Did this today on my 98 12 valve after a lift pump change. WORKED PERFECTLY and very EASILY. Truck is early 98. 3500 DRW, 5 speed,. 447,000 miles, on a beautiful oily 53 block. Truck screams. Will pull anything you hook it to. Great video.
I made the error of trying to drain scum out of the clear plastic primary fuel filter bowl on my 6BT Cummins dump truck. I was just doing a routine walk-around at a struck stop. Truck would not start, although it had been running fine. I knew I had introduced air into the line, but I did not think it would matter that much. Boy was I wrong! I cranked it for a half dozen cycles. No joy. I pushed that stupid primer button four thousand times. No fuel present. I opened the bleed valve on top of the secondary filter and did it again. Nothing. I finally gave up for the night, and left the truck at a truck stop. Next day I watched this video and acquired the various things to do it with. IT FRIGGING WORKED! Bled the system until no bubbles came out any more and the truck was like thanks pal I am ready to work again. I did not even bleed the individual injector lines. Thanks a ton, a ton, for this advice sir. Really helped this poor owner-operator.
I use a empty water bottle with a small hole in the bottom for my air nozzle instead of the rag to pressurize the tank. The top of the bottle seats nicely against the filler neck and i use a regulator set at 2 lbs.
If I have an electronic lift pump will this still work? I thought I had a lift pump fail but after a new one I’m convinced there’s air in getting in the system. Fuel pressure will get to 42-45psi but dies if you give it hard gas. And had gotten worse upon trying to figure it out. No visible fuel leak whatsoever
Are you just pulling the Allen bolt out of the front of the injection pump to bleed it or can you just do it through the top of the fuel bowl I'm getting no fuel to the injectors but I have fuel in the bowl my manual hand pump I do not think is working I just changed the fuel filter and took the preheater out forgot to fill the fuel filter all the way full of diesel cranked it over so does that mean I need to pull the Allen head bolt off the front of the p pump
Excellent video. Can this system work as a one-off bleeding exercise ? In other words bleed the full system from tank to injectors. Is there any reason why one couldn't pressurize the tank without bleeding the filter/separator banjo nut , but instead crack one injector nut at the time? The only problem I can see is that the tank has the return line. This would mean that air would be pushed inside this line, however, with a pair of hose pinch-off pliers you can seal the return line while you pressurise the tank. The solenoid would also have to be activated so as to open the flow to the pump. I am not sure of the workings of the BOSCH diesel pump but this should work unless the pump blocks the flow when it does not run. Any comments would be much appreciated
Inside the PPump it looks like a miniature engine with a piston for each injector line. The piston compresses the fuel to extreme pressures and then it all lets out at once when the piston clears the exit port. In a nutshell, there is no open path from the fuel tank all the way to the injectors.
super easy to push the primer on the hydroboost trucks, just use a broom handle. vacuum trucks like mine are a pain, but still doable. I like that filter setup
Very true. The primer does take forever if you're sucking air, especially if you've got 1/2" fuel line as that alone is an 150% increase in volume, plus the pre-screen which was empty. The video is 11 minutes long, and has most if not all the vital steps required to do it, plus a lot of chit-chat. So bleeding the entire system in under 10 minutes should be easily achievable. Plus the lift pump primer is a common leak point, so by avoiding the use of it, hopefully prolongs its life. And, yes, I really like that pre-filter setup. I installed it a while back when a buddy and I were playing around with our trucks trying to get the absolute maximum out of the stock mechanical life pump to try and compete with the newer electrical pumps. New lift pump springs, Increased fuel line size, larger pre-screen/filters, etc. We more than doubled the stock flow, so it was a bit of a success! Thank you again for watching, and being my one and only faithful commenter lol. I really appreciate it!
CumminsWorks I've been meaning to drill a hole and stick a long 18 wheeler valve stem into a spare fuel cap and use that for this purpose. that would definitely speed up the process. thanks for being the one and only RU-vid channel that posts useful and relevant information
CumminsWorks I can't take credit for that. credit goes to the mysterious and legendary Bill Flemming, know as illflem, or infidel. he's fallen off the face of the earth a few years ago.
Ahh yes, Mr.Illflem. He's the one I got the air hose trick from! haha He helped me with my first cummins issue, and it was because of him that I started 'foruming' a bit, and that of course led to truck mods, trial and error, and then helping others with there issues, which then led to youtube. When he left cumminsforum, he said that he was tired of the continues on slot of noob questions. Can't blame him he'd been going at it for over 10 years. I hope all is well for him, and he knows how much he helped so many people.
Great video, but I have one question and I may have missed it, but how did you get the fuel through to the front of the pump without pulling up the fuel shut off solenoid?
You're telling me! I must have got a bad batch of fuel, because it also mega-clogged the fuel filter to where fuel pressure was going down to single digits at WOT. After swapping filters and cleaning the pre-screen, pressures were back to normal. And yeah, it took a lot more to kill that thing than I expected.
If I don't have a petcock system to bleed air off your fuel injector pump like you have, on which number cylinder(s) injector line should I crack open? How are the cylinders numbered from radiator up front towards the firewall towards the back?
Never mind, problem resolved. I ended up rigging a sacrificial fuel tank cap to accept a hose barb to pressurize the fuel tank then went ahead and cracked open fuel filter banjo bolt and bled the fuel filter, closed it. Then cracked open the overflow valve, bled the line and closed it. Finally, cracked open a fuel injector nut, bled and closed that. Then bled two more fuel injector nuts. It took awhile (esp. rigging a hose barb and tubing to my compressor) and waiting for the wife to get off work to assist in turning the ignition key and hold her foot halfway down on the throttle for the injector bleeding portion but we finally got her done. I have the 7100 p-pump Cummins.
Great job boss. I'd love to see how you rigged up the fuel cap to accept a hose barb. Also, once you've got fuel to the OFV, just tighten her down, loosen any 3 injector nuts, then crank over the truck until fuel comes out, tighten them up and you're off to the races.
@@boobylinks Any reason why it is necessary to bleed in 3 steps? You bled from tank to fuel filet, then fuel filet to overflow and then the injector nuts. Could you have bypassed the first two steps and bled only one injector at the time?
@@brik32544 On the assumption that no stray air bubbles are trapped having to travel a long distance or pass through a constriction from it's location in the fuel system to a singular bleed point.
You only addressed bleeding up to your filter. If your injection pump has air then once you have bleed the air out of the system up to your filter you then should loosen the bleeder on the Injection pump line to rid that portion of the system of any air. When you don't have bubbles and spurting and the overflow valve is squeaking, then you have bled that portion of the system. Suggestion, show under the truck your line hook up and the like when doing those kinds of changes/upgrades. Just saying yeah we are doing this is only partially helpful. I believe you are going to have some leakage on your fuel lines with time as the braided stainless line does not shrink fit onto the fittings like the hard plastic lines that were on the truck. (I presume they are hard plastic because of the manner you mentioned on removing them.) Heating the outer sleeve which is a fuel and oil resistant rubber won't do much to shrink the line. Odds are your new lines are Teflon tubing followed by the stainless mesh and then the rubber out cladding/protective shielding. Your Teflon inner layer may be heat shrinkable but the stainless braided mesh is not going to tighten up nor would that outer rubber contract as well. If it does, then cool... Otherwise you are running the risk of your lines getting pulled off or leaking later. I recommend you install some hose clamps on those connections. So, did you just put a barbed connector in-between your lines out of the fuel tank to join the factory lines to the tank? You are kind of quiet on what you did for those rusty fittings... Any suggestions on where to get your handy fuel petcock for bleeding? Looks like you re-used the plastic line from your old fuel lines, is that correct? Good video, they get easier the more you make... Sometimes having some cue cards to keep you on track for the points you want to touch on help...just a list of those things can help you remember while the camera is rolling. Good editing on the split screen, very helpful to see that without having to switch camera feeds. You may want to consider pulling that fuel tank and giving it a very good interior cleaning and you may need to consider a fuel tank liner as that much debris is not good. Was it algae growth, that can clog fuel filter screens and filters, definitely want to keep an eye on that. Old fuel can get those growths really bad. Definitely use a fuel stabilizer when fueling up to prevent that growth in case the truck sits for a while. In winter it is always a good idea to use an anti-gel additive, make that required, if you are in a cold climate or freezing weather. David
Yes, after posting the video I realized that I only bled up to the filter. Typically, if you get fuel to the filter, it will still start, it may take 5-10 seconds of cranking first is all. I do hope to make a part two covering that though, plus give instructions on how to bleeding the injector lines if they're air-locked. I'd love to show you all the changes to my fuel system, but I always struggle with making the videos to long, so I tried to show only the important bits, if you're interested in my fuel system modifications, than I can try to make a video covering them all. My old fuel lines were primarily steel, which were all either kinked by the PO or rusted. So I replaced everything with Trident A1 15 Marine grade fuel line. tridentmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/365-A1-15-FUEL-HOSE-Specification-Sheet.pdf On the old rusty fittings, there isn't a stock steel fitting left, it's all been replaced. The petcock is just a M18 to 1/8" npt bung in the front of the IP, then some marine fuel line, then another barb going into a small cylinder with a couple needle valves on the top. One goes to the gauge, the other is my bleed petcock. I don't have a part number for the cylinder as it came off the tire-changer when I replumbed it. And I don't think it was factory on that either, hence I removed it. Same goes for the plastic line, it probably isn't rated for diesel, but I doubt that's a problem due to only having diesel in it a couple minutes a year. Plus if it starts leaking it's not a live or death crisis. Thanks! Yes it's getting easier, I'm not a camera person. The reason I started these videos was because I was very socially awkward, so I figured if I practice talking to a camera instead, practice makes perfect... Good tip on the cards, I'll have to do that. It was rust. I believe I got a bad batch of fuel as it clogged the fuel filter up at the same time. I just had the tank out last year and it was super clean. Also having the sump helps let all the crap get caught in the fuel strainer. You'd be surprised what all it catches after installing a sump haha.
Sounds like you've got a leak in the fuel return line going from the injection pump back to the tank. With the engine not running, it allows the fuel to drain back into the tank after an extended period. There's a short section of rubber line that likes to dry rot that may be your culprit. It's the red one in this picture. s20.postimg.org/4meh3r33h/screenshot_1.png It's kinda hard to see, and harder to get a decent video of, but I may see what I can do. Life is kinda limiting my video time here recently, but I hope to be able to go at it again in a couple weeks.
@@CumminsWorks I inherited a 1996 Beaver Monterey RV with a Cummins diesel engine from my Aunt who passed away and apparently hasn't been started in almost 18 months. I changed the 2 chassis batteries and a friend suggested I "bleed" fuel filter. I was a UDT frogman in the Navy so I'm really good at blowing stuff up but have little or no mechanical skills. Can you help me? I need to drive the RV down to Florida where I live from Virginia. Any tips on how to proceed would be GREATLY appreciated.
The front port that the bleeder is hooked into goes into the fuel gallery in the pump. It literally the same as teeing them into the input line going into the pump, except because it's in the pump and a higher point in the fuel system, it does a better job of bleeding the air.
Bro I know it was for demonstration purposes. But that was 100% dumb. If you run a Cummins out of diesel like that. Those p pumps are cooled by diesel. Just like the vp44 on the 24 valves. Running them out of diesel causes ware and tare ont the pump itself. So when you do that. Especially if more than once your just begging for a failure down the road with those 12v melt downs are a problem. But hey you do you brotha. Just some advise.
Can I do this with a 2001 Dodge 2500 with electric fuel pump? It seems to be locked up can't get it pressured up and it sounds like fuel pump is running.
You should be able to yes, but with the electric fuel pump it's typically easier to just bump the starter and then let the pump run, that will prime the system. If you're having problems with it bleeding, crack a low-pressure fuel line open and then let the pump run. Careful though, it may try to squirt all over the place, so be ready.
I've been having a series of problems with my 96. It has an in tank lift pump but it seems like it has the mechanical one as well. Its my crew bus and my boss kinda threw it to me to repair. I am not a mechanic but after working on logging equipment cars and trucks gas and diesel alike, not to mention my own tons of junk that I breathe life into, ive surpassed the shadetree backyard mechanic status. However, this damn cummins has me chasing my tail. Its hard to start after sitting for a couple days and sometimes it will drain half the filter dry after initial startup, then I have to prime the Damn thing up. Ive pushed the manual pump until I felt like I had tendonitis but it never does what I want it to. Perhaps it takes a lot more pumps than I think it should or it cannot pull fuel threw the electric pump. Once started its drivable, but it's such a turd it can't get out of its own way. Any more than quarter throttle and it falls on its face. It will eventually reach highway speeds but it takes about 13 years to accomplish the daunting task of achieving 60 mph. It looks like it may have a screen in the manual pumps fuel outlet, but up until now I was convinced that since I could not hear the electric pump come on with the key, that it was Shithouse. But I had no idea that you need to bump the starter to get a 25 second cycle n the pump. I will test that this morning and hopefully get to the next big step. If I were poncho all the time it will be a bad relay or connection but I am the kind of guy that constantly supports and demonstrates Murphy's law on a unfortunately daily basis.
Is this a Dodge Ram? the 96's should not have an in-tank pump. The V10's had one, and the newer 24V's had them, but not the 12V, so maybe it's someones hack-job. What tells you there's pump in the tank? If it does indeed have an in-tank pump, I would get rid of it and replace it with a factory fuel module, or sump. Off the bat it sounds like your sucking air. Have you deleted the fuel heater yet? Might give that a shot. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8kVsm4dgAtw.html
Here's a video on I made on changing the fuel filter, maybe it'll help with your problem. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tf-s0ivS7SQ.html If not, I'm happy to help the best I can, but I'll need some more information on the truck, and what it's doing/not doing. Best of luck!
@@CumminsWorks There is an air vent at the top of the tank. What you did was make some air bubbles in a bottle, that did not match the amount of air you pumped in. Then you cranked the engine over and over again until it coughed. That is what I saw.
