A word of warning to everyone wanting to do the same: Do not use a miter saw designed to cut wood on the 80/20 extrusions. The RPM are too high risking bind up and serious kickback. Yes, it is possible to cut quite a few extrusions, but in the long run it's an accident waiting to happen. Instead use a miter saw with low RPM designed to cut metal and is preferably oil cooled. Unfortunately I am speaking from experience. Did not mean to take away from this awesome video, but add to it. Thanks for sharing your building process!
@@jonathanz2543 get a miter saw designed for cutting metal (low RPM + Oil cooled). If that's not an option, then be very careful and keep the blade cool, don't use a lot of pressure when cutting and let the blade cool down after each cut. I haven't tried it yet but you might have luck with spraying some oil onto your cut, however this might also become messy. Be very careful though! Good luck!
You need to ground all that aluminum to the chassis. You also need a thermal break so that the heat is not transferred onto the frame of what ever you are building. Installing a rubber washer between the 8020 and the plusnuts might be enough.
^^^^He's totally right. As terrible as this may sound, you need to break it thermally and that may require demounting it. I'd vote for mass loaded vinyl cut into strips 1.5" wide to line all 8020>Van runs of aluminum extrusion. Grounding will be way more straightforward assuming that most of this is interconnected throughout your van. I love the build and the ingenuity of the mild fabrication with bar stock and tapped holes. You have some awesome skills and attn to detail!
Everything is already Grounded to the Chassis / Body due to the fact he’s used Nuts / Bolts and Rivnuts - nothing else is required. Aluminium is a poor conductor of heat so there will be minimal issues with Heat Transfer.
@@gabefabian3400 Aluminum is a great thermal conductor (more thermally conductive than steel!) and needs to be grounded if you break the thermal bridge between the van structure/skin and the extrusion... and to be clear, you really should break it thermally. If you have exposed aluminum exposed to hot/vapor rich air (See cooking, breathing, showering, etc) you are going to get condensation which leads to moisture build up which leads to mold which leads to a van rebuild.
One of the greatest channels on van building IMHO. I wanted to ask you why you don't use a 1" 8020 frame instead of the 1.5" one. It is smaller so smaller footprint in a tiny space such as a van. Do you think it's not that sturdy?
This is gold! Been waiting for you to do this video, my second build is going to be all 80/20! Thank you for the knowledge and great informative videos!
I'm 53 , building out a van for my husband and myself as we are recent empty nesters. Thanks to you I am thoroughly enjoying the process!!! Showing your mistakes is beyond helpful, and you are skilled at producing an efficient but fun video! I appreciate your attention to detail and work ethic!!! I hope this finds you well !!
You seem like a giant who needs every inch of headroom, so this may not be feasible. But most materials are stronger in compression than tension. Basically, running a few bars to connect the tops of the driver and passenger sides would give you a TON of strength - you wouldn't just be pulling the passenger side cabinets from the wall, you'd be compressing the driver side cabinets into their wall. This level of strength probably isn't necessary for 99% of builds, but if you can spare the height, why not?
you need to look at wood working videos and follow what they do for a video. This is annoying to just watch you talking. I want to know what your vision is. How you cut and connect it. If there were any issues, how you overcame them. then what your finsih product is.
There are ways to reduce that cost though. 1) Look at a brand called tnutz. They sell aluminum extrusions that are the same dimensions as 8020 brand. Tnutz uses 6063-T6 aluminum alloy which is comparable to or slightly stronger than 8020's use of 6105-T5. Tnutz extrusions can be a bit cheaper than 8020. 2) Both 8020 and Tnutz have ebay stores where they sell discounted extrusions. These will not be cut to length, but they can be cheaper than buying directly from the manufacturer's website. I would recommend buying all of your extrusions this way. 3) 8020 has a load deflection calculator which will let you choose the extrusion type (i.e. the size), and describe how far apart the supports are. You can then input the amount of weight you will be placing on that extrusion and it will tell you how far it will deflect. Using this you will probably find that you can get away with smaller extrusions which are a lot cheaper (extrusion cost is pretty linear with the amount of aluminum in the product - smaller cross sections will drop in price significantly). For example: the extrusion Seven O Savage uses in this build is 1515. That extrusion can span 4 feet, have 250 pounds placed at the center, and only deflect .7mm. That is WAY overkill for most of the builds we would be doing. If you have shorter spans or lighter loads you can get away with much smaller extrusions. Their smallest extrusion is 2020, and that can span 2 feet, have a 250 pound load applied at the center, and still only deflect 1.4mm. But the cost difference is significant. 1515 is $0.53 per inch. 2020 is $0.16 per inch. You might need slightly more 2020 to provide enough supports, but that will not overcome a more than 3x price increase for the 1515. For example 40 feet of 1515 would cost $255. 40 feet of 2020 would cost $77 (and only $51 from tnutz - and even less on their ebay store). Don't over build. Use the deflection calculator and buy smaller, lighter, thinner, cheaper extrusions where you don't need to span long distances and carry extreme weights. 4) The roll in T-nuts that are recommended in this video cost anywhere from $1.20 per nut to $2.85 per nut depending on material. Economy nuts cost $0.16 per nut to $0.25 per nut depending on material. If you have 300 connections that is a difference of $360 best case scenario for the roll in nuts vs $48 for the economy nuts (best case scenario). Again, other vendors will probably be cheaper. 5) The angle connectors that are sold by both 8020 and tnutz are extremely expensive. You can also purchase 1/4" aluminum L brackets and make your own. Of course, the price difference is made up by your labor. You have to decide if that is worth it to you. But for example, a single 15 series angle bracket costs about $3.65. If you have, conservatively, 100 connectors in a build that is well over $360 you have invested. Alternatively you can purchase a 12 foot length of 6061-t6 aluminum L bracket for about $53. Cut up, that will give you about 90 - 95 angle brackets of equivalent size and strength. If you combine all of these techniques you should be able to get the cost down by a HUGE amount. Just a rough guess is that you could take what was shown here and cut the price down to 1/2 or even 1/3 as much cost and still maintain the same basic strength and have an almost identical design (with the added benefit of lighter weight). It will still be more expensive than wood, but the extra strength of the extrusions (especially in a crash) would make it worth it.
What happens when you have a rear end accident and one of those insanely strong 80/20 extrusions goes through your chest like a spear? I suppose such a thing could happen with wood. I do not think very many van interior builders consider even the affects of a soup can flying forward at 15 mph much less the fictitious event I have put forth. The one thing which I consider essential is some sort of barrier between the driver and objects which might find its way into the cab of the vehicle during an accident. Food for thought.
Given that the builder anticipates completely barrel rolling his van, your hypothetical rear end collision is fair comment! Its nice to see that someone else respects that during a vehicular collision or accident anything not securely fastened down instantly becomes airborne, and invariably heads towards the space occupied by the crew! When considering an interior fit out, great care should be taken to ensure that in the event of an accident, no supports, fittings, furniture or equipment will become forcibly propelled into the space occupied by the driver and passenger. A length or sheet of wood or metal propelled into the crew survival space can have horrific consequences, as can a microwave oven! Likewise, having heavy cast iron pans and kitchen knives hanging or magnetically held to the kitchen wall doesn't seem such a great idea if they strike the back of one's skull or shatter the windscreen sending glass fragments airborne at face height due to a collision forcefully dislodging and propelling them! Unfortunately, such instances are not at all uncommon and social media even has some videos of the aftermath of even slow speed collisions!
I got some push back from this and the person called me “ clueless.” I suppose my most concern would be rear end collisions where object such as horizontal long and stiff structures would be pushed forward and less from the front end sudden stop accidents which heavier objects break loose and come forward. I believe both of those situations deserve some attention when considering an interior build out. You may or may not be able to do all which needs to be done but all that you can, you should. I believe the least one can do is place a barricade of sorts which can protect the driver from objects which might travel forward. Heavier objects such as batteries should be well secured and perhaps caged and heavily bolted to the frame of the vehicle.
@@crawford323 I'm in complete agreement with you. I see many build outs which present real hazards to the front seat crew in the event of a front or rear impact! Unfortunately, people simply don't think of these things! I'd much rather people learn of these hazards by hearing about them rather than experiencing them as victims!
I hear what you are saying. This and fire would be my primary safety concerns, followed by theft. Anyways, I think putting a partition behind the driver cabin and back would possible alleviate and reduce the danger here. Most Chevy cargo vans come stock with a partition. One could even build a custom one with a little doorway. This adds a few things: privacy, safety, insulation, and security. I'm strongly considering this on my Chevy extended build. Additionally, I dont think I'll want ALL 80/20. But it should be utilized when desired
Some detail but this is important: when you join two horizontal extrusions with one vertical, you shall have the vertical up to the top and the others on the sides of the vertical bar instead of having one horizontal bar above and resting on the vertical one. Believe me I've been working with aluminum extrusions for decades ! The way I explain gives stronger structure and it's described this way in the specs. So the cutting for the batteries is smart but wrong, sorry... I know it's not obvious but check he specs... One free trick: add Nord-Lock washers where you're afraid of screw untightening, and you'll be safe for ages. For example the Humvee is assembled with these washers, some tramway wagons also. Just ask them for a free sample and do the test.
Hello, i'd be grateful if you can PM me on this or explain it better here, i'm a bit confused, i'll even paypal you some money for your advice, but i need to know better what you're talking about. i'm building a hanging bed that only comes across half my van with the other half housing my motorcycle and i'm think that i will have the horizontals that hold the frame on top of the verticals as the horizontals can't slide down then, but it seems like you say this is exactly how not to do it? Thanks in advance for your help!
@@seven_o_savage Hi, sorry for the long time reply. For the extrusions thing, no link, this is just my personnal +20 years of experience as mechanical engineer... If you are interressed in the washers, check this link : www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/technology/ It explains the idea behind the "wedge" system, and it's really effective. These washers are a bit pricy but it worth every $. If you need a (little) cheaper alternative, Heico make almost the same : www.heico-group.com/en/heico-lock/products/wedge-lock-washers/ Hope it will help
Hello friend, thanks for your video, but let me have a little suggestion: We don't have to be constantly looking at your face, we like your 4x4 Van better (which is fantastic and is very cool).
@@smarreel6071 the vast majority of the force in this application is shear stress in the vertical direction, not really pulling the rivnuts out. Most professional van builders have been using rivnuts with a lot of success, I can share some videos if you’re curious. Plus, rivnuts will hold up to 600 pounds pullout each. That’s more than enough. www.rivet-nut.com/assets/rivnut_mechanical_properties.pdf
This is an excellent video. Can you say more about how you plan to panel your walls and your ceiling around your 80/20 structures? Most builds I've seen have continuous walls and ceilings, like you did your floors. But that seems impossible with how the 80/20 structures attached directly to the van metal obstruct some of the wall and ceiling area. Thanks!
I used 8020 to build my camper van, too. Bought some off eBay, some on Amazon, and some from Grainger. For anyone who uses this stuff, recommend buying 8 ft lengths of 1.5 x 1.5 aluminum angle iron, and cut your own right angle connectors. Make a jig, and drill holes in these with a drill press. Also ... I tried the same method of cutting the extrusion with a radial arm saw, but I must of used the wrong type of blade. I got a LOT of aluminum “slag” that “smeared” the cut ends. Had to use a bandsaw instead. Two years later, 20,000 miles, and hundreds of nights, every joint is still super tight and the just like when it was installed. Expensive, and worth it.
@@R81-b1p Minor differences. Got some great bargains on eBay when purchasing lots of “end cuts” (left-overs from others’ major projects). You have to keep your eyes open.
Have you taken the van out in winter? Since you have direct contact with the exterior for the mounting, do you have any condensation on the skeleton? I'd love to see a thermal image of the outside in sub-freezing temps.
Let me have a look .. "tap drillbit set" .. www.banggood.com/search/tap-drill-bit-set.html?from=nav and I guess those are similar. Maybe have a look if your favorite drill maker is not making those as well ... so if you are not a fan of stuff made from chinesium cheesy steel, then how about DeWalt: www.dewalt.com/products/accessories/metal-and-wood-drill-bits/metal-drill-bits/tap-and-die/impact-ready-tap-and-drill-bits
Absolutely epic. I'm thinking about using smaller 80/20 for some parts in the van I'm planning, but in terms of weight-to-strength ratio you can't beat it!
I'm also curious about the smaller 8020 (mostly to ensure the largest possible drawers, shelves and generally make the most of the space) - how does it compare in strength? Do you reckon it can be build sufficiently strong as a basis of all the cabinets or even for a bed-construction?
@@thefuture986 cabinetry, yes, bed construction? maybe, but you'd have to be quite diligent with your triangles and reinforcement, and even then I'm not sure. but cabinets? absolutely
@@Evanrodge Seems about right intuitively. So I guess 1010 for cabinetry and 1515 for the bed (with a support beam in the middle?) might work? I'm an absolute noob at this stuff tbh.
@@thefuture986 If I'm right (maybe not) you have this info in the datasheet (obviously not on amazon, but if you ask the manufacturer...) So with a lenght and a load value, for each given size you can know the max stress and also the max deflexion... Don't forget you can mix sizes... Use 1 inch square for a pair of small vertical "legs" for example, and for a long beam between these legs, you can use a rectangle profile of 1 x 2 inches... This is the beauty of alu extrusions...
@@thefuture986 yep, 1515 is MORE than enough for a bed as long as you have at least one support beam and use the triangle reinforcers in the corners for stiffness. You'd need to have slats to support the mattress of course but yeah structurally that seems fine. And I say that because that's what I made my roof rack out of for my Element and put nearly 250lbs of stuff up there lol.
I think a better way to attach to wall is: 1- use the plus nuts to attach them to the factory holes, 2) attach 3/4" plywood firring strips to wall via the plus nuts 3) now you can just screw in the frame ANYWHERE to the firing strips. No holes in your van !
I really like your content and it is extremely helpful. I have a concern about the 80/20 frame being attached directly to the metal of the van. Will the outside van temp transfer in to the frame? Should there be a shim of temperature dampening material to prevent the transfer of temperature?
A lot of people worry about this and there have been plenty of heated debates on spintersource and the transit forum. Theoretically, yes thermal transfer via metal is way more efficient than through air. But in my transit the internal metal already has factory foam insulation from the outer skin where the inner and outer meet...for the most part. I also have insulation around a lot of the metal. Still, I use some PVC and butyl as a backup. Personally I don't think total isolation is needed if you are attaching to interior metal, but there could be some gain by some isolation. No matter what make sure your 80/20 is bonded to the chassis somehow so it's not electrically isolated.
Amazing video - nicely done. Can't wait to see how you face the 80/20 now! I just ordered my 80/20 for my van. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!
Typically 15 series is the better way to go unless you REALLY need the extra space in a few select areas where not much weight will be placed, mostly because the connections on 10 series are not as strong as the 15 series. OurKaravan has an article on 10 vs 15 and why he uses 15, but that's a major factor
Hi. Thanks for this advice. Very helpful. I'm starting in the journey of building my own van. Once I choose the van I will be employing some of you ideas into my van. I'm in the UK and just wished we could get half the stuff you can at a similar price. Anyhow, thank you and I will continue to utilise your videos.
Same concerns as others. Would use 80/20 only for stationery purposes. Too concerned that to would rattle loose over time. Working with an aluminum metal fabricator can actually be less expensive and more sturdy, but your design has to be spot on.
Thanks for the video. Its really helped me with my build so far. I'm using 8020 for the first time and one thing that is concerning is just how much it conducts heat/cold. I left some pieces of 10 series in the van when it was 95f and they were super hot to the touch when I got back. Its definitely something to account for. I really think you have to do an AC if you do 8020 that's how much I think it conducts heat. I'm using vinyl to help prevent the heat transfer. Also, the 10 series is plenty strong I think. I ordered all 10 series as its considerably cheaper than the 15. I think its perfect for the kitchen galley and cabinets as it maximizes drawer space and then I'd probably do 15 series in the bed area as the 10 is fine but 15 would be sturdier. It's so much nicer/fun to work with than ply which I've used in my previous vans. I'm doing a really similar layout to yours except mines a 144wb. Do you like the white panels?I'm thinking of doing white laminate panels, to help brighten up the space and there easy to clean.
This is one of those questions that if you ask it you cant afford it. I spent 15 years off shore on a research vessel and we used 80/20 for the installation of most of our instruments and lab fixture installation. Of course this was government funded is the only way anyone could afford this stuff. Now that I am retired there is no way I can think of using this method. Wood is expensive enough. Other than what he offers as layout ideas, using this method is out of reach for the average person.Expense is the least of your worries. One of the things you need to consider is those screws holding this together will not hold in the event of an accident. Basically this is a friction hold with typically M5 or less screws. The screws will shear in a major accident leaving the extrusions to fly around. I look at this method of building with great fear when envisoning the forces which would be imparted with an impact either from the rear or the front any speeds above 30 mph.
@@crawford323 for 1.5” 80/20, it’s a 5/16” carriage bolt , closer to M8 metric. I agree this stuff is expensive. In a serious accident, its not going to be pretty either way. Death by splintering wood , or death by extruded aluminum impalement. It’s like trying to decide if you want to chop off your left leg or your right leg.
Steven, your videos are genuinely educational with a level of detail most others miss. Many thanks for putting these together. Your channel is my go to place for my van project.
@@peterdods425 it's just to complete an electrical circuit if there was ever a situation where something were to short out. With vans taking a bit of a beating something could shake loose over time. If that something is a wire that's supposed to be supplying power, say to an induction cooktop, and it ends up supplying all that power to your galley frame, you're gonna have a bad time if it isn't grounded to the chasis. Everything has to return to the negative terminal on the car battery, the chasis of that van is connected to it. So connecting all that aluminium to the chasis of the van (make sure you use a big enough cable to handle the potential in the batteries) in effect connects it to the car battery.
@@preluded try ACF50 or corrosion x you can get it from aircraft spruce’s website. Use in a well ventilated area & follow ppe requirements! www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/corrosion.html
really informative! Thanks!! I've been living in Sketch-up, so i know what you mean about thinking in the tool kit!! killer question... do you have to know where all those carriage bolts need to go before you captivate the ends?
@@paullehto1823 Thanks Paul :) i need to get more savvy on all these parts! even what specifically Anchor and End Fasteners are.. as i'm still a noob and think in L-Brackets and Slidey Nuts! :0) Thanks again :)
I’m not sure I understand the carriage bolt attachment.. do you drill a hole through the 8020 and mount the carriage bolt facing the sheet metal? Or do you slide it into the back side of the 8020 facing the sheet metal? And then do you put a rivnut In the sheet metal? Or something else?
I was considering using the 8020 for my van build and I had so much questions... untill now. I think you gave me an answer to almost everything I needed to know to convince myself! Your video came right on time for me ;) Thanks man and good luck with your project!
They should sell 80/20 at the hardware store... most people don't even know this stuff exists. I'm thinking about making a DIY truck camper out of 80/20. Your build is looking great man, keep it up...
My wife, “Why have you ordered an adult erector set” Me, “Don’t worry it’s just a replacement for wood.” Wife, “that doesn’t make me feel any better, what have you been spending our money on??”
Seven O Savage, as others may have eluded to, what is your opinion on use of 1" size 80/20 instead? If it becomes only 75% as strong as 1.5", it should still be sufficient, and cheaper too, right?
15 series is far stronger than 10 series (not sure the exact % but much more than 25%). I also like the simplicity of using the same profile throughout and building each side as 1 cabinet. Also with 15 series you can use 5/16 bolts (as opposed to 1/4 in 10 series) which are 60% stronger... I did heavily consider 10 series though, it’s still a great option.
I'm sorry I'm late to the party, but you revealed your true plan in the last few minutes. You've built a mobile jungle gym you can use in complete privacy, thereby avoiding the judgemental gazes of other adults. 🙂 (Just kidding, brilliant work).
I gotta see a 6-12 month update after it’s been on the road. It’s hard to believe none of those bolts rattled loose. The bolts holding my bed come loose just from getting in and out. Granted it’s not 80/20 but still pretty solid
A very helpful video. Simple to follow and correct instructions. No BS. However, I noticed that there was no insulation between the van body and the aluminium cabinets. That does not appear correct.
Approximately how much do all of the 80/20 materials needed to assemble the system you have in this build cost? Especially in today's dollars (2023), I assume prices have doubled or close to it since this video was recorded 2.5 years ago?
Please please please please can I buy your plants. I'm looking at the exact same model van and I think your design is absolutely phenomenal. Obviously I'll need to make the adjustment for the hallway.
Do you have any regrets using the 8020 for you build? Did you have the 2020 fasteners come loose after some time actually using the van? Did you have many rattles and squeaks from it? Trying to get a feel for this before I commit to using 8020. it seems like the best way to go, but wondering the long term cons of it.
Forgive me for asking before I watch the entire video. Would somebody please tell me how you connect 8020 to a two-by-four or some other piece of wood. I've decided to use a galvanized drain pan 4 shower pan. And I was hoping to make it multi-purpose similar to how people make it into a cabinet seat well I need that seat to be able to go up and down so that my dog has a place to look out the window when we travel and then I'll remove that platform to put on the bottom of the floor of the van as her bed. I thought using the 80/20 on the corners with two pieces vertically side-by-side connected so that I could raise the platform up and down and ultimately if I wanted to put a piece of wood on it to extend out what's going to be next to the sink. All the hardware I have seen is to connect 8022 other 8020. How do you connect 8022 wood and the wood frame and Foundation that I will build for the shower pan. I even looked at the 80/20 RU-vid channel but all I can find is connecting 8022 other 80/20 in lots of different ways. Any and all help would be much appreciated
When people say they build using 8020, do they literally mean they use the brand 8020, or do you not have other brands in the US? I found like five different manufacturers of exactly the same kind of aluminium extrusion, the prices being about one fourth or one fifth of the 8020 brand...
that thing isn't going anywhere with all those mounting points! you probably could have gotten away with only 30% of the mounting points you used, but overkill doesn't hurt and does provide peace of mind
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath Thanks for your input! The only thing I have come across on why the 1.5 over the 1.0 is the strength/variety of fasteners. I’m not building for the zombie apocalypse. I also don’t have sponsorships and advertising. I like the idea of strong, square, and to a degree modular. I have a hard time not using my Sprinter for cargo, even though it is purely personal, not hired. So this stuff has an appeal to me. But the pockets aren’t deep. Fortunately, planning and researching is free. Again, thanks for your comment!
Is a certain saw blade required to cut the 80/20? I'm not understanding how you will apply walls and sides to the cabinets, hope to see more videos when you get to it.
This is the one I bought on Amazon, it made amazing cuts, almost as good as factory cuts. TWIN-TOWN 12-Inch 96 Tooth TCG Aluminum and Non-Ferrous Metal Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU7V346/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_fabc_6nq9FbYGWXP7Q
I wonder if you could 3 d scan the interior of the desired vehicle with a phone with LIDAR camera , then import the dimensions into Cad software, then design the cabinetry within the scanned area ? I don't know if the phone camera LIDAR are good enough though
okay so,i am 5'7 (175cm) and i amù looking for a van that is not overkill,maybe a van that is less than 2 meters of height where i can still stand up in it,any ideas ?
It is lighter and stronger than a wooden structure. But the best part is that it is very easy to change the setup. It just takes some nuts and tools. I have been using a similar setup in my 4x4 for a couple of years now and being able to add and change things on the fly is really helpful.
I want to screw down to the rear side metal sheet for bed frame, I am not planning to make a whole square style. do you think it is good enough to screw riv nuts down the bar on both side and just connect 3 across? for the side which one is that?
Where your getting this section I have few projects i need products for different items as well as heavy duty work purposes is there any marketing executive in india Hyderabad?
The inside of a van is not a controlled environment given that every time you open a door the outside atmosphere enters. Given that, how are you accounting for the corrosion of the steel-aluminum dissimilar metal corrosion potential?
80/20 no no no no no ... most people cannot afford this luxury and also other issues one will run into... but good in terms of fire... slim strut can do the same and cost A LOT less!
is this the original flooring, or you added that? is it easier to add the 80/20 structures when the floor is still bare metal? (i guess easier to drill, you can see what you drill trough, etc) or maybe its better to add them after the floor is installed?
Ignore me if it's annoying but your young and strong. Batteries giving off toxuc fumes even not running.....it's not safe to be sleeping and breathing it in If you could seal it off so its outside etc
As always, really enjoyable vid ! Couple of Thoughts: Misumi has probably the broadest selection of 80/20 type materials and related components. DrillHog makes REALLY Great Cobalt Stepdrill bits 👍🏼 If you make a mark (typically an ‘x’ or >) to mark which side of your cut line that the blade goes on, you avoid the possibility of coming up ‘short’ on (Intended) length. The hole for PlusNut was a bit big, better to have JUST enough dimension to tightly insert retainer (PlusNut). Countersink stainless machine bolts save even more (space) in to L brackets than Buttonhead. Nothing WRONG with your methods, just perhaps Viewers might benefit from suggestions. Great Job ! Love your vids. You deserve every bit of your monetization ☺️
How are all those T nuts and bolts for the 80/20 going to stay put with vibrations? Are they Nyloc or have you used something like loctite threadlocker? I guess you're a bit far in with the project for me to ask this question ;)
I could be wrong but I believe your not supposed to lay down those water filters after using them or at least the ones I use say not to lay them down. Maybe yours are different.
