Your concept is good, but the video cuts off prematurely and you do not explain the complete circuit to bypass the neutral safety switch. All one needs to do is run a hot wire to the solenoid on starter through a switch mounted in dash. I usually take it from the positive battery post. Any switch will work even if its not spring loaded like the push button you showed; then you manually move the switch to off after car starts.Please be aware that car will start in any gear, drive, reverse etc. If you explained this perhaps the 291 thumbs down might go to thumbs up.
Ok, let me make sure this is correct, I would definitely use a spring loaded switch just to be safe. But after it’s all hooked up do I just turn the key and press the button?
Oh thanks man, I was trying to figure that out, couldn't decide if the other end went directly to the nss or to the S wire It made more sense to wire to the S wire mainly because if my nss needs to be BYPASSED then why would I wire to that If I'm bypassing it altogether? Definitely helped me out tho! Took the guess work out otherwise I would've just tried the S wire and crossed my fingers I don't fry my ecu trying to start up lol
Thanks Mr. Bruce. I saw the same problem. I've worked on cars all my life and I figured that was how to complete the circuit but I just wanted to confirm it. Thanks again.
maybe you should show how you bypassed the nss, since this is what the video is suppose to be about..running a wire to a push button dont solve the task of bypassing the nss..
What the fuck? You installed a hot wire, from the alternator, like a temporary light string for a nighttime backyard BBQ, through the firewall to connect to a push button switch on the dashboard. Great! Now, tell me what you wired the switch to, in order to interrupt/provide current to, or explain what the fuck the magic push button costs that mysteriously bypasses other switches, and how I can obtain information on how to program the magic switch to obey only my wishes. Thanks, Goober.
Very simple, run a constant hot wire from the battery or fuse box whichever to the momentary toggle or push button switch mounted in the cab. The other lead from the switch goes to the starter solenoid little post with the starter wire on it. Mount the wire on that small post with a eyelet crimped on the wire and a nut the same size as the one on there or use the current one holding the existing wire. When you turn the key to the on position, hit the button to crank the starter and walla it will run. Keep in mind it will start in any gear so make sure it's in park, neutral or the clutch is depressed before cranking it up. DAlso don't forget a 30 amp fuse from the battery to the switch and use at least 12ga wire.
Great stuff now I know how to install a push button to the hot on my alternator.... Hey, wait, ....... MarkMannM2 Suggestion for RU-vidrs, start at the problem, work the problem, not the peripherals, In other words, show the starter point that needs power and simply explain, now we need to get a good 12v + to this point with considerable CURRENT (AMPS 15 - n20 or so) -or- at the starter relay, not sure if the neutral safety cut off is pre or post relay, so hence this how-to video served no purpose....
Yes the video on running a hot to a button not saying if there's a ground or were the button even goes just hey here's a wire from alternator to a button have a nice day
You state how important the inline FUSE is (for safety) as you simultaneously BYPASS another MAJOR SAFETY DEVICE! Remove this video before someone is hurt or killed!
I have a Ford 1986 7.5L 460 (Carberated) and The Neutral Safety Switch wire fried on it. It has a yellow wire, a green wire, and a larger red and blue wire going into a piece of plastic about an inch long and then exiting the other side is ONE wire that went to the starter solenoid. The single wire that went to the starter solenoid melted after smoking up a storm. I contacted Ford parts dept. and they stated the harness isn't even made anymore and they couldn't help me. So Im not sure what to do from here. I thought maybe I could just bypass the NSS and fix the problem that way. Im not an electrical genius so any help you could give on this would be really helpful.
I had an old car i did this to, whatever you do, dont accidently start in reverse or drive , because it will strip out the clutches in the trans as did mine
All that goober engineering. Instead of just fixing the issue. These are the half assed backyard repairs that people cringe about when buying used cars.
My dad has a Dodge truck that's in the shop right now they can't figure out what's wrong with it it starts only in neutral when it's cold they replaced a fuel pump and still does the same thing
Go here for the complete instructions on bypassing the switch as he mentions in the first 30 seconds of this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PlQruYHWHV4.html - Start at 4:40 mark.
save yourself some headaches & run longer wire, tuck it along the fenderwell or firewall. Anytime you have to get at the valve covers that wire is going to be in your way
I enjoyed the video. I have some questions though. I understand running a power from the alternator to the push button switch and then the switch to ground, but where to I attach the switch? Do I need to splice it into the hot on the ignition switch?
Ok now but where is the safety neutral switch location you didn't say that I do get run a hot power wire with a fuse but it just can't go to the push button we all need to know that especially me since the only way I can start my 93 is if I tap the wire to the positive battery cable to send power to the soliniod but I want to know where the factory safety neutral switch is located? Thanks! X
Question for anyone on the thread. I purchased a 2010 Chevy Express 1500 used and the previous owner had installed an older transmission than the OEM, and the vehicle does not have a neutral safety switch or the wiring that I can locate. They have the same setup you describe in your video only ran from the fuse box. The problem is that the vehicle does not show in park, reverse, neutral, or drive. The vehicle runs and drives but does not allow the use of the relearn features because the vehicle system does not know its in park. Is there a workaround for this to make the vehicle show in park? Any help and instructions are appreciated.
Does this work? My 92 k1500 switch is going out and only works when it wants to. I keep poking the starter with a piece of metal when the key is turned on.
Great video but too short,I have a problem with my 93..your idea just linked to my idea..i keep jumping the the starter to the battery..and now your video answer my question "HOW TO BY PASS THE NUETRAL SAFETY SWITCH" thanks !!
This guy looks like a car mechanic and look oil everywhere. I bet he knows nothing about car and that the reason why he stopped the video in the middle of his problem.
@@RANS87IROCZ That would be appreciated and much watched. A friend of mine, former Marine mechanic, came over and when we hooked remote starter switch to the solenoid it started. Tears of joy TRIED to run but I caught em. I thot we were thru. It's a bucket truck just to use on our place so I was just gonna leave the remote starter hooked up. A Marine can't handle that and wanted to do it right. So I say "ok, how bout a starter button in the dash. That was kinda ok. All the wires on the neutral safety switch were broken or brittle and the button start was fine with me. While it was running I pulled it back on the concrete but it was bout 96 with heat index over 100. I jacked it up as much as I could, 3500hd turbo diesel, but we're lying on the ground and he's more beat up than me. Neway when he hooked the wire to the solenoid he forgot about the switch/ push button and ran it to the battery. Of course the starter wudn't stop startin. Wire wudn't pull loose. By the time we got both batteries undone I gues the solenoid is stuck. Now if you hook up a battery it starts starting. I cudn't make him see what happened. So 30minutes turned into 5hrs. I got so hot I got sick and throwing up. Plus, coming off spinal fusion surgery couldn't walk the next day. BTW: Never found the two purple wires, one solid, one with white stripe to hook together to bypass neutral safety switch. Up under my dash has bout 500 wires. So now I have the starter out to see if it's just the solenoid we damaged. Gd luck with ya'll's vehicles. I need to do a video on all the little glitches and quirks older bucket trucks have to keep em operating. Simple but aggravating. The diesel is a 2000. Have '98 Chevy 3500hd, 7.4L we're gonna sell. Bout 100k miles, 6 new tires and simulators. Needs a damn fuel pump, maybe. Or find the magic glitch. Duralyft 39' bucket. L8r.
@@TheAcceleratorMagazine wow that's crazy, yeah you need a toggle switch to shut it back off, crazy it kept feeding starter 12 volts and yet it started truck it would not stop trying, man be horrible if it chewed teeth on the flywheel on such continuous start. man sorry to hear you guys went through a battle there I'm here cooking all week also just nasty hot weather last 2 weeks. But yeah I have 03 model current at work wires also broke away from switch but we ordered new pig tail so I might not be able to do vid tomorrow plus few years off could be a tad different or the same set up still, but I will eventually do one and share being I see none uploaded. Give me a power probe and I'm sure I can easily find a back yard fix for this issue I love finding alternative repairs so if shop slow I might be able to figure out tomorrow at work hopefully and upload something on it
@@RANS87IROCZ Forgot I posted this BUT the starter is fried. A place that advertises with us rebuilds em so wife dropped it off today, Friday July 31. O'Reilly's had rebuilt for $135 or allegedly new for $160 but these guys are good and I'll know exactly what I get. Bought two 20T bottle jacks and pair of 16,000lb ramps so I got it up high enough to slide the ramps under the front tires. Maybe it will at least be easier to put starter back on. Gonna try to run wiring for starter button before we put starter on. Been thinkin bout the dang '98 gas burner bucket truck and wondering if I can cut a "door" in the service bed over the fuel pump to keep from havin to drop the fuel tank. Got a nightmare goin on. A shop we've been usin for 20 years lied to us about dropping the tank, twice, to put new fuel pump in. Said first one was bad. It went there for busted fuel line and I told them if they had to drop the tank to just put in new pump with new sending unit so fuel gauge and then rear tank would function. Reckon the main mechanic, thot was a good friend, faked it just to get paid for a fuel pump. Afraid he has a big problem. Well, he has a problem now cause we have now checked everything worked on and they owe us bout $20,000 in fake work and parts. We have many vehicles. Yeah, I'm the stupid one for believing and not checking every nut and bolt. Ain't the first time. Neway thanks for reply and think some positive thots this way on diesel bucket truck. Bout $7500, as it sits, will buy the '98 Chevy 3500hd 6.5l bucket truck. 6 new tires and simulators. 150k miles. Interior in great shape. Duralift 39' bucket. Works great, when it's running. Just needs fuel pump and new home. L8r.
@@RANS87IROCZ Hey ya'll, checked out your channel and subbed. Looks like we have common interests in rides. Didn't see where ya'll were located. We're near Chattanooga, well, west of it where I-24 crosses the Tennessee River. If you click on the little channel icon it will take you to this backup channel. Can't long in to my first channel, not lot of content but a few vids. The icon pic is the view from driver's seat of our Pro Street 1964 Corvette. That blower is sittin on a BBC. And yep, car is pink. Didn't pick the color it was pink when we got it nearly 25 years ago and paint was too good to waste. Still is. Car had been drag car all over the south since the 60's. Dude that put it back on the Street musta used magic. Someone had cut a "trunk" lid into rear for fuel cell. Paint is close to 30yrs old, I guess, and no cracks or seems are separating have shown up even where that trunk lid was. Haven't treated it easy. 1300hp puts a lot of torque twist on the fiberglass and it has stood up a few times. No wheelie bars. We put nearly 20k miles on it, 15k with the blower. Wuda been more but I killed the engine in 2006, in the garage. Was goin thru brain tumor nightmare and just lost interest in cars, bikes, everything mostly. Was gonna crank it for a little kid to hear and was cranking on weak fuel, weak battery and fouled plugs. Hadn't been started in month or 3. Wasn't thinking and kept cranking on it and pattin the gas. Bad move. It had always fired right up. Finally number 8 cylinder got tired of that and lit. Kicked #8 rod out the side of the oil pan, broke the cam, etc. Saved the block. Only driven it once since rebuild. Be like a new ride when I finish within up new mini gear drive starter. If dont fry it too. Wife has '67 Tri-Power black coupe. Only 32 black Tri-Power coupes built. She's got a couple newer Corvettes, a '66 Mustang convertible, a Prowler we bought at police auction and some other drivers and projects. More pics on FB by same name. Youngest son Zane paints on TV show "Texas Metal" and has his own shop near here. Can't get him to fix my stuff. Kids. Ya'll take care and keep roddin and rollin. L8r.
I've done this before constant 12 volt to one side of the switch the run a wire from starter selinoid the other side of the switch which means u r bypassing the key switch and safety switch but make sure u r key is turned or your vehicle will not actually fire up. A good quick fix to get u by till u actually have time to fix the real problem.
