I just wanted to say thank you. I borrowed a GX200-powered pressure washer that hadn't been run in a couple of years. The carb was completely gummed up with old gas, and this procedure had it purring like a kitten in no time. Thanks!
Thank you very much for the tutorial. Saved me from buying a new carb. Pressure cleaner works great now and actually started quite easily after I cleaned all ports and jet. Thougt the carb was toast with all the gunk in it. Again, Thank you!!!
Worked great, thanks for the walkthrough. My issue was that little brass jet nozzle was clogged. Along with a lot of carb cleaner, I used the tiny wire from a bread tie to push the clog through.
Thank you for sharing...this helped me rebuild a carb on a pressure cleaner with less the 10 hours. Put it away a couple of years ago with no gas in it, but ethanol still messed up the carb.
SixtyFive: Thanks a Ton. Watched your video and was able to take my GX160 carb off and clean. Seems to run fine now. Had a problem with gas getting into the oil case. Not sure if float was sticking or not. But sprayed it well like you advised and it seems to be running okay. Your video is a great service. TBR in Michigan
Just watched your video---I broke the carb down on a mid 90s Honda HRM 215 PDA and did a pretty good clean on it but not as thorough as you show in this video. Mower had been sitting for several years under a carport and I inherited the task to get it functional for a community garden. Well, the gas tank had water in it, the carb bowl was incredibly dirty and the main jet was plugged solid. I used a stripped twist tie to unplug and then the carb and choke cleaner... Anyhow, once I got it all back together, with new fuel and air lines and clean gas...it started 1st pull. That's the good news. The not so good news is that this unit has a throttle handle that shows, choke, fast run, slow run and fuel shutoff. It will start on choke and go immediately to fast run..but it won't drop to slow run or fuel shutoff. Could this be the petcock assembly that's causing it...I partially disassembled it but put it back together. I'd like to have it functioning like it's supposed to. Any help appreciated.
@mickydunn2001 The emulsion tube is behind the main jet. It is in the tube where the main jet goes. I did not remove it for this video as is was stuck and easily strips out. It is very very rarely dirty, so if doesn't budge I don't remove it. By spraying through the bottom and through the passage in the front opening of the carb it forces carb cleaner through the passages(@ 5:00 in the video).
Yes it is right above the main jet. It presses out by pushing it down through the throat of the carb. I don't show it in the video because it is easy to cause damage to it. Just screw out the main jet and then push out the Emulsion tube. This is usually only done when other modifications to the motor have been done ie: headers, porting, high flow air filters, etc.
Some fall out and some take a little force. You can use a screwdriver. Sometimes it may be necessary to remove the choke butterfly to gain better access.
It will still run the same. The power gains are very small but because it is louder it feels like more power. Re-jetting changes the fuel to air ratio being sucked it. Your engine will require the same ratio it just sucks in and expels a small amount more with an easier flowing exhaust. I would just make sure it has a clean air-filter on it.
They should be threaded into the intake manifold. I would take the air cleaner off. Take the two nuts you removed and thread them onto ONE of the bolts/rods. Tighten the nuts to each other and you should be able to use a wrench on the inside nut to unscrew the bolts/rods.
@bizzyfingers... Why would you want to? The ONLY time you remove a governor is if you have built the engine from ground up and it is going to be on a racing machine. If you remove a governor on a stock engine you will cause extreme damage and blow it up. You will not get more power in the given rpm range. It is a misconception that the governor limits your horse power. It is there to maintain a given rpm and keep the engine from over revving and blowing up.
@buggatii12 ........... The first thing you need to do is pull off the starter shroud. Then try turning the engine by hand. Look at your go cart clutch and make sure it isn't binding.
thanks, took it apart pretty clean, few specs, blew out ports, put together and appears fine but may be too warm out now. did notice that choke butterfly did not fully close in choke position. can move cable to get full close ill try next season, cant find any reference on how tight the flap should close to provide correct negative pressure. meanwhile back is killing due to 15 hard pulls. should have stayed with old hand shovel :) have half marathon training to complete and may not be able to do it. your video was great, i took it all out , apart and back.
Also don't forget when you remove the main jet to also take out the emulsion tube and clean to make sure all the holes are not blocked or gummed up, this is a major cause of hard starting and needing to use the choke to keep it running.
You're welcome. That's great to hear. If your's is a 2 stage I have another video that may help you get a little more out of your snow blower ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EMAgb3QNEE8.html
Thanks so much to 65ford for posting this. I have a petrol-powered water pump with a Chinese clone of the GX160 engine. Nearly everything shown in this video was exactly the same and I had no trouble cleaning out my carburettor and getting the engine working again. This problem was caused by leaving fuel sitting in the carb. for 3 or 4 years whilst the pump sat unused. I will be sure to drain the bowl next time and avoid this happening again.
the only way to clean those holes is with correct sized pins, or thin wire, then a soack in solvent, finished off with carb clener. yes the tubes are often "stuck" in, but can esily be pushed out with a blunt spatula NOT a screwdriver. Poin number two is that the idle mix screw can be removed, following hondas approved service method, you snap of the end, then reove the nib from the carb body using a suitable sized piece of tube pushed over the remaining brass. Still excellent vid though.
At 7:42 I am working on the side that bolts to the engine. You shouldn't be able to physically see leaking there. If the carb is leaking most of the time it is do to a bad gasket or bad needle/seat.
I agree. But keep in mind most of the people that watch this video have never attempted something like this so I am trying to keep it as simple as possible.
You're welcome. If you want to prevent it from happening again I recommend using ethanol free fuel for all your equipment (puregas dot org lists local stations without ethanol). -Moe
my honda is not even 4 years old, it has never started easy, and sometimes impossible when very cold. gas was good, plugs changed, i feel it either had bad gummed up carb from first season (it sat unused after purchase) or a defect in choke/carb. runs fine when started, restarts warm fine, and no other issues. probably doesnt have 25 hours on it.
I work on a lot of carburetors. I would say 90 percent of the time I have to replace the seats because of this bad fuel. The needle most of time can be cleaned. Exception is rubber tipped.
Hi, Great vid, the only two things I would add to this,baring in mind i've been a small engine service tech for a tool hire firm for years, is I don't agree with your comment about not removing the rmulsion tube and cleaning it properly, as the air holes of which there are several getting gradually larger all the way up the side of the tube always clog up / block completely with "varnish" (residue) if fuel has been left in the machine for some time without drainining ..continued in next comment.
@buggatii12... No just a keyway. It is only a suggestion as your description is vague. Maybe a few more details would help. What lever? I assume you mean the pull start rope?
I have a honda clone engine on my go kart and it runs perfect except every time i turn right it cuts out and i cleaned the carb and tried everything I can think of but it's still the same. What could be wrong???
If i put on a straight pipe- type exhaust on my gx 160 do I NEED to get a higher performance airfilter and re-jet kit for the carb. or will it still run normal without modifying anything else?
I tried to lean my carburator while still on my Honda HS928 snowblower. While trying to get the emulsion tube out to clean it I broke off the plastic arms the float attaches to. Can this part be replaced instead of buying a new carburator?
hi was wondering if you could tell me, i have a honda motor gx 160 but when you take the air cover off it does not have the big yellow thing in it like yrs whitch i awsume is the air filter but i take the lid of it has black foam in the lid and the bottom says oil fill line. whitch i think you put oil an the bottom of it. can you tell me if that sounds normal
Do yourselves a favor and antiseize all bolts and screws, especially if they are steel to aluminum. Use approved antiseize around the muffler if you are unlucky enough to have a catalytic convertor. Cheap or incorrect antiseize will "poison" the cat and it will not clean the exhaust.
How often should one of these engines get serviced if used on a building site for most of the day and getting turned on and off maybe a dozen times a day ?
Oil change every month or two. An air filter every once in a while depending on how dirty it is: dusty conditions need it every oil change, cleaner air conditions maybe once a year or longer. Generally a spark plug doesn't go bad but you could do that once a year.
What is the pilot/air screw setting? I can't get my 5.5hp gx160 clone to idle off choke unless its hot but it will run above idle without choke. It's a brand new carb and I'm having trouble setting the pilot screw. Thanks!
Usually there is a limiter cap on it. Screw it out as far as possible. If no limiter cap then usually around 2 turns out. You can also turn the idle up a little as it may be set a little low.
Not likely. The gx240 and gx270 share a lot of parts though. If your missing these part and trying to put back together an engine, Ebay is your best bet for used parts.
i have a brand new 196cc clone that surges with the choke off at all speeds, i have heard these are set lean from the factory and using a torch tip cleaner to enlarge the main jet will fix the issue, is this true?
Yes. To meet the EPA requirements the set them as lean as possible. The problem comes if you live at a different elevation than they set it up for. I generally use a micro drill bit, but a torch tip cleaner will work as well.
Oh, and I've tried to get the muffler off but I can only get one bolt out...the other is rusted badly...any tricks to try and get the rusted one loose? thanks.
sixtyfiveford You misunderstand. I wanted to replace the muffler...it's in bad shape after the years outside. Would torching it help? Also, please see my post from 15 hrs ago below...need your thoughts on that.
sixtyfiveford Ok. How about the post that deals with the petcock assembly. It doesn't have a valve shutoff like some Honda's I've seen....it just has an inlet from the gas tank and an outlet to the carb...I'm just wondering if I got the petcock back together correctly so the throttle handle would move thru the 4 positions listed: choke, fast run, slow run and fuel shutoff. thanks. If you want to email me here is address---- acsny6750@yahoo.com
I just started to take mine apart & I decided to take the valve cover off to give it an inspection and I noticed that one of the rods has come out from underneath the lifter and now the lifter is loose. Any idea what I'd need to do to fix this or is it junk now?
They can loosen with vibration. Just put the piston at top dead center(you can look into the spark plug hole) on the compression stroke and adjust it to .005-007 intake and .007-.009(gx160) with a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and valve stem top.
