how to adjust motorcraft 2 barrel carburetor 

Same as the one I'm working on atm- thanks for the vid. The car is a 1970 Notchback looks standard (302w) the carby is causing issues - but then it is 45 years old! Your carb looks to be the early one like the one I have here. so you've helped with a few suggestions. cheers.

Hello,I rebuilt my 2150 carburetor and my mixture screw were out at 2 1/2,this seems to be the basic settings from what I hear all the time.But your right,you still may have to play around a bit sometimes,but this settings seems to almost be the norm.Keep up the good videos,helping out a whole lot of people,,,ENJOY,,,,,Mark....

So I just spent a good bit of time sorting thru your videos, its amazing how similar we are in our choice of mechanical toys haha. So I have a 79 F250 4x4 351M with a 2bbl (Holley) so truck runs great, but does have start issues. When its sat for several hours say over night she will fire right up, if I run it down the road and stop to get fuel it will fire right over, if its sits for more then say 20 mins its fairly hard to get fuel into it usually have to fully engage throttle then she fires, it runs a bit rough for a couple of seconds then smooth's out, I just ordered a vacuum gage to set it right. I'm expecting it to be more of a float issue. I also ordered a rebuild kit. I'm happy with it for now except for the fuel mileage 8.1, I'm considering hooking a water injector up to it, on my 66D200 225 single bbl Carter, was getting 10,2 MPG after I hooked the water injector up it went to 12.1mpg. I wont do it till I have the carb set up correctly and then can get another baseline. You remind me of a mechanic I worked with in AFG, id spend the little bit of off time I had not being out of the wire in his shop tinkering on stuff. I really appreciate the level of effort u go too uploading all these videos! Frog sends.

Have had many cars with this carb & I really like them, the parts are still available here in Australia, I have an idea they were built by Carter for Ford who wanted a cheaper alternative to Holley, even the four barrel version the lid came of to expose both bowls, they used the same power valve system as Holley, most problems I have came across in my years of tinkering with cars is people think to go faster you fit a bigger carburettor this could work on the race track but not on the road.. If it wasn't for the US built V8 my life would be boring, I am 63,even the family ski boat has a 292 Y Block..

Thanks for clearing up where the idle screws are, great vid.

glad to hear you have it figured out. yes it should idle high if it has the original choke equipment still intact. should be between 1500 and 1100ish until it is warm. shouldn't have high idle for more than 5 to 8 minutes

it could be many things depending on the carb. do you know if its lean or rich? what carb does it run? a bit more info would be helpful

Excellent teaching and TEC skills

Hey thunderhead which way do you adjust the rod on the side with the curb idle screw for richer? Leaner?

Thanks this helped a lot getting my Fairlane running. Should the mixture screws both be set the same?

well, I think youl just need to play with your fast idle speed screw. as for the curb idle speed. do you have a tach? it would help you with the curb idle screw. you want to idle around 800 rpm. also you will need to adjust the mix screws most likely. I believe I explain that in the vid pretty well. if you have to, just wire the choke open for now to get the rest straightened out. besides, you don't need a choke when its warm. once you get it running well, come back to that.

Just not found this video on YT today. have seen several others that you've made. always a pleasure. i have several autolite and motorcraft 2100 style carbs. love to use them. super simple and parts aren't difficult to find. was wondering how much tinkering you've done with a MC 2100? ever drilled/tapped one for air bleed adjustability? i'm trying to use a 1.23 venturi carb for a non/factory application. just trying to learn more about adding some adjustability to these carbs. any leads or specific direction you'd recommend? i know i could get a summit or holley, but i'd rather do some legwork with what i have. i'm a machinist/fabricator. i have the tools and ability to do the work...just on a steep learning curve at the moment.

Hi, we have a problem with our motorcraft 2150. It iddles at 1700 rpm and the idle screw on the throttle is already all the way out. People tell me I should adjust the mixture screws untill the rpm (manifold vacuum) is at its highest. How can I then make the rpm go down at idle?

Hi I have some gas leaking from the top of my carb, it’s very similar to the one in this video any suggestions? Thank you

The motorcraft jets are usually included in the carb rebuild kit.

Where do I find manifold vacuum on my Motorcraft 2V?

I have found the problem, there was indeed a vacuum leakage. We have adjusted it to 850 rpm at engine warmed up. He still iddles quite high in the beginning but this drops down after a while. This is normal?

So the adjustment on the accelerator pump? Right is more fuel and left is less fuel? I just rebuilt mine and my idle mixture screws were like 9 turns out lol and now that I have them at 1 1/2 out the carb floods out so I need to start from square one with adjusting the carb

I just started working on a truck with a 351w. It has a 2100. It seems super rich because the exhaust is super hot just standing still, and it stalls whenever you put it in drive. I've been told by the owner they think it might have a leaking accelerator pump. What are your thoughts?

Thanks for this!

All right, thanks for the help ;)

Just posting a question here, as I assume most people watching this will have a Motorcraft 2 barrel. I have a Motorcraft 2100 I believe, on my 73 F100 with a 360FE. I always use a vacuum gauge when I adjust my screws, to find best vacuum and the base setting of 2 1/2 turns out is crap for mine. I fiddled around with them today and had to back them both out 5 and 1/4 turns. Now this seems way excessive to me, since my 79 Thunderbird with a 302 has the same 2 barrel Motorcraft and it always liked the screws set around 2 3/4 to 3 turns out. I would expect a difference because of a bigger engine in my truck, but does 5 1/4 turns out seem right?

well miss, I think you are entirely on the right track! they would definitely cause fuel metering issues as well as idle issues. IMO get those fixed and then work from there. don't want to change too much at a time. check back if you still have issues. best of luck

Holley Jets worked for me

you sir most likely have a vacuum leak somewhere. assuming the carb is not damaged, if you have the throttle blades all the way closed, the engine should definitely not have enough air to idle let alone idle at 1700 especially on a two barrel. check some of your hoses like the brake booster hose. that's what I can come up with wiothout being there and seeing it run

One issue is these caburators are getting older and the float bowl throttle body assemblies along with the airhorn were made out of pot metal. especially in the mid to late 70s. The accelerator pump button valve inside the accelerator pump housing were junk. if they back leaked your venturi cluster will not draw fuel from the Jets. further more the accelerator pump housing ( the part that has the cover diaphragm and where the rubber button valve sits) is very thin. Due to the metal detioration and accelerator pump return spring pressure. you get small hairline cracks to the float bowl causing back leak when the diaphragm returns back on its stroke. I have seen carbs where liberal JB weld was used to seal the issue. but eventually that pealed and re cracked when the pot metal kept swelling. true this carb has few adjustments the metalergy sucked and the mass production lacked in proper cleaning of the passages and improper staking of the Welsh plugs. as the metal swells around it those have a tendency of becoming loose. It's better to get a Holly or Carter or Edelbroch aftermarket Carbs. Because they were built to last. Ford built carbs suffered from worn throttle shafts poor metalergy rebushing white soft metal only loosens off due to swelling. And since these are emissionized carbs the mid range is non adjustable. the metering rods are preset and have no grooves to raise or lower the rods. Nowadays one can't find bigger or smaller gaged jets for these carbs anymore. Go holly or carter or Edelbroch. Chevy and dodge did. Rochester was formerly British built. I have no faith in Ford built emissionized carbs. Short term gain. long term pain.

no problem im the carb doctor.

The screw on the side under the throttle linkage is not a main idle mixture screw as you identify it, it is solely an idle speed setting... has nothing to do with the air/fuel mixture. Idle air/fuel mixture are the two in the front only....

my god i wanted to pull my hair out listening to your video. Good content but ffs show some emotion.

Napoleon dynamite describes poorly the components of a simple carburetor. Nothing on how to adjust. Waste of time.