Wow. That's perseverance! When you showed that the new port was upside down, I felt your pain. As someone who does game console HDMI ports frequently, you did very well. Not sure even I would have attempted to transfer pins from another port. I've never replaced pins myself but just so you know, in many cases some of the pins are unused/unconnected so you could probably use these pins to replace the vital ones.
I always knew it is more difficult than it looks !showing people the REALITY behind the scene's is a GOOD thing !and by the way: BETTER THAN FACTORY lol : )
Amazing video! Interesting to see through the eyes of a beginner And I've also had most of these issues) Practice makes perfect You earned a subscriber!
Showing the multiple difficulties when learning something new in electronic is always appreciated, especially from someone like you who's quite good at repairing something as complex as a PS3. Cheers mate !
Very good videos. I am new to repair personally. I recently replaced the front usb ports of an Xbox 360 using a donor board and I also had the same issues with the joints not melting. I realized that while my temps were good (370C) my fan speed was very low and I was only slowly heating up the motherboard. Then I ramped it up to max and the port got wiggled out and i eventually replaced it. Your technique where you melt the points with hot air before sticking the port in is very smart as I would try to wick the solder out of the thru holes before soldering it down, and it would end up being very time consuming and a waste of soldering wick.
Thank you for the video, Great job. I'm still learning like yourself I would try a different flux I like STIRRI-V3-TF Soldering Flux, also glad you got to figure out that you needed more heat, I would also had added more solder to those hdim pins. I really enjoyed this video keep up the great videos
Please do a video on a full reball of the PS3… you were so close in your last video! Reckon if you had the templates you would have done it! Loving your videos, and I’m rooting for you to finally nail the recalling! You can do it!!
300°C is usually too low. I don't do almost anything under 350°C, especially if lead free solder is involved. However i know my iron is calibrated and has a heavy tip - is yours cailbrated? At the lack of calibration, you can take solder wire of the type you expect the solder to be, and increase temperature until you can melt it, and then increase it 50-70° more! If you're soldering to ground plane (i.e. mechanical tabs here), you increase even more! Hot air at 250 is a joke as well. You have some of the solder that melts at 230°C, while your board is actively losing temperature left and right, gradients, so what are you hoping to accomplish? I used to hate wick, but then i found 1.5mm wide wick which works well! But it still needs to be wetted with fresh flux beforehand. When working with wick, you need to up the iron temperature once more again. Wide wick is basically unusable, because it wicks away all the heat, and fundamentally you have a bit of that problem with any wick, it goes into the spool. What always helps is to clip off a small length and hold it in your tweezers. I use a 2.5mm wide chisel tip for most things, because my current station only supports 4 shapes of tips, it's remarkably good station but very very old and does not have all the options that are available today. I have been able to try J-tip and K-tip elsewhere and i like those. There's almost never a case when i have to use a point tip, i have one for my station, but i wouldn't use it for HDMI connector and the like, very rare use, because its thermal transfer is really bad. Absolutely love the attempt to rebuild the HDMI port. Perhaps there's someone selling specialised HDMI ports for this model board though? It's good to buy board schematic, you can get PN from. The real "low melt solder" (with bismuth) is not something that i trust, but it appears you have standard 60/40 leaded, which is actually very good for repairs. I still use bismuth for removal of components. I also really like solder suckers for liberating holes. There are now ones which have a silicone tip, this is much better. Also the new ones don't have a warding around the reset plunger top, so you don't need to reset it with your thumb, you can whack it on your thigh or desk, makes for much better easier hold and with my tiny hands my thumb plain wouldn't reach. I used to have my own self modified solder sucker but now i use one i bought rather inexpensively. You should get some Kapton tape to protect components you don't want to damage. Make sure it's not accidentally PET tape, which shrinks. Normally PET tape should be sold teal colour, but now they make it brown colour too, very misleading.
Thank you for the detail tips and suggestions! Where do you usually get board schematic from? I searched Fujitsu LH772 but couldn't find any results. I don't mind buying the schematic if it is available!
@@hardwarerepair200 Don't search for the laptop model number, search for the board number that you find somewhere on the board. Try to figure out who made it, Compal, Quanta, Wistron ASUS etc. Shady forums like vlab and remont-aud. Sometimes you find things on Electrotanya but there's a lot missing there.
@@hardwarerepair200 Ah i can't say that, the comment gets yeeted by RU-vid. I tried. Try to figure out the board OEM and the board model number, not the laptop model number. You might do fine with a board schematic which is similar and closely related but not totally identical.
300 degrees isn't much better than just not plugging the iron in. Flux helps loads, if you use it correctly. Putting it on the opposite side of the board is not using it correctly
8:48 I know something that could be useful for this problem. Using less wide solder wick sucks exponentially more faster than wide ones. I think 1.5mm wide solder wick is my sweet spot. Branded wicks are consistently wide but unbranded generic ones aren't, they tent to be wider... so maybe ordering 1mm? Yeah, It runs out very quickly, but it sucks instantly fast and you avoid pushing heat for long periods of time. Heck, even beginners with trash soldering irons or trashy tips with enough power to melt the solder can make 1.5mm and 1mm wick suck
I solder with my iron at around 350 degrees celcius, hot air goes around 350 too. It does kind of depend on the "thermal mass" an object has (so for teeny tiny solder joints I may go as low as 280), but with a small iron (or a small nozzle) I find that around 350 works fine in most situations.
Thanks a lot! I came across your Xbox video a couple of years ago during the COVID lockdown and it was truly inspiring. You're one of the RU-vidrs who motivated me to start soldering and experimenting with console repair!
@@hardwarerepair200 Those console videos are all about 14 years old now and my rework skills at the time were somewhat lacking but I'm delighted to hear that my content inspired you!
T12 soldering irons is not good enough for boards with hi heat dissipation. Try to get JBC based systems. Highly recommend AIFEN A902 it have 2 channels and it supports JBC cartridges C245 C210 C115 and C470. As it have 2 independent chanels you can do your soldering using 2 soldering irons it worth it. Best cartridges is genuine JBC (but it pricy) Magma witch you can get in bundle with this station fine to. So get full kit (3 handle + 3 cartridge for every handle) and you never ever look at T12. Your heat gun is like your soldering station ok but there better options like (quick 861DW, sugon 8630, Atten ST862D, BEST-BST863.) best regards.
I feel your pain so much. I really realllllyyy hate High temp solder, small pieces and the through holes to pin pieces in place these days. Its nightmarish and largely pointless other than F up repairmen.
@@hardwarerepair200 I deal with phone repairs which makes it even worse because you have a bunch of tiny modular boards which warp far too easy, its driving me nuts and the idea to flood the boards solder with my own simply to remove some parts is something I was forced to figure out on my own because it was the only option I could figure out.
@@hardwarerepair200 I just now broke my Magnifying Light which is a magnifying glass with a light on large flexible arm and I am truly dying inside right now. :(
@@hardwarerepair200 Ah cost me literally nothing a basic magnifying desk lamp but was a massive help when it comes to these things as it was a large magnifying glass on an articulating base I could just plop in front of my work and have a much better view. I am sure ill be able to fix it or get a new one but thats all time I didnt want to spend and I have grown quite fond of it for so long the plastic parts are kinda dry rotted hence the reason for the break.
Ok i don,t understand, you say you wathch how to repleace an HDMI port on RU-vid especially on Nordridgefix RU-vid channel and what you see? He Alex detailed explain how to do that a lot of flux, low melt sloder, properly heat, braided wire, and use of sucker pump, if you like repair this things don,t skip a step, do like he do step by step and watching a video over and over, no one is perfect but you must try hard.
HDMI replacement isn't difficult at all by itself, it's just your inability to solder properly and trying to install wrong parts is giving you problems.
I don’t think you understand the point of this video. He tries to make the most of the cheapest tools and do it cheaply, he tries to show the point of view of a true amateur. His abilities aren’t the problem here, everyone learns.
@@KuraV12 i understand that, but... to do any kind of electronic repairs - amateur or not - you need to know something, like the very basics, and looks like he has that, his equipment also isn't that bad i don't think for its purpose.... The problem is, that his aproach to solve the problems he encounters is fundamentaly wrong, every time - and as long as it serves as a log of his learning mistakes and errors - it's all good - i'm just affraid someone's gonna try to use it as some kind of guide to kick-start his own first attempts of repairing stuff...
