Ty ty. Thought I was going to have to run wires from the cab, and googled it. Your video popped up, and it was exactly what I needed. 2012 ram has the wire in the same place. I found it even without my glasses on. You saved me a huge headache.
Great DIY video Brian! I remember wiring up the cap on my '97 S10, but just spliced into the existing wire harness for the rear brakes. It was always a pain if I wanted to remove the cap. This is an excellent solution. Thanks!
Great video. Thank you for sharing. I just bought a used camper shell and I have to do this same project. You answered so many questions. Thank you sir!!
A friend just got a new camper top. The dealer for the ARE had no clue how to wire the 3rd brake light. They told him that he needed some type of converter and he needed to go to a dealer, after another $100 he got his truck light working! What is it with ARE dealers? When I got my top it was the same situation, mine was a Ford. Thank you for the informative video!
Most ford pickup trucks (especially superdutys ) have the extra wire for the camper shell 3rd brake light (light green wire sticking out of the harness, sometimes covered up with electrical tape so it may be hard to see or locate)
The 18+ super duties have a purple wire with a white stripe that is capped and sticking out of a harness between the spare and the hitch receiver up high by the floor of the bed and it has a big white tag hanging off of it that says “high mount stop”
I wired mine all the way up to the engine compartment then through the firewall and connected to the brake light switch. Discovered months later that on this 95 f-series there is a wire specifically for this purpose at the firewall near the ICM
i remember when i added the shell to my old 97 chevy truck. i took the truck highmount lense out and hooked to the power wire and brought the wire out, put the lense back in and sealed it with silicone then ran it all the way to the back to the light and ran a ground. worked great for years. didn't have a trailer harness on it with a wire dedicated to the highmount. but on any of the newer newer chevy trucks i've had, there is a light blue wire coming out of the trailer wiring that is dedicated for highmount brake light.
Thanks for this info. I have an 01 Ram and have seen that wire down there on several ocassions. It looked like a temp sensor but low and behold it is the brake light! Saved me a ton of time.
Thank you! I did not initially find it on my 2013 Sierra but after your video, I'm confident I could feel it, right where you said it is. I'll drop the tire on a warmer day and fashion a wiring harness.
Nice work, just that using solder alone is going to cause issues on some joins if they are exposed to stress and vibration as it will cold flow with time. Also with the "speaker wire" you often find that it is CCA wire, which does not solder well, so be careful buying the cheap stuff, and test it using a lighter to see if it is copper, and will run to red heat without melting, or is aluminium which melts and does not solder well, or is steel wire, which is magnetic.
Brain just drag the tool box with you :-) Also I recommend you do some quick connector work like I done to my Camper Shell : 1 2pin connector for 3rd Breaklight (RED shrink wrap) 1 2pin connector for Cabin ceiling light with light box inside the Camper shell so at night I can lighten up the inside 1 2pin connector for Emergency lights (Yellow shirink wrap) And the 2 ping for the Cabin light is actually 2 way because I do have a Solar panel on the camper shell so it charges the battery while the car is parked in the field. Video about it is coming.
Just use a single multipin connector instead, so that you only have the single point to connect and disconnect. I did the same with the shell when I had one, using a 3 pin plug and socket to get the third brake light and an interior light while still being able to remove the top. With my car I added a LED light to the boot to replace the wimpy little glow worm it had, and used a plug and socket so it fits to the rear shelf, but is still easy tor emove when needed.
@@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071 I recycled some connectors off of old wiring looms for my use, so they were free as well. Wire was salvaged out of the scrap yard when I went hunting for some interior parts, and grabbed them along with a chunk of the wire loom as well.
You have a way of making what seems like a simple diy even better with high quality workmanship. And I didn't know that trick with soldering iron to heat the shrink tubing, it's always a hassle to have to bring both the soldering iron and heat gun especially for just one wire.
Does anyone know if I could hook my 3rd brake light up to my fifth wheel trailer plug that is in the bed already what about using rca jacks as your disconnect plugs
I normally encapsulate a ground terminal with silicone adhesive after the connection is made; I like to use the clear 'household' stuff that doesn't smell of acetic acid 'vinegar'. I place a dollop of silicone and spread it around a little to ensure the exposed terminal surface is well covered. I also place a drop of silicone adhesive into the connector before placing the wire into it and crimping. The crimping action ensures you have a metal to metal connection, so you don't have to worry about the silicone interfering with electrical conductivity.
What brand do you use? When I was training under my dad as a boy I was shown not to do that because silicone adhesives (at least back then) promoted some corrosion as they first cured. I'm not saying you're wrong. I'm asking for what type I should be using- I'd like to know.
@@briansmobile1 I use GE 100% waterproof - window/door/attic/ basement. It's the type that doesn't smell of vinegar (acetic acid); that's usually the automotive type, unless they've changed the formula. I've been using it for decades without any problems. I used it on my dirt bikes even before I had a drivers license and just kept using it on all my vehicles since then. Maybe it's the acetic acid type that promotes corrosion...dunno.
Instead of holding the wires with pliers try stripping the end of the wires a little farther back and and then make a loop on each and loop them together. Then apply your solder. Makes it very easy and low profile for for sliding your heat shrink over the joint.
The Chevy 2500 I'm currently putting up vids on, needs the same thing. This one's 4 wire. 2 for the brake light, and 2 for the compartment light (bed light). It uses a 4 wire trailer wiring harness set up and plugs.
Good morning Brian I'm trying to purchase a transmission for a 2008 Subaru Impreza 2.5i non turbo and I wanted to know what size transmission I would need for my car because there's two bolts and nine pin connector and then there's a three bolt 12 pin connector if you could help me with this I would greatly appreciate it I've tried calling the dealership I've called the mechanic but he can't put the car on the lift so I don't know what else to do figured I'd ask you Thanks for any help you can provide
Not sure what to tell you other than find a way or pay someone to do it. One other option is to use the VIN number and see if the dealership parts guy (bring him a drink or whatever he likes) could look it up for you.
Say I did a lineman splice or rabbit ear splice intended for long straight sections of wire and then soldered it. It would absolutely be stronger, and it would have a much better electron flow likely, but locate that on the rear end of a 4x4 truck and it's gonna chafe out of the insulation & could short to ground. This method allows for a lighter and shorter repair and allows more flexibility in the circuit. Constraints cause for different methods. I learned to do these "dreadful soldering" joints on electric speed controls & Lipo battery connections on RC helicopters. They did better than mechanically attached wires with solder over them and reduced failure rates that resulted in expensive power failure induced crashes.
