How Good is Built in Exhaust?|| DIY Router Lifter 2.1 

That's incorrect, as spiral bits can be both downcut and upcut. So, you want a downcut bit to pull chips towards the router.

@@bernardtarver except the router is inverted a down cut pushes chips away from the router regardless of the orientation. An upcut pulls chips towards router regardless of the routers orientation.

@@bernardtarver The router is upside down. The bit that you put into it will also be upside down. Upcut bits cut towards the router and downcut bits cut away from the router regardless the orientation of the router itself. OP is correct, you would want an upcut bit.

@@Guardian_Arias You're right; I meant upcut.

There are downward cutting bits which are actually upward cutting bits - you have to remember that normal router orientation is motor side up.

Can you explain that more? Are you including the gap the insert will be in the slicer for the supports?

No you don't need to tell the slicer anything, you just need to program a filament change which would stop the printer at the layer height you need then take the TPU insert you would've printed previously you would place it into the hole. then resume print. the TPU will act as another build surface basically.

@@boardinrider oh so instead of bridging you place the insert.. ok I think I get it. Any videos of this being done? I have a model I made that had a big 8 inch bridging area. It works for my purpose but I have it set up to do 6 layers of crisscrossing layers to eventually make it solid.

@@zombieno1 unfortunately I do not, but TPU works well with PETG and PLA, havent had much success with ABS.

Пластик гнётся, но куда без него теперь? Лить из чугуна, обратно в 19 век?

Thats why Im waiting until he is done with revisions lol

You should do a video showing either the build or giving your thoughts about the lift.

Hey Amazon, since you been printing the model, could you please tell me how tall the whole construction is? Best including the router in the measurement... id really like to Build it, but i need to know if it fits first :)

Ender 3 s1 pro going to be the most affordable out of the box printer without having to mod and mess with your printer. Or you can wait a littlr bit for the new bamboo 3d printer its more expensive but its so high tech you domt need to learn anything it does everything for you

@@Kenneth91619 i have a little money to spend on it. Maybe around $1000.

@@buffalojones341 I tentatively recommend the Bambu Labs X1-Carbon. Pre-release and Kickstarter backer reviews of it have been positive across the board, with some annoyances like noise and Bambu Labs' rather closed ecosystem of parts. If you want something super reliable, albeit slow compared to modern CoreXY printers, the Prusa MK3S+ is a solid bet, around $1000.

Second for the Prusa mk3s. I have had mine since it was a mk3, upgraded with new printable parts. Solid in every way, designed to be modded.

@@buffalojones341 Bambu wait for the Bambu its same price range as the prusa but is 100 times better and is an actual professional product. Prusa are like hobby level products and you still need to mess with it and mod it and learn a bunch of tedious stufd that will keep you from woodworking or prototyping. Dont listen to the modders unless you plan on using it to make a bunch of trinkets that dont serve any purpose besides enjoyment. Taking the time to fix a new machine to work like you intent it to by modding it will cost you more, give you headaches and keep you from your work flow. I only got into 3d printing to help me make my owm affordable prototypes for my business. I dont care to tinker with a new machine or mod it. I want and expect a new product to work perfect out of the box. The Bambu offers the closest thing to that without having to go and buy a industrial grade printer costs 7k or more. If you want to play 3d printing then listen to modders they know how to do it but if your a professional looking for a cost effective solution through 3d printing you dont want to me messing with these low grade printers that come messed up 90% of the time.

"Not as satisfying as I expected given the amount of work put into the 3D printing process." ??? 😳 How much work do you put into 3D printing process? After purchase, you will receive the parts in .stl files that you import into the slicer (this takes a few seconds). You set the parameters for the printer, insert the filament and start printing after a few minutes. Yes, printing takes some time, but you are not tied to the printer and you can do whatever you want while printing. So where do you see the large amount of work please? After all, the gentleman who offers it (doesn't force it!) has already done that for you. 😎

@@allimco419 i don't think my statement implied that I was gonna do it as well. While I was watching the video I've come to expectations but weren't fully met by the end of the video. I was just commenting on HIS problem, process and solution. as you can see he measured, modeled, printed, and repeated the process a few times and still didn't collect as much dust as wanted.

@@aaronalquiza9680 For one thing, you didn't indicate that you were commenting on HIS problem and that's why it sounded like a general problem. And then, that's a normal development after all. Try to understand that he invented it mainly for himself and did not have a team of professional technicians and designers around him. The fact that something doesn't work the first time is not only the domain of do-it-yourselfers, but often even professionals. The difference is that the home handyman thinks and fixes the mistake, or remodels it himself. If a professional team makes a mistake, it is usually only discovered when the product is on the market and those who already have it have to put up with it. If the team of professionals then corrects the error, the next customers who buy it will pay for it. And then there is one more factor - someone enjoys it and does it with love because it fulfills him and brings him satisfaction. Unfortunately, many critics cannot understand this, but they are very good at criticizing and mentoring the work of others 🙂

@@allimco419 you assumed i was talking about end users. you started asking about MY process and explaining how an end user has it easy because all they have to do is buy and print the files that others spent time doing. you thought i was commenting about a general problem with R&D, but now say that this project is FOR HIM. Doesn't that agree with my comment that i was referring to HIS experience and not mine or in general? i'm offering a criticism and asked a question. shopvac vs dust collector? because this CAN INCREASE the suction even if the 3D printed adapter is not perfectly modeled. ive failed a few times in designing my dust collection, and learned the hard way that static pressure was more important than air volume for a router table setup.

Thank you! The new design will have ability to detach the top plate and print the main bottom mechanism separately, then attach it to any material or size top plate or directly to the table top, this will allow it to print on much smaller printers

@@ussadesign thanks so much for your answer, this sounds great! But I phrased it poorly. My printer is is fine, the table I use for the router is limited to ~120mm in one axis (I use one of these adjustable workbenches and are limited by the opening, I live in a small appartement and can't use a proper table). I'm still intrigued by the dust collection and think about buying it anyway :)

New model is going to have much better exhaust system, and about a week ot two after publishing router lifter, I will publish a table design for it, build from dowels, top surface and 3d printed joints, this router lifter is basically for this exact purpose-for small workshops limited in space, check my instagram I might publish pictures of the new model today

@@ussadesign ha, followed :) I'm not sure the design can be slimmed down enough to fit the space, but I'd be happy to be wrong here. Will this be a separate, new design or an "update" for this one (like v1 to v2.1)?

its going to be an update

are you talking about the drilling jig? or the router lift itself? Because I don't think I've ever seen an all metal router lift for $20

3d printing in Petg or PC can be better then metal counter parts because they can take mor3 abuse without deforming and can take a good amount of heat tolerance. A PC hook can hold up 987lbs for reference

@@Kenneth91619 Yeah, the problem is USSA printed it in PLA. PLA is really the wrong material for anything that needs impact resistance, heat resistance, or 'toughness'. CF-Nylon or CF-PC would both be great choices for this application.

@@theglowcloud2215 100% agree with you. Not to mention the joy and good feel of making your own tools and parts verse buying chinese goods. I can tell he enjoys the challenge that comes with designing these parts.

@@theglowcloud2215 But nothing and no one prevents you from printing the parts from PETG or from another filament that you think will be better for this use 🙂