How strong is your lure through wire 

Your right about annealed wire it tends to lose anywhere from 10% to 40% of the strength compared to hardened or even slightly cold worked steel. What we were actually checking was how well the coils hold and what we found is that being able to form tight coils was the key (I did not know that going in). I'll be testing welding wire (slightly annealed) to see if there is an optimum wire for through wire designs...and I'll share the results.

Thank you! Cheers!

Great to hear!

I'm really curious too...I even ordered a haywire twist tool to make the test more legit....stay tuned.

No kidding, big price break. And you can find slightly heavier gauge that'll get you up your 200 lb dot-dot-dot if you need it. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment

Thank you. ..and thanks for sharing what you like to use. ..ill be expanding my tests to include some different wire soon.

Gracias, estoy feliz que te haya gustado.

That sounds like a thoroughly designed system. You really have to go the extra steps to protect against those giants you guys fish for. Yes it sounds like the soft wire you use is annealed stainless. Thanks for sharing. Cheers.

I'm looking into doing those kinds of tests on heavier wire. Since I don't really build lures with such heavy Hardware I don't have it in my normal shop inventory. I'm going to have to look around to see if I can find some. But stick around there's going to be more materials testing. And thank you for your coming.

Wow! That's around 500 lb strength wire....what kind of line are you using. Seems like a bit overkill but I'm not a tuna angler...

Engineered Angler So typically I’ll run Jerry Brown 100lb hollow core with a 130lb wind on leader for Cape Cod BFT fishing.....2.4mm is overkill for sure (and a complete pain in the ass to work with) but because modern spinning gear has become extremely powerful (Reels putting out 66lbs of drag, extremely powerful rods etc.) guys are now targeting tuna over 300lbs. Not only that, but the main reason I switched to the 2.4mm was the guys that are fishing for Giant Trevally and Dogtooth tuna. They’re using 140lb main line with up to 300lb specialized momoi Xhard mono leaders made for 1000lb billfish due to the terrain in which they fish and the style of which they MUST fish if they want to land these 100+ pound GTs....and that’s 40+ pounds of drag from the start to stop them from breaking you off. I’ve seen 1.6, and even 2 mm wire get completely pretzeled and ripped to shreds, 400lb split rings opened, the biggest & baddest hooks mutilated etc. If you want to truly see overkill check out this link below. These are Siren lures made by Jason Ward, a friend of mine, and they’ve got what is probably the most sophisticated, and ridiculously heavy duty wire harnesses on the market. His lures have landed some of the baddest fish on the planet and I’ve never seen one even close to showing any signs of failure. facebook.com/SirenLures/photos/a.191636317598118/1186302758131464/?type=3

@@DanEvan Thank looks amazing ...you guys are fishing in a different universe. Pairing running rigging with terminal tackle is a matter of experience and instinct. I take my hat of to-ya.

Thanks for watching and for the encouragement

A knot can really reduce the strength.

Funny you bring up the haywire twist. It was the first thing I thought of when I saw the results. Honestly makes me want to call BS on the need for the Haywire Twist before the barrel twist. This calls for more testing

@@EngineeredAngler yeah I'd like to see if the haywire twist make the stainless leader loop hold better and increases the unraveling strength.........sounds like a future video in the works.. :-)

Glad it was helpful! I don't have an online source for the wire since I buy it locally.

Actually the fix for the 174 lb leader is very simple, just add what it was missing (friction) by saturating the coils with with super glue. This nearly doubles the strength. It's a bit tricky to solder, especially silver solder, because the heat tends to anneal the wire, making it too soft. Thank you for your words of encouragement. I have to approach these subjects in ways that won't alienate folks and will seem worth the trouble. So there are definitely some over simplifications of complex topics but, in the end, it has to be fun to do...cheers.

Yes, that's exactly what I think is happening.

That kind of wire is usually too easy to bend and if you want nice straight sections in your wire, you probably wont get it. But if you're just making twist eyes and internal wire, the wire you have will work fine.

Like most everything an improvement in one direction often means a compromise in another. Annealing the wire end will certainly mean you'll have higher friction on your Barrel wraps. But you compromise stiffness of the wire and that means you're relying only on friction and the wire wraps will more readily come out. I prefer to wrap the wire and add a little glue. Of course, it doesn't hurt to give it a shot, you might come up with just the right combination.

I don't think through wire is needed in most lures.

I always mention the size of the wires I'm using for my lures. The size of the wire that you should use is going to depend on the size of the lure and the fish you're after. But a common size that is plenty strong and easy to work is 0.030 inch diameter stainless.

Here you go...ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ReNvnSB7vMk.html

You should check out the play lists

Oops, cool!

Materials failure is an interesting topic and one that I have had a lot of experience studying. It's easy to misunderstand what causes the heat during the failure of a metal. The heat generated during material failure is caused by friction and friction heat needs movement. The movement cannot occur until the wire fails so the heat comes after The Wire fails and therefore can't cause or add to the failure.

Not really.

@@EngineeredAngler - You're the one there, so you'd know. :)

Most stainless steel welding wire is 316 that means it's about 70,000 to 75000 psi strength so if you want to know how strong your wire is, you just have to calculate the end area of your Wire by multiplying pi times the radius squared. Then just multiply that times 70000. But remember from the video that you're only going to get about half that strength with Barrel coil eyes. Thanks for watching

Engineered Angler interesting. I don’t know much about how the wire is constructed. The one I use is .062” 308. Not sure what the 308 means. The way I tend to make lures puts the turns in the wood with epoxy. Not to worried about strength. Just curious! Thanks.

@@TrevorF03 The 308 stainless will get you a little higher strength (75 to 80 Ksi) but I would use 75 to be conservative. If its welding wire it is lightly cold worked that means it will fall somewhere in between the two type wires I used in the video. So actually your wire tensile strength is somewhere around 225 lb. That means that you can probably count on about 120lb of holding strength with barrel wrap eyes.

If the twists were haywire style your idea would , at the very least, increase the friction and the load to overcome it would go up a bit. But, since the problem with this type of coil winding is that it doesn't really pinch tight against the main wire, sanding would probably not make a difference. Good thinking though!

Well, the stress / strain and ultimate strength of steel wire actually gets pretty complex. There's a phenomenon called strain hardening where the steel actually gets stronger from being pulled hard enough to stretch a bit. Here what is most influencing the strength of the through wire is how much friction the barrel wraps can produce against the standing wire. Thank you for watching and for your input.

@@EngineeredAngler thanks for sharing knowledge. I find it helpful because I'm starting make my own lures. Maybe,someday, I'll make some video...

It depends on how you plan to use it. ..galv. wire is usually annealed and that means it bends a little too easily, so if it needs to stay straight you might have a problem. Otherwise it's very strong and easy to work with.

Not a bad idea but making a good solder joint is a bit harder than twisting wire.

@@EngineeredAngler Maybe it's just because I've resorted to soldering things so much that it seems second nature to me. it's a marvelous way to join things

Sure, I'll check them and put the measurements in the description.

TwistTech

Yeah...if the barrel wraps are glued inside the lure it has plenty of strength.

True...different failure modes make it very difficult to predict max failure load. So a wire that has a lower tensile strength but fails through rupture might be better than a much stronger wire that fails through deformation.

@@EngineeredAngler yes... or exactly the opposite in the case you studied. the deformation case is difficult to stop i guess. (is twisting stronger than coiing?) The pinch case might be made stronger using an insert under the coils?

79kg... 0.73mm dia

I guess I didn't mention that the annealed steel wire is Galvanized ... Works pretty well even in saltwater.

I use 308 L stainless. Probably overkill but thats how i like to make my baits over kill.

I have tried it...the resulting bond is super strong but the heat needed to do it ruins the temper on the wire.

@@EngineeredAngler, I was wondering about that. I wish I had you as a teacher back in the day. My grades would have gone from C+ to A+. You do nice work.

Well...the shop is pretty well organized but, actually lots of clutter until I clean up for the video. But you're right I am a bit scatter brained when it comes to detailing what I use and where I get it from. I source all my stuff on the internet, no secretes on Amazon and Ebay... Thanks for watching and I'll try to do better.