really nice locos 9F's both in model form and in real life. That model that you have just given the kiss of life to will have a longer working life than the real thing which is quite a thought.
Out of all of 9f Class Locomotives the BR Black 9f is all favourite I have to admit that Evening Star was the Last steam locomotive to built but I do like her but it is the BR Black 9f for me but my all time favourite freight steam locomotive is the 28xx 2-8-0 No.2857 which is currently lives at The Severn Valley Railway
Hi Bill, I love your videos. Another good one. But everytime I hear you saying ‘superglue’ I cringe. I worked in an adhesive manufacturer in Corby where we made and bottled the cyanoacrylate you use (in fact we made the brand you are using here) and I had to learn a bit about the chemistry behind adhesives. Please do not follow any advice you get in the comments section. Unless one has worked in a ‘glue’ factory, one has no idea. I see you have used loctite, or anaerobic glue as it should be called. You will be familiar with polystyrene cement and poly-vinyl-acetate. I would recommend you getting familiar with two part epoxy glues. There is so much I can tell you about cyanoacrylates, like why is there a difference between the different brands you use, and when to use them and when not etc. If ever you have some time for a phone call, let me know and I can answer some of your questions about adhesives.
@@dj_efk in short, when trying to repair abs plastics or bond 2 different materials like wood to plastic, use 2 part epoxy adhesive. Best known brand name in the Uk is araldite.
Fantastic. Another great video and another secret weapon from Amazon on the tools list. Yep super glue isn’t what it used to be, now know where to go. Next running session is gonna be tough to chose what to run first, the fleet is fast frowning. Thanks again for another great video, keep them coming. All best marc
Hi Bill, the super glue you used on this lovely loco is also sold by Tool Station, if you have one nearby. Keep up the great work, I always enjoy watching your very informative videos.
I just took a broken one to bits here. One of the frond rods was broken and the remains was not going in to piston and jamming it. So i got another broken one for spares
Hi. I'm over here in Los Angeles, a US modeler, but I'm enjoying your work for the first time just the same...I wish I had your prowess the way you just pull all the parts off so quickly and fearlessly..It's as if you're in a 1:1 scale engine house tearing down and repairing the real thing !! Am wondering if you too play classical or finger style guitar as I see no nails on your L hand and long nails on your right !! I'm 'like' # 437 ! PS. WOW !! >After< I mentioned guitar (above), at 18:42 you actually say "guitar string !!" Had NO IDEA !! Honest !!
Just found your channel. I will be back. I have many of this kind of generation (including a HD 2-6-4T). Impressed by the 9F but to get the 0-4-0 running smoothly at sub-sonic speeds was great. Is there a video somewhere on that job?
Did some wheel changes on my 1970s TT Fleischmanns and Zeuke 2-10-0s,sadly my eyes and hands are not as young as yours Bill, I really struggled getting the pushrod array correct....4 attempts over a week,they work now but not 100%, wish I had your patience
It may set it instantly but it won't bond as well in my experience. That's why I don't use an accelerator unless I need to fill gaps in a joint so the glue acts as a filler as well as a bonder.
Why did you have to wait until 9 O’clock to insert wheel ? Ha ha only joking! You certainly go much further than I ever do , I’ve never had the wheels off a loco. Got to admire the confidence you have going about repairs . I don’t have a vice so I’ve often wondered how you get wheels on again to correct gauge .
Hi bought a Fire engine Diecast model thinking it's the Right scale for my 00 gauge Layout it turned out that it more in scale with O gauge but I LOVE the FIRE Engine so it will stay but when I start a O gauge Layout I will put the the Fire engine on the Layout with one of its Ladders against a tree to make it look like a child was stuck up a tree and Can't get back down again and I have an area in My Garden where I have thought about temporarily putting a G scale Railway in my back garden and the Locomotives that runs the Dog bone Shaped line are American Outline Locomotives and the Name of the Railroad is Going to be Called The White Ballast Railroad
I notice that when you work with superglue you never use an accelerator spray. I find most modern CA glues really work much better if used with an accelerator. Some brands are sold together with the accelerator, or you can buy various brands of accelerator separately. For what it's worth, I've been using Mercury Adhesives medium CA for the last year or two, and have found it very good. I've been using it with Mitre accelerator, as I bought some Mitre before, and the glue itself set in the bottle after a couple of months, leaving me with a big tin of accelerator, which seems to work fine with the Mercury.
I have used CA accelerators, both commercial and homemade, in the past on various projects. I always found that using an accelerator resulted in a weaker bond compared to a bond left to cure on its own. I much prefer to use a fast setting glue with no accelerator. The exception is if the join has gaps that need filled with glue quickly.
Hi Bill HOPEFULLY YOU CAN ANSWER THIS I have a Hornby Tender Drive (R037 Lady Patricia) where two drive axles need replacing. This is an unusual tender drive in that there appear to be no screws that hold the base to the tender chassis. The base is metal and the chassis holding the motor is also metal. Any idea how to separate them to access the wheels? I don’t want to prise anything apart in case I break something!
You think? Baking powder sets superglue instantly like other accelerants which is great for some applications. But in my experience it sets the glue too fast and doesn't bond as well as letting the glue cure properly. I've used baking soda as an accelerant many times but rarely use it on locomotives. As a filler or any application where you need to sand the result down or need to set a big blob of glue it's great. A common use is filling overly worn guitar nut slots.
Remember the old add for superglue when it first came out , they stick a think rubber band together and have a gymnast bounce up and down on it on parallel bars , things have definitely changed . Have you tried the UV setting glue? Are they as good as they claim ? Great video as always , love watching you do your thing .
I haven't tried using UV setting glue no. That's what dentists use isn't it? I may try it but having used old style CA glues that set themselves very quickly everything else seems a bit of a faff.
I have a 04125A from Roco, motor in tender. Without cover on tender, it runs, when i put the cover on, it shorts out. tried to isolate the motor contact prongs but still having issues. any suggestions if possible
Not familiar with this loco or motor but it has to be that the tender cover is pressing on the motor and either causing a short or something to disconnect. Quite common for some Hornby locos with X03 type motors to have a similar issue where the loco body presses on the top of the brushes and causes them to pull away from the commutator. I'd prop the tender up something, run the motor and prod it until I found what stops it. Could be something as simple as a broken wire?
there is no broken or lòose wires it picks up.power fairly ok from tracks. have bought this loco 2nd hand from someone else. was thinking of taking actual metal from the cover by machining it off but then thought against it as it may be part of its own adhesion weight to tracks. there appear to be signs of previous material to insolate against power shorting but that was also non existent when i opened the unit for 1st time. and the space inside doesnt allow for much as i could see this cover most likely touches when closed off by screws. not sure what material would be suitable for this. thank you kindly for response initially. i enjoy watching your videos
No leave the lip. Only sand to remove "flash". Bits of plastic that shouldn't be there. Sometimes the surface of the gears gets a little scored as well so that's worth sanding out but don't sand away any of the intended moulding.
At the moment you can't! I have too much on and am taking a break from working other people's locos to catch up on my own stuff. Stay tuned here and on my website for any update as to when I will accept new requests. When I do they are made via my website.
As kid i had 2 engines. Flying Scott's man engine drive and royal Scot tender drive. Tender was so bad. It became Henry stuck in tunnel. Until I figured out how to make it work again
