Really cool guys. There's so much to be learned from your vids. Some folks see it as all laughs and silliness, but I leave each video having learned something usually.
ur diff pin got loose because normally that pin doesnt spin, it does a little bit when u go around turns n stuff but 99% of the time its stationary, the situation u created was very unique, because it was only that one wheel spinning the spider gears pin was also spinning steady eating away at the side it was turning against
i boke mine it was a dana 70 from a 1993 dodge w250 i had no oil in there for god knows how long since then i have fixed it with a brand new diff and axel, got very lucky to find one the very next day (victoria bc canada ) huge fan !
If stopping one wheel makes the other rotate twice as fast does that mean that in theory you could block the diff on one side while still allowing that wheel to spin (essentially making a one-wheel drive car) and double the top speed of the car? I think that would be an interesting experiment by itself.
I broke a diff in my discovery at an off road event. It punched a hole in the rear diff pan. I replaced the diff but couldn't repair the pan. I covered the new diff in grease and it lasted me a day and a half of abuse, plus a drive home at 60mph
Yeah. Funny, but also very risky. When you are in top gear and top revs the centrifugal force can rip the tire apart. The acceleration (and the force on the tire) is proportional to the speed squared. Running at 160 km/h the tire speed is 320 km/h and the centrifugal forces acting on it are 4 times as high. This may just rip the tire apart. Not pleasant when you stand behind it...
Two hours, we’re gonna have to send our famous one legged kanook., peg, from “zip ties and bias ply’s “ , and for insurance maybe whistling diesel, that rear end would die in 5 minutes flat..
*foot to the floor for hours* > wow this differential is really worn out *surprise pikachu face* Yeah I don’t think that differential was designed to go 200 mph for hours on end lmao. I’d be surprised if that car can do 100 mph on the highway.
I had a gm 10 bolt that I took the cover off because the locker wasn't working anymore and it was old and I had a 14 bolt corporate I was gonna put in but it still worked so I drove it with the cover off around town most of the day then got on highway and drove to the next town at highway speeds like 15 miles away and back. I stoped and looked at it and it was smoking but still working 🤔 so I drove it some more not trying to veer to far from home finally about 10 o'clock that night I had to go to bed for work the next day and it was still working when I finally swapped it out.
Interesting that they said wheelspin kills diffs in no time, then proceeded to wheelspin at 100 MPH for hours in a single go before they had a real problem. I think the biggest takeaway here is that oil is important. I really like the 'till absolute destruction format of these videos.
normally your not trying to kill your diff so that is why it happens in no time for normal people when you try to make it happen it takes forever man🤣🤣🤣
@@polski_mamut yes once it stopped it cooled and harder essentially fusing them together. But when it was glowing red the metal was hot and soft it would continue until it goes out. But once its stopped its done
In Russia, you don't service the car until something ejects... Then you just replace the parts that are essential for going forward... Everything is so cheap, because people wreck their cars so often that junk yards are full of usable spare parts.
“well you see, that is what destroys the internals, things overheat, increases friction, and it chews itself to bits. why don’t we try imitating that scenario!”
Sometimes it's people trying to race... Get the RPM high and then drop it in gear. Metal hates hard fast hits. The more you do it, the bigger the play becomes that leads to harder hits.
Just don't do diff oil changes is enough, condensation brings water mixed with steel shrapnel's and honey like dried up old oil will burn any gearbox fast
Guys, the job you do with translating is great - it's just that sometimes I think a translator with proper russian accent would make it even greater xD
We discussed the idea with the guys, they weren't very fond of it. And I see where they're coming from: my baseline accent is sort of average American, and my attempts to simulate a Russian accent very well might've come off as super cheesy and fake. I've heard a bunch of genuine Russian accents in my years living in Russia, they are super cool, they're not what Hollywood films make them out to be, and they're very tough to emulate.
And now you know when you're doing a 1 wheel peel that the tire is spinning about 2x what the speedometer is reading 😬 Reminded me of that vid on here with a red 3rd gen camaro and when the tire blew it took out the whole quarter and back glass.
With no lubricant, it will not last very long. Metal on metal. Not good. Most folks never change the diff lube. Overtime condensation adds water to the lubricant n causes rust n breakdown of the lubricant's viscosity. By the time you notice funny noises, damage has occurred. To be safe, it should be changed every five years or so. The cost of lube is waay cheaper than the cost of a new differential. But then again, I regress. To most people, automobiles are disposable ... 😳
I'm glad it takes a chain of really stupid things to result in the diff getting destroyed that way. Having no oil in it is a mistake that can happen to anyone, but trying to get a car unstuck by just running it full throttle for a few hours is inexcusably stupid, no need to worry about that happening by accident! LOL
I have a Land Cruiser 100 Series. Last year water leaked into my rear diff and it started to whine and vibrate, today 1 year after that it still hasn’t died. But it whines terribly of course.
Even a open diff can spin both tires for a short bit at least. Those spider gears put so much pressure on the side gears it’s easier to turn the axle than spin the spider gears. Usually only banging gears or a quick shock load. This can also cause catastrophic failure
Why do you almost always use Suitcase Ladas (Yes, I know THIS car ain't one) in the experiments? Is that the only cheap, disposable car over there? I want to see a Trabant.
You would be surprised a lot if I tell you how cheap a Lada could be in Russia. A lot of them are sold for less than a grand. If it's meant to be scrapped it could worth less than $200.
First the spir gears and the shaft that they ride on heated up. This cause the shaft to expand and lock to the spir gears. Once the spir gears were locked to the shaft, they started spinning the shaft like a smooth version a router bit. The spinning shaft then started grinding away the steel from the diff case ( which is what caused all of that play ). You can see @11:28 that the tip of that spinning shaft gets so hot from friction that it glows bright orange.
I wonder if the diff would explode if you were to load the trunk with a lot of weight and get it up to top speed while the rear end was suspended in the air and than let it drop to dry ground
9:57 Normally (when the right and left wheel spin at the same speed) those gears don't spin. They are just not designed to be used very much. Only when you go around a corner or so.
I feel like that clear case and the chill from the weather/snow has helped it extend its life compared to 32.2°C here in Central Wisconsin with 100% humidity I don't forsee it running as long as in this scenario. However this was a interesting demonstration.
Doing a long 1 wheel burnout will do the same thing. It puts an incredible amount of stress on the spider gears and their shafts. Some diffs can take it for more than others, but it's harsh. Seen a few blow up like that, luckily not my cars!
It's probably too much to ask, but a little text box that converts metric units into the budweisers per bald eagle system showing up when any measurements are shown would be a great help for us across the waters. I have no idea how warm or cold centigrade measurements are.
I had a diff where that pin came loose ( bolt holding it broke) and it moved back and forth hitting the pinion gear and that caused the bolt holding it to loosen! Pin was bent so I couldn't remove to fix/rebuild. So I welded it in place and tightened everything fresh fluids and that was 4 months ago. No issues yet! Bought a new one (entire axel assembly) still haven't had to put it in!!
I'm glad the Ladas are as disposible there in beaitiful/freezing Russia as aquiring a soda from a soda despener! Bless garage54d for disclosing this to us laymen! Much love/ respect Your friend/fan from Texas,USA!! 💙 🇷🇺🇺🇸
0:20 - I've always considered this fact (about the free-to-spin wheel doubling in speed) a _kind of_ traction control, in and of itself. We all know that doubling the speed via gearing will give us twice the speed, but at half the torque. So in essence, when a wheel begins to lose traction and spin faster than the other, its torque is reduced by 50% - Now it's less likely to spin...
No, the torque is equal at both wheels. If one wheel loses contact, then no torque will be delivered to the other. That's why braking the freely spinning wheel (eg. traction control) allows the contact wheel to generate torque.
@@dickJohnsonpeter Yes, serious as a heart attack. A heavy right foot and big tires on a truck will roast the spider gears onto that center shaft and make things come apart in ways they weren't intended to.
UMMMM, how did you drain the oil from an diff with no oil??? You've made it a worse case by fixing one wheel and running the other, as the spiders are just flying in there, much more so if it is a positive traction or so called limited slip rear end (slip clutched across the spiders). You would never encounter this in normal driving, unless stuck, and typically you don't sit there and spin them for minutes in that situation. You've lowered the loading considerably by not driving the car forward on it. Given both differences I expect the differential would probably last longer in your test than real driving, unless it is the spiders that fail first (written before I saw they did). Always funny, always entertaining. If there's ANYTHING reliable on that car it would shock me, frankly. Reliable is my TL, 311k, no major work except a tranny rebuild at 300k. Not much minor work, either, just about four fairly minor things (starter, alternator, AC clutch, a couple of motor mounts, and very recently upper end intake gaskets). THAT is what reliable means. Please tell me you weren't standing directly behind that thing while you were doing this. Now it's an NSD, no slip differential. LOL. You really need to go look up planetary gear, because you keep calling everything that isn't one, one. THIS is a planetary gear, it has a sun gear, planetary gears, and a ring gear, and you get multiple speeds and directions out of it by driving one of the three, holding another one (or the planetary gear rotation itself) still (or one at varying speeds like in a EV) and taking drive off the third, you can even get reverse holding the planetaries stationary and allowing them to rotate, locked planetary gears (non rotating) give 1:1): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4HPtIXlno3w.html
I love these guys, but I would legit be afraid to bring my car to them for routine repair/maintenance (I assume that's part of their business). No telling what kind of pranks they'd play.
Let's see what happens when you get it up to 3rd gear and knock it off the jack stands. 160Kph is around 100mph. Imagine taking your car to these guys to get it worked on and while your waiting you see your car in one of their videos LOL.
I'm guessing you guys are from Russia or from Ukraine one of the two. My question for you seeing that you are not a mechanic from the West so you have probably never worked on any of these pickup trucks before American pickup trucks call the GMC Sierra two-wheel drive with the 5.3 l V8 cranks out 285 horsepower and 345 lb of torque my question for you is how many miles can a rear differential last without rear diff fluid in there before it starts to do damage?
My rear diff on my stang is shot :( apparently the pinion seal leaking caused all the oil to leak out. My mechanice replaced the seal no more than 2 weeks ago. I took it to him a week later for a post repair check up and there were no leaks. I Used a duralast seal, never buying anything other than OEM ever again.) My car was making a horrible grinding sound when decelerating. The problem is one day the noise wasn’t there at all and the next day it was grinding super loud. What’s more is there were no puddles under my car in my driveway. So how can you tell if you have a pinion seal leak if there are no drops under your car and no noise until it’s too late?
