.....can we all just take a moment to appreciate the fact that those flies didnt carry Johnno away & eat him.......m8...what a Magnificent Pano...you certainly raise the bar.
I’ve watched many videos on tracked panoramas, but yours have been the most informative, addressing the numerous not so obvious details that make the difference between success and failure. Thanks!
'undoing the clutch and re-leveling after every second shot' is what i needed to know. Your videos are so informative and can't wait to go out and try something new after watching every one. Thanks man. very much appreciated... now i need some darker nights and clear skies 🤪 👌
I was sure I knew something about panos, but man, my head started to hurt :D so much new knowledge in 9minutes. And it goes without saying the image is just fantastic, like always!
Its amazing to see the commitment you put into each pano! The amount of planning and steps involved in shooting is crazy. But that's why your images are incredible! Those flies though, I would be losing my shit
Cheers man, it's not everyone's cup of tea but how I go about it works for me. Oh and I was losing my shit at the bloody flies, I might have to do an out takes video 🤣
It seems to me that when shooting the sky frames of the panorama one would want to do so rotating the camera about the “horizontal” and “vertical” axes with respect to the sky (celestial) frame of reference. This is what the polar aligned mount achieves, compensating for the earth’s rotation. Frequent “re-leveling” introduces undesirable field rotation between frames of the sky component of the panorama. The shooting procedure becomes simpler too, with only advancement along each row with incremental rotation about the “vertical” axis, and advancement to the next row by incremental rotation about the “horizontal” axis. It can all be done by the numbers given the desired angle between rows and angle between frames in a row. Meanwhile the mount is left to continue doing its job undisturbed. When the landscape row is shot the mount is stopped, returned to counterweight down position and the landscape row is shot rotating about the vertical axis with respect to the earth frame of reference. The landscape and sky are stitched separately, then combined. The sky will require some rotation in the process. That’s the theory. I will have to wait for spring storms to cease and our sky to clear to test theory against practice and will no doubt come away older, wiser, and humbled.
There are many ways to skin cats, I do it the way I do cos it works for me and it's what I have found the easiest over hundreds of tracked panos. You arr correct about frame rotation but stitching software has no issues with this. I look forward too see what you come up with.
I will try your foreground technique of shooting two rows high. Never thought of that, but it makes sense. The angle of the shot gives the building a natural 3d look like the viewer is on location. The colors and air glow are superb. These are the colors you see when you are truly in a dark sky area. I have only seen the Milky Way like that in Great Basin National Park Nevada. Also, thats a great freakin piece of art.
Yeah definitely dark skies. The foreground size is totally dependent on how many rows the sky is, if I shot a sky that is only 1 row, for instance with a 20mm lens then you could get away with one row for foreground, but when the sky is multiple rows, to keep the ratio looking right the foreground needs to be multiple rows too.
@@johnrutterphotography thanks for reply, i use the SA mini and there for i am limited with the weight. I still figure out if its better to use 2 Ballheads or the V+Z-Mount
Hi John, great video. I just discovered your channel, your milky way photos are bang on some of the best I've come across! I started Astrophotography with DSOs over the past 1.5 or so. Just now starting my own Milky Way journey. I picked up a Sony 14mm f1.8 for Astro + Landscapes. I'd love to get your advice on ideal exposure length, the lens is crazy fast. Also, maybe a video suggestion for us newbies as well on how to find focus on the wide lenses (I've tried both infinity and batinov type masks) and how to blend foreground shots with sky shots. Keep them coming!
Thanks Ted, optimal exposure totally depends on location, sky quality, how your imaging eg. Tracking. So I can't give you an answer on that. Thanks for the suggestions, I do have a video on how to blend and edit already on my channel that might help you out.
Another epic image John! I think you've mentioned it before but what Pano rotator and Pano height adjuster are you using? And this was shot at 35mm with the samyang 35mm?
i guess it was a positional choice having the core in the middle of the picture , as to why you didn't go vertical like the last pano ? and your computer must have had fits over the amount of megapixels it had to deal with. Again awesome pano mate .
Yes it was a composition choice to shoot with the core in the middle, as for why I didn't shoot vertical rows.... I only did that for my last image to "kill" time in the western sky while the core rose in the east. And by the time I had worked all the way around the core had risen, this image I wanted the core to be as high as possible so I had to shoot from the top down to give it time to be as high as possible when I locked it into the horizon. It's a very hard thing to explain in a msg.
Thanks for sharing you technic its very helpful and great final image. When shooting the top rows do you take extra shots on the sides to allow for the high angle or is each row the same number of shots?
My pleasure mate 👍, how many images I take for a top row does depend on how high I shoot, so at the moment with the core very high I do take a couple of extras just to make sure I've covered everything, but if the arch isn't so high I don't bother
Thanks mate, I have never taken parallax into account for any image, and so far I've had no issues with stitching or any artefacts 🤞 but if I ever do il modify the setup to fix that.
I missed to watch this video earlier. This is very helpful indeed. The very first video you did in the studio did not really make me understand but this one is bang on 👍👍👍 Are you able to disclose which ball head model and which tilt head model are you using? Thanks
Moving from a gimbal head to a star-tracker has been a bit of a challange, so thanks for sharing your techniques. For now I'm just looking to shoot with 30mm Vertical in a single row pano, but would like to go with 2min x3 stacked images. I'm guessing that I should be ok capturing the 3 images, releveling, rotating and doing again until the pano is complete. Thoughts?
This is Anupam Naskar... Your planning and technique is fantastic.. I m doing milkyway photography from last 2 years... Just a quorisity.. Is Tracker really needed / helpful for milky Pano ?
Thank you so much for the video. Can you suggest a link for the indexing panoramma head please? Aslo you have another video that talks about using a z bracket with a star tracker. Which would be your preferred setup and why?
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ig5nd5pxLiE.html that's a video where I go through my setup and all the links are in the description for the stuff I use, I was using the z bracket but found the knobs a bit fiddley in the dark so now I use a ball head to get my level base
@@johnrutterphotography thanks John mate, I just traded the 14mm for a 50mm and 24mm and feel its time to progress into mosaics/panos. Might have a couple more questions for you yet! Great videos you have on here really helpful
Amazing videos. That would be nice to add the shots of that sky we could look at them while you explain the process. if I understood the process when you re-level the mount the camera should not be on vertical anymore to match the previous shot in order to keep the lateral of the frame parallel to the previous shot.
In a previous video on my channel about how I shoot tracked panoramas, I show the sky image, and show how the re level causes steps in the image. Hope that video answers your question
@@johnrutterphotography thank you. I saw it. I refered to the ones used at this video since we would be watching you at the sametime looking at the shots. Why do not keep not re-leveling it? Would not it keep the framing consitent along the panorama shooting?
So if you're re leveling every two images you were shooting at three minutes? Or re set level after 6 minutes depending on what exposure time you choose
I was shooting 3 minute exposures, so I had to choose between re levelling after every shot or every second shot, if I was shooting 2.5 minutes exposures I'd still re level after 2 shots,or if I shot 1 minutes exposures id then just choose something in between, say every 4, there is no exact time that's best but I wouldn't push it past 6 minutes normally
You changed from the Z brackets to a new set up. Were you frustrated by their sagging? And now you are using the trackers gear lock for releveling. This seems reasonable to me.
I didn't have any issues with sagging, it was more so the small knobs on them were hard to use in the dark, maybe their version 2 that's coming will fix that issue
