Hood Strut Lift Mod 

Hey can you do a video on code p0171 I can't figure it out Thanks timmy

@@carz4lifeallcar236 Clean your MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor. Take the sensor off the air tube and spray MAF sensor cleaner on the small wires inside the sensor. Clear the code with an OBD II reader and you'll find that it probably doesn't come back.

@@TimmyTheToolman Love your channel Timmy. It has helped me out loads. But I need advice. Yesterdat my 99 4runner got the dreaded strawberry milkshake. I dont know where to start. I know the principle, ie replace the radiator, flush the coolant system, flush the atf. But what should my order of operations be? I love your vids because theyare very thorough, but im getting conflicting advice and I dont see a step by step video on youtube. ANY HELP would be much appreciated.

@@jordub Happy to hear you like our channel. For your pink milkshake issue, here's what I would do: #1) Replace radiator and remove the thermostat for the flush operation. Attach the send rubber line to the trans cooler but keep the return line disconnected. #2) Top off the radiator with distilled water and drain trans pan. #3) Add, 4 quart of fresh ATF via the dipstick tube. #4) Perform 12 rounds of the trans flush procedure like we show in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RumPXivBlk8.html #5) After 12 rounds of the trans flush procedure, drain the radiator and drain the trans pan #6) Add, 4 quarts of fresh ATF via the dipstick tube and refill the radiator with distilled water. #7) Repeat steps #4 and #5 two more times. #8) If the coolant is still not looking clear after 3 rounds, keep doing it until what's draining out looks clear. Follow this video to get the system at a proper 50/50 mix and to get the system burped properly: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oQsxmi-CNng.html #9) Also, if the trans fluid is still showing signs of contamination, keep performing the trans flush procedure. #10) Once the cooling system is flushed, reinstall the thermostat #11) Fill cooling system with a 50/50 mix and properly burp the system #12) Once the trans fluid is looking good, take it for a very short drive to run it through the gears. #13) After the short drive, perform the trans flush again and run another 12 quarts through the system. The key to an auto transmission surviving after a pink milkshake is a good flush because auto transmissions don't do well when contaminated with water. If you caught the problem early and didn't drive it too far after the contamination happened, maybe you'll get lucky and your transmission will last you for a good long time. But, don't be surprised if you transmission starts to give you issues. Some guys get lucky and they end up still getting a long life out of their auto trans. Others find that they are shopping for a new or used transmission a short time after . For the trans flush, buy the cheapest Dex/Merc ATF you can get maybe at a place like Walmart. For your final flush operation, use the ATF you want to be running in your rig. I now it sounds crazy, but buy (7) 5 quart jugs of ATF. If the jugs are 4 quart size, buy (9). The best chance you can give your transmission to last is by doing a very thorough flush to get all the traces of water out of it. You might want to buy a couple 5 gallon used oil containers for this operation. Auto parts stores like O'Reilly's takes used oil. Utilize different store locations so the employees don't tell you that they can't take any more waste oil from you. Good luck and let me know how it turns out for you.

@@TimmyTheToolman YOU ARE THE MAN!

Hey Ken, great to hear you like what Sean and I are doing. We'll definitely keep the video train rolling down the tracks. You'll appreciate this mod every time you lift the hood to check fluid levels or work on your engine. Happy Wrenching!

You'll love it Rick. It's a very simple and satisfying mod.

@@TimmyTheToolman I installed this today and I love it, probably more that a grown man should. I installed Noico sound deadening on the underside of the hood when I installed it in the cab and doors and I was concerned that the extra weight would be a problem but it worked like a charm.

@@rickwolfe7386 I knew you'd like this mod. It's so satisfying every time you pop your hood.

I have a Santa Fe that has hood damage as I bought it cheap this way. Bought a used hood at the local ewe pullet yard, yes that's the actual name give it a Google search. Lol. Anyways the $35 hood was clear coat peeled off, same color but didn't realize something that simple being that the hood I picked up for $35 didn't have the strut mounts. Now I know a great way to get it to work hopefully, fingers crossed. Wish I knew how to spray a cheap clearcoat on it to make it look better as it's my daughters car for her high school years (just started high school) as soon as I replace the fuel tank and do a timing belt/water pump kit along with a few hydraulic lifters, small coolant leak. Has the 3.5 engine. Transmission shop had it already and said the transmission looked good when they serviced it. Yeah I use a actual transmission shop for servicing my vehicles when it's time or whenever I buy a used vehicle right away. Better to catch little problems early before they become big ones is how I see it.

@@dtnel just today I rattle canned the spots on the front integrated bumper on my company Santa Fe to shut the boss up. It looks better than the massive chipping the white car was showing with the black plastic underneath. If your daughter is worried just have the front clip wrapped in a close color vinyl. Fairly cheap in areas Unlike the mountain community I live in where everything is $$$. Unlike the bomber 3rd gen Toyota 4runner I bought my Santa Fe doesn't have servicable tranny fluid. And it shifts HARD once in awhile. I fully expect it to explode someday while I'm going over some obscure mountain pass. Like yesterday i was in crested Butte with the Santa Fe on a job 130 miles from home. It will explode while I'm being Dudley dooright soon I'm sure

@@whaterfoo take it to a transmission shop and have them check the bottom end. Maybe it's just a actuator or something a TSB would cover in detail. I service my transmissions when the shop recommends

I'm growing it again. Porno stash is back!

I looked at a 1st Gen Tacoma and it looks like the passenger side of the engine compartment is the same as the 3rd Gen 4runner but the driver side is a little different. You might have to drill and tap a hole or possibly install a rivnut.

@@TimmyTheToolman I went to Tacoma World as someone else commented below and found pics of a 02' Tacoma kit installed and that kit is different. Too bad it took me over 21 years to do something about the hood support rod:)

Good to hear you like the hood strut mod. Yes, there's lots to learn and that's what make automotive mechanics fun and challenging. You're very welcome Francisco. Happy Wrenching!

You will dig this mod for sure.

Hey Armando, I have no idea if they would fit your vehicle. Maybe check Redline Tuning and see if they have a kit for your vehicle: www.redlinetuning.com/

You're welcome. Good to hear our video helped you out.

You will definitely like this mod. Every time you lift your hood it will bring a smile to your face.

Well, the hard part would be finding springs that would work. The nice thing about this mod is the work has been done for you. You pay the money and you get something that works. The struts last for a pretty long time.

I think it was cheaper at the time we shot the video which was a while ago. Things change and we have no power over Leon changing his pricing. It's a cool and affordable mod. The savings before wasn't huge, like $10. That's two fancy Starbucks drinks or a nice strong IPA at a tap room. Do the mod. You'll appreciate it everytime you lift the hood.

Thanks and you're very welcome. Get yourself a kit and join the club!

@@TimmyTheToolman You're welcome!!. My 2002 truck is getting a lot oil into the engine air box filter. Do you have any idea about it? Its also burning a lot!!!! of oil.

@@Leino26 I think you might have a bad PCV valve. That's the thing that plugs into the the passenger side valve cover and has a hose attached to it that leads to the upper intake plenum. If you replace it, replace the rubber grommet too. Just be careful removing the rubber grommet. It will probably be very brittle. A needle nose pliers usually works pretty well to grab it.

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you so much . Unfortunately, it started after I change the PCV and rubber grommet . They both OEM parts.

I was wondering if Leon's kit would work for 1st Gen Tacomas but the available mounting holes in the engine compartment are different than the 3rd Gen 4runners. Who made the kits for the Tacomas?

Timmy The Toolman redline tuning , they make struts for a lot of other vehicles

@@fortis619 Gotcha. I guess they also make a kit for 3rd Gen 4runners. I like Leon's kit better because Leon took advantage of existing holes in the engine compartment rather than requiring drilling and pop-riveting the bracket in the engine compartment. And, Leon's kit is more affordable.

No clue. We haven't tried it on a Mazda. We work on Toyotas for the most part.

Ok, Matt, do the research for the length and strength struts you need. Figure out what brackets you need. Figure out the strut balls you need. Figure out the right size rivets you need and then do it for less. Time is money Matt. If you want to spend all the time to copy what Leon has done, go for it. The reason for the price tag is Leon isn't in the charity business. He did the research so it's simple for people to do. You're paying for the convenience of not have to source all the right parts.

@@TimmyTheToolman like I said... just seemed a little overpriced imo. With all due respect, he didn't invent the wheel here or come up with some brilliant new product. I apologize if I'm outta line for calling things how I see them... it just kinda threw me off with the price. With my business I always just try to feed the pig not fatten it and if I'm too high on my price point then I'd want someone to let me know. By all means I fully support people making a living. When I searched for similar products it seems that most other makes and models were more appropriately priced. I found it odd that the only 3rd gen ones I found were $20-30 more than other kits, for whatever reason. No offense intended. Your videos are always great! No one does it better imo

@@mathewcarpenter4272 Fair enough Matt. At the time we shot this video, I think there was only one other company that was selling a kit for 3rd Gen 4runners. After we made this video live, lots of people asked me to give them the dimensions of the struts we were using. That right there told me they wanted to use us and mainly Leon for the research he did for everyone. I told all of them that wasn't fair to Leon. I know Leon specs quality struts and hardware and his written instructions are impeccable. So, I think Leon's sales price is fair in my opinion. Glad you like the videos we make. Happy Wrenching.

Yep, it's a very simple and satisfying mod to do to your vehicle. You'll appreciate it every time you lift your hood.

They were part of the kit. Not sure of the size or what they were made of. I'm guessing you're trying to piece together your own kit.

@@TimmyTheToolman yes, i assume the stainless would be the best choice except im not sure if the riveter can handle them

@@alfaromeo4838 They seemed very lightweight to me, so I'm assuming they are aluminum. There's really not that much strain on those brackets. I'm assuming aluminum will hold up just fine.

We got bored reading your comment.

I agree Bob.

Hey Alex, not sure what you mean by Denso buzzer. On that passenger side of my 98, the only thing I had to detach was the windshield washer hose clip. Maybe you could take a picture of what you're talking about and email it to me. mtbtim@sbcglobal.net

@@TimmyTheToolman Hi Tim. When I looked up the part number, it is the "buzzer" that makes the locking and unlocking chirps. What I ended up doing is sandwiching it between with the stud that was provided in the strut kit.

@@alexm8543 Gotcha. Glad you figured it out.

+1

Hey Ryan, no we don't. But, what's the issue? Just like the emergency hand brake on an automatic, using the hand brake on a regular basis keeps your rear brakes adjusted. This is why you should always use it.

@@TimmyTheToolman my e-brake doesn't work at all on my manual 4runner. Just looking for a good place to start diagnosing the problem

@@anxietyfish5725 Are you in one of the rust belts of the country? Maybe your bell cranks on the rear of the backing plates are frozen. Check to see if they move freely. You know, you're rear brakes could just be way out of adjustment. Pull your e-brake over and over and see if it starts to get tighter (less throw of the handle). Like I said earlier, when you use your e-brake, it keeps your rear brakes adjusted. When you pull the handle, you pull tension on the brake cable that leads to the bell cranks on the backs of your brakes. The bell cranks move, pulling a cable inside the brakes that is attached to the parking brake lever. Attached to the parking brake lever is the adjuster plate that contacts the star wheel adjuster. If there's enough play in the brakes that the adjuster plate can move far enough to grab the next nub(s) on the star wheel, when you release the e-brake, the star wheel will turn adjusting the brakes shoes out a little. This rear brake shoe video will give you a visual of how everything works together to keep your rear brake shoes adjusted: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IJkVEBYSecs.html

@@TimmyTheToolman cool I'll try it out. And nope she isnt rusted :)

Don't know. Use the link we provide in the video description and ask Leon if it will work.

Hope it works out for ya Mr. skilla!

Or maybe you just replace the struts at the first sign they're getting weak to avoid having the hood drop on your head.

@@TimmyTheToolman I'm too cheap for that 🤣 i think they wanted $120 for two struts on a 4-year old car

@@vjmacintyre They failed after only 4 years? That's pretty pathetic quality.

You're very welcome. Great to hear you like this mod and it has given you the confidence to perform more of your own automotive work. All it takes is the Right Information, Right Tools and Right Level of Patience. Welcome to the World of Auto Mechanics. Happy Wrenching!

Yeah, it's a very simple and satisfying mod to do. You'll figure out how to make it work. Good luck!

It will depend if the strut is the right length and strength for your application. The way it attaches to the vehicle is something to consider as well. The brackets on the ends of the struts have to be compatible with the brackets on the vehicle. So, I would say these struts won't work on just any vehicle.

Good point. I didn't think of that one. Thanks for sharing.

Hey Lance, our buddy Leon did the homework to make up this kit for people. If we gave away all the specs for the struts and other related information about the kit, it wouldn't be fair to Leon.

Thanks Buddy. Glad to hear you're enjoying the Sic Mods we've been sharing. You're welcome and Happy Wrenching!

Yep, what's not to like? It's a very affordable, simple and satisfying mod to do.

Use promo code “sicmods” on optoffroad.com

Maybe… does it have 4wd? - Sean

Yes ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2fp5r8N9Hzg.html

It seems like there's lots of tension on the hose but there isn't.

Thats good to hear. I looked at the price and was thinking something so cool cant possibly be under a couple hundred dollars let alone under one hundred. Totally gonna do this.

Pro Pilot Pete Brown what brand aftermarket struts did you buy/install?.... we have something in the works for those with rear hatch lift strut woes... stay tuned!

Timmy The Toolman I think they where strongarm, something I found on amazon.

The solution is OEM. Mine are 20 years old and still hold my hatch up, even in single digit temperatures

Good to hear Tim. It's such an easy mod to do but very satisfying indeed.

Good to hear you found our video helpful. Hope the install went smooth for you.

It's such a simple and awesome mod. You will love it Daniel.

That's a very good point. I missed that benefit. Thanks Alejandro.

That's what I was thinking after the struts were installed, nothing in the way now! So much nicer that way.

We show how to remove the transmission cross member in our Transmission & Engine Mount Replacement video. Here's a link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g_4DiywsSbk.html Even if you were actually talking about the transmission mount, the video I linked shows that as well.

Ernie Perea your local salvage yard.

@@TimmyTheToolman I've tired several in Phoenix. Thanks Tim I'll keep looking.

They are the perfect length and I don’t think it would matter if you used rivnuts vs rivets. Rivets are provides with the kit.

@@TimmyTheToolman Was looking to build my own kit, 26" I reckon.

Yeah Colter, sounds like the perfect mod came at the right time for you.

I have that Astro Pneumatic rivnut tool. This one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TODXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I thought about using a rivnuts instead but I figured it would probably be overkill. There's probably not that much force being applied to the rivets and I'm guessing they will hold just fine.

@@TimmyTheToolman True, true. Not necessary, just a matter of preference.

@@twwtb I forgot to say I did move the washer tubing back behind the strut. I just ziptied it to some wiring I had run. We did film that but somehow I ended up accidentally cutting it out.

You'll love this mod, so simple yet so cool.

@@TimmyTheToolman I'm stoked to do it! That's for the super informative video as always! You've saved me countless hours of pain and frustration over the past couple years!!

@@cactuscooler48 You're very welcome and it's great to hear you're benefiting from our videos. We love hearing this so thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

Yeah, maybe not, but maybe it would if you can relocate some things that would inhibit the struts closing down on the sides of the engine compartment.

Did you end up doing this mod to your 1kz?

@@jonathancooper8016 Not yet mate!

I'm not at home right now. I'll text you the part # when I get home. If I forget, remind me. I'll provide this only because I know you. If it was somebody I didn't know, I wouldn't provide this because then I'm giving people a way to source these parts and not purchase from Leon. Leon did the homework to put this kit together for us so I'm not going to help people purchase the needed parts another way.

@@TimmyTheToolman Hey Tim, I get it. I have a spare set of lift left over from another project and was just wondering if it would work depending on the weight rating and extended length.

@@weijia8088 I'll give you a call when I get home. I'm in Lake Tahoe right now chilling.

Did you ever find the part number? I am thinking about doing this myself but definitely want to check weight ratings for my sport hood with some extra weight.

Don't know. You could just buy a set from Leon and not try to source your own parts or you can try some different bolt thread pitches in the hole and figure it out.

You're welcome and good to hear you joined the club. This is a very satisfying, affordable and easy mod to do. It brings a smile every time I pop my hood.

Timmy The Toolman A friend of mine has a winch XRC box on the driver side. How would you address this?

@@iadgreen28 Well, if he really wants the hood strut mod, he'll have to move it enough to make room for the strut or he'll have to relocate the winch solenoid box to another area of the engine compartment. If it will be too much of a pain in the butt to do that, he'll just have to live with the OEM prop rod.

I was thinking of using just that to do this mod... I wonder too

@@whaterfoo They are not the same shocks as the hatch door. The hatch door shocks are much beefier looking and for good reason because the rear hatch has got to be quite a bit heavier than the hood.

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks. $65 the eBay link is awesome. I was figuring so much more...

@@whaterfoo Yeah, not a bad deal at all.

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks again this is a nice mod.

Thanks Blake and you're welcome. It really is a Sic Mod that everyone should do that owns a 3rd Gen. I also have a 2000 3rd Gen and I bought another strut kit so I can have the mod on both my rigs.

Yeah, really. Any decent drill bit set is going to have that size drill bit. It's not like I asked you to break out a Flux Capacitor and travel through time. A 13/64 drill bit is what the instructions say to use. You can use what you want.

It is a very simple and very cool mod. You should do it.

It's a no-brainer. Totally Sic Mod!

Dan C. Sicmods Dan!!!

Hey James, I'm sure you've heard the term "Trolls" or "Haters". You obviously can't please everyone and some people are just a-holes. I've had some heated exchanges with people on this channel and on forums and I'm thinking one of these guys has decided to subscribe to our channel even though they hate me just so they can give a thumbs down to every video we post. It also could be somebody who is just jealous too. What's funny is we will get a dislike sometimes within the first 5 minutes of posting a video and the video is 45 minutes long. So, they didn't even have a chance to watch it. We even get a thumbs down when we advertise a party for our subscribers. How do you give a thumbs down to a party invite? Pretty stupid isn't it? Also, we get a decent amount of thumbs down for videos we know are clearly the best documentation of a job anywhere online. Why do they give it a thumbs down? No freaking clue. It would be cool if you could see who gives you a thumbs down but you can't. I always tell people there's no shortage of a-holes in the world. They are everywhere and they are even subscribed to our channel. What these people don't know is we don't give a crap about the thumbs down. They think they are hurting us somehow but it just makes us laugh every time we see the thumbs down pop up when we post a new video. Thanks for the comment James and taking notice of the idiotic behaviors of some people.

Have fun with the Sic Mod Upgrade.

@@TimmyTheToolman have you considered installing the Scarab Off-road under hood light kit? LED lights for the engine bay with a switch.

@@politesob No, we haven't. I know guys have done mods like this. That would be a cool mod to have more light. I just looked it up and I know the guy, sort of. We have mutual friends. Maybe I'll hit him up and see if I could get a kit to make a video.

@@TimmyTheToolman I have a kit ordered and can't wait to get it.

@@politesob Have fun with the install.

That's a good point Adrian. Struts will eventually wear out, just like everything will wear out, even you and I. Nothing last forever Adrian.

You're welcome Ludwig.

The sickest of the sic My Brother. You've got to get a set and join the club.

@@TimmyTheToolman would love to join the 4runner clubs your in brother

@@TimmyTheToolman already ordered a set

@@AntonioClaudioMichael What clubs are those? Do you want to join the Super Duper Secret Society of 3rd Gen 4runners? There's a hell of a initiation to get into that club.

@@TimmyTheToolman lmfao what's the initiation I just like making friends with 4x4 4runner owners I'm apart of a few 4x4 clubs for my ford excursion love going off roading in my excursion and in my 3rd gen 4runner

You're welcome Alfredo.

It's similar but Leon's kit uses a different and cleaner way to affix the strut to the engine compartment and Leon's kit is more affordable.

So I guess I over paid for a shiny sticker. So cool to see t4r and Tacomaworld sharing these sic mods.

@@ipaisnice You didn't overpay that bad. I like the fact the Leon figured out a way to use existing tapped holes in the engine compartment to install a bar studs rather than relying on drilling and riveting in brackets. I agree there are lots of smart dudes making cool stuff for our rigs. And, we're going to be making videos of all these cool mods.

Yes. I liked that he used a existing threaded location as well.

It's super sic and super simple. You'll dig it!

There's a friend at work that has a 1st Gen Taco and the available mounting holes are different in the engine compartment. The passenger side looks the same as the 3rd Gen 4runner but the driver side is different. You definitely could make it work though by either drilling and tapping a hole, drilling and installing a rivet nut, or possibly using a riveted on bracket similar to the one's used to affix the struts to the hood.

Thanks for the info Timmy! I will make note of this and see about getting it to work.

@@JLin576 If you do it, let me know how you got it done on that driver side. I bought this rivet nut setter kit but haven't gotten a chance to use it yet: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TODXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If it were me, I think I'd drill a hole on that driver side equal to the distance from the firewall that the passenger side threaded hole is and install a rivnut that has the right thread size and pitch for the ball stud. But first, I'd drill a small pilot hole to see how thick the metal is. If the metal is really thick there, then I'd just drill and tap the threads to the size of the ball stud. There are threaded holes on the driver side, but they don't match up with the available one on the passenger side. If you lived close to me, I'd say come on over and let's make it work.

@@TimmyTheToolman Tacoma is a bit different but Redline Tuning kit fits like a glove www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-can-go-wrong-with-my-truck-or-rysium-build.457350/page-4#post-15217698 . In Redline Tuning kit the lower bracket sits higher on the fender so it clears the washer tubbing without any modifications. It would clear the CC too. So Redline Tuning kit might be a good alternative to Leon's kits. (I'm not related to Redline, just happy customer)

@@RysiuMal For the Tacoma application, the Redline kit would be a good way to go. For the 3rd Gen 4runners, I really like that Leon's kit takes advantage of existing holes in the engine compartment so there's no need to drill and pop-rivet for the lower mounts. It's cleaner and easier for the person doing the install. Relocating the washer tubing is super simple. I just zip tied mine to a wiring loom I ran against the firewall for my transmission temperature gauge. Now, for people with the 3RZ motor with the cruise control unit in the way, I guess it's a toss up to what's easier. Making a couple short brackets to relocate the cruise control unit or having to mark, drill and pop rivet both the lower mounts in the engine compartment.