Love the 10/22 as a former gunsmith specializing in 10/22 finding ammo it likes is imperative. Also a few more things that may help on some guns. Remove barrel band and free float the barrel. Sand barrel channels so a dollar bill will slide all the way down. Also if you have lapping and polishing compound lap and polish the barrel. Last you can bed the receiver. All are low cost enhancements that help anywhere from a little to a lot depending on the 10/22 Great Video
I am also former gunsmith and I have found !0-22's shoot better with a foreward upward pressure point in the stock. (I am pretty sure that is why the engineers at Ruger put it there) I do free float the barrel up to the pressure point but I leave it in. With the 10-22 only having a single takedown screw the forward pressure point keeps downward pressure on the rear of the action to control any movement. The Victor Titan stock has an adjustable inlet to help eliminate any rear action movement. Victor also sells a spike for the Titan for the same purpose. I have not purchased a "spike" yet because of the three 10-22's I have in the Titan stock they All shoot great.
I also use the Bell and Carlson M40 stock, I have two. It costs about $125.00 more than the Victor but I think they are worth every penny because the M40 has full aluminum bedding and skeleton inside the stock from forearm to butt stock.
@@karencollins9363 I have literally built well over 300 10/22s and forward pressure points will effect barrel harmonics and accuracy in most guns and negates the theory of free floating. A pressure point just forward of the chamber a few inches will do the same and allow for the barrel to be free floated. Also you can JB weld bed but use a release agent the action in the stock and that will help tighten stuff up in the receiver area. Just tricks I have learned over last 30 years of gunsmithing.
Great video, but one thing I have always found will improve accuracy, 22 rifles don't kick, so we tend to hold them very loosely. If you want to improve your groups hold the 22 into your shoulder like you would for a 30.06 or 308, good and firm, then tighten your hand firmly on the grip which will allow you to squeeze that trigger rather than jerk it.
At about the 3-minute mark, you state that you pulled that one. I don't think so. I watch the shell ejection to determine if the shell is coming out the same. I called your flyer before you did. The shell from that round didn't eject the same as the previous ones. That was an actual flier! Wade
Are you having a lot of trolls on your videos? I noticed that you seem to be trying to prove that you did what you did lately. You do not have to prove it to me because I have used your tuning tips on my 10-22 and they all shoot lights out. Thanks for sharing the tips and the videos.
Appreciate it! Not so much trolls anymore but just to show the editing process, plus I know it just verifies the results even more, two different perspectives if that makes sense
The standard for precision 10/22 at 50 is .28 of an inch CONSISTENTLY with five shots . Which is impossible with a standard 1022. You absolutely right your tips work on getting the most out of a stock rifle . But you can take to another level with match barrel, bolt and receiver. But of course it's no longer stock. The best upgrade that's not super expensive for a triger I'd say is the Tandomkross ULTIMATE KIT. it's really nice . And a about 100 bucks. Gets it shooting a little better throw in a match bolt and it will tighten up more. Even with a stock barrel. I LIKE YOUR VIDEOS and been watching for years .
That's what everyone says but it doesn't matter I've done this since I've had the rifle from 2013 and it shoots extremely well in benchrest competition, scoring average 1800-1900 points in ARA
@@STKO2011 may I ask what competitions you are shooting in? I’ve always thought about doing some low level rimfire competitions for fun and to see how well I can do with a factory or lightly modified 10/22.
We've talked about this in the past but I don't know if I ever told you what I learned. If you take the bolt back to cut the first round (just pull the bolt back enough to go behind the bullet and let it go forward to cut the groove in it) then the first shot usually fires the same as the rest.
The stock barrel is ok , but you can improve it way more by Barrel lapping &Polishing and the big thing is take to gun smith and have him true the BOLT and take down the face of the chamber buy several thouusanths. but on the flip side you can by a Better barrel even GREEN Mountain and a Match BOLT and groups will be consistant of around .38-.45. of course its not cheap or expensive id say few hundred more. I feel going with a "Sporter Chamber" gives more flexibilty and not so ammo picky. compared to a " BENTZ". i have a STOCK Bargera BXR that shoots FED AUTO MACTH very well under half inch consistantly not bad but of course, but the gun is on a higer tier compared to my stock 10/22.
if you have the bolt open on the first round, the 1st round goes up in the chamber and bolt touches and scars the following shots ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zbZhrcpEZU0.html
Probably not much but I know 22mag ammo, and I would stick to better quality ammo, shot 22mag Winchester Dynapoints and bullets were loose in the casings
