HONDA CIVIC HYBRID !!COMEBACK!! STILL STALLS / TCM NO COMM PART 1 

Very thorough and knowledgeable yet direct to the point with no fluff. I like your videos.

Today, YT randomly suggested me this video and you did a great work investigating this problem. It does seem like the infamous oil problem, where oil gets pushed through the copper wires inside the insulation and causing here weird behaviour of the AT module. To answer your question why the problem is solved after half an hour or after disconnecting the battery: When the AT module acts up its TEC (Transmit error counter) is increased for each failed CAN transmission, so sending incomplete messages or not sending ACKs etc. When the TEC then reaches a certain value, it enters bus off state, which you can probably see with your scanner inside the ECM and the dash lighting up and and no longer indicates speed. (This I think is also the reason why you can't talk to the TCM with the scanner.) If you now let the CAN bus shutdown and the CAN controller inside the modules reset itself the communication will be restored until the same thing happens again.

Great videos!! yOUR ARE AN EXPERT ON THE WIRING DIAGRAMS,AND SCAN TOOL,Thanks for going into detail ,I can learn a lot from watching your videos!!

Hy! The oil you find in the ECU plug is coming thru the wires insulation from the oil pressure switch of the engine,or from the oil pressure switch of the steering pump.You must search.Allso you must remove the cover of the ecu because it might be full of oil inside the ecu.Been there myself.

Dude some many times this happens. All ok with technician but messed up as soon as with the customer. I've experienced it and it's a bad feeling. Feeling your pain. Great job Eric

nice man you doing great with these content.I just want to let you know I like your videos because its real world experience, how you document your real life procedure how you do it step by step and your thought process in it, its very unique very different from the popular youtubers like chrisfix,scotty. I don't personally own honda like in this video or nissan gtr witch i still like about it i hope you upload about that video or not but it would be great if you do.I own a bmw. I watch your videos not so i could fix it myself but i actually want to know what is happening I would still rather hired a mechanic to do the job. So keep posting your daily routine since you really prove you a really a true mechanic vlogger even with your low subscribers or view but you have nothing to lose you just helping people in some way or another thats all it matters.I hope you do more super cars and european cars in the mix too it will be very great content. DON"T CHANGE YOUR WAY of video recording no cuts if unnecessary just the whole real life process its very unique AND RAW even ppl might say chrisfix might actually be the same but yours is very different its RAW and real. I hope you keep vlogging your daily experience step by step and detail cause its very real experience and unique atm

Your presentation is much improved. Good job.

Yeah bro you have a great attitude facing the same vehicle again right after he paid you, wow. Awesome troubleshooting, thanks for the CAN Bus tutorial!!

Great case study. Looking forward to the solution.

Most people including me could not do this video without profanity! Way to keep it clean! (or well edited) You have super troubleshooting skills! Thanks for the education!

Love you, cant wait for part 2!

Excellent video my friend. I will be waiting for part 2.

That was probably Scotty Kilmer honking at you at the intersection in his Toyota

Hey man another excellent video, I can totally relate with you on the people honking at you when broken down it happens here in the UK too 🤣 looking forward to the update on this 👍

I feel u r on right track. Could also share internal situation of ECU in part 2 And very informative on CAN communication 👌👌

Bean there done that . I was right there with you . Well done getting back .

Fantastic video keep up the great work love your channel

I always admire your troubleshooting skills. You should be teaching with your abilities.

Very good job,, hey thanks a lot for the info very good video.. I really hope you get it fixed for your time and the customer..

Where I live and go for a test drive if the car stops, I might have to wait an hour before someone comes along. 😂🇨🇦

You are a genius , i own a delalership in Alabama , got one like this one 2006 , customer driving by he heard a snap sound and it went rolling no engagment of transmission , we towed it to our lot and he bought another car and we have it , for a trade in, transmission is full of fluid , no burning , engine perfect battery weak but works , and we will try diagnosing it may be it is a simple issue , if not it goes to parts in our yard, thank you much for this treasure if info.

Eric I just enjoy your videos for mount of information that you iccorporate into them. They are excellent. If you replace the ECM/PCM WILL you show us the reprogram. Also what model scan tool are you using?. Eric keep us posted because the newer the vehicles get the more complex they are. Also what wiring diagram program are you using? Hope you don’t mind the questions just find your videos to be some of the best. Thanks much you and family st ay well Artie ❤️🙏

Excellent diagnosis ALO I hope the new ECM works. Looks thermal to me, predictable when running.

Thanks for sharing Eric👍 This is getting more interesting, I wonder why would a bad PCM act after the engine reaches it's true operating temperature, why not on cold start-up, maybe the PCM requires a physical inspection of the circuit boards😉 Looking forward to the fix👍 Stay safe Bro❤

Nice one 👍 you open my brain thanks boss, more videos to help us

Great video Eric 👍🏼👍🏼

Excellent work bro.....

Hi Erick.. I have a Honda civic hybrid 1.3 2006 almost thesame problem.. I can shift all the time.. And i also found oil in the same connector as you did.. Thanks for your video i could find the issue that causing lost com with tcm.. From.Mexicali,Mexico Franco Perez..

As Nijloveanu, I would check which componants are going to the oily connector, oil wicking along the copper of the wire is possible. (have seen it)

Good job Erica

You have good vids! You teach. Others don't at least not to this degree. You make better vids than South Main Auto and I like Eric.

Very informative

very informative video ❤️

Very interesting! Thank you!

Отличная работа по устранению неисправностей! Сложный сбой ... Я бы открыл блок управления, возможно, увидит проблему. Open wiring harnesses. I want to understand where the oil comes from!

excited for next video for thia car.....

I am addicted to your content .....I have a problem lol

Today i took a look at my inlaws civic. They were scared they had bad batteries or something. It was showing the same symptoms but something was telling me there was something wrong with the 12v battery. I drove it to autofone and scanned it. Code came back from low voltage on the abs system. I noticed a vacuum leak and the battery terminals were loose. I also pulled out every single fuse (one at a time) and cleaned everything up in the fuse box. I than went back to autofone and had the battery tested. It checked out good and i put it back into the car and tightened down and fixed the vaccum leak and it seems to have fixed it. The car is running good and its charging again.

The civic hybrid is sure a gem of weird stuff. Mine got broken into a few nights ago, guy left the overhead light on and completely drained the batteries. Tried to start it and nothing. Gave it a boost and it started but no IMA battery charging at all and error lights. Tried recharging the 12v battery and the car was able to start on its own but didn't charge the main battery still. Read online to try driving it for a bit then shutting it off and turning it back on (seems sketchy but it works) and when i tried it took me 2 attempts of shutting it off but the battery started charging again and its been good ever since. Basically if you have that same problem as me, try and charge up the 12v a bit and then drive it around the block a few times if possible and then shut it off and back on (might have to do it a couple times). However if the 12v is too low you may lose functions at stop signs such as power steering.

I dont see this to be work for you but your hobby. You are just great.Can't wait for part 2. How do I get hold of wiring diagrams?

Great job

Good job 👍 bro

Good work my friend uou will get it worked over

I remember mercedes automatic transmision that ATF travelled from the wires insulation up to the transmision module

Great video

I feel for you! Frustrating. Although I shuddered every time I saw you set the ECM next to the + post of the battery. was waiting for it to explode, although that would have cinched the diagnosis!

I have a 2012 civic 60K miles and knock on wood No IMA issues. They used a different battery chemistry in the 2012-2015 models and I guess improved the IMA reliability too. Still get 50+ MPG on a regular basis and no battery degradation so that's good

Good information

i agree with the last post from nijloeanu, the oil can wick up the wire to the ecu, bmw crank and cam sensors do the same thing, check the wiring diagram for any sensors that are in contact with engine or gearbox oil, good luck buddy. just a quick edit, that looks to clean to be engine oil, im guessing its trans fluid.

I had the same problem with my 2008 honda civic hybrid. I didn't jump like he is jumping because I don't know how to jump like that but I did put a brand new engine battery and that fixed all my problems.

Nice video and Good job, it was very interesting. Thank you ////////////////////

Saludos desde Panamá Erick best regards

So even when he does find the source of the oil in the plug what’s he going to have to do replace the engine wiring harness along with all fluid sensors?? This guy has some good videos. He goes far more beyond than a average shop would. They’d drive it 15 minutes no issue and send it

Good thought about a connector that got wet. First thing I considered is whether somebody was there before with dielectric grease. Or, maybe there's a leaking cap inside (as you just mentioned as I was typing, ha ha). You had me laughing at the moment in the intersection, I've been there more than once. You don't realize how ignorant people are until you meet them when you're down.

Not to be an ass but it's kind of fun to see a much better mechanic than me stuck in an intersection! :)

Hey pal, great video as usual. I have a question for you please; Some months back I had a P0171 and P0174 CEL code on my 08 lexus IS350 to indicate that my car was running lean on bank 2. Further down the line I changed both upstream 02 sensors and the codes went away. However I noticed the SFT and LFT on bank 1 are 2.3% and 10.1% respectively whereas that of bank 2 are 2.3% and 14.8%. I've checked under the hood for hissing noises or leaks but nothing. The car runs great however the mpg (14/17mpg) isn't very good. Please what does this indicate?

Great video! What version of Alldata is that?

I agree with the theory that others have put forward, could the fluid be 'wicking up' the wires into the ECU from below.

I’ve seen a similar issue with vw only with the engine coolant Working its way through most of the wiring harness, technical term for this is coolant migration on Causes all kinds of electrical issues

That car is missing all the plastic covers. Liner fender and bottom of bumper is naked as well. You can see the floor and the driver side tire from above. Lots of liquids and other elements are coming thru those holes. Hybrid cars are full of plastic covers on the bottom

Haven’t watched the video yet, is the pcm internal fault related to spark plugs being too old and spark gap too big? Had one yesterday, EU different car brand and model, ecu fault due to 14 year old spark plugs.

Had a Ford Focus just with a similar Issue - Coolant at the PCM Connector - it was coming through the Wiring from the Coolant Temp Sensor

Thank you

I had this fault many moons ago with a land rover defender TD5, harness from rocker cover was leaking engine oil and the capillary effect happened, basically it traveled throughout the inside of the wiring all the way back to the ECU. New harness and ECU fault fixed. Great video once again 👍👍

If I were to install a total different ima system from same year Honda Civic hybrid but from another car, do you think it’s gonna work? That includes ECU. From under the hood and the ima ecu Do you think I need to download software from Honda at the dealer or using the little obd you had could do the job ? I get ima light engine light and battery light, it only charges 11.56 volts once I rive it to 2000 rpm Charges 13.96 volts

Hi guys.. i have 2006 Civic Hybrid, ran into problems and i solved it and also echo many of what you have stated above. my story: combi meter lit up like Christmas tree. when cold the car ran ok, but with heat soak or long idle, the car fails and these codes are present P16D6 P060A P16D5i confirmed by having ice water and when the car failed, i cooled down the ECU with the ice water and it fixed the car temporary, then it over heated again. ended up reading more on the net and found a used ECU. got the keys reprogrammed and all is fine. sounds like many of us have had this problem.

It’s a bad ECM. I had a problem similar to this with my 2008 Element SC. Had it at the dealership 12 times till a Honda mechanic over heard the conversation and said he had only seen it once in his 20 years as a Honda mechanic. Although is super rare for Honda’s, it does happen.

Nightmare number dos. No TSB or pcm update? Thanks for another great video.

Just curious, what part of Tx are you located at? I just noticed the registration sticker in the Civic is a TX registration sticker.

Hey Erick, before you go any further, you need to check out that new "wrench light" that came on, that could be a good place to start.

Had a problem on my 09 Crv......where different codes came up, bought a sin relay, but before installing, I tested the negative cable from the battery and I could turn it. Took apart cleaned used new screw and problems went away. I noticed on your Honda there is a new end on the negative cable, has this been tested? Jim

Had similar I encountered 2006 civic hybrid with multiple DTC have similar approach diagnostic procedure & end up fixed it with faulty gauge module assembly...

GREAT DIAGNOSIS. To add to here: It looks like a bad PCM. Hondas are known for PCMs going bad and making the transmission behave wonky. I've changed a few. But first. I would attach a couple of incandescent light bulbs as test lights to the powers and grounds...and some tiny 6 volt incandescent bulbs to the 5 volt references that to go the transmission. And put all the bulbs under the wiper arm...and drive it until it goes bad. This way you would see if it is one of those lines going down. And why incandescent bulbs? Because incandescent bulbs load the circuit slightly. I once caught a 5 V ref going low with no sensors connected on a Buick, once it was driven for a short while. It was a bad PCM.

Dear Mr. Eric, it looks like it is a PCM heat related issue and maybe there is a layer pack of oil inside the PCM that is for cooling purpose which starts to leak due to excessive heat and causes such symptoms considering the location of the PCM in the stove engine compartment instead of being located in the center dashboard console which indicates either a design error or intentionally made this way to be compatible with manufacturer's obsolescence directives. Enjoy your tine & take care.

Nice vidio

Just tell the customer that he drives a piece of junk! Well if you didn’t, he knows now. 😂

Only thing that changes after some miles driven under the hood is temperature. Where PCM/TCM is. I would try to warm it (PCM) with a heardryer and see can it provoke the problem. Could lose ground or power on something because of heat. After a while it cool down and Kontakt is back.

The second I discovered that the tcm was integrated into the ecm I would have had powers and grounds backprobed to that “pcm” and would have test drove it and watched for power or ground dropout during the intermittent symptom. If that would have checked out then I could confidently call a faulty ecu. I like checking my power/ground supplies dynamically.

Interesting video, hope you will eventually pinpoint the issue before buying a new PCM. Just wondering, did you pull out the fender on the front driver side? It looked like there is nothing between the wheel and the PCM at 46:25. Could be water/oil from road splashing up onto the PCM connectors. (Bad news) Also, I wonder if you followed through verifying each of the relevant wires from PCM connectors to sources as discussed in 25:30 thru 30:40.

You would make a great teacher at automotive trouble shooting 👍👍👍👍

minimo....wow thank you masther eric for sharing ........i like your channel and i learned with your channel........question. after check the main relay. the circuit. no can be the main realy get hot and stop woriking............thank you.......forever and ever......

I had a Honda civic that acted up when it would rain. Rain getting in ecm. It had trans problem and running problem all intermittent. 2013 Honda

The Louis Rossman of car repair.

That’s crazy I didint think that refilling my a/c would cause harm after all figured just had a small leak time to add some this year. Drove it down the street after getting refrigerant stopped at a market real quick left after on with the wife . Came back engine running ac running but park indicator gone and couldn’t shift. My first instinct was wft some computer is acting up after the recharge ? So I unplugged the battery plugged back in. It let me drive home before it stalled, crazy stuff man but crazy to see a/c as one of your codes

Good job man. What and adventure driving in a car that quits constantly. Could you open the old ECM/TCM when you have replaced it ?. Probably the TCM is giving up after a certain amount of glitches going into protected mode or something you can clear taking the power out. Not an auto tech, but worked in a body control module long ago, they have THREE separe grounds and powers, that is because it control so many thing that they need to be fused independently. But in the case i'm telling you, the logic was feed from the three power using diodes, so you need to blow all the fuses to kill the logic section. Putting the two inside the same case could make sense, it reduces costs. (for the manufacturer ... RIP owner.).

I owned a 2012 Prius that worked trouble-free for several years until one day the flashers/turn signals started flashing non-stop. My mechanic finally found a probable short in the wiring inside the dash (10 hour job to open dash) after being in the shop for a month. Thousands of dollars to fix, including a new BCM that evidently was damaged because of the fault. So I sold it asap thereafter. Although the Civic hybrid is different from the Toyota system, the bottom line is when a hybrid vehicle ages, they can become very expensive to repair.

I have the exact same car with the exact same problem!

too much info..thank..exciting

I have a problem like this on Accord CL9, intermitent, but with other codes related to shift solenoids, all tests passed,I replaced the solenoids, check all the wires and connections,pcm is up to date with no damage. I am looking for a PCM now 37820-RBB-E57.

Hey bro I have a Honda Civic hybrid 2007 and a bout a month ago when I parked at my apartment it would not turn over and when I turned the ignition the dash light kept flickering and it will not turn over. Do you know what problem it maybe? I bought a new alternator but my mechanic said it might be a hybrid system problem.🤷🏽‍♂️🤦🏽‍♂️

I just fixed the same charging problem with a civic hybrid. I own a shop here in Houston called “Hybrid & EV depot”. You are knowledgeable but I don’t know if you are just entertaining viewers to get views but your diagnostic procedure jumps right away to complex schematic analyzation and stuff. I fixed mine for good in and figured the problem in less than 20 minutes. I also have s tip and don’t share this by making video ok? ….never mind I should not you might make a video of it.

You need a can of Freon that you should be able to get from an online electronics supply source online. Also watch Diagnose Dan videos. He had a case study where a component acted up and he was able to make it act normally with Freon. Making it act normally didn’t solve the problem but helped him diagnose the problem.

As others have said, fluids can work their way inside the wires. Did disconnecting the battery reset it. Could it be a problem caused by heat? I remember the 70s Ford ignition modules failing and having to pack them in ice to get home. It could be an electronic component failing from heat that cools down when the power is disconnected. You also had a brake code. The brake has to release the shifter. Maybe Honda has some type of brake failure mode that limits the vehicle speed or takes it out of gear. When you removed the battery cable and restarted it, when you put the key in at 41:17, the indicator was showing park and drive at the same time. Could it be a problem in the shifter or shift indicator that the vehicle doesn't know what gear it's supposed to be in?

This is how it is in the Diagnosis world!!!

Did you get your wiring diagram from Autel? Or buy it online?

There is a honda hybrid 2007 ( same as that) the battery drain out so fast .. I found put that the problem comes from the backup fuse (23 fuse 10a) the battery is new By any chance do you know what's causing the problem ? Thanks

Mine was acting up like this. And I did the speed sensor. Front black 180$ at honda, solved it. So far so good 👍. And mine was acting up the most, when it was 🌧 raining. I know weird. I did grounds, refresh. It seems good now. Knock on wood 😴.

Hello I am car electrician in Greece and I have a problem with a Honda civic hybrid ,it blown the ima2 fuse 10A next to battery every 2-3 days but I can't find wiring diagramme ,do you know what supply this fuse?

The comments bro! The oil! I would definitely go looking for the source.

Hei man i had same problem, you have to go under the car, and clean the ground wires and add new screw from coper. This did it in my case...