I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great ru-vid.comUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
Fun game...take a shot every time Ron says ‘pattern’ and a double shot when he says ‘pattern-pattern’ 😂 Thanks for taking the time to produce this video. Going through 17 hours of video just sounds like....fun.
As a finish carpenter who also likes efficiency and systems, I used to get comments like "how come you don't have the trim done in any of the rooms yet". Cause I don't do room by room, I do the whole house, floor by floor... The next day all the rooms are done, because I measure it all, cut it all, and install it all. That shaves off days not hours.
Wow Ron, this is your masterpiece of design and execution! Had to laugh when you were explaining the way you distract yourself during the production phase of hole drilling. There are times I thought I’d lose my mind during this drudgery. The thing that kept me going was thinking about how efficient I was going to be with the finished product. Lastly, I hope your subscribers don’t miss the most important principle you teach, one that has made me subscriber for over seven years; systems, systems, systems. If I had a dollar for every hour people waste on jobs jumping back-and-forth, I’d be a millionaire.
i know exactly what you mean about being efficient and finishing out the details as you go. I'm a new construction trim carpenter and I used to move along quickly and get to the next piece or next room without finishing the small details such as sanding, fastening completely, etc. In the moment you feel like you're getting a lot done but at the end when you have to go get another tool, walk back to the work and finish, it really makes the job take a lot longer overall. Being efficient is much more important than being "fast" in this trade or any trade. Thanks for all the ideas you share. A lot of them are very impressive.
I bought Ron’s plans and had a shop digitize them right before Covid-19 hit. We cut out the Baltic birch parts on their $250k CNC router. I’m not a great woodworker, but it was easy to put together - like putting a 3D puzzle together. It came out nearly perfect. And I mean very close to perfect. There is only one small (1/32”) area that sticks out on one side. I could sand it down, but won’t. It’s that good. Thanks, Ron. I love it!
Hey Ron, just built the PSB and it’s incredible. I did want to mention that I don’t think the plans or your video mentions that you’ll need different screws for the sawhorses than what come with a normal door hinge. Normal hinge screws were a bit too long. Not a huge deal since it was just a quick run to the store but I figured I’d bring it up in case no one else has! Again this workbench is amazing!
I have been following your builds for a little while now. I almost purchased the compact plans, and am glad I held off. By nature I am cheap and have been working on creating my own from watching your videos and am surprised that you hadn't nested the sawhorse legs before now. I know I won't be following the plans perfectly, but it is definitely worth the price of a couple of good beers to support your work. (Ordering this afternoon.)
Been watching your channel since 2014 and this is the first time I have been the first viewer, pretty cool. Btw I love watching your videos keep them coming.
Great video as ever. Not my field and I’ll probably never build this bench, but I really appreciate the care that you put into it. Add to it that your plans are almost free makes me realize that you want everyone to be able to improve and that’s nothing short of AWESOME!
Really enjoyed watching all your content. I've learned alot along the way. Currently building a SCB/PTS2 combo and its turning out great! Thanks for all your hard work putting these videos together and giving us a snapshot into how your mind works.
Just wanted to say thanks for all the work you do making these systems and providing them for everyone. Long story short but I fell in love with woodworking and went all-in setting up a basement shop but had to bail on the escalation of commitment that was taking place (it's an old house and doing it to a level I felt comfortable with regards to dust just wasn't going to happen). I believe your systems and a track saw are going to let me set up outside with the same ease and functionality I was aiming for in the shop. So again, thank you, you've given my woodworking ambitions new life!
Bought your plans months ago but I'm finally ready to dive in and build my PSB. Can't wait. Your videos are great (ok, I might have to slow them down a bit for my skills) but super excited about building my bench.
I think the correct use of the parf system is to start in the middle and work outwards. That is to limit the opportunity for inconsistency over the length of the surface. At least that is what Petr Parfitt said when In one of his videos that I watched.
I am just building this for the first time - I have never used a bushing or patterns with my router before. You make it look so easy routing narrow pieces with your larger router. It is so easy to tip a little to the inside and gouge a piece or even take a bite out of the pattern. :-( Need more practice I guess.
Great Job RON It Don't Matter To Me If The Video Is 15 Minute Or Two Hours Long Is No Difference When I Go To The Movies And Sit And Enjoy The Show This Is The Same For Me Is Relaxes Me I Watch Your 46 min The Paulk Smart Station Video.Thank You RON P. Have A Great Day
Ron, I totally agree with BR. I long ago learned to cope with attention deficit disorder and can now easily tolerate most anything. In your case, I've never seen any video of yours I found to be tedious or boring, or even just "TMI." On the contrary, it's a pleasure and feels like time well spent with a friend. Longer videos are fine -- indeed, a pure delight.
@@WelshRabbit Haha! A fellow ADD sufferer! See my comment above/below which I posted today... I think you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about!! Best wishes to you oh Rabbit from Wales!
Just got my parf guide from the UK Axminster tools and premplus plywood from Windsor plywood in Nanaimo BC CANADA looking forward to getting this started thanks Ron
I was a general contractor building custom homes. In the kitchens we would but blocking around the room to allow for easy installation of upper and bottom cabinets. Little effort at the framing stage hours and strength at the finish stage. You understand
Purchased the plans (through TSO) and just finished my first build using the Parf jig. I'm pretty happy with it. Sadly, through a mistake I'm pretty sure was entirely my own, I somehow managed to get the frame slightly outta square in the process of gluing and screwing the frame pieces to the bottom sheet... so, I made the mistake of trying to force the opposite (top) side of the frame back into square, which resulted in the top having a bit of a crown in it. Now that the glue is set, I'm pretty sure there's no way to fix it, but the bottom does seem to be a bit flatter, so I think I may just drill out the bottom piece and flip it over. Still, I'm very impressed with the strength and the easiness of the build and excited to start using my new Paulk SmartBench.
I’ve been watching a lot of your videos and love your philosophy of completing things as you go. I’m still a bit at a loss of how one would use the bench once it is completed.. Do you have any videos on how you use your bench on a project?
Hi, Ron - When you get a moment, can you list out the type/size of bits you use throughout to make the various pattern cut-outs? I caught the 2 in. bit for the handle cut-out, but couldn't figure out the others. I'm going to need to invest in some new tools to build the bench, so a shopping list of bits to get would be helpful. Also, what degree chamfer bit are you using on the bench dog holes? Thanks for taking the time to pull the video together - it was fun to watch!
@@guyjackson864 Hey, Guy - thanks. Yeah, I caught that about the chamfer bit for the edges. I was mainly looking to determine what diameter forstner bit (or whatever other bit he may have used) to punch out the corners of the side and stretcher templates before connecting them on his table saw.
The Top has 20mm holes with a Forster bit. One version of this he used a flute bit for a plunge router. With a track saw track that would be easy to keep the rows straight. Also 3/4” is 19mm I’m sure that’s fine also I think that bit is more of a common size and could be a lot less……… the pattern cut out is a 1/4”top bearing patterning (laminate trimming) bit. Could also use a 3/8” or 1/2” those are a bit more rugged and only matters for the radius in the corners. Whichever one you want something decent to cut that much not a no name Amazon bit or the bearing is going to be gone after about 3 feet of cutting….. as the guys said in the other comments a 45deg chamfer bit to knock that edge off. Diablo, amana or whiteside spiral flute are the patterning bits I’ve always had luck with. The rest the bearing loosens up and flys across the room no matter what I’ve tried. Hope that helps I think he doesn’t explain every bit etc because in the description the plans are for sale for $10. Seems worth the 10 bucks if you’re looking to build one. He’s a very smart guy
Brilliant. A systematic procedure that fits my kind of needs. Being someone with Attention Deficit Disorder (Predominantly Inattentive), tedium is literally painful, but having a plan, a process, a system, a methodology, failsafe strategies and templates means I can be thinking about something else entirely (quantum physics, last night’s TV, some life problem, how to make better sandwiches, or even just repeating meaningless phrases, or ideas for songs, or some piece of music I heard last week on an internal mind loop, or adding up alternate, random, odd numbers until I reach a million), and thus not have to be thinking “oh my god this is soooo boring, it’s going to take years to finish, are we home yet, shall I go and clean the fridge, maybe I should eat eight bowls of ice cream to get me in the mood for the next drill hole, maybe I’ll take a nap and just burn down my workshop and be done with it, jeez my brain hurts with all this endless cutting, drilling, sawing, sanding... hi mum, how’s things? ...hey Bob, where can I find some lemmings to take for a walk down by the cliffs? ...jeepers, I’ve only been at this for forty minutes, I’ll do another forty minutes tomorrow and maybe get this done by next year. Or the next.” So, thank you!!!
I tried to make my own parf guides (expensive in NZ). It didn't work out perfectly lol. But with some extra work i managed to drill at least some of the holes accurately and square. Lessons: use aluminium rather than wood for the guides and practise using a drill press table with a fence and spacers to drill accurately spaced holes in your guides. I learned a lot from my mistakes. 😂
We would also spend an hour putting clear epoxy on the bottom edges and one inch up the side to prevent water damage would also do the entire interior of sink bases
I'm just an old hobbyist at home with the occasional odd thing to build. Nevertheless I'm gonna build two of these, one as table saw outfeed, and one for assembly and whatnot. That's just for the FL property, I'll need 2 more for the KY property, huge garage up there and currently no bench to work from.
Just FYI, if you make the templates from 1/2” (12mm) ply, the milescraft router bushing kit that’s linked in Ron’s store won’t work for 1/2” diameter spiral bits. The bushing neck is 5/8” long, so the router won’t sit flush on the pattern pattern. You’ll need a short neck bushing, which the smaller bushings in that kit are. An issue I ran into, just hoping it helps someone else during their build. Ending up going with a kit from Woodcraft.
Would you ever consider selling the templates on their own? Or a cnc file? I would love to utilize this, I know it will help my process. There’s a lot of time in making templates that I’m hoping to get around. Thanks!
We are considering a CNC file, but there is a lot to it to make sure the file is perfect. I need to have it cut and then assemble, then make corrections and have it cut again and then assembly. And again until it is error free. If I put up a file that had errors, I would never hear the end of it and even be asked to pay for wasted material and CNC time. It will come, but I haven't had the time. As soon as I do, you can bet I will make a video demonstrating the file, CNC cutting and assembly. Ron😎🤙
Hola Ron, hace años que te veo en videos, me gustaría cuando puedas que acerques la cámara para poder ver mejor como trabajar ya que es muy interesante tu trabajo. Gracias, un saludo.
Hello Ron, I understand you use a 3mm offset for the router bushing and bit, or approx 1/8" offset. You use a 1/2" bit with a 5/8" bushing for the majority of the template cutting, but what did you use for the small 9mm(6mm) strap slot? A 1/4" bit and 3/8" bushing would be too big. The only option I see is a 3/16" bit with a 5/16" bushing (Using the kit you have linked). Assuming the entire thing is made using metric bits. Otherwise I guess the slot could be cut to 3/8" for a 3/8" bushing to fit exactly and then just run the 1/4" bit a few times. I think I've answered my own question. Thank you for the bench plans Ron!
Maybe I am missing something, but neither the plans nor this video describe the router bit / bushing offset for use with the patterns. Edit: Figured it out... Math is hard! The router bushing offset is 1/8” (or 3mm). You still might want to add that info to the pattern page in the plans.
Hey Joshua! Glad you edited your comment. I just purchased the plans and I had the same question. Could you maybe specify this a little more. What bit (diameter) and what bushing do I have to use? I don't have a lot of expierience cutting with the router... 🤔 And what if I'd just used a pattern bit, the ones with the ball bearing. Everything would be 3mm smaller, but that would not really matter, isn't it?
Can't do that bro, the sides of your bench would end up with thin rails and stiles making it much much weaker. Things on the sawhorses won't line up either. Bushing is also safer, it gives you a little wiggle room if you tip the router some and you still won't cut into good material 😉
@@gibtsnocheinenfreien The distance between the outer edge of the bushing and the edge of the router bit needs to be 1/8" (~3mm) as @Joshua Jabbour says. That 1/8" (the gap + width of the bushing material) occurs twice on either side of the router bit, for a total of 1/4" that needs to be the difference between your router bit diameter and your bushing outer diameter (OD). TL;DR: Iff you want to stay exactly to the pattern spec: 1/4" router bit requires a bushing with an outer diameter of 1/2" 1/2" router bit requires a bushing with an outer diameter of 3/4"
I'd bet you could sell the pattern, plan or whatever it would take to communicate with customer CNC's, whether it be for fully automated CNC's, or the Shaper Origin hand held CNC! Couldn't that be another product to sell?
Do they plans describe the various tools/bits that are needed? I see you started with your large router and then moved to the compact. I don't own a router yet and I was planning on going with the large 3.5 as you've mentioned before. But it seems like the compact might be necessary as well. In your vlog you had a vacuum hose holder. Neat idea! You should make a specific mention about it.
Do you have more details (a video) on using the following three items: 1- Upcut Spiral Bit, 1/2-Inch Diameter by 4-Inch Length and the Upcut Spiral Bit, 2- 1/4-Inch Diameter by 2-1/2-Inch Length, 3- PORTER-CABLE Router Template Guides? I have not used a pattern bit before in my router.
Ron, for those without the Parf drilling system, what method would you recommend for the holes in the top? Any thoughts to making a few different videos detailing different methods? The MK2 is an amazing tool, but not practical for a lot of hobbyists looking at incorporating your Smart Bench. Thanks for your contributions!
David Viger I bought 3 each 3/4” drill guides to press into a piece of hardwood. Using the my drill press to drill 90° holes to assure straight true guide holes.
What is your method for laying out the pilot holes for the screws. I have not seen that in any of yout videos. By the way I'm in the process of building your benches for my local Habit for Humanity.
Dear Ron, You make it look easy! When you drill your first set of pinholes for the TSO system, how do you keep your holes perpendicular to the surface of the table? My concern is the offset created by a pilot hole that is not perpendicular from the front to the back of your material. Thank you, Todd.
I suspect that the answer is that they don't need to be perfectly perpendicular. The pinhole grid on the bottom won't be exact, but it's only used to drill shallow larger holes to prevent tearout when the accurate holes are drilled from the top side with the jig.
The first set of holes is not perpendicular but parallel. Which is done by measuring an exact distance from the edge - which is straight because cut with a straight edge (a Festool rail in this case). Then the second set is perpendicular because the rulers used are 8 x 96mm and 10 x 96mm long, and set at the 6th hole, which makes a 3-4-5 perfect square triangle. This is middle school geometry - applied in real life, pretty cool. It's the Pythagorean theorem. And the person who had the idea to package that into a system and sell it is Mr. Peter Parfitt, an English carpenter, it's called Parf system, and if you are in the US, you can indeed buy it at TSO, the importer of the system in the US. Search for Peter Parfitt and Parf system for more info, he has a couple videos in which he explains it all.
Экстремально вы храните вашу фанеру. Если всё это на кого-то упадёт, то ему мало не покажется. А так, как выработаете один, то это вдвойне экстремально.
although I purchased my first set of plans in 2016 I read in my recently purchased PSWB plans the use of a router, miter saw , 96 mm hole cutting jig for bench top etc. Do you have a list of preferred tools and model numbers before my starting the PSWB. I just purchased the new Festool cordless track saw but tools are first priority.
Ron - love the channel, and prepping to make the smart station. I'm a big fan of Woodpecker products. Have you tried the Woodpecker Hole Boring Jig? Would you consider it not as good/precise as the UJK?
Just wondering if anyone has any treatment ideas for the smart bench... i have to keep mine out on a (covered) decking area but it's semi-exposed to the elements. What would be best to treat it with?
Hi Ron, I find your Project very interesting and useful, I will build it though using the lamello joints. If you are interested I will send you photos and details. Greetings Michele
Ron, I notice the patterns in the plans are the same dimensions as the finished part. Are you no longer using a template guide bushing with your router setup? Could you clarify the process for using the patterns on page 8 of the plans?
@17.53 in the video you make the pattern #16 for the hinge holes, which is sized for a 28mm slot, but on the plans (pg 3) the hinge hole is 15mm, wondering if you can clarify? The bushing is not going to make up that big of a difference, or am I thinking of it wrong. Didn't want to make the hinge slots too big.
Ron, Please disregard my previous comment. Upon a closer comparison of the patterns and plans I now see the dimensions are different where it counts. Best regards..
As I noted in some of the other posts replies:: is to look for Baltic Birch [ 18 ] mm as the individual ply are actual Birch accumulative to 13 plies. In a nutshell, Baltic Birch plywood is made entirely from birch plies, with no softwood or filler plies in the center. The Baltic Birch will be a quality upgrade an enhance the longevity of the Saw Horse in general
I'm ready to order the plans - what router bit did you use for the 20V Dewalt router as I have the same and wonder about bit as well as bushing to trace patterns - sorry for questions as I'm a newbie and would love to try your plans for a great workbench
Hi Ron, Thanks for sharing your building video's. What I would like to know is what router bit you are using after the Parf Guide 20mm drill? Since you are using a router, what makes it easier. Please let me known the size of router bit you use.
Hey Patrick, take a look at more recent videos to see lots of info and demonstrations router use and tools. You will also see my use of Parf Guide MK II as the only accurate way to make the benches.😎🤙
You can do all that....Or, you can hit "print" on the CNC router, and be done.The hardest part will be throwing the 4x8 sheets into the table. The cuts will be precise to the MAX.
Thanks for replying. I ended up using a 1/2” spacer between the tops of horses when I secured the hinges and it seemed to work well. Great design. Everything lined up perfectly. Just waiting for my parf guides to add the top.
Okay I have the plans and have started making the patterns. Wish me luck. I have already have the plans for the original bench and the SCB and have built and use both of those. Just wondering, what do you use as a finish on the benches.
At around 13min, when you are drilling the 3mm holes with the parf guide, are you drilling through into your bench extenders? I dont see the sacrificial strips
This does not answer the question... Went to the video and all it says is the bushing set he uses not which bushing size... and also shares both 1/4" and 1/2" router bit... so the question stands.
The distance between the outer edge of the bushing and the edge of the router bit needs to be 1/8" (~3mm) as @Joshua Jabbour says. That 1/8" (the gap + width of the bushing material) occurs twice on either side of the router bit, for a total of 1/4" that needs to be the difference between your router bit diameter and your bushing outer diameter (OD). TL;DR: Iff you want to stay exactly to the pattern spec: 1/4" router bit requires a bushing with an outer diameter of 1/2" 1/2" router bit requires a bushing with an outer diameter of 3/4"
Hi Ron, What do you think about dust falling down to the undersurface shelf through the surface holes as it is a relatively limited access compartment. I would prefer storing my tools there in instead of putting back my tool cabin each time but dust is some kind of issue for the tools That vacuuming in each step is not very easy, at least I am not so well disciplined:)))
The holes are optional. You could only add the holes necessary for you. Ive seen other people expanding on the fixed shop version of this design with built in extraction
Does anyone know what plywood grades Ron targets for the face and back sides of the plywood he uses for these benches? A1? B2? C2? AC? Don't see it specified in plans, and haven't been able to find it in the videos. The Premcore Plus brochure from Canusa says it comes in B, C, and Paint grades.
What you need to look for is Baltic Birch [ 18 ] mm as the individual ply are actual Birch accumulative to 13 plies. In a nutshell, Baltic Birch plywood is made entirely from birch plies, with no softwood or filler plies in the center.
