Thanks for the info that different clutches use different fluids. Mine, KTM SMT, uses mineral oil according to the manual. P.S. Why not just get two syringes; one to push, one to suck. That way you avoid the mess at the top.
@@slaverace1 I just use an old Turkey Baster to draw off the reservoir as I pump in fresh fluid from below. Spit it into a jar nearby so I don't have to leave the bike.
THANK YOU! Just saved me $105/hr of shop time. I've tried bleeding doing the pump, open, close, repeat method, but never get a better feeling clutch. My 2014 1290 (MINERAL OIL!) clutch gets spongy after 4 or 5 thousand miles.
Weird. A lot of ppl in the forums say the o ring in the slave cylinder can't handle brake fluid for long (despite the recommendation). The only thing i see with the mineral oil, is it is too thick to properly travel through the master cylinder (outside of viscosity, its not gonna do more damage than brake fluid on a seal). And once that seal breaks, you're looking at brakefluid leaking into your oil. I'd rather mineral oil mix in there than brake fluid any day. Magura recalled master brake cylinders and it sounds like they need to recall the clutch slave cylinders on the 2018 oem parts. I feel the only reason they haven't done it is because it won't get ppl hurt. Its just a garbage part with no aftermarket replacement. More $$ for magura
Thank you for the excellent video Jeff. One question, at the very end then you removed the bleeder screw that was attached to the syringe, you put your finger over the hole to prevent fluid from coming out, quickly unscrewed it, and then quickly screwed in the stock bleeder screw to finish the job. Is there another way to do this? I lose a lots of fluid this way. Before you remove the screw, could you zip tie the clutch lever so the line is closed, and then remove syringe bleeder screw and install stock bleeder screw? I was wondering if this would prevent fluid loss.
I also have this issue. I bought a 2017 300XC and there was only gunk left in the master reservoir. Tried to drain and bleed it but cant budge it. I’m guessing either the master or slave cylinders are maybe jammed?
In my little sight glass window of the front break master it appears to only be about 65% full of liquid and the rest of space above is an air bubble is this normal?
Hey Jeff, This may be an amateur question but I recently replaced the clutch plates on my Ktm which has the dds clutch in it. I back bled the clutch but it still seems to creep forward on me until the lever is pretty well all the way to the grip. Is it likely there’s still air in the line causing it to release a little late or should I be looking more at say the adjusting ring outside the bevel spring? Thanks in advance truly appreciate the videos. Cheers
Jeff........I have the same scenario, using a genuine clutch in a 2020 300 TPI.....I will be reverse bleeding the clutch line again in case I missed some air.....have you got any advise please?
Is this basically how you adjust your clutch? I have a 2015 ktm 300xc and my clutch grabs right away. How would I adjust that? Thanks for all your great videos Jeff.
Can these systems not be bled from the top down with a vacuum bleeder? This kit is nice but I have a Capri vacuum bleeder on the shelf so I've been wondering about that.
Hi Jeff. Thanks for the great video. I have a quick question. You say in your video rather to use DOT 4 as it’s better. Why’s that? I’m having an issue with my clutch that when i gets used a fair amount and assuming it heats up in the the tech slow stuff my leaver all of a sudden goes very soft and no clutch. Then I’ll have to leave it for a minute or so then back to normal. Clutch in not slipping an no grooves in the basket. It was bled 2 months back when i replaced all seals. I’m running 5.1 at the moment. Do you think there might be air in the system and/or should I switch to Dot 4? Would appreciate any guidance here please? Thanks.
5.1 was originally designed for street bike use and is not a high performance fluid. Every time your lever goes soft the fluid has boiled and is junk and should be replaced. Use Motul 660 slavensracing.com/shop/rbf660-pro-racing-brake-fluid-by-motul/ for better results.
The extra fitting has an o-ring on it that you can snug down. This prevents the syringe from pushing air through the system introduced through the threads of the fitting. It’s not absolutely necessary but does help. You can purge the air at that fitting by doing a normal lever pump bleed at the very end of the job.
Are those the new Flex bars that were covered in your $20K 300XC video? When will they be available? I here it's soon, I need new bars, but I'm waiting to see the new ones.
I've tried every way with mine it's not wanting to gravity bleed this way or anyway I rebuilt slave cylinder got new clutch line new master slave cylinder does this mean I need a new clutch plates or whole new slave cylinder please I'm tired I'm spending money I'm about to just buy recluse auto and say he'll with it
Jesse: I don't "gravity feed" it. I push the fluid from the bottom to the top. Sounds like you need to find help locally from someone who is experienced at bleeding clutches. You have purchased several parts that you probably did not need and NO, you do not need plates.
