Here's a easier way to do it. I have a 2014 registered NT700. Either run the bike up onto a row of 6 inch blocks or use a bike work lift. Remove the rear shock lower bolt as that allows the swing arm to drop an extra 2 inches. The exhaust and rear mudguard do not need to be removed. The spindle nut is now accessible with a socket. The rear caliper can also be taken out and down, over to the side and held securely with a bungee cord. The wheel can be removed. I initially used a row of 6 inch blocks the first time. I bought an hydraulic bike work ramp which makes it even easier.
Thanks very much! This is a much easier way to do the wheel removal. I just used a bottle jack on the swingarm to relieve the pressure and remove the bottom shock bolt, then remove the axle bolt and axle, and the caliper set bolt. Then jacked the swingarm up to remove the wheel.
I like your videos! Very well done and informative. I recently got 2010 NT700V, and thought I would just grind down the box-end of a 27mm combination wrench (so it would slip in-between the muffler and the axle nut face), and remove the wheel without removing the muffler and all that other stuff. Wrong. Once I got to there, I found that the 14mm disk brake caliper holding screw was too long to come out with the muffler in place. And loosening the muffler mounting screws did not give me the room I needed until I had practically removed it. And then what to do with the disk brake assembly in-between the the rear wheel and the muffler...and on, and on. I ended up putting it all back together and taking it to a dealer. But if you're going to do it yourself, the muffler-removal route like you demonstrated is the way to do it.
You could remove the brake hose clips to give you more flexibility working the caliper on and off the wheel if your removing exhaust.. I found that removing the 2 main exhaust mounting bolts just out a few mm will give enough flex to the exhaust to push the brake stopper bolt back enough to put the wheel back in ..
Very helpful videos, great job producing them! The wheel rear wheel can be removed without taking off the exhaust system if the brakeline is disconnected from the caliper, giving the needed wiggle room to remove it. Bleeding is straightforward, access is a little tight but not too bad
Dana Collins Thanks for the tip! It's funny that your suggestion comes in as I am in the garage doing this very same task again. LOL I try to base the videos mainly on the Honda factory service manual, but tips, shortcuts and time saving tricks are always welcome! It gives the viewers alternatives and options that they may want to take if they wish. I had a Honda mechanic tell me he can get the job done by putting the bike on a lift with the ass end hanging over the rear of the lift allowing you to drop the wheel straight down. He did comment that fussing with the caliper and collar is still a pain with the exhaust canister in the way tho. Seems like no matter how you slice it, it is a tedious job. I actually have gotten pretty fast at doing it the Honda way and don't mind it (too much). I look at it this way... for all the riding pleasure the machine gives me, a little aggravation every 15k miles ain't so bad. Seems like manufacturers have always found a way to do this to us at one time or another. It sure is easier than changing spark plugs in a 1969 428 Mustang! LMAO
These are really excellent videos, properly paced and properly filmed. I wonder why they say to remove the collar (at 03:40)? It doesn't look like you need the extra clearance, although maybe every mm helps!
Great video. One tip I would suggest which makes this a little easier is to get the bike onto it's centre stand with a paving slab or something of a similar height beneath it - that extrat inch or so it give you makes a massive difference, though you do have to really pull hard to get the bike onto it's stand. Worth doing though!
Run the bike onto two inch planks for front & rear wheel . Then put a piece of 2 inch thick wood where the center stand goes down . Then pull the bike onto the 2 inch wood ( the bike is basically level as though it was on the ground). Then remove the 2 inch plank from under the front wheel & then the 2 inch plank from the rear wheel ... Now plenty of room to drop out the wheel +++
Be careful, the product you are suggesting for greasing the splines is not the good one: You are suggesting Molykote BR2 plus grease (~3% MoS2) but Honda asks for a paste with minimum 40% of MoS2 (paste, not grease) such as Molykote GN or GN plus for the splines. This point is extremely important in order to guarantee long-term durability of the splines.
Ok this is a problem with this bike but the best and fastest way to get this wheel off is to use something that will allow the back wheel to hang over. If you don't have a lift you can make a two piece ramp out of wood, so you push the bike up on a ramp wide enough for you to get off without falling over, then you simply slide out the angled part which will then allow your bikes back wheel to hang over, then undo the bolts and drop the wheel out. But it would have made more sense for Honda to provide a better means of access to the rear wheel. Mind you, you don't need to take the back wheel off that often if you own a mushroom puncture repair kit.
My local motorcycle mechanic (about 200 years old, former army engineer) recently changed my rear tyre and serviced the brakes without removing any of the Tupperware or the exhaust. Apparently he just jacked it on his ramp and said it dropped low enough to do everything he needed. Said it was a breeze. All good if you have a stable place to rise the bike high enough I suppose.
I have a friend with a lift that has a removable plate which would allow the wheel to be dropped down (ala Goldwing?) and I'm wondering if this would facilitate removal of the rear wheel without taking the fender section off. What do you think?
Hi I need to change my rear disc. How long do you think this would take and would someone with little knowledge other than this video and manual be able to do this. Thanks
What an interesting set of informative and instructive videos. How about a video on a brake fluid flush? I just received my 2010 NT700 V from USA to second owner north of Toronto Ontario. From there I trucked it byTFX TRANSPORT to my home in Vancouver. I am happy so far, but still getting to know it. The height is no problem in spite of my 5' 8 " height. HOW ABOUT MAKING A VIDEO ON A BRAKE FLUID FLUSH? Thanks for your help. George
George TM Hamilton Hi George, I will be soon coming up on my 24k mile scheduled maintenance which is a big one. It includes brake fluid flush, antifreeze, spark plugs, final drive oil, and air cleaner. I will most likely tackle the dreaded valve adjustment at that time as well (yeah... I'm a gluten for punishment). I hope to do videos on all of it and the celebratory beer drinking session there after. LOL
hi, thanks for uploading this videos. i'm going to need to do a brake pad change soon. i assume that as its a linked brake system then i would replace the front right pad with the rear pad as a pair. could you do a video dealing with the brakes?
This looks very easy but then it is bran new bike. I have 700va from 2006 and needs a caliper service. Unable to remove the caliper or the Caliper stopper stopper so removal of the wheel is not happening. Any advise out there?
Hi Geoff, yes I do! It has 25,000 miles on it now and still looks and runs like new. Its actually due for its scheduled maintenance, so maybe I can do a few more videos. I haven’t in years because I have had an insane past 5 years, but things have stabilized so I hope to back to riding and adding to the channel. Thank you for watching, and for the kind words!
@@Soundtechguy I am Glad things have stabilised for you somewhat , I and all of us would absolutely love an update on the bike and yourself , I have a deau and absolutely agree with everything you say about them , look forward to the update I will subscribe if I haven’t already , have a nice day
