How-To #3: Fully Turn Off Traction Control! 2006-2010 DODGE CHARGER All Models 

Same

Nah fr tho what fuse bruh I gotta know!

The ABS (Anti-lock Brake System) is connected to Traction Control? Seems almost like you're trolling. That just sounds unsafe haha

my abs is completely out 🤷🏼‍♀️ so lmk ! as in completely out i mean it doesn’t work and i have to replace it

Don’t do that bruh

Haha yeah this opened up a whole new world!

Is there a difference between turning the key and holding the ESP button down? Or is it doing the same thing?

Im having issues with my 06 Daytona then because I tried this it did nothing do you need a tune or something?

@@EverythingwithWheels same it didn’t work did you find out how?

@@josephgatling4739 yes I did I had to cut a wire for all of the traction to turn off 100 %

@@josephgatling4739 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cXl6I3x7dQ4.html the way I did it

You damn lie

Wish this worked on mine :(. Have the 3.5 though, and the 15 mph trick works just fine. Would be nice to not have to circle around like a dork before doing the most pathetic burn out ever

GTA 5 pc story mode modded game play so ummmmmyeah Let’s just point out the obvious. U-joints are always going to be a weak link. Take any u-joint with a little bit of “axle” on either end and spin the axle and all is good. Start articulating the axles, and resistance starts to build up. That’s because any deviation from on-axis is basically “forcing” a quadruple hinged joint to follow paths they might not prefer, even if extremely briefly, this off axis torsional force is just begging for parts failure. And it’s not always so easy to just “use heavier duty parts” and call it a day. For one there is rarely space allotted for bigger parts, so obviously we’re going for stronger metals, but at the same time the less malleable the material, the more friction will be generated, and while there are some interesting variations on u-joints, picture it like this: you have a solid rod of steel being driven with torsional force. You cut that rod 1/3 through on one side. Continue to twist. Soon enough that cut will be the weak part where the gap opens up and the rod kinks at the cut. Any twisting rod is fundamentally trying to twist itself apart. Newton’s Third Law-equal and opposite force. Hold one end of a straw and twist the other. Collapses. Now bend it a hair and do that. Collapses more easily. Now take a sphere with four pins sticking out on the same plane and have two yolks each with it’s two forks housing the tips of two of those pins, and the second yolk/pin 90 degrees off. It’s going to be a weak point. So my Dodge Magnum RT has been pulling just u see max trailer weight for 13 years. 2800 lbs. probably 80,000 of it’s 164,000 miles have been pulling that trailer. To prevent tail wagging, the tongue weight needs to be about 250-300lbs. That makes for a drag ass condition in the Magnum. This also drastically changes the geometry of the rear half-shafts and suspension. They are articulating more than they were designed to for a long period of time, much less excessive force for any length of time. Another way to think about it is, if you had a u-joint driven axle approaching 50-90 degrees of articulation, at some point it just wants to SWING the axle, not spin it. So my diff lasted about 145,000 miles like that. I never jabbed the throttle right off the line, to save the drivetrain, BUT, if you were in any kind of slippery road and the car was hitting hard and you lay into the throttle progressively and fully, it would often spin the tires. So I nursed it, but not. Here’s part of the point. I had been complaint about suspension stuff for 13yrs. But I noticed more “compliance” in the back end. Seemed like maybe shocks could be replaced but I had the dealership inspect them (I have a Lifetime Bumper to Bumper Warranty) and they said they were fine. But sometimes, especially wet pavement, if you strayed to spin the tires often times they would hop, and violently enough that it was a startling shock through the rear of the car. Not long after that started happening the diff sounded like it chipped a tooth. Then a couple of weeks later it gave up. That is why they aren’t everywhere. They are a weak link in high torque applications. But independent rear suspension is superior in every other aspect besides the need to align. But even a solid rear axle can be knocked out of thrust angle square. Those U bolts on the leaf springs aren’t welded in. Also a solid axle is inferior in ride quality because the movement of one end causes changes on the other end. A quick move upwards from a bump causes the other end to drop slightly. Camber adjustments aren’t there to be had. But no doubt strong. Just notice that Ford went IRS in their trucks years ago, and do you think they would risk being the worlds best selling truck with such a huge change? Not hardly . Solid axles are only stronger. IRS are superior in every other way. Also my story was about how all signs pointed to a short drivetrain life, and the only reason there grew to be a problem was because the rear cradle was too “compliant” and also prematurely, and allowed the problem to happen. While it was in for repair, I read that wheel hop and IRS don’t last long together. It had been wheelhopping just about 1 month before it failed. Proof that wheelhop is bad, and that solid rear axles are stronger, yet if everything had been taken into account, even my diff would probably still be fine. The Mopar mounting style you mentioned also made for a much rougher ride, and it was more about figuring out where along the leaf of the spring would it not flex enough to snap release into wheel spin or hop. To far back and it starts to wind up and when it reaches too far, it snaps back into shape and allows wheelspin. Too far forward and the leverage effect dwindles and the weight isn’t shifted enough and wheelspin The old Mopars handled well also because of torsion bars. Sorry went off. Solid axles are archaic and crude and should t be used on anything but a work implement. IRS is better ride comfort, better handling, just better. So that’s why

@@andrewhigdon8346 a fine, forensic analysis. however, I've owned many solid axle cars..of the mid and full sizes vintage mopar variety. the ride: amazing. the launch: exellent. the cornering and lack of brake dive..wonderful. they're the exception, ofc..bc they're exceptional. & w.e breaks first, wheel hop is bad..bad for a quick launch, bad for suspension, drive train..hardly inspires confidence and therefore..sucks. lol. ofc now after some yrs of dealing with the problem, the mopar folks have largely done away with wheel hop, at least in the performance SRT cars..the Demon, for example had been tested to the tune of 5,000 launches, back to back..no breakage, no over heating between runs (off topic, woops). anyways, if i could get a challenger with torsion bars up front and a solid axle w/leaf springs rear, as long as geometry/metallurgy were as good as 50 yrs ago, it's the one id get. another exception: Viper. i never noted them to have issues with wheel hop. wish they'd of simply used a slightly modded version of that suspension in the big new cars.

GTA 5 pc story mode modded game play yeah man the Mopar setup was always know to be superior. Torsion bars up front helped a lot. My long winded but unclear point was, solid axles can handle more abuse, IRS rides and handles better. Plus less unstrung weight. But very complex, requires 4 wheel alignment, always a reliability concern. Forgot to tell you I lost count of how many rear driveshaft to pinion yoke bolts. There’s a weak spot. And my left rear spindle broke and I couldn’t tell what was wrong at first, just that it scarped if I turned left at all and was fine when turning right. Hmmm Also had weird sensation that the caliper was holding the wheel upright. Turns out they replaced both sides with steel pieces instead of the original aluminum ones. That tells us something. To back up your point, Ford took forever to go to IRS in the Expedition, Explorer, then the Mustang. They didn’t want broken parts. The only reason Chrysler got IRS on the LX cars is because it was already R&Ded to satisfaction thanks to Mercedes and the whole rear cradle is a steel version of the S Class, so it was supposed to be already sorted. Well done fellow hot rodder. .🤘🤘🤘

@@andrewhigdon8346 Heya. yeah, I get what you're saying about IRS vs solid. i was just pointing out the big Chrysler corp cars, the C bodies had such long leaf springs, ride quality was quite nice. thnx for the long messages, im one of the rare guys on YT that actually will both write and read them, lol..most folks just want to post or read a one sentence comment..soundbite

Sorry bro, but this is partly BS. ON ALL American V8 cars, looking for the he front to the back, the engine is turning counter clockwise, and if you imagine no chassis at all over a solid rear axle, the right rear tire,( passenger rear) would flip around while the driver side rear tire would try to press into the ground. For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. If the rear end were suspended the rear axle would just twirl. Add suspension components to “locate” the rear axle and some stability is added. Add the body to the chassis and you add lots of stability. Regardless, the rear wheels, even on an IRS, are trying to swap sides constantly under acceleration, and from driving position, right rear want to rise, left rear wants to press down. That’s why on an open diff the right rear will always smoke before the left rear, unless the left rear is oiled or when taking a hard left turn. With IRS the effect isn’t as dramatic, as it’s the diff itself trying to flip, since the axles are connected via u-joints or CV joints, so they don’t have the sideways leverage of a solid rear axle. Which is a god thing for stability. As far as suspension set up, it depends on what you want. If you want to save money and apply 1500 ft/lbs to the axle, stick with a solid rear axle and ultra heavy duty diff. If you want a great ride and better stability, use an Independent Rear Suspension. As far as the claims about leaf springs versus coil springs, note that the Chevelle platform used coil springs with trailing arm, and I believe it was a 5- link setup. That set up will ALWAYS be superior for traction compared to a leaf spring suspension. Moving the axle farther forward on the leaves was for one reason and one reason only, which solved one problem but made another. Remember traction bars, or snubbers? What did they do? Remember how they would have a little rubber tip near the end of the traction bar with an adjustable thread under the tip? That was to adjust snubber distance from the leaf springs. The whole idea was to stiffen the leaf spring, indeed also done with adding stiffer leaves to the pack. Another way was to make them “shorter” in the front, but really they just moved the axle forward on the leaves. So the problem with leaf springs is that they “wind up”, which really is a misnomer, but the whole leaf pack flexes into an S shape. From the axle forward, the leaf arches upwards, and from the axle back it arches downward. When so much torque is applied that the leaves cannot hold any longer, they snap back to straight(ish), thus losing traction long enough to allow wheel spin to begin. Wheel hop is caused by almost too much traction, just like pushing your eraser head across the desk, eraser forward of the other end. That skipping is a linear version of the same thing. And is created by flexing and releasing of the leaf spring. IRS systems can do this also, but usually when bushing are getting worn out and compliance is allowed throughout the system. With leaf springs, the power was usually enough and the leaves soft enough that they never really wound up and the tires simply spun with very little grip, as they were trying to lift off the ground anyway. Notice in the movie Bullit, when he misses the turn, stops, and backs up really hard, his left rear tire lights up, but. Is also bouncing. In reverse, your left rear tire is trying to lift, and it’s the same as the other side, but with less weight transfer, with the weight shifting OFF of the drive wheels instead of ONTO the drive wheels. The traction bars could be “tuned” by adjusting the rubber “snubber” closer to the leaf pack, but if it’s too close, it makes for a jarring ride, as the front half of the springs won’t flex as much. This could have been done behind the axle, but it would need to be on top and you wouldn’t be able to see it as easily to keep track of its movement. Leaf springs suck. The modern Ram trucks with coils are far superior to leaf springs, by far. The Chryslers handled better because of the torsion bars up front, not because of leaf springs out back.

So stock they can burn tire ?

cause you know how for trucks you have to change gears or add a posi

@@eldesconocido4835 an rt can easily burn tire

Press and hold the traction control button for more than 5 seconds or until the other light comes on.

Juan Chagolla did you figure it out? I have the same problem and model

@@stephen1805 That doesnt work for my 06 charger RT

Look at your build date on the driver side door. If it is older than 04/06 then this will not work for you and you should read up on pulling fuse #17. I have a '2006' RT with a build date of 7/05 and this doesnt work for me either.

@@MazzifLOL I don't have a plate on my drivers door? There is nothing there, no stickers, nothing.

Lol you can’t. It’s awd not 4wd, you can’t just turn the transfer case off.

+Dreadlife313 Hey it will go off when you shut the car off, and when you turn it back it should be off. If it's not off after restarting car then it could be an issue with your sensors or something similar (my BAS light would come on every time I made a left turn and stay on for a few days, sensor had an issue - was nothing to do with traction control).

Smh.. stuck on after disabling??

Yes shut off the car its back on immediately when you turn on

wheel hop is really hard on axles..they can break..it's part of why they put traction control, launch control in cars like this. shame Chrysler went away from the simpler, stronger, more efficient leaf spring rear suspension of the muscle car days up through the 80's. although they kept them in trucks till 2008 and gen 1 Durangos. but no wheel hop only in the case of Mopars bc proper design/metallurgy, GM and Ford used either coil springs or substandard leafs. with a Mopar vehicle there never was wheel hop. and they, by way of simple physics, geometry etc, plant/push the axle down..the harder you hit the accelerator, the harder they push down, the more traction benefit. when launching a Mopar hard off the line, the rear of the car would actually go up! along with the front. awesome stuff.

Your first mistake was buying a 3.5 🤣🤣🤣 get a rt bro

I have the same problem, did you ever figure out how to turn it back on

For me that is fuse 17, it controls the abs and also esp, I don’t see it being problematic if your just drifting in a parking lot but if your doing a circuit on a track trying to slow down for the corners could have some unpleasant consequences because there’s nothing stopping your breaks from locking up the tire. I think cruise control is another fuse but I could be wrong, look it up for your car specifically.

I just tried it, do not do it!! It disables abs, esp, cruise control, speedometer, autostick, transmission won’t gear up, reverse parking sensors don’t work, who knows what else it disables, it drifted very nice after I took it out but there was a strange smell so I immediately popped the fuse back in and everything is back to normal, I’m just going to have to save up $50 and buy the NoEsp switch which only disables esp.

@@BINX-RR I won’t be racing in my car😂😂 But I need to figure out why my cruise control isn’t working. I was told that it was the esp/traction control because both of those lights are on.

Yes should be the same

Only if you did this specific trick. Otherwise it won't fully turn off like this by itself. If both lights came on by itself it could be a different issue.

Nothing yet! Hopefully something soon!

Did you ever figure out what your car was doing mine is doing this right now

It will go off when you turn off the car

It’s not hard to see the applications if you need to put max power down without worrying about slip than this is the mode for you

Yeah that's right it'll go back on when you turn the car on/off again. Not sure if there's another way while driving to do it

Its in km/h not mph since it's a Canadian car haha

220 mph faster than a hellcat 😂

Hello! Yes it's a great color :) Unfortunately you can't change the temperature unless you have EVIC -Electronic Vehicle Information Centre (basically a bunch of menus you can see in the dash and control with the steering wheel buttons, like 0-60 times, braking distance, etc.) I'm pretty sure the V6 models don't have it (I could be wrong) but yeah without EVIC you can't change much

Yeah I think we can't however send me your email I have a nice sticker and modes on my car maybe you will like it

+Marspeed forget to tag you :D

Lmaooo

@@hunterspoint33 I already bought my avenger 2.4 but the traction cannot be removed, the 6-cylinder version if you have it

theplacebord for speed you need to get a tuner (like predator or diablo) that will take that off. The ESP stuff doesn’t work on 06s for some reason but google NO ESP MOD and some people have a way to do it on the dodge charger forums

Marspeed thank you :)

MrTB38 once you turn off the car it will turn off, I have to do this every time I start er up

@@MarspeedCars our 2014 Journey SXT 3.6L AWD is the same. traction control resets at next restart..not gunna do burnouts with it, bc AWD but it's more fun in slippery conditions. to turn it off? there's a nice lil button, marked with the usual "car and squiggly lines", lol!

And I guess you've never turned your car off ...and then back on ?? Once disabled turning it off and on DOES NOT RESET THE TRAC CONTROL 😭

Pioneer fhx 721 bt. It’s discontinued now but they have newer ones

Gregory Lewis do you have a key or push button? And what year?

Marspeed it didn’t work for me either and I have a 2006 5.7 300. Any tips?:/

AsapRockyOG I hear it doesn’t work on some 06s. I would google “No ESP Mod” and that will work

It's not the only way to disable traction control. If you hold the button down for 7 seconds after you initially press it then that will also fully disable traction control

Yeah It doesnt work on my buddys 2006 300c. Is there any way to do it?

@@hittakz3469 pull the ABS fuse out in the fuse box in the engine bay

@@deshawnstewart1513 lmao we figured it out by now go look up his youtube driftlaccc he go crazy in the 300 now

If the light is staying on that means the traction control system isn't working. It's not dangerous in normal weather, but if there is any rain, snow, etc., there will be no traction control available. So yes it could be dangerous in these types of conditions as you could lose control of your car (since TC helps control the stability/traction). I'd just get it looked at/fixed before winter comes.

Driver mod fixes ALL stability control problems....

Thanks Mike! $600? That seems like a fair price (but still a lot of course lol). My suspension is okay right now, but last time I changed the tires my rear shocks were leaking, one of the control arms was stuck, and the front tie rods needed to be replaced. But to try and answer your question, yes these cars are definitely notorious for the suspension issues with the stock parts (tie rods inner/outer, ball joints, control arms, etc.) Guess the suspension can't handle the heavy car that well.

I'm curious as to if I'm owning the car for at least three years, if it would be cheaper to do a full SRT suspension swap...

A quick Google search says no more than $1000 USD before labor. Looks like I'm doing a susp. swap. Lol. See if that's better than replacing my wheel bearings every 8 months hahaha

What car do you have? Can that SRT upgrade work on the V6 models? I've heard that the SRT susp. is rougher (stiffer ride) and lowers you by 1" (but I would probably wanna go lower than that in the future). Does that SRT susp. break down less? I have had this car for about 40,000 miles and just had to replace all 4 control arms, and bushing up front - to the tune of $1200 installed which is crazy. Plus tie rods and shocks that I did last year. So I do agree the OEM suspension is absolute shit on the V6 models lmao

I've been chatting with some guys on an LX forum. I'll keep you posted. It may be that you just had some bad parts, but it's weird that it's been 7 years before the bad parts actually died. Apparently the SRT parts fit in the back, but not the front, and aren't structurally stronger, but I'm clarifying if the parts used are just better quality overall. I'd have to think so, considering the stiffer ride? So a softer ride (SXT springs) plus the rest of the SRT parts it would make sense things would last a little longer... But Idk. I'll keep you updated. Totally off topic of this video but stuff we've talked about before, I'm looking at getting a Thrush glasspack for now for something cheap and simple but still sounds good. Also looking into maybe getting the Hellcat spoiler installed. I've seen a few videos with that and man.. It's smaller than the 2009 R/T spoiler, but it looks goooooddd. Really subtle change but it adds a lot of character to the rear end of the car. Now I just need some personality on the driver and passenger front doors... I'm not liking how they're just big plain panels, but some do.

Yeah man the exact same thing happened to me, every time I turned the wheel left that shit came on. It turned out to be some debris/dirt in the sensor. Could be the same for you, or could be a steering wheel sensor issue. Try turning the wheel all the way left and then all the way right in Acc mode, then put the wheel in centre position and then turn on the car. Should shut off that light

Mate, I have the same problem with my charger 2008 r/t. Could you tell me what sensor it was and how you fix it?

Do you have an ESP button near the radio?

If not then you may not have it since it’s a base model

Marspeed alright thanks man. i will check when i get home.

Rosaury Alonso get an after market steering wheel and you will see

Upgrade to a v8

Buy a Charger

TRILL PRINCY I Have The Same Model, It Doesnt Work

Same here

Take the button out and use the key

Lol

That's true but you can't drive it like that for long it's will cause the trans to go into limp mode

Not sure about the Ram, you'd have to try it out and see

My car is a Canadian car so we use Celsius and it came like that, not sure if you can change if you have the V6 model but there could be a way if you have EVIC cluster

@@MarspeedCars yes sear no problem if 6v ..my car is 8v ..you can but step to change..and thank you for you ..and nice to meat you👍

That's what I want to know

So this is 2 years late, but you should be able to do it by trading your shit in for a hemi

@@George-nx4bp 😂😂😂😂😂

Same way you executed 📴

That’s what this trick is for my 08 doesn’t have the esp button however if you drive to 15 mph or higher and turn the ignition it will turn off your trac control

I seen a comment that said just turn off your car

2yrs and still no response to how to turn it back on?!?!?!

Paul Shelley just turn your car off then back on

Literally my question

Why would you try to in a v6 anyway

i have a 2010 v6 and itll still roast tires, just takes a bit more effort

did it work for u? also have a 05 300c

That's what I'm saying,,, how would it be turned back on..

I just turned the key like this for a few seconds while in park and it turned mine back on

Carlos Hernandez they should come off when your turn the car off

Marspeed they still on

But i appreciate you gettin back

Did it work?

@@coogilistic yep!

@@piggy_5.764 what model? it won’t work on my 2006 300c 5.7l V8 hemi RWD but I hear it works on the AWD version for some reason.

Need a tuner for that (I’m assuming you mean when in auto stick mode)

Resets once you shut off the car

@@MarspeedCars thanks 😊