yes on windings, chaoli arms are cheap and super high in tpa (again reference other video), and I use the endbell that fits the can I'm using. Usually just whatever was stock. No reason to replace really.
I personally would keep both the same. Use the King arms motor, shortstroke the sector 3 teeth, and lipo should get you around that rof if you shim everything well.
free spin the motor you made and a properly working one to make sure if it's turning in the wrong direction or not. If that doesn't work you could have a problem with either brush contact or possibly your armature has shed a winding.
turns per armature. It's the count of motor wire on the armature. Reference my other video about chaoli vs. matrix armature. Neo can refers to neodymium magnets on the motor and end bell is the bottom part of the motor.
ideally you want some nice 16g wiring to make sure you're giving your system enough power but low resistance wiring isn't what makes the gun "lipo ready". Just make sure all of your bases are covered like shimming and aoe.
High count of windings, around 22. combine this with Neodymium magnets and you have hell-alot of torque. If you want speed, swap the windings to around 10-15 rounds.
you can but just avoid ics 3000 cans. I find that matrix motor cans work the best but people make them out of anything. I usually use the brushes that come with the can but assuming the chaoli ones fit, those should be a better fit to the armature.
It's for any application that needs massive amounts of torque. DSGs, high power springs etc. It is not an end all motor though. Just because you can make one doesn't always mean you should use it. I will be making a video explaining this.
Great video, thanks for the info but I am having trouble finding the parts. If you don't mind telling we where I can find these parts that would help a lot. I am pulling a Prometheus m170 with a JG blue and its having a hard time. I only use simi for this gun. Thanks
Im sorry for all the questions, but i also have an ics turbo 3000 motor, should i use that instead of the king arms one or should i keep that one as a good backup if any of my other motors fail?
I thought JG blues were 28tpa. also, use a riot pinion on that o-type =D, just make sure you lube it first. (heh) no seriously, I almost esploded my pinion puller trying to get that thing on.
Again, sorry for all the questions, but what piston would u recomend? I was opting for an shs 7 metal teeth piston and swiss cheesing it, and or do u think i should go for full metal rack piston?
Sorry to ask, but I have a few questions. I know that the can of the chaoli is usually gray but what color is the endbell and the motor tower usually? Also, what type of pinion do they use D or O, I see in this video it has an O-type but I think I have seen it with a D-type as well. On another note, would a Classic Army high torque armature work as well? It appears to have a rather high TPA based on what I can tell. I am talking about the CA with the red sticker and red endbell. If you can answer any of these, thank you, and thank you for making informative tech videos.
chaolis are usually a black endbell i think. They come in both D and O but O is easier to find I think. A CA high torque arm is actually a little big more torque than the chaoli but they're even slower.
valleyriverarms Thanks, I guess that I might use my CA armature then, if it is for sure the red one that has that much torque because I do not want to go looking for a Chaoli. I'm not worried too much about how slow it is (nor should anyone that uses a frankentorque) so the extra TPA and efficiency may help me a bit, and make the motor last longer on a 14.8v, but I still expect to have to clean it a lot as I hear the brushes get destroyed by that kind of voltage.
Do you think the motor will hold up ok though since it is so slow it'll produce much less heat than say even a JG blue. I understand that the brushes will wear no matter what though and I might replace them with some copper ones or something rather than the typical graphite stuff.
Thank You For The Feedback,I'm Thinking at This Point i'll Go With The Gen2 Cyclone 14's With Either an A2 OR ZCI HT as My Baseline? Now To Make That Call? Looking For Reliable 50+ Rps
I'm in the process of making one of these motors (matrix 3000 can) and would like to know if I used it with 13:1 gears, will it give more rps than a Lonex A1?
I was wondering, i have a king arms motor (higher rof) and im using it as my main motor, but its magnets are pretty weak, and i have an agm motor (slower rof), and i use that as my back up motor, and its magnets are pretty strong, so do u think i should take the can of the agm and put that on my king arms motor to increase the torque? Also, im trying to make my gun shoot 30bps with a big 11.1 lipo with around 350-370fps, any suggestions on how to do that without having to change the gear set? I
o pinions are press fitted on the shaft and D dype pinions have a slot in the O. You look down at your motor and see if the motor shaft is circular or if you see the slot there. TPA is turns per armature.
So basically Frankentorque is a mix between torque motor and high speed motor? I have the G&P m120 high speed motor now, what other motor I need to build FT motor?
More of a high-torque motor on steroids. You sacrifice speed for even more torque - the higher the TPA, the higher the torque and the lower the speed. The key is the neodymium magnet can, which typically comes with motors sold as high-torque motors, and a cheaper motor with a high TPA (turns per armature) count.
I have tried 3 different( 1 echo one, 2 chaoli branded) chaoli armatures in a Lonex A1 can, and my results have been very poor. I have a 40 rps SSG build running perfectly on another Lonex A1, but the trigger response isn't quite there, and I usually just use semi only, would it be worth my money to just get a higher TPA arm off of Brill and a better neo can? Possibly like a Matrix 3000 mentioned in the video and a 22 tpa arm. Sorry for the wall of text.
the echo 1 and chaoli stuff didnt have good trigger response? doesn't sound right... You could try another can but your trigger response should be the only thing that works really well with that combo.
Yeah the motor wound up like a ferrous motor would, I will try a different battery, maybe that was the problem. The Stock A1 has no motor wind up just a little bit of a laggy trigger. Its a V3 gearbox and I have an active breaking mosfet. Thanks for the help.
I finally fixed my problem, I plugged in my 11.1, cleaned and re-shimmed the armature in the can so the brushes made full contact, now I have an amazing instant trigger response. In my frustration I also flat-hopped my gun so its quite a beast now. Thanks for your help!
Great Video,Ok Racking My Brain Getting as Much Info as I Can For My First DSG Build,I Have an Almost New Shs HT,2 chaoli motors,So That Can,Chaoli Armature With an Epoxied Siegetek Pinion.Sound efficient For Either The 10:44 or 14:09 Sets? tu
Hi. I have a question. When you put back the end bell those 2 metal piece that bend inward to hold the end bell in place is that a must? Or i can just put in the end bell without bending those 2 metal tab.
Where u get cheap matrix 3k motors? Place I usually buy matrix crap from sells them for like 45 bucks. Unless thats considered cheap? If u only trying to get magnets from the 3k is there anyway to just buy the magnets? Neos are not that expensive. I buy they all the time for miniatures but the shape here is important.
Yeah I mean 45 is the normal retail price. I don't know where you would buy the magnets shaped like this just by themselves. Boneyard sales are the best place to find them tbh.
www.rare-earth-magnets.com/arc-magnets Like these are super close to the shape that are in the motors but again they have to be the RIGHT shape not close to the shape. U by anychance know the specs of the shapes found in the motor?
DrDuck7700 Firestorm Systems (I think that's what their name is/was) in the UK used to sell really strong neo-magnets made specially for AEG motors. I don't think they do anymore but not too sure.
What other armatures do you recommend for a frankentorque build? Since I have an SHS HT motor, I'm considering on either putting a G&G gray so would that work?
What is TPA? Is the choali armature good? I find that odd since thy are found in every crap clone lol. I have a Jg red which I bought but never used didn't want it in that m4 would it be better then a frankentorque motor made from a matrix can and choali armature? Thanks
reference my video about 10:1 gears and frankentorques. They have their place but are not the end all motor. TPA is chaoli motors is like 32 or something like that. I forget exactly. The JG red is a more balanced motor and will most likely give you better rof results.
What do you use to keep the pinion I'm place without it coming of the shaft when running or adjusting motor height. for D Type more likely and O Type pinions
Do you think I could have a good result using a stock A&K armature and a G&P M180 can? I really want a great semi response (already have it precocked) and a slow full auto ROF
I built a frankentorque motor using a jg blue can and a chaoli 32 TPA armature. I also had that same armature in a lonex spec can and whenever I twist the pinion gear it, its kinda easy to turn and doesn't seem that torquey. I know that twisting the pinion gear isn't a scientific way to judge torque but this seems odd. Any suggestions or help?
+Savages Speedsoft Earbuds, headsets, speakers... They're neodinum I'm pretty sure and used in pretty much anything that has magnets so they should be cheap.
