The Paulk Smart Revolution has made it to the Cross Cut. Much simpler to make, to use, and helps out in the shop even when cross-cutting isn't on the menu. PSCC Plans stores.modular... thesmartwoodsh...
Please make a small project (a cabinet with a back maybe?) from start to finish using the new "Smart" system, including the PSCC. I'd just like to see the flow from one task to another on how it all works together. I bought my first UWB plan from you in Jan 2012 and have enjoyed watching all your videos! Thanks for all you do, Ron!
Thanks Ron, This design solves so many issues when working with wider and longer sheets of material. I wish TSO would let us preorder and pay for the smart dog connect items so they can better plan on production numbers, this would solve for us to not worry about them selling out like last time and possibly having to wait for another production order. Dave Greensides
Accuracy- this depends on your sliding clamps being in exactly the same place sideways in the T slot. Good luck with that, especially after an amount of use. And it increases for smaller lengths of material, of course. Also, wood moves over time, and you are relying on the fence not bowing, as the reference point moves every time you move the clamp guides. i.e. you cannot zero it. But then, you will have a new version in a couple of months...
Nice! Replace the sliding fence portion with one (or more) that you fix in the dog holes - then you can even move it to the other side of the saw to support a long piece better when you cut off something small.
Ron, curious why you didnt use bench dogs for aligning the workpiece like you use for aligning the track. Instead of needing the squaring blocks in the t-slot, you could put the bench dogs anywhere in line. And to prevent the stop from bumping into the dogs, make them flip stops just like on the smart station. The t track is just behind the parf holes used for squaring and you can slide the flip stop anywhere along the jig behind the dogs. And easily flip them out of the way when you need to square one end of the board, then flip out the stop and make your dimensioned cut. With fixed stops, you need to move them to make a cut anything longer than where the stop is. the beauty with flip stops, you can leave them while you make other cuts. This also eliminates any error when making the track. If your parf holes are not perfectly parallel with the t-slot, then the jig would not create square cuts. Since the holes are all already square, then the dogs automatically make square cuts
Ron long time subscriber, I have all of your plans great system. Please design a ripping system similar to the PSCC for those of us that just cant swing a set of TSO parallel guides and keep the great benches,accessory and videos coming Thanks.
I really like the simplicity and accuracy of your bench designs and my paulk bench has saved me a lot of time and made many jobs easier. I just wondered if you have seen the rail dogs to attach the rail straight to the dogs as this might work slightly better than the ujk clips?
Hi Ron It´s a perfect evolution of the cutting jig. But i want to know how to cut shorter or thinner stipes than the width of the guide rail. Because there is no support of the 90 degree angle for these parts. Warm regards from Germany.
Hi Ron, I purchased these plans along with those for the Smart Bench. Can you please provide some tips for cutting the 8 mm x 10 mm hardwood splines? I was thinking of ripping a 10 mm strip off of the 25 mm x 25 mm then ripping that down to 8 mm; but, I've never worked with cutting anything so narrow. TIA
Yet another great idea Ron. Been watching your videos for years and incorporating lots into my garage hobbyist shop. I am curious about the parf dogs, though. Do you use the 30mm collars? Looked like they were on in the video but couldn't tell. If the parf dogs, that are used for squaring the track, are anchored at different heights (the thickness of the PSCC), then the track would butt against the collar on the PSCC and against the 20mm shaft at the far end. Or did I miss something?
With your festool tracks and the squaring accessories available for them, some of which you own, I just don't see how this is an added benefit without being redundant.
In my opinion, it provides repeatability of your cross cuts without having to measure and pencil the length every piece you want to be the same length. How much time it saves you depends on how many pieces of the same length you need.
@@thepaintprofessor You are right, but beyond the 50 in the parallel guide won’t help. Using the terms crosscut and rip cut for plywood is a bit of a misnomer, but I’ll use it anyway to illustrate. Let’Ùs say you need to cut 60in pieces that are 24 in wide, Ron’s tool would be helpful.
I have not used it. Woodpecker makes great stuff, but when it comes to the accuracy of the 20mm holes, I like the multistep process of Parf. I don't think stepping off the small woodpecker grid will be as precise. Others who have the WP jig can chime in as my thoughts are from arms-length, not personal experience.
Would it be possible to crosscut a sheet that's wider than the bench using this system in combination with some of your other fixtures, or would the SCC be a better choice if one was regularly doing that?
This question is completely off topic. How do you manage to get your tool trailer parked in your shop/garage with the tongue that close to the front wall?
How do you square the leading edge of a sheet with this setup? Assuming you can cut a piece long, flip it and cut to length so both crosscuts are referenced off of stops?
Hi Rob, I have made at least 6 videos this year covering the plywood I now use. Here is a link to just one of them:ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-waTBdo1cOYk.html 😎🤙
At least its in mm. A better question is: why is the industry (particularly the Europeans, Chinese and Japanese) still supporting things like 1/4 and 1/2 inch shanks? Its slowly changing, but its much easier to do the math on say a 10mm OD template guide with a 6 mm bit, than one in inches.
Hey, Bill. I don't know if you have already gotten your answer to the question above, but the Parf MK2 Guide System does have a means for making 64mm hole spacing (I think). I haven't performed the following method yet myself, but I do have a need for 64mm spaced holes for an upcoming project, and therefore I have contemplated how it could be done and have made some rough sketches of the layout to achieve this. The Parf Sticks have 10 reference holes that are used to make dogholes which are 96mm on center apart from each other. There are also three reference holes that can be used to make dogholes that are 32mm on center apart from those 96mm reference points. I believe that if you started out by making the 3mm drill holes using the 96mm spaced holes, then you can go back and use those 3mm holes as references and make the 32mm offset drill holes in both directions. 96mm minus 32mm = 64mm, and 96mm plus 32mm = 128mm (128 = 64 x 2). The next 64mm hole after 128mm is 192mm. You will already have a 192mm hole drilled because that will be the second hole you made on your first column of holes when using the 96mm spacing. The next 64mm hole after 192 is 256mm. Using the third 96mm hole you already drilled, which is at 288, just use the 32mm offset hole on the Parf Stick to go down the 256mm and make your 3mm drill hole. Once you have all of your 64mm drill holes where you want them to be, you then just bore out the 20mm dog holes using the other tools that come with the Parf MK2 Guide System. In short, the Parf system has the means of making holes that are 32mm, 48mm, 64mm, and/or 96mm (and any multiple of those amounts) away from any reference point on the table. You may find an easier way than what I've explained above. A way that causes less brain damage. But, I hope this makes sense and that it helps to get you started in the right direction. One thing I'd recommend is try to draw it out on paper and make sure you have all your starting points right where you want them to be. From there it should be all about just following the plan and trying not to get too twisted around with all the references and offsets.
I purchased the plans and appreciate the effort. I can not locate a T-Slot bit that matches the size you have listed in the plans, do you have a source?
@@TheSmartWoodshop Thanks I did not think it mattered by this is 5/8 and yours listed 9/16. Probably the difference in mm to inches converion. Thanks for the quick reply.
I like your designs a lot, but don't you ever get tired of saying Paulk Smart, I know I get tired of hearing it. I get you need to brand yourself and stuff, but come on. Your videos are more infomercial than informational.