and probably a few hundred dollars. Great video!

Your explanation and video is great. I tested my resistor and it tested good. I tested the motor, and it was also good. However, the way we test the resistor is different than how it acts under full load, and running conditions. The resistor tested good, but I replaced it and everything is good.

Thank you so much for this video! I purchased a part with no wiring diagram, and nobody and I mean nobody would help me identify the proper wiring configuration. The part I was sold add all the same colored wires, without your diagram I was lost. Thank you

Exceptional video. It helped me solve my problem for way cheaper than I was quoted for by a mechanic. I appreciate this video tremendously.

Just bought this panel off Amazon for my ‘08 Accord and it does help with the noise.

Great video. Super detailed and step-by-step, easy to follow. Thank you for covering everything that will help everyone save bucks by knowing how to trouble-shooting their blower fan issues

I was told to change both motor and resistor, but thank you for showing us the full and proper way to troubleshoot this issue.

Best training video on the web! Thank you. I'm struggling with the replacement of resistor and blower motor on an Acura MDX. Very poorly designed system. If you're not an instructor, you should be!

Definitely subscribed!!! Your video is the most thorough and informative. You set the bar very high because I’ve never seen a video as good as yours. I can’t say thank you enough. Please keep up the good work.

Holy crap the explanation was perfect. Diagnosis, confirm, repair. EXACTLY how it should be done. 😎😎

Thank you so much for this video. You are sure a swell teacher, as you answered every question that I had in my mind about the slow-flow blower problem that we were having in our Honda Civic, but the make is not important after seeing this video. So I dove right in with my DVM (digital volt meter) and current checker. I started right out with checking the heater blower filter behind the glove box. Lucky me, it was an easy fix as some dang mice had a nest in there, a total plug up. No tools fix for me, that's why I say lucky me. I didn't even know that filter was in there. Anyway, from here on out, our fix will be to turn on the recirculating button for airflow on the dash before we turn off the key. Bringing in fresh air is only for when the windows fog up, and gives the mice a nice tunnel to come on in. This closes the flapper from outside air, and those dang mice. I told Wifey to hit that yellow button with the circular arrow before she shuts the car down for the night. The circular arrow means the mice will be ejected out of the cab and into the exhaust pipe. Thanks again!

Really appreciate this video...the detail is amazing. Taking the time to make the circuit diagram was over the top. This helped me check every aspect of my blower problem, which oddly enough suddenly began working again. I suspect it's the fan and will replace it and the 'resister' if the problem happens again. Thanks for going to all the trouble of creating this video.

Your explanation is excellent. Great detail, full examples with the theory behind the tests! Thanks for your help

Thanks for posting this. I was able to test my resistor/diode and once that was OK, I narrowed it down to the charcoal air filter just not letting enough air through.

Very good instructional video on how to test /troublshoot resistor / motor problems!!! Thank you

Thank you for this wonderful tutorial. It gives lot of information about my car

The video helped me a lot on my 2012 accord, the climate control would occasionally come on if I was in park and the rest of the time it wouldn’t work. It was the fuse and it was cheap and easy thanks to you

Record heat this week in Houston and my 2012 Fit fan goes out. Thanks a bunch for this video I will fixing it this weekend..

By far, one of the best videos I have watched! You tha man.

Great video! Very thorough. Thanks for taking the time to create this!

Very GOOD video man! Very well documented and easily explained

One of the best trouble shooting video, good work and thank you!

Thanks Bro you explain it so perfectly regular guy like my self got it done 👍 😅 thanks

Amazing video! So professional! thank you thank you so much. I was able to fix my odyssey 2007 blower.

Thank you Dave. Good job. If you get a chance, can you make a short 5 minute video on testing the power transistor control voltage with connector unplugged and plugged in. This will help us all know what to expect from a known good AC Control Unit. Have a blessed and safe week to you and your family.

Excellent video, extremely helpful. Important to see the root cause, could be the resistor as well as the blower fan. Value cleaning the motor first to eliminate possible cause of noise. Well done!

Great job explaining the troubleshooting procedure. Some people just want to throw parts at the issue and call it a day.......only to come back later and find another item to be the culprit.

good job mate, your video just saved me the money on new Blower Motor.The diagram you have put on is very useful.

Thank you so much. This was one of the most helpful videos I have found on RU-vid. Great details!

This was a great video. Saved me tons of headaches. Thank you kind sir

Great work, thanks for taking the time to go through in detail.

THANK YOU SIR! Best video out there. Thanks for all the pointers.

Thank you so much fantastic I have same problem in my car & I’ve watch too many videos but that one make the problem easy thanks again 👌👍🏻

Thank you for this post. Your description worked for a 2004 Honda Odyssey RB1 as well. Slightly different locations of the components but easily identifiable. It was the resistor pack on mine. I had just replaced the starter motor the day before when the problem occurred, so I'm not sure if related or just bad luck. I had to replace the battery while fault finding the blower as well as it was so weak it was showing low volts quickly after beginning testing. I was aware that the battery was on the way out but the Hondas are such good starters I had put up with it longer than I should have.

Great info. I admire your professionalism

thanks man this helped me so much that noise was driving my girl crazy!

God Bless you brother!! I was able to learn from this and apply it to my car (03 Civic) to deduce the ground side aka resistor/transistor being bad rather than the fan! I jumped the 2 fat wires with the fan on high and key on and the fan came on. thanks again!!! p.s. I will try to get an ammeter like yours to do a more thorough test on the motor too!

Awesome video! My blower motor has been working intermittently for a few weeks. I checked for power and ground where appropriate; all was good. I ran all the tests on the transistor; all was good. I did the voltage drop test with the transistor pin looped; my voltage started at 14v but then dropped to 13.1 and ultimately stayed around 13.1-13.2. Oddly enough my blower motor is currently working after tinkering with the connectors. Based on these tests it looks like I need both the motor and transistor.

You must have 1 million subscribers

Excellent presentation very knowledgeable and professional

This video was so helpful!! AAA!! Thank you so much, you saved me a lot of aggravation and an expensive repair bill. Keep the videos coming and I can't say thank you enough. I've watched many tutorials and this ones the "Best" !!! Any suggestions on where I could find the female plug/pigtail that attaches to the blower motor??

Thanks for this video! I'm looking for why the passenger side isn't getting heat, and this isn't that problem but it was interesting and helped me understand what isn't wrong, although I have noticed slightly less blowing too, so that may be a future fix.

thanks for your time on the video brother helped very well

Thanks for this information. Diagram suggests that power transistor is controlled by a pulse width modulation signal in order to get control over motor speed.

Super Informative! Thank you.

Super!!!.........Very professional,,,,,,This by all means..."The Best Tutorial Video....I ever See.....Thanks.

Great Video! Thanks for all the details. Saved me lots of troubleshooting time. Subscribing to your channel now.

Who gave this video a thumbs down? This should make a "Best of RU-vid". What else could you want for free content?

Great job of explaining the diagnosing Honda Blower Circuit. Thanks so much. I have a Honda Odyssey Elite 2020 which 2 Blowers one for the Front & one for the back. The front is blowing but rear vents has no air Blowing . Can you help. Thanks kFL

OUTSTANDING VIDEO!!!

Great video. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you for sharing such valuable information. Gr8 video.

That's a great video. It's funny, I just made a video on a pilot with the same issue. Mine wasn't as long and thorough as yours. You make nice videos.

Great video! Thanks a million.

This video was so helpful. Thanks!!

muy importante video claro y bien explicado gracias desde honduras

Another great video. Thanks

Thank you Sir. Good job. Appreciate your videos. Was hoping you would show the control voltage at various speed settings to see if the control voltage stays the same or varied when the speed was increased or if the frequency or duty cycle changes. Would like to know what the control voltage reads at the transistor connector while unplugged and see if the control voltage changes and compare the control voltage by back probe the control wire with connector plugged into the transistor. Also would like to see what the feedback voltage did as the motor got more ground from low to high speed. As more ground was provided by transistor the ground voltage level will go down. Slower the speed, less the ground, higher the feedback voltage. Faster the speed, more the ground, lower the feedback voltage. Thank you very much. I really appreciate and enjoy your videos. God Bless you and your family.

thanks for the video , well explained

Thanks bud, I have this problem,. At first Iooking at the wiring diagram, it looked pwm on the ground side. Is that what's happening here? I was nervous about checking transistor while it was plugged in. I have an 8ma led test light for ecm circuits. But this design is new to me.

Ok ... this is apparently a common issue with Honda 'Fit' (or 'Jazz' in some countries) and many other vehicles as well ... it occurs because the lower bearing which is one of 2 self aligning 'oillite' bronze type bushes 'picks up' and seizes on the lower part of the armature spindle. The spindle shaft is quite soft and any dirt or corrosion reduces the bearing clearance and causes it to seize. The motor itself is a "hard push" fit into the plastic housing but can be removed by judicious application of a deadblow hammer to said housing whilst holding motor body in a vice or similar .... lower bearing can then be lubricated and possibly freed up ... but you will most likely not return the unit to 'as new' friction less running ... for the US$50 odd its best to buy a new unit from Amazon or similar and refit that. Standard motor/Fan unit will draw >14.5A @ 13V and rotate at 2150 RPMs ... when the motor 'stalls' due to excessive friction from the seizing bearings the current (massive increase!!) overheats the fan resistor pack (early and cheap models) and its safety circuit solder melts opening the circuit so no wiring damage occurs. If you have less than the 14/15 A current draw then as in this video the chances are the motor brushes have been compromised.

really nice vehicle, the only downside is that it is noisy on the highway, do you have any experience with the dynapad or something like that?

Great video. Thank you,

Hi, I need help with it as I’m Honda Civic fan!! My blower doesn’t work as I did replaced the blower only. Could it be the wire issue as AC/Heater doesn’t work at all… should I buy Resistor?? Thanks!!

I bought two transistors for my 1993 Mazda 2600 i pickup,Keep blowing out ,, now when watching your video I figure the same problem happen to the pickup , Im gonna replace the blower motor and the transistor.

what if the blower motor works, the air is cool, all speeds work, and there is no debris in the filter, but it is just all of a sudden a lot louder than it used to be? does that mean that the blower motor is "going bad"? edit: this video was amazingly informative and relieves my anxiety about dealing with this area of my 2011 accord

Great video, thanks!!

Help me figure mine out. 02 CRV. After putting new resistor in things got worse. Now most of the time the fan won't come on at all on any speed. Used volt meter to test things and they pass. Can I test current draw with just a regular volt meter? Is there a way to test the controls themselves? I can't find anything on it. Update: I went ahead and used my volt meter to check the power when the fan is running. I had to first tap the motor to get it to spin then checked the meter and the volts were jumping all over the place. I replaced motor and resistor now its smooth and quiet. I have to say your video helped me out more than any other due to more in depth testing that others didn't do.

brilliant video. Thanks

Great video! Thanks for all the details.

Great video, very detailed, I learned a lot! Thanks!

My whole HVAC system makes a whining noise at low levels, I can hear it coming from the blower motor when I put my ear near it. It's working fine but always has a whining noise. It's very loud at low levels and it's doing it all the time. Is there something else that could be bad? Or should I replace the blower motor and see if that fixes my issue. I have a 2008 Accord 4 door.

Great Job . Thank you

Great video

Good complete info !!

I have the same car ac working but no air coming out behind center console for backseat passengers. Do you know what could be the problem?

Awesome video!! Helped me alot. Thank you!!!

Excellent Video. Thank you.

I wonder if it will also display a B1241 Blower motor Lock Error on the scanner.

Hey men, your demo is so perfect. Can do something for the AC too?

Thanks for the info

The video is clear

Hey boss I’m 13 mins into ur video I have an accord 2008 ex sedan One day I turned on my car and smoke was coming from under the hood I’m assuming some wires melted Forgot to mention I’m no mechanic or know too much Scared, I turned off my car. And left my car like that. Next time I drove it, it was driving fine, no smoke, but the battery light came up on the dashboard and my car turned off at a red light I got jumped started by some nice person The light on the dashboard went away But moments after it came back on And turned off quicker this time. I was able to get to my destination, and charge my battery there. My car turned on fine No battery light on dashboard But like half way home The battery light came back on. And I barely made it home(even tho I stopped at Wendy’s) Days later I tried another battery , my car turned on fine, but the battery light stayed on and from there and on, the battery light never turns off when I start my car. If it’s in idle, the car won’t turn off as long as I have gas in it. If I drive off, it will shut off on me within a couple mins. Other thing to mention is that I was pushing my alternator/battery way too hard. I had two 12 inch 1500 rms watts subwoofers and I believe each drew about 150 amps each (I know stupid me, should’ve gotten a secondary battery or upgraded my altenator, done the big 3 upgrade. U live and u learn, or not) My buddy told me that it’s not my altenator He did that “one test” where u unplug one of the battery posts and my car stayed on (I’ve heard it’s not good to do that) We’re guessing it might be whatever melted Sorry for the long, bad explanation of my situation I have a question, the cables that go from the + of the battery to the battery/alternator fuse 100/40 under the hood, are they both positive or is one of them negative? If I remember correctly, when I checked the voltage on both of those cables, didn’t give me a voltage reading. Is it possible it could be those two cables? Could it be a relay Fuse Or melted/broken ground cables? Bad spark plugs Dirty oxygen sensor? Oh also my fan started coming on a lot less The one for the motor I know it doesn’t come on Al the time but i noticed that it wasn’t working properly So far I took out my car system completely. I haven’t drove my baby for like 4 months Can any body please try to help. I got tools and can follow instructions

I replaced my blower motor with one from Amazon that fits my 2014 honda. it worked for 1 day then it stopped blowing after that. I checked the fuse box which was good and I checked the power coming from the cord in the glove box it was still giving 12 volts but my fan still was not working??

This is great!

Very very good vid thanks so much great to see the power probe actually in use not just someone talking about it. One question though - how do I test the signals from the climate control to the transistor? Is it pwm

Thanks for the video. It was great. Daughter has a 2003 Accord (V6). The issue was/is the fan blowing full blast no matter where the control is set. We replaced the transistor several times before finding this video. Sometimes it worked for a few days and then started going full blast again. Followed most of the steps on the video, but couldn’t figure it out. Finally broke down and replaced the transistor and the blower motor at the same time. And wa-la, it worked great...for one month! Then back to blowing full boar. She is ready to take it to the dealer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.