GREAT explanation but every time you tightening the valve make sure not to remove the filler gauge for better valve clearance accuracy, after you finish adjusting all the valves make sure you do an idle relearn to your computer/ecu. This is how is done turn all the electrical component offs stereo,lights,ac i mean everything even the dome light , start your engine hold the rpm at 3,000 till the fans come on and them let it idle for 5 minutes, after this is done you would feel like you got a brand new car ....
I am about to do this and after watching your video i feel more confident specially the part where you are explaining about how to line up the notches on the cam gear at 90 degrees to do each cylinder.
Mine's an 04 Civic w ABS, and the ABS module is next to the timing belt cover. Make sure you have a 10mm socket that'll fit on an extra long-handled ratchet without adapters and extensions, or prepare to deal with getting the ABS modulator out of the way before you can get to the timing belt cover bolts.
Been a sub of yours for years and this video is what i ended up watching over and over again. I'm always scared to do mechanical work on my 7th gen civic lx, but this got me the courage! Thank you!
Still a great video!! Helped me get rid of the ticking noise. Some tips for anyone doing this. When the engine is at TDC adjust clearance for all valves on cylinder 1, intake valves in cylinder 2, and exhaust valves in cylinder 3. They should all have some play like in the video. Then just turn the crank to the 4th cylinder and do all those, intake on cyl 3 and exhaust on cyl 4. And you're done, if you try to do it one cylinder at a time, not all the valves in that cylinder will be closed
Alfredo Rojas So when do you do exhaust on cylinder 2 then? You say; turn crank to cyl 4 and do all those, intake on cyl 3 and exhaust on cyl 4.. Doing 4s exhaust twice but no cyl 2 exhaust? Typo?
scott boyd ur right! It was a typo! TDC #1: all valves on cylinder 1, intake valves on cyl 2 and exhaust valves on cyl 3. then turn the crank to TDC #4: all valves on cylinder 4, exhaust valves on cyl 2 and intake valves on cyl 3.
Nice job on the video! I was getting lazy and was gonna have Honda do this for me but when they quoted me $450 to $550 I said Ummmm NOOOOO! I'm used to hydraulic valve trains but this is a piece of cake.
Hey wratchet and wrenches.i know this an old video but my 02 civic is misfiring and i adjusted the valve clearance and since then i can hear them through valve cover whenever the car idling.. The measurements on the hood shows IN .020 Ex .025 .i rea adjusted them but I'm still having the noise.you think i can use a smaller feeler gauge.?
@@declanosbourne62 What does valve lash have to do with your misfiring? Misfiring is ignition that is early or late. Check your ignition wiring harness for a short.
@@cavemanjoe7972 well, since i adjusted the valves i haven't got any misfiring since then and its more than two months ago since i worked on it. i took it to a shop before i adjusted the valve they checked everything they know could cause the the problem and they recommended valve adjustments and it work.
CavemanJoe if one of your valves isn’t properly seated when the piston is in its compression and combustion stroke. It can cause misfiring. That’s what happened to me. I went down changing everything in between. Even a new catalytic converter. Ended up being the valve lash
Great video it helped me alot! My mom gave me her old 2003 civic as my first car and she never did a valve adjustment once (257,000km). So the ticking is kinda loud. I also noticed that my friends civic makes more power than mine and he suggested my valves need adjusting since I'm losing back pressure; causing my engine to produce less power.
I just did an 02 today after watching your video a few times. Had to change the gaskets on the valve cover and the oil pan so I thought I might as well adjust the valve lash because it was sounding like a lawnmower. Honestly, your video helped me out a lot while going through the process even after reading the Haynes manual. For some reason... I got no play like in your video @13:53 prior to adjusting the lashes even when set at TDC. They were all stiff. And also, I had no movement with the feeler gauges until after I adjusted them. Anyways, before I can start my car I'm supposed to wait 24hrs for the Permatex to cure before I can drop any oil in the engine and start it. So hopefully, all goes well tomorrow when I fire it up and the lawnmower and ticking sound goes away. Thanks
Nice video. I Think you do a very good job showing how to adjust the valves . With that said you wrong on why you have to adjust them in the first place. You have to have clearance so that the valve fully seats. When the valves heat up they grow and take up clearance and if there isn't enough the valve will not seat and it and can cause the compression to leak off or burning of a exhaust valve seat. You have to adjust them over time because of wear, the clearance will start to tighten up. So you just adjust them back to spec to compensate. In a hydraulic lifter valve train the lifter automatically adjust and you don't have to worry about this. Again you are a good teacher and make nice videos. Keep up the good work.
Interesting. But isn't he correct in saying that improper valve clearance can create too much wear on the cam lobes? I understand what you are saying and I agree but aren't both cases true?
hey bro...that was a awesome video with a lot of work...I just wanna ask if u got any video about change ur camshaft or put it on good position...thx and keep up the good work ;)
nice you just gave me alot of advice i just changed my oil and took the 01 civic ex 5 speed for a spirited drive and i started getting ticking from cylinder 1 its got 174k so im sure its due for a valve lash adjustment if I need anymore help how can I email you for some advice?
do you really need to, or is it really necessary to figure the right turning of the crankshaft out when adjusting the valve on certain vehicles? some say it does not matter whether turning it clockwise or counter clockwise, is that so?
Hey man, thanks a lot for the video. Very valuable. Question: How do you know when you need to adjust the valves? Does the motor make some weird noise?
Thank you for the video.... I was having problems with my firing order getting each valve at top dead center.... Thank you. I do have one concern with the spec no#. I have a 2001 Honda Civic which tells me that Valve Lash is IN: 0.20+O.02 mm and EX: 0. 25+ 0. 02 mm.... If I'm correct your numbers where different. What were you working on? Because my engine look pretty much like the one you were working on.....
Late to the party and maybe unrelated question to the topic of this video. But I recently did some work to my Honda and there's a 14mm bolt to the passenger side of the rocker arm assembly, it doesn't hold down the rocker arms it looks like its just a plug. Do you know what that 14mm bolt is for?
I've been losing my mind trying to set the valve lash on my 2004 Honda Civic EX 1.7 Liter SOHC. It's been more than a month of working at it, using feeler gauges and go/no go gauges, but I'm no closer to having them set properly. When you insert the feeler gauge, do you do so at an angle? Does the angle matter? It seems like it would since the engine's valve springs are canted roughly 25 degrees down on both Intake and Exhaust sides. The end of my rocker arm are very thin and pointed, making them prone to cutting into my gauges. Consequently, I can't find the drag point. It's either loose enough to not contact the top and bottom or it's got hold of the guage and is gouging a furrow into it. And I have had no better luck with the go/no go gauges. The idea is to set the valve lash so the thin end of the blade can pass (which dragged like heck) but the thicker end can't. I did as instructed, but I must be a gorilla since they were so overtightened that I nearly blew up the damn engine. Can anyone throw me a bone here?
The way I do it is the smallest gauge won't fit without force, the middle gauge will fit in with minor resistance, and the smallest gauge will glide right through. I feel like that method is the best because it is fool proof and takes the "feel" (guessing) out of the equation. And lash adjustment assumes that there is no resistance that a gauge smaller than your target shouldn't be able to fit. Just that the angle of fitting a single gauge through perfectly without scuffing it and adding resistance screws you over if you use one gauge instead of three. Tell me if i am wrong?
All you want is a little resistance when sliding the feeler gauge in and out in a straight line of both flat surfaces, also it is much easier leaving the gauge in while tightening the jam nut because then you can tell right after if you're setting is still good or if it needs to be adjusted, also remember the #1 cylinder is at the starter end or #4 next to the timing belt, I found this out when I did a head gasket on my 2001 civic ex and timing belt still running strong with 253,000 miles on it. Good luck to all ,by the way good video
@@raymondreiff8170 the point of a feeler gauge is to measure clearance. Similar to a go and no go gauge set to ensure there isn't mechanical interference. If there is any resistance than the clearance between parts is smaller than the gauge listed. I can tell you from experience being a thousands off is enough to make a perceivable difference.... Which is why I don't like "feeling" But what hurts a valve train more is the variation of lift clearance across every cylinder. You can have a quiet but uneven idle which affects the computers ability to compute fuel trims. If you aren't jamming in the feeler gauge perfectly perpendicular to the valve tip there will always be resistance even with a smaller feeler gauge... That is why feel is kinda bad... You want to trust that you aren't getting caught when you jam em in the hard to reach areas... You can't feel if a gauge is perpendicular and there is no uneeded added drag! Remember valve lash is valve CLEARANCE. Clearance implies explicitly that there is empty space between two moving parts. At .007in or clearance there will be NO interference if I attempt to fit something .007in thick. The drag I feel would be the result of gravity only. There shouldn't be any effort to move it.
I would appreciate it if someone answers this today but is it necessary or not to disconnect the alternator, besides disconnecting the battery for this operation and would it affect anything if i accidentally push down on the spring will performing the adjustment?
He shows you that you have to hold the screw driver in while you torque the nut. Just try your best to keep the screw driver still while you torque the nut. When it is tight, check the clearance again to make sure it is how you wanted it. If not, rinse and repeat. Do this 16 times lol.
Hey just wanted to ask i noticed you went from each cylinder 1,2,3,4, then 1 then 4 then 2 i was doing fine following you till you jumped from 1-4-2- thats where i got lost i also have a 2002 1,7 civic soho engine can you please elaborate a little more for jumping from 1234 to then 142? please .
Somebody pls answer me. Just bought a 02 civic ex, runs great. But after driving for a while you can hear like a small tapping or knocking type noise in and around the header area What could this be , i got it for a good deal and it's pretty clean for 02. It runs to good to get rid of it just trying to figure out what's wrong if this is what I Need to do or what
Hi just got my head cylinder resurfaced and did valve adjust. My question is do I need to do another valve adjust after I drive the car for couples miles please help thanks
I have a 01 im starting to.get a tick or knock when driving for quite awhile and it doesnt do it all the time any suggestions if its the valves or rod bearings again its not all the time and its when its warm
You may need to check your valve clearance..get a user manual from rock Auto.i paid about $20 or less for one.u can get it on Disk to.just remember to do the job when the Engine is strictly cold.
If you're on yt today and can reply asap please do. At 7:17 when you're doing the timing belt cover there's the third bolt you skipped in the video. I can't get it out either what tool did you use for it
Should all come out with a 10mm socket. If you are referring to the middle bolt (lowest one in the top cover), it is a longer bolt that holds the top and bottom covers together. If you have turned it enough that is outside of the threads, it may just require a pair of pliers or magnet to pull out.
Owen G thanks but I got it. And nah it was the one closest to you on the upper timing belt cover. I had to use a swivel head 3/8 drive with the small 10mm. A 2 inch length one was too long and the small one too short
It has to be at top dead center with the marks lined up before putting everything back together and starting your car because if not it can mess up ur engine
No, you have to turn the cam shaft 90 degrees for each cylinder lining up the marks each time like he shows. The order is 1, 3, 4, 2 The numbering for the cylinders is 1-4 from right to left if you are looking at the engine facing the front of the car.
do not turn the engine counter clockwise. it runs clockwise just like every other engine.the timing belt components are not designed to have pressure applied the opposite direction, it could jump a tooth and then you have a whole other problem.
You could not be more wrong. If you don't really know what you are talking about, then just stop. You will cause someone to do exactly what you are saying is a problem. I know you are trying to help but you are doing the opposite in this case. This is a D series engine, and anyone that knows honda engines, knows it runs COUNTER CLOCK WISE.
Thank you but dude name the cylinder your talking about. Saying "that cylinder" makes it super confusing. You dont reveal which cylinder till the very end. One would assume to go to cylinder 2 after 1 if you don't listen closely. Again thanks
Hey, wratchet and wrenches.. I'm having some misfiring issues on my 02 civic ex vtec. The misfiring is jumping all over the place and i changed lots of parts which I'm going to list here.. Plugs Coil packs Fuel pump Fuel filter Fuel injectors EGR valve and EGR valve port Cleaning but still having the same thing..the compressions are 185 on cylinder 124 and on Cyl 3 is 181 and thats above specs. I'm also having a pcv valve air leakage and i cant find any vacuum leaks. its a new pcv valve on there from honda but i still having the code for the pcv air leakage..what can you tell me about the air leak and the misfiring? Could it be valve adjustment or camshaft sensor need to be change?even though the codes dont say anything about camshaft sensor..
@@ManuelGomez-rm1rt there several things can cause misfiring. Bad plugs, bad fuel injectors, bad coils packs, fuel pump, valve adjustments as well. I changed all listed above and didn't solve my. Problem so if you change all that i listed above, do your valve adjustments. Be advised that valve adjustments must be done when the engine is dead (cold) ok.
I know this is old, but, the pcv valve has a vacuum line connected to the intake. What you can't see is the nipple directly above (about 1/2") that line on the intake that is capped off with a rubber nipple. If that rubber nipple is off or dry rotted etc. It can cause that code as well.
Why don't you do a video and elaborate. Or at the very least, explain it here. Are you suggesting to just remove the alternator, egr and coolant sensor plugs. Then coil packs, and valve cover Bolts. Then leaving the harness attached to the cover. Flopping cover and all to the left? I'd like to see you try that. Sincerely though, please explain. I'm truly curious.
