Great job. Your adjustment method is correct. As for Jack position? I have used the same position many times only on my light utility trailers. On my heavy 8000lb and above I only lift from the frame. (Per all trailer manufacturers) I’ve ever owned. Reason is axle can be bent and you can’t see the axle damage. It shows up in poor tire ware. I’ve even seen people jack from the axle center. Totally bending the axle. I will admit if broke down on the side of the road you jack wherever you can. Been there. Your video was very good right to the point. I’m getting ready to pull all four axle bearings and repack and check brakes. I may just use the easy lube and adjust brakes. Subscribed as I want to see your other videos. This video will help those with little experience become more experienced. Thank you for your time. At 70yo we love our 5th wheel toy hauler.
Just a thought!!! Why not use a 4×4 to span the front and rear axle and place the jack between the two tires? That way you only jack up each side one time instead of twice! Like I said just a thought. 🍻
Great video thanks. I just ran into this vid looking for solutions for my issue. My trailer keeps giving my brake controller an OL code and eventually blows the fuse. I’m pretty sure it’s my 5th wheel and not my truck because another truck pulling the 5th wheel gave it the same issue. Do you think this might help? Or do I have another problem altogether?
I would definitely inspect the brakes or the line maybe. Do they work at all? It’s possible the brake line may be damaged or one of the actuators had shorted out and maybe needs replaced.
you say to rotate to eliminate drag, so one is left to assume up is release and down is tighten. seems to be the reverse on mine. I followed your instructions and it locked them right up. i moved the screw driver up to rotate the assembly down and it loosened. but my brakes still lock up on application
From the inner side you rotate the adjustment wheel in the up direction to tighten or expand the brake pads out a little. You should have a little bit of drag on the wheel but you should be able to spin it by hand still relatively easy. That’s it. When you drop it down and readjust your brake controller and go adjust it down the road a few times, by the time you have hit the brakes 4-6 times, if you lifted the wheels again they would be free spinning again because the high spots will wear right down and now you should be getting better, even pressure on the drum. Hope that makes sense.
@@johnnysweekends I think this might be my problem. Just installed a trailer brake controller and not getting any error codes and I think the wiring is good, but it wont lock up the wheels at any setting.
Could you do the adjustment with the wheels on the ground? My 2013 F130 has the gain set to 10 and I still feel like the trailer brakes aren't doing enough....time to adjust.
sorry, do I need to have the brakes pressed when doing this? If I don't, does it mean that when towing my trailer, the brake pads will be braking the wheels even if I'm not braking the vehicle?
No brakes, just lift just enough and spin like in the video. Have them drag just a pinch. Once you hit the brakes a couple times they will be good to go. No drag.
Most trailer brakes I’ve ever adjusted The spring pack is right up against the backing plate and you cannot get to nothing I have crazily bent screwdrivers to try to do the job but if the starwheels does not turn good you’re screwed
Help! I tightened my camper brake too much and its locked up.(just on one wheel) When I turn the gear teeth to loosen, nothing seems to be happening. Appreciate any advice thx.
After you loosen it a couple you may have to hook the truck to it and move it forward then back real quick just to break it loose. You are probably not strong enough to budge it free. Let us know
I have a brand new 2021 single axle travel trailer. After my fourth trip of towing the trailer I noticed some odd braking when I apply the brakes. the trailer is locking up pretty hard. Is this normal for a new trailer? I thought it was my brake controller and bought a new one but same issue. It’s weird cause when I apply the brakes the first time it’s ok, starts to lock up after the second or third time applying the brakes.
@@johnnysweekends I had it on the least sensitive setting and they still lock up hard. That’s why I bought a new brake controller but it did the exact same thing. My truck is brand new so I’m pretty sure it’s the wiring on the truck side. Figured it’s more trailer related.
I couldn't see what you were doing with the screwdriver. There was a tab that the end of the screw driver was touching but I don't understand what you were doing. This video confused me more than help me.
Sorry it confused you. The wheel inside moves up or down. Spins really to push the pads out or in a little. You are moving those tabs up… the spins the dial inside to adjust the pads ever so slightly. It not easy to see with a camera in your way. Not easy to see in general but just enough to do the job. Once you do it then you’ll get it and know how to do the rest all the time. Hope this helps
@@johnnysweekends Ahh I got it. Just like the old adjustable brakes. Duuuh. I should have known that. Thanks for taking the time to post this video and taking the time to explain to a dunce like me.
The amount of drag you see is so minimal to when you finally get it on the ground and being towed. And once you apply the brakes 3-4 times that drag will be completely minimized to pretty much none be it’s so minimal if you do it right. And it’s not dragging all the way around just the high spots on the pads which again will wear down quick and I’m sure if you checked it the wheels would be free spinning.
Ahh yea discs are nice and honestly I haven’t done drums in a long time which I don’t know which is better electric drum or hydraulic….. I think electrical maybe because if the hydraulic leaks it’s a mess. Idk they are both lame…. Darn trailers just go to disc..!!!!!!! 🤣
I just did a tandem trailer brake job with a little drag of course, towed off and on about 12-13 hours total-but now one brake is warm and the others nothing. Do I need to readjust all 4? Also my brake gain seems factory at 8… maybe gotta tackle that too
Hello - great video and very easy. However, I have a 2023 Aliner and the star adjuster cannot be turned clockwise any further. It can go counter-clockwise. There is a slight drag on the brakes (these are new brakes with about 300 miles on them). I contacted Aliner and they said I should have power hooked up to the brakes and someone holding down the brake pedal in my truck when I make the adjustments. I haven’t seen this in any video about adjusting brakes. Does this sound right to you? Thanks!
I don’t know honestly as it could be a different axle or different brake brand. A lot of changes have happened over the last couple years so it may be new. I would look up the brand of axle and brake components and find the brake adjustment procedure process. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful
Modern trailer brakes are almost always self-adjusting. This video is for MANUAL adjust brakes. Self adjusting brakes can be pushed manually but are designed to rotate more easily one direction to take up slack as they self-adjust
If your camper, trailer or vehicle is raised and you)re under it, a jack stand is always a great idea. You created room to fit underneath. If that room shrinks, you are the jack stand.
A jack stand won’t change the sitting height of the Rv. It will only prevent the wheel that’s off the ground a 1/4 inch from dropping down on the ground that 1/4 inch. I guess watch your fingers..🤷♂️👍🏼
Hey thank you for the video I'm having an issue with my brake controller lately if I hit the brake pedal at a stop sign they stay on. If I tap the break they shut back off is this because they're out of adjustment? Thank you
No that would be the actuator sticking from a few reasons. A short, corrosion causing a poor signal, maybe a bad ground and more. I would look into some service on the unit or even check wiring at the truck to make sure you have a clean connection at the truck and trailer side and then head towards the wiring under for a inspection. And then obviously continue if nothing is found
@@johnnysweekends update it was the break switch under the dash. I noticed ever time I would hit the side of the pedal it would release. 2008 suburban 2500. Fixed. Thank you for your time.
Please explain to me how a drum brake will TELL YOUR TRUCK that the pads are used ??? Are you serious ?? The trailer brake controler SENDS voltage to the brakes .It does not RECEIVE information....
They don’t tell your truck anything. Nor does the truck tell the trailer anything except when to apply voltage and how much by you stepping on the brake pedal. But as the pads wear the actuating arm only has so much throw. So as they wear you will typically have to increase voltage to gain more throw on the arm. If you have a lot of gain and brakes are not working great, then it’s probably a good time to go increase the adjuster wheel. This pushes the pads out before the magnet and actuating arm are moved. So now when activated the arm doesn’t have to travel as far and less voltage should be needed for normal brake performance.
Kinda true. If when possible lifting by the frame is a good choice pending your type of axles and even location of your trailer and even type of trailer. Some trailers the frame is actually hard to access if at all. Some axles like a torsion axle should be lifted by the bracket the torsion arm goes into. Or the frame if easy access. If lifting the axle, as long as you lift as far out as possible normally by the Ubolts it will be fine especially for a small lift such as this. Most of the talk it more legal jargon from the manufacturers and dealers so they can void anything and everything if you don’t do something there exact way or take it to the dealer at all. People have been lifting by the axles for decades and as long as it’s for the right purpose and done right you’ll be fine. This is no different then one wheel way up on a curb and the other flat on the ground on the other side. Or you hitting a big pothole at 65 which will create more wear and tear then a quick 2 inch lift to free spin a wheel and do a break adjustment. When doing more work that’s long term like bearing and brakes and more then sure, frame for sure…👍🏼
@@froglobster If he bent the axle housing, its likely because he placed the jack toward the center of the axle. LIke the the poster mentioned, keep the jack close to the outer U bolts & you will be fine.
Please never again crawl under any vehicle supported only by a hydraulic jack! It’s just a major life altering accident waiting to happen. Always use jack stands.
Considering 3 other wheels are on the ground, 2 wheels are chalked and the front it planted on the ground with a tongue jack, I think one wheel a 1/2 inch off the ground is going to be ok 👍🏼
@@johnnysweekends well I agree with you but it’s best on RU-vid to show others. Yes I’ve done it many times but no more. Wife catches me without my jackstands. I pay a price.
Sorry to say, but this video was totally unhelpful when it came to actually adjusting the brakes he didn’t show how to actually check for the drag on adjustment…
you forgot the most important thing, safety ,never just use a jack without car stands i have seen the aftermath of a car that feel of a jack with no stands , and it happens a lot
Well with the unit chalked and 3 other wheels on the ground and one wheel about .5 inches off the ground, it’s not really the same. Unless you put your finger under the tire…🤷♂️
