Man I know this was years ago but, recently I just upgraded into a 18:1 gear ratio (no built in delayers) and now the nozzle isn't fully retracting or pulling back which makes my unit not shoot anything since it doesn't load the bbs, would a delayer chip be a solution? Also I noticed after the upgrade that the piston is pulled slightly back (is it called overspin?) After every shot.
Great video👏 Question: Can i short stroke a stock sector gear? How many teeth should i cut? Thanks more power My set up: -stock gears -M135 spring -11.1v batt -Shs high torque motor
depends how much power you're trying to drop. You can definitely SS a stock gear. Assuming you're trying to get into the 400fps range I would cut 3 to start and see where that puts you
I'm not sure which generation those are but to me that looks like cast aluminum it's more of a silver color I mean it might be black but if you actually look at an shs gear I have multiple sets of them they are just straight up black there is no gold tip extension and the ones that have her steel very solid and I put in a s*** ton of abuse through these things it's all about quality control you know there's four different generations so I don't know how old this video is but I've never had any issue you know I have a very high speed SSG and I've got a very high FPS DMR that gets ran very hard and I haven't had a problem it's probably just a bad batch if that was the case I would either take it back to the shop or I would try to get in contact with them directly.
I have a cybergun colt m4 keymod. I want to upgrade the spring to a m190 3.5j spring. I'm just woried if I need a better motor or better gears or something. I want it to be a dmr and wouldn't need a high rate of fire, so are the other internals good enough?
You’re gonna need a very high torque motor, higher gear ratio, reinforced gearbox shell, full steel rack piston, a perfect air seal set up, the hardest hop rubber you can find, mosfet and an 11.1 20c lips just to pull that beast of a spring
Depends on the specific model of gun. Hard to say without a link. Generally I'll recommend new gears, reshim, AOE correction, new piston and head(depends on stock part), new spring guide if its not steel. Motor might be fine if its got neodymium magnets but a higher torque motor will help with power consumption. Might need a new wiring assembly if you don't have a mosfet or something similar. Battery needs to be the biggest 11.1 you can fit in there though.
I have one, its a pain in the ass to take apart, especially when shimming and disassembling and reassembling 30 times to make sure the motor sits correctly with every shim adjustment. I wish the motor had a cage like some m4s and aks to test it easier. Still the full metal parts make it stand out and it looks awesome. My extension stock was also broken so I just made my own and it work well. Another thing is that it came with the blowback attachment broken so its no big deal. I can feel the real piston firing inside so a mock one is meh. Its awesome 😎,but for sure a pita to work on.
Feels good to have a Staccato P Hi-Capa 4.3. All the benfits of the platform and based on a real duty pistol. Add in a thread adapter and a 5.1 barrel and it has 5.1 power as well
I purchased a Thor Rapid phantom. I found a handful of q/c issues and fit and finish problems. I'm not sure if the hop up sticking inside the outer barrel caused my issue or if the 249 style of the dx V2 gear box is just prone to the bevel gear axle snapping. Either way I had three games ( 5k rounds through it ) on it and the semi never really worked so I used it like a m249 . So being that it was 20 days out of warranty evike " can't " help me 🖕. What parts and from what companies would you suggest to help upgrade the gear box? I'm not looking dump a bit load of money into this being it's less than 4 months old.
the G&P spur axles were always the weak point for me. Sorry you had that experience man. I haven't checked on this account in years but if you still care, unfortunately the G&P quality really took a dive over the last couple years. You might be able to salvage it with a new gearset and potentially a stiffer bucking. Not sure if the issue you're describing was caused by a compression jam or something but its a place to start.
@@valleyriverarms I've been messing with different set ups and found luck with a set of shs 18:1 gears , solid bushings, the stock piston and cylinder set. I kept the g&p 140 motor cus it's a beast . After hand finishing all the parts like the hop and outer barrel it seems to work well. I think the main issue was due to feeding because the hop wouldn't " float " in the outer barrel and it caused a jam while doing 40-ish rps( 11.1 on the m140 go brrt ) . Either way I learned a bit and got it happy in the end of the day.
It used to be quite good. Recently they really fumbled the bag with the i5 gearbox and now both their internals and externals aren't as good and especially not for the money. The market has changed a lot since I made these videos. I'll say CYMA, VFC, Specna, G&G, Krytac, KWA, King Arms are all doing great things nowadays
I have an extra shs torque motor that needs tear down what could I do with it I have some other motors kicking around that have higher torque spec and slightly higher speed could I mess around by changing armatures? Thoughts comments please thanks.
happened to a pair of 16:1's of mine about same amount of teeth also, it happened to me because my ARL spring was dead when i opened the gearbox. guess it spun back when i was semi spamming, perhaps its a problem with the arl slipping?
right around deez. if you pair the wires right it'll work but also this is less of a relevant video now because computerized mosfets or completed mosfets with trigger contacts are a big thing now.
Yes (as long as it's needed: if it has a gap between the gear shaft and the gearbox shell). The tappet plate will fit "behind" the delayer chip/post, which means it lays under the top shims.
My cyma aks74un will have the seletor on semi, but when i pull the trigger halfway it shoots full auto. When i pull the trigger the full way it does semi. Ive added material to the moving part of the trigger (idk if its called a shuttle or a trolley) so it has material to interact with the cutoff lever
When one changes a spring to a Prometheus 135 does anything else need to be upgraded along with it? Changed my spring and now my gun only shoots for a very short time and just shuts off it seems. When this starts to happen my semi shuts down and then my full auto can be used but only shoots semi and then just shuts down completely. Is it the battery or the motor. The motor is an 18000 I believe in a cm16 SRXL. THANKS
Thank You for this video, I think the problem I had was the trigger switch, the 2 thin metal plates, I did what you recommended and my semiauto function works like brand new, Thank a lot man.
