The link you refer to in 5:40 is a govt agency in GangZhou, probably any company in China need to registered what they put up in their web site to the povincial govt body as a reference. The number in the link is that reference number.
There's a wee slight difference in purchasing from a marketplace online and an authorized distributor online. For the marketplace, well, they live up to the stereotype of cheap Chinese heaven knows what you're getting. Distributors distribute a product that has documentation supporting that it is what you've paid for and it came from who the label says it came from. That's actually a big deal for companies, as that transfers liability should a safety component be unsafe or worse, counterfeit. With the Ali caps, you missed one test, voltage rating. For all you know, you ordered 12 volt capacitors and got 3 volt capacitors, which would correspond with the lower thickness. You can judge a capacitor by its thickness, as dielectric constants are, well, constant. Just as one cannot dissipate 100 watts of power from a driver chip or transistor in a package that's typically rated at 1/4 watt. I also remember back in the 1960's, when "Made in Japan" was literally a joke, cheap fall apart products with zero quality. That vanished quickly by the 1970's and Japan has maintained a good reputation. The same was true of South Korean products and Taiwanese products. Each swiftly learned that quality sells, rubbish only accumulated once people and corporations catch on. And I also remember, occasionally one will get a bad lot from a reputable supply chain. Ran into that with a North American Phillips television series where a *lot* of 47k resistors mysteriously burned in half, but replacements lasted for well over 20 years. NAP covered those and I'm sure they got a good deal from the vendor afterward. One can count on that with reputable vendors, not so much with Ali's marketplace that is largely fly by night. Reputation, it can easily take one 20 years or more to build a good reputation, it can take one a microsecond to destroy that reputation.
Here in the US I believe digikey has one of the lowest prices for shipping compared to mouser or newark, though you have to watch for marketplace items which may have additional costs.
it is worse than high ESR! the capacitors are thinner because they are fake voltage rating, in reality they can candle much lower voltage than claimed and this can cause a fire
There is a lot of triangulation fraud and other scams going through Digikey and other online stores. It seems criminals have targeted more niche markets that are not normally associated with scams.
For most of my DIY projects, I buy stuff from Ali. Yes, sometimes you get lemons, but on average I get good price/quality and I prefer that to pay 10x to a big reputable supplier. Ali allows nowadays access to tons of affordable modules and components that otherwise most of us wouldn't be able to afford.
As a former manufacturing executive from a well known supplier, let me explain. You are paying for lot traceability documentation not the parts. All manufacturers can supply and verify, if necessary authenticity. Only buy from authorized franchise distributors. Unless you like buying garbage and wasting your time. And no, do not send your garbage parts in for verification. It won’t happen. Send in lot numbers for verification which you will not get from AliExpress. This is true for all products, not just caps. Sorry, no free lunch.
I've long had a saying, "There is such a thing as a free lunch, alas, few can afford the price that it actually costs". Some years ago, the Army had gotten in a supply of tempered bolts. A string of failures and accidents with injuries ensued and Big Army investigated. Two suppliers decided to not go through normal channels, but to fudge paperwork and get cheap Chinese bolts that, while marked tempered, were mild steel, resulting in catastrophic failure. The suppliers enjoyed being guests of the federal penal system for some time. I'll stick with authorized franchise distributors, thank you. That documentation covers my butt, as with it comes responsibility of everyone in that supply chain and without it, I'm essentially naked and alone. I prefer covered, be it for a nut, bolt, diode, transistor, chip, capacitor, resistor, etc. At least then, I know that I'm getting what I paid for.
That's very useful information! It reminds me of a news in Singapore where a bench at a bus stop was stolen. It was later revealed that each bench cost $1,000 to make. Since there are usually four benches at a bus stop, it means it costs at least $4,000 to set up a simple bus stop. People were shocked back then and suspected some corruption. However, it turned out that the certification of the benches (proof of safety and durability) cost more than the actual bench itself.
The reason the AliExpress ones are thinner, have shittier print quality, and look like they've been sanded is precisely because they were something else cheaper, sanded off the old markings, and overprinted with what they're not.
Maybe, and it's just a semi-educated guess, your bank was suspicious of DigiKey because of online scammers who sometimes pretend to be DigiKey sellers in order to fool customers, and this had put the legit DigiKey company on a "must be whitelisted before, at the first transaction" list at your bank or network of banks ?
I would not buy any electric component from china unless i got surplus money and or time to waste. Especially on such cheap parts i would not try to save a few cent more. Each failed part costs more time than the saved money is worth.
From your trip to the LCSC website, it appears that they are actually a CCP front company, using government money to take business away from non-PRC suppliers...if JLPCB is the same, well then, they, too, are supported by the CCP, and not actually a "private company"
From what I know, in China there are no "private company". All big companies are supported by CCP in some way. Without the support from CCP, it's impossible for you and your business to be successful. Just something I hear from people. I hope someone wise here can verify or disprove the statement above.
As someone who's bought several things through AliExpress, it's often a good idea to check on who the seller at AliExpress is. I've had purchases go wrong in the past where something akin go 80 kg of product was supposedly delivered, yet never showed up, and the seller advises to go to the carrier and have them check to see if it's just in the back room or something. that's not generally how things are handled in the US, and nothing they provided included tracking numbers for any carrier in the US. On the whole, most of what I've bought through AliExpress has worked as advertised. but yeah, there are occasional stinkers, and when you go back, you often find that there are 3 or a dozen other sellers with similar products with about the same price, sometimes better. That said, I don't often buy tantalum caps, and don't claim to have the test equipment for that. Pretty sure that Mouser and Digikey are not going to be worried about parts sourced through them being used as comparison references. 🙂
Interesting have been using the ali express caps for a while now and they didnt have the same bad readings as urs, in fact they had the same readings( 0.06-0.08ohms) same as the Panasonics, maybe u just got unlucky with a bad batch since there's so many sellers selling them which is common from ali and other products. If they read fine they will be fine to use still but this just says to make sure u test them before use.
Nice suggestion! I think I need to learn how to measure DC leakage, as I am just a hobbyist. Do you have any suggested material/instruction on how to measure it?
@@hardwarerepair200 I'm a hobbyist too! The procedure for testing leakage current is to find a power supply capable of reaching the rated voltage of the cap to be tested. Set the supply at 0V and connect a properly polarized circuit including the supply, the cap, and a 1K ohm resistor. Additionally, place a voltmeter across the resistor and set it for mV. *Slowly* increase the voltage of the supply, and the capacitor charges accordingly, creating a voltage across the resistor that decreases slowly when you stop. You can find tables online that give you the allowable microamps for a Capacitance C and Voltage V. I personally adopted the equation (0.3*C*V)^0.7+.000004 uA for electrolytic caps, tantalum is much less. So testing a 220 uF 10V electrolytic, I expect the leakage to be no more than 98.1 uA. Multiply this by 1,000 ohms, and you should not find the voltage drop across the resistor does not exceed 98.1 mV at steady state after sitting there after 5 minutes at the rated voltage. The lower the mV, the better the leakage is. This doesn't hurt the cap, in fact it helps reform a cap that has been unused for a while.
@@hardwarerepair200 I put a 1K ohm resistor in series with a power supply capable of the max voltage and SLOWLY increase the volts to the rating, noting the mV at the end of 5 minutes dwelling. This mV corresponds to the leakage uA. Tables showing allowable values are in datasheets. If you don't have a datasheet find a typical table for your chemistry type (electrolytic, tantalum, etc)
@hardwarerepair200 It's my go-to for fixing electronics. After a short circuit incident with my 3D printer most of the chips on the motherboard are sourced from Mouser.
@hardwarerepair200 It's a Voron so it's not like a blown board would mean scrapping the whole machine. Built it from parts myself. The flying gantry and nozzle endstop take the guesswork out of bed leveling.
I'm sure you've got many comments since this video and you've improved your skills. My main constructive comment is: never force a chip off the board. When it's ready it'll be floating on molten solder. Keep gently poking at it and when it's ready it'll "wobble". If you force it, you are ripping pads and traces. On my channel you can see my own struggle with the very same process so I am not here to point fingers! It's a learning curve! Thanks for sharing your tests!
I ordered from LCSC for the first time a couple of weeks ago and so far everything has worked - looks like a good option indeed. But for more serious projects I always go to Mouser and Digikey. I don't think those measurements can be 100% accurate but it's pretty clear that Aliexpress sold you junk. Oh, and first time here, you've got a new sub :)
Oh Tony, didn't expect to see you here! I have been watching your videos for quite a while. I like your videos especially the PS3 repair series! It's my honor to receive your comment and your sub here!
@@hardwarerepair200 Have I become so famous? :D I still have a PS3 under the desk with YLOD, factory sealed. Will likely need a new RSX and if you watched my BGA rework videos you understand why I'm reluctant to try! :) Keep up with the good work, I look forward to your next video!
I think it's the magic of YT algorithm. It brings people who worked on PS3 together. YT suggested me the videos of you working on PS3s, that's how I know you and your channel! There are also a bunch of other people here in the comment working on PS3 too (RIPFelix, Rambonz, and etc.) The moment we uploaded videos about PS3, we are all linked together :D
For simple measure like this, Fluke 101 can handle it very well. Fluke 101 cannot handle capacitance over 1000uF and cannot measure the RMS of AC voltage accurately. If you don't need these advanced features, 101 is up to the job.
Capacitance is measured by charging up the capacitor using a constant current source and measuring the time it takes to reach a specific voltage level , like for example 0.2v - so even some basic 15-20 dollar meters should be able to give you a capacitance value within 5% or so of the exact value. Where the cheap meters fail is by not having a REL button to zero out and take out the resistance and capacitance of the probes when measuring things.
Price + Quality combination wise, LCSC is the clear winner! Thanks for the video, as a beginner electronics enthusiast on a strict budget, this was very helpful!
Wow, yet another video highlighting the dogshit quality that consistency comes out of that dogshit country called China. If you buy from AliExpress you deserve to be scammed.
LCSC are pretty good. Also their semiconductors are pretty good. I got some DACs from Ali and my firmware didn't work with any. The output gain didn't seem to change no matter what I did. I got the same from LCSC and they all worked 100%. Imagine cloning a Ti chip and being so shit they don't bother with half the functionality of the real thing, probably based on their fakeass clients don't use that bit.
AliExpress sellers are scrap dealers giving you rejected or below spec products. You pay peanuts and get monkeys. I ordered 2200uf caps but all measured below 2000uf. Well, they are still "within specs" at the low side. No complaints as it cost almost nothing.
Nice video and the problem, as most know, is that a lot of Ali components are scrap PT salvage components. They've been picked-off of random scrap boards and often re-marked as something they aren't. Is it a cap? Yes. Is it the cap you need? Maybe. Is it in working condition? Maybe. What money you save at the time of purchase from Ali will often be lost when the product comes as fake, bad or an entirely different item. You get what you pay for. My rule of thumb with Ali is that if it's a packaged, retail item and I don't need it right away...I buy from Ali. It'll save me a buck or two vs Amazon or whoever else. If I need a chip or component for repair? I don't waste my time with Ali unless they're the only source. If that's the case, you order and cross your fingers lol.
