How to build a Smart Cradle 

While watching the cradle build, I had one of those light bulb ideas that may be of use. Make all the cradles the same size (big enough for the largest tool you will use, and build tool specific bases that will slip into the cradles. This may not work in all instances but it could limit the number of cradles you need to haul around and make storing the tools in the trailer easier. Thanks for all your videos. GR

Your video is so detailed that I wouldn't even have to buy plans to get it done. I bought them nonetheless (as well as the smart bench), to reward the continuous developpement for such useful tools as well as your generosity and the minitious descriptions in your videos. That will help for sure.

I really love the "what I would do different if I did again . As a hobby woodworker that likes to do 'one off projects, and small 'production runs it helps to hear the reason for those decisions. At least it helps this viewer!! :-)

Okay, it was worth the $5.00. Thanks for another great video companion to your plans.

Thank you for sharing this video. Your bench and cradles are brilliant ideas. Hope to duplicate some of them myself for my shop.

These cradles are a great idea. Now a good follow up would be to make a wall rack to place them when not in use. Not sure they may would work well in your situation storing them in a trailer. Bouncing down the road would likely end up slowly shaking them apart. But those of us in garage/ basement shops would be a great idea for a storage option.

I like the idea of making the Smart Kradle's depth the same as the workbench then use spacers to bring shallow tools to the height of the top. You may have to store the standard Kradle and spacers that work for several different shallow tools.

Cool concept. I can envision a series of wall mounts for too storage in the shop. Thanks Ron.

Ron, thanks for the video. I waited until you released your video before cutting out my pieces. I purchased the plans for the Dewalt Table saw (corded), as I mentioned in an email last week. I did proceed to draw out the dimensions, and I agree that metrics are easier to work with. I am grateful for the time you took to create the video as it helped me to anticipate any problems that might have come up. One of which is that I’m concerned about the height of the table, but you made me aware that I can cut the horizontal of the side pieces after fitting the saw onto the cradle. I purchased the screws online but not the specific counter sink...I will practice with a Forster bit on scrap wood to determine if that is a possible alternative. I recently purchased a Grizzly bench top bandsaw for which a cradle will be made! Thanks! Scott in Pa.

Glad you prefer metric. I n Australia we converted to metric in 1966, but some dinosaurs still use imperial.!

Had the original Paulk Bench 2’x8’ pairs but wanted to upgrade for compactness and increased efficiency - so Just finishing my PSS & PSB (changed mid build, had just cut my lightweight plywood to size for the older plans when you released the PSS & PSB plans, so I recut and went with the newer designs - also using the Parf 2 for the holes on the top and extensions) , then built 3 of the Paulk Smart Benches (2 additional; one for my brother and one for my 82 yo father who’s still woodworking strong) built the smart crosscut, also the Smart Cart, and have 2 router tops (one uses an Incra Master lift 2, and the other I have the new Triton Oscillating spindle sander w/ a router base plate - but love the cradle idea - have a fixed shop - but a lot duplicated in portable bench top tools too, so I can do a lot on site when needed - the cradles w/ the PSS is a game changer for me - Thanks Ron for your ongoing efforts!!

I need to start watching the videos when they post. Second video I watched today where the product being reviewed is already out of stock. Great video!

as a rule, your cradle has to be as deep as the bench so the "cantilever torque" can resolve into tension at your top cradle connection into the bench top and compression at your bottom cradle connection into the bench bottom. I was cringing when you were cutting it short of the table depth but you eventually realized your error. Min depth to a cradle should be the depth of your bench so your idea of a general cradle with buildup inside the cradle is the way to go. Then make purpose tool cradles if they need to be deeper. Mine will have a french cleat at the bottom cradle connection sitting on the vertical leg of the bench side cutouts but it obviously works without it. Thanks for the plans and video

Great video Ron! If you build several specific tool cradles you may want to build a tool cradle/cart for storage in the trailer or workshop when not using each one or saving space on the workbench. Just a thought for a future project and video!

Great Job RUN Looks Really Good Thanks...👍📐🔨

I’d make em all deep/universal.That space under (or beside) a tool if you need to jack it up would be a good place for wrenches or other hand tools, or blades or clamps...A piece of 1/8” ply or even HPL could close off the lower hole if u wanted to use it for storage.

I appreciate the honesty as you go along and realize your mistakes and how you would improve your work.

Before I moved and had the work bench I always wanted to make a huge dove tail at the end of the bench. Think 2 French cleats at 45 degree angles. Slide straight up to remove and slide down to install.

Great video Ron. Have only recently found your videos and have found them great. I expect I will see this somewhere else but it looked like the this was connected only using two hole in the bench. What am I missing? It doesn’t seem like it would be strong enough. Being from Australia. I love that you use metric. Love it.

I'm not sure if it was intentional or not, but the 32 mm system actually works well mentally for people who work with inches if you think about it. Consider that IF 1 mm = 1 inch, the 32 mm system is almost like most framing, (96mm =96 inches, 32mm = 32 inches, etc), a very convenient way to think about it :)

Great videos, did you work with fast cap on their "flex bench"? Seems very similar...

Hello Ron, was curious if you have planed on your board-schedule on the wall to talk about the trailer it self? The brand, cost, why that one in particular, experience so far with it etc. Or have I missed that somewhere although I do follow your channel. As always great work and THANKS for sharing all of this priceless knowledge with us. 👽

That Fastcap tape has 32mm pips on the tape so you won't have to use a calculator to round up. It is a great tape. You should give a lesson on measurement. My battle is with parallax error. I am after ways to NOT measure. Some lessons from an experienced finish carpenter wouldn't go amiss.

Another great solution Ron. Can I ask what fixings you use to screw into the sides, into the end grain of the base and front plywood? It looks like a very large head for normal screws.

Quick thought Ron; When I cut the boards on the Kapex, I score the top of the board then bring the saw all the way out and down, and cut through the board. Seems to me you get the same result as flipping the board. Very small detail, but time is money!

I wonder if you considered flipping your side pieces over and cleaning up the first one with a flush trim bit after the fact??

Ron did you ever design a cradle for the miter saw to work on the smart workbench? I don’t want to loose workbench surface for one.

Great video Ron! I have one question, you remove excess material from the bottom and sides but not the back, how come?

Hi Ron , I built the smart bench a while ago and am looking to do the cradle for the table saw. Quick question when looking at the plans the height you got is the same as the tool. Then it looks like you put some 18mm feet underneath the tool to negate for the top which then connects to smart bench. Is this right? Thanks, Joel.

I'm interested in the plans for the smart cradle and the PSBB. Question, I have a heavy table saw as well ~80lbs. Would the bench/cradle handle that weight without tipping over without any kind of counterweight? Thanks for the content, cant wait to build the bench.

That’s a lot of work to only be supported by two pins. Why not at least 4? I got that two are “plenty strong enough”, but over time and use ‘wood-against-wood’ are going to cause at least a few thousandths of crushed wood fibers.

Run that by me again Stanley you lost me after bout 5 seconds lol

I just built this cradle for my PSB ( the 3 x 6 size) and I'm using the dewalt cordless table saw same as you. Unfortunately I'm a little disappointed that when I want to rip something down like a half sheet of plywood it will tip my table over no problem. Any solution to this? Thanks!

Thanks for the great video. I just bought your plans and am starting soon! What is the red hand tool you use at the 20 minute mark?

I built your original table, that uses the hinges as keys to set the folding legs/horses in place. Did you devise a table top lockdown system along the way that I missed? If I hung one of these cradles off the side of my smart work table, I feel it might tip up from the legs.

Why not add a removable, adjustable leg, with a gusset or brace for rigidity, under the front center of the cradle with a locking caster. That way you would have stability with no possible deflection and it would also allow for uneven floors without sacrificing portability. I.e. lock it in place while you are working and flick the caster unlock when you need to roll.

Off topic: do you still use the Dewalt Mobile lock? Just saw your video on it and it was a few years ago.

Is there a good reason that rounding up to the next multiple of 96mm is needed when determining how wide the unit should be? Why couldn't you just leave it at 4.2 x 96mm? I watched the whole video to see if there was a good reason, and never saw anything that would indicate that it's necessary. In fact, since you eventually add cleats to keep the tool centered, wouldn't making it in the actual tool width preclude the need for the cleats?

What just occurred to me was a cradle style platform that would provide additional real estate for use when thickness planing! I just now had this idea so it's far from a developed plan.

What industry standard are you talking about with the 96mm?

what kind of screws are you using?

The back was not tall enough originally (118mm) so you added additional height. So what is the minimum height (???mm) for the back to work with the benches. Thanks

I love your work but you make me nervous. As a retired machinist the long sleeves or any bulky outfit is a NO NO around moving tools .

I am semi-retired with state current contractor licenses from Arizona to Florida and have hundred of millions of dollars in projects over the past several decades. I have never, not once, had a set of plans that were metric. I understand that metric is easier to do the math, but I refuse to convert plans drawn by architects from feet and inches to metric; that would be ridiculous. in the mainstream. All AIA documents refer to measurements done in feet and inches, weight in pounds, and volume in cubic yards, etcetera. Walk into any supplier and try to order a few 50.8 x 101.6 instead of 2 by 4's. On and on I could go. Jimmy Carter tried to convert miles per hour into kilometers per hour; that lasted about as long as his re-election did. I like your videos for ideas.

It would be helpful to first show or illustrations how the cradle functions in use before getting into dimensions. First establish what it is and does. Watching someone do math is not engaging

Ok great but what does it do. Not included in a 30 minute video

You use the word "smart" a lot for a dopey surfer guy who just drills way too many random holes in things. No part of that structure needs an entire box of screws planted in it.