I own every “pro level” bleed kit out there, and decided to pick up the Park Tool kit for the collection. I just bled a set of Guide RS’s on a buddies bike that felt like poop despite numerous attempts to fix them. Pulled a good vacuum with the Park kit and I got MUCH more air out than I was able to with my other kits. Now they feel perfect. Now all I need is the Mineral Fluid kit for my wife’s bikes. (She’s an XT/XTR type of gal)
I prefer the Jagwire Elite bleeding kit to anything else in the market. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YYN9BSZ?pf_rd_r=ABT01C35MQ4KKJBM01TB&pf_rd_p=6fc81c8c-2a38-41c6-a68a-f78c79e7253f For Sram brakes My second choice would be Sram's own Professional bleeding kit that comes with 4 additional insert-olive combinations. Would be a tie with the Park Tool kit, if not for the latter's excessive cost.
I've just tried this and I'm having an issue removing air from the Rear Brake (It worked great on the front!). No more bubbles were being drawn up after lever squeeze/creating a vaccum repeat process. However after finishing the brake is still soft aka air in the system, any tips?
Thank you very much Truman, thank you very much Park Tool! Very well done. Personally to me this is the best video by far regarding this topic. It works! (And I sure want to purchase your new THH-1 and THT-1 as well ;-)
Why not bleed from calipers to levers. Wouldn't most air be at the top of the system already. Isn't that how the previous bleed worked? Would there be issue continuing to bleed from calipers?
Two reasons. 1. It's how SRAM say you should bleed them, their industrial design team and engineers know how to get the best result. 2. As the initial stage is to flush the old fluid from the system and most of the heat and contamination is concentrated at the calliper, it is important to remove as much of this old fluid as possible. As the bleeding edge tools acts as a tap it facilitates this part of the bleed.
Very good video, but you should speak about the stupid sticky sram pistons and how to deal with them so others don't have to bleed each break three times before understanding what is going on.
When I remove the lever syringe there is always a river of brake fluid that comes out of the lever bleed port. After that when I re-install the pads, wheel, and pull on the lever, the pads never engage. What am I doing wrong?
Why do you start with the contact adjust fully counter clockwise, doesn't this make it so you can only adjust the lever pull to contact the brakes later in the pull? If we would like to adjust it so the lever engages the brakes right away, wouldn't we have to rotate the contact adjust counter clockwise (of which we cant since it's already to it's max)? Thank you!
You want to bleed it in its most open position. With the most fluid allowed in the system. Then people can adjust the pad contact in to their preference from there.
This video shows clean fluid going in at the lever at the start. Then (it seems) you’re drawing the old dirty fluid back in and ejecting the fresh fluid back into the lever syringe. What am I missing?
I think, that small clip was there just to show what to expect if fluid was actually dirty. It was probably filmed not even attached to the bike. If fluid comes out dirty, you discard it and continue with fresh one. If bled frequently enough, fluid comes out clean every time.
